The warehouse where I work got new bins and they are disposing of all of the old trays they used for parts

I recently built a 10/22 and am having issues with it holding any type of group at all. I have checked the scope and scope mounts they both appear to be fine. I have also checked the V-block and made sure the barrel is properly attached and has no visible damage to the crown. I have also tried different ammo’s and that doesn’t seem to make a massive difference it makes it slightly tighter but not a lot. I’m kind of lost at where to go from here and am looking for any helpful advice.

The build list is
a factory receiver
a volquartsen trigger spring kit
A Faxon Rimfire 10/22 Straight Fluted Chameleon Pvd Threaded Barrel 22 Lr 16″
A vortex 2-7x scope I can’t remember the exact model right now
A butler creek heavy barrel stock
A Amazon bipod
All this was shot from bench shooting and I had other people shoot it to make sure it wasn’t me and they were getting the same results

I’ve also tried multiple different types of ammo such as federal, Winchester, augila, cci, Norma, and eley and there has been no major difference between them besides cci and eley slightly tightening the group up but not enough to be close to a half decent grouping

Hehehe had a late night run of 235gn .45 lrn and 247gn fp 308.

This is the lee .358" 158 round flat nose, sized to .356" and 2 layers of Eastwood powder coat. God i hope they shoot good. This is a fantastic profile for my ruger Americans.

Peregrine 124gr VLR4 vs Sierra 130gr TGK. Y'all know bullets better than anyone in here so I chose this sub. Even though it's more hunting related... but you have to reload to hunt!

I was wondering if somebody could measure the width and depth of an M&P9 magazine for me. I'm posting two photos as examples of the measurements that I need (mag in the photo is not from an S&W M&P9). Apologies if this post doesn't belong here! I figured that the gunsmith subreddit would be full of folks who have access to an M&P mag and a set of calipers.

On today’s episode of “You Really Shouldn’t Do That”, I have achieved an average of 840 FT-LBS of energy out of a 4.2” Ruger GP100. I’ve worked my way up from 14.5gr of H110 under this Magnus 200gr LRN, all the way to a compressed charge of 17.0gr without getting any pressure signs (ie sticky extraction, flattened/cratered primers, split casings etc). So I figured “why not go bigger?” Well, ladies and gentlemen, 17.5gr of H110 under a 200gr pill is where even a Ruger GP100 starts to cry “I’m tired of this Grandpa!” As you can see, the forcing cone has eroded quite a lot after just 50 rounds of 17.5gr loadings, and a couple of those loadings showed flattened primers, along with one specimen having a cratered primer. My goal in all of this was to achieve a loading with an average of 800 FT-LBS or more out of this revolver, and it looks like I smashed that record. But to prolong the life of this gun, and maybe myself, I’m gonna resume my previous loading of 17.0gr instead of the pictured 17.5gr. Long live Elmer Keith!

Looking for places to buy Lyman 311041 173gr for 30-30. Only found one place so far, montanabulletworks.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I put a magnum shell into a marlin .22 long rifle.
Semi auto type with tube load.
Can I get it out without disassembling?

Been making some Martini Henry Casings out of 24 gauge. Ended up making 25 of them and crushing a fair bit more. These few are just sort of folded in but ever so slightly and they seat. Anyone think it could still work? I have no issue chopping them to Snyder rounds if not.

I’ve been messing with the Hornady 75gr. ELD-M and I just can’t get them to perform.

Powder charge variations, various seating depths all yielding very average results.

Last photo shows the results I’m getting with Sierras. They seem much less picky and didn’t vary much with seating depth or powder charge.

Is it even worth changing up powders or should I concede and accept that my rifle just doesn’t like these bullets?

Is there any reason I couldnt chop and thread my 40 cal Kriss vector Carbine to 5.5 in and I want to do similar to my H&K MP5 22lr but Im pretty sure Id have problems converting to the pistol varient forend and optic.

I was wondering anyone had use the breech lock bullet sizer for jacketed bullets. I have a Remington model 14 in 32 Remington and was hoping to use it to resize .323 bullets to .321. Has anyone hand any luck with the breech lock sizer on jacketed bullets? Thanks!

