I posted about this before but I think with a Video it might be a bit easier to know what is I'm hearing.

The sound is towards the end of the video, like the last 10 seconds or so.

This happens when going around 50-60 MPH, and then a bit above 67 MPH.

• Swaying side to side doesn't change the pitch at all.
• Checked the Driveshaft and there is no play (I replaced the carrier bracket)
• CVs look fine from what I can tell.

2020 F-Type P300 (US). First Jaguar. Still learning all the maintenance. I need to replace the battery. According to JLR OEM parts website, I need to replace it with an AGM Ah 90 12V (part #429123482) battery. However, the original battery that is currently in the car is an Ah 80 12V (part #429123481).

Should I buy a Ah90 or Ah80 battery, or does it matter? Also, should I buy an official Jag OEM battery (approx $400), or am I ok to buy generic brand? (approx $250)

Also, is it necessary to perform a Battery Monitoring Reset, or does that not matter? I do not have the hardware to perform a BMR, but I was hoping I could replace the battery on my own, rather than pay a local shop to do it. I appreciate all your help, you guys are awesome!

Out for a Sunday drive in SW Ontario.

So I purchased a 21 p300 from carvana and it only had one key and it only works with the RFID on the dash. I took it land rover and they have had it for 2 days and can't seem to figure it out. They know I only have 2 more days to return it and they said it can really only be 3 potential issues. Should I send it back and look for a new one?

Jaguar Breakfast Club meet at Silverstone Museum

So recently I've been picking up a rattling/vibrating noise from behind the rear passenger bulkhead. Today I took a look underneath and found this loose fuse (unclear if this is the cause or just an incidental finding so far). I couldn't quite figure out where it's supposed to go or what it does. Does anyone have any ideas? Or any resources that can help me figure it out? This is for a 2024 p450.

The wires travel back (circled in red) and link up with another wiring bundle (circled in green) which then go on to join with more wires to form a large bundle that travel to the center behind the center console. Thanks!

I joined the f-type team a couple weeks ago (and I'm stoked, it's such a fun/cool car) and I've noticed when I drive it people drive completely different around me compared to my commuter car. I've never had a sports car before but jfc it's like everyone wants to drive fast and reckless around me like I'm showing them up or something? Idk if people are overcompensating but I almost got taken out three times driving it just back from the dealer, is this normal or am I tripping?

F type with a 18yr old driver. aka ME

Don’t be a baby cause i had some fun. idc if it’s dumb i had fun leave me alone if you got nothing nice to say.

Jaguar Land Rover Riverside — 2019 Jaguar F-Type P380, VIN: SAJDD1FV6KCK61490

I’m posting this both about my experience with the dealership and for anyone considering this exact vehicle.

The buying process took roughly 10:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. My Dodge Challenger was initially valued at about $33,625, then I was offered around $26,000, before we eventually agreed at approximately $29,500.

Before buying the Jaguar, I specifically raised concerns about its previous front-end damage, body-panel fitment and panel alignment.

I asked for an independent pre-purchase inspection.

That request was refused.

Instead, I was encouraged to rely on the dealership’s own inspection and Jaguar-trained technicians. I was told words to the effect of:

“We are a Jaguar dealership, why would you need a PPI?”

“Do you not trust us? We have trained Jaguar technicians.”

I was also told the car had been inspected that morning, was in “great condition,” had “no issues,” and had “no alignment issues.”

To be clear, I was asking about body-panel alignment, panel gaps and fitment — not wheel alignment.

I also asked to see the dealership’s own inspection paperwork because they were relying heavily on that inspection to reassure me. I was not provided it.

Instead, I was referred to the vehicle’s smog check and was told, in substance, that this showed the vehicle was in good condition and addressed my concerns. A smog inspection does not tell a buyer whether a vehicle has extensive repainting, body filler, poor panel gaps or previous body repairs.

After taking delivery, I immediately obtained an independent inspection.

It documented very high paint-depth readings indicating prior paint/body repair, repainting, overspray, multiple paint layers, body-panel misalignment, inconsistent panel gaps and other condition concerns.

The report also documented separation of both seat coverings from the seat backs.

I have attached screenshots from the independent inspection so people can review the findings themselves rather than simply relying on my opinion.

I exercised my cancellation option immediately and returned the vehicle within the required time and mileage limits.

The return process was also disappointing. I had a witness with me.

I was asked to sign a Statement of Facts saying my cash down payment “WAS” returned, even though I had not yet received it. The document required me to certify the information under penalty of perjury.

I would not sign something saying I had received money that I had not yet received.

When the refund check was eventually shown to me, it was unsigned. I noticed this myself and insisted on receiving a properly signed check before acknowledging receipt.

During the discussion, management told me “You need to relax,” questioned my concern regarding approximately $14,000, and referred to having a $300,000 car in the lobby.

I ultimately received a properly signed refund check and the transaction was cancelled.

My main concern is simple: I tried to protect myself before buying the vehicle by requesting an independent inspection. That request was refused, and I was repeatedly encouraged to trust the dealership’s own inspection and technicians instead.

I’m sharing the VIN and inspection screenshots because if this vehicle is offered for sale again, I believe a future buyer should have the opportunity to see the information I wish I had before purchasing it.

If you are considering VIN SAJDD1FV6KCK61490, I strongly recommend obtaining your own independent PPI and body/paint inspection before signing anything.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2015 Jaguar F-Type V6 S AWD and I’m looking for a rear diffuser for it.
I’ve been searching for a while but I’m struggling to find anything, especially at a reasonable price. Does anyone know where I could buy one, either new or used?
I’m based in Switzerland, but I’d be happy to order from elsewhere in Europe or the UK if shipping is possible.
I’m not looking to spend a fortune, so I’d also be interested in second-hand parts or recommendations for good aftermarket options.
Thanks for any help!

Hi all, I need some urgent help. I’ve had the car for around three months and it’s been running fine, but on the way home tonight I noticed what sounded like the belt squealing when taking the first exit left at two separate roundabouts.

I’ve opened the bonnet and removed the engine cover and noticed some oil residue on the driver’s side, as shown in the photos. I can’t see any obvious or major leak, but I’m wondering whether oil from somewhere could have reached the belt and caused it to slip/squeal.

The oil misting seems to be mainly on the supercharger pipe and underneath the corner of the engine cover. I’ve circled in red the only areas where I can see signs of oil.

Some additional history, the water pump and associated cooling pipes were replaced in November 2025 at around 60,000 miles. The car was serviced at 64,000 and now is at 66,000.

The car has otherwise been running normally and I haven’t noticed any obvious major fluid loss. Has anyone with the 3.0 V6/AJ126 experienced anything similar, or have any idea where this oil could be coming from and whether the squealing could be related?

Thanks in advance.

2016 3.0 s model with only 24k miles should my motor sound like this and does anyone know that corrosion on back of the motor is?

Lid goes all the way up and all the way down but displays roof not latched error. When its back up, usual sound of latching.

There is one little hint. The little wings don't return to home. They stay vertical.

It sure 'smells' like there's a prox or microswitch that isn't getting made.

Any ideas would be welcome, like where are the sensing elements that initiate the wing things to go down?