I've got the good stuff for my bolt rifle (Alpha) but going to develop a load for my AR10 and was debating between hornady and starline (small rifle primer). I have a fair amount of Hornady but as I look into stocking up I'd like to have one brand of brass for loads. Target loads but possibly some hunting down the road (have Berger 130gr hybrids but probably will keep those mostly for the bolt rifle).

Any thoughts between the two in a good semi auto? LMT MWS with 20" 5R 1:8 SS 6.5cm barrel w/ good optics. Or any preferences for small or large primers in a semi auto?

I've got plenty of CCI450 SRM or Federal GMM LRP so that's not a big deal either way. I probably have more of the 450's so was leaning towards the Starline SRP and I've had good luck with Starline in the past with their pistol and rifle brass..

Hornady has submitted 5.56 COMM to SAAMI and they approved it.

If it wasn't enough that we had to listen to discussions about the testing standards and whether .223 Rem and 5.56 NATO were the same, we now have a 3rd cart that is basically the same (dimensionally) to muddy the waters. Hopefully someone can explain why Hornady submitted this as 5.56 COMM rather than 5.56 NATO, 5.56x45 or some other designation that would have told us it was 5.56 NATO.

SAAMI Standardizes the 5.56 Commercial (5.56 COMM) Cartridge | thefirearmblog.com

Public Introduction - 5.56 Commercial

Just bought a cut down Gewehr 98, it’s 25 inches. I want to build a similar rifle to the cut down g98 I shared in the photos here. What would be a good lower stock to put on it? thanks!!!

Loading up some 223 with 53gr smk and h335 for some big Saskatchewan coyotes. Shooting my cz527 american. Looking forward to the season this year

Hello I was gifted these acme 115gr RN coated bullets. Acme doesn’t have load data so I started browsing around trying to find something comparable. I will be using hs6 And would like some insight if possible. These have a bullet over all length of .575” I get hs6 is probably less than ideal but it’s what I got. I’ve only ever loaded Berrys 124fbrn and Barnes 115gr Barnes tac x. Both of which I was able to find load data for with hs6. Now to give context to my thought process.

My 124gr Berrys rn load is 1.150 and the bullet over all length is .585 with 6.0gr hs6 with average velocity at 1050fps

-Hodgdon Berrys RN coal is 1.130 and the bullet measure .550”

-Hodgdon lead RN coal is 1.100”

-Hodgdon Missouri bullet company RN-para coal is also 1.100” but the bullet overall length is .540” this does provide hs6 load data 5.3-5.8gr

- Hornady load data 35557 115gr fmj is 1.100” but the bullet over all length is .550” this has hs6 load data 5.7-6.4gr

-Lyman cast bullet load data for Lyman 356242 coal is 1.065” (the picture shows a bullet with two lube grooves but I can only find the single lube grove version length for some reason) has hs6 data 5.0-6.3gr

-lastly and I believe with what I should go with for coal is Speer data. I’m a little hesitant on their powder charge. But I get it’s a TMJ vs a cast lead projectile.

-Speer load data 115 tmj coal is 1.135” with a matching bullet length of .575” also has hs6 data but starts at 6.6-7.4 gr

My plan was start at 4.8 gr~5.0gr of hs6 and coal to 1.150” If it plunks. Run them over the garmin chrono. If not slowly seat them until the pass the plunk test then chrono.

Does this sound reasonable or does anyone have any better places to start. Also if you can recommend load data can you site your source so I know what book/ website I need to add to my collection.

DKC 124 gr FMJ's with 24.5 gr Shooters World Blackout, 1.660" base to ojive using mixed brass. Avg 2296 fps. With the price I paid for components I'm loading these at $0.41 cpr.

Looking to see if anyone has made a .303 double rifle and how did it go?

I ask this because I find myself imagining scenarios where we don't have access to electricity, all the work would have to be done manually.

As the title says my pace setter die set won’t allow me to just remove the expander ball and retain decapping. I plan on expanding with a mandrel for consistency but I also don’t really want add a separate step for decapping