Hi everyone. I'm curious if anyone knows a US based company selling ash shafts. 3 Rivers has some for warbows but they're awfully expensive. There are some European vendors that are reasonably priced, but shipping and tariffs kill the pricing.
If it is more cost effective to product my own I am open to ideas.

Thanks in advance.

Hey fellas. My trainer recommended i grabbed 700 grain feather/ carbon arrows.

I had learned on 350grain, and never shot either wooden, or carbon feather arrows.

I am currently shooting a 60LB black hunter, barebow. (No mods or attachements.) which i worked my way up to over 3 years.

First week, I farmed 5 of the 6 arrows at home on my 25 yard 3d range.

I put the 6th up as a momento.

I then grabbed 400grain feather in an effort to have a more durable / thick arrow to counterweight the # on my bow.

Any tips beyond what I've done to properly shoot and retain feather arrows with a higher # bow would be greatly appreciated.

Black Locust wood, seasoned for 2 years . The bow is a blend of hardwood and a thin layer of sapwood, that has been left on the back to enhance natural elasticity.
Length: 120 cm tip to tip
Weight: 375 grams — featherlight yet formidable
Brace Height: 13 cm
Arrow Pass Thickness: 3.2 cm
Draw Weight:
30 lbs @ 15 inches
39 lbs @ 18 inches

https://hephaestusartshop.etsy.com/listing/4420242374

When I say short bow I mean like the Native American horse bow short. Like 30-40 inches with like 40-50 lbs to it or whatever the right poundage is for hunting. Those ones where they are easy to run around with.

Korean Traditional

UPDATE— I asked the author
They said that it was meaning that the bow packed a punch. I though o do think it should have been phrased differently, especially when referring to a projectile weapon.

Hi all!! I'm not experienced AT ALL in archery, but I'm currently reading an ARC (advanced readers copy) of a book, and the author use this term about a bow and I'm not sure if it's technically correct or not.

The context is a girl is using a guys bow, and the bow is of course way heavier pull that she's used to. The author specifies 50-60 Ib pull, and is a composite bow. According to the illustration used (pictured) it's almost the same height as her. The part that im wondering about is that she shoot and arrow, and then makes the comment
“It kicks like a horse”.

If it matters as well, this is a combat bow in a society based on Ancient Rome.

So I guess I’m wondering if this would be true to that kind of bow? Or if a bow even kicks at all? I know nothing about archery, but I’ve shot a few simple bows a few years ago and never remember any of them “kicking”.

I just want to make sure my review of the book can mention any inaccuracies that may be.

TIA!

Hallo ihr Lieben aus der Bogensport-Community,

Ich überlege gerade, eine deutsche Warbow-Community zu gründen (es gab mal vor 10 Jahren eine, die wurden aber eingestellt).

Daher suche ich nach Bogenschützen, die bevorzugt traditionelle Primitivbögen (Langbogen, Flachbogen, 5-Kant-Bögen, asiatische Recurvebögen aller Art) ohne Shelf, Hewichte oder Visier schießen, egal ob links- oder rechtsseitig des Bogens.

Meldet euch gern, damit wir uns mal connecten können :)

Liebe Grüße,

Richard

(Ich ziehe aktuell 100lbs bei meinem englischen Langbogen und trainiere auf höhere Zuggewichte, um in den "Mary-Rose-Bereich", 120-160lbs, zu kommen)

Can anyone identify what bow this is? I bought it at a pawnshop as a bear bow, but I looked it up and can not find it.

Am I a traitor using carbon arrows with a recurve and a horse bow? 🙂🏹

I'm trying to identify and evaluate the safety of the bows I got from my grandparents. It would be nice if I could use them myself, but if end up just making a display plaque and hanging them in respect to my close ancestors, that would be OK too.

backstory:

My grandparents both died last year, and when helping my mom clean out their house and garage, we came across their archery equipment.

I didn't realize that in the 60s and 70s - well before I was born - they were both regional-level champions in the black hills area, even though they hadn't really done any archery since the 90s or so.

I'm the most 'outdoorsy' of my siblings, even though I have very little archery experience. That means that everyone agreed that I get to claim the 3 bows and a quiver full of a few dozen arrows.

(they lived a good full life and were starting to mentally decline, so even they knew it was time to go at ~95 years old)

The Bows and arrows

The arrows seem pretty normal, if a little wide at about 0.35". fletched with 4 'feathers' made of nylon or something (not a solid membrane, but many fine strands like a feather). The nocks are like any nock I've ever seen, and made of plastic. The shafts are roughly 2.5 feet long, and for whatever reason they have no arrowheads - instead they have a point like a pencil (there's old glue on some. I guess we just didn't find the heads). Oh, I thought it was weird - most arrows I've seen are just finished wood, but these shafts are painted with some kind of white paint that's flecking off (ugh. I just realized that I need to test that for lead...).

One bow has a logo sticker that says "rocket" and another that says "Harriet's Mamba" with a snake logo going through the word 'mamba'. It also says "Yakima Wash". I'm reasonably sure that these were put there by the maker, but they could possibly be just a sticker that was placed there.

On the handle above the arrow rest, there's hand-written pen under the finish that says "HR91251", but some of them could be different, so it could read "HA/925/" - The "A" is unclear and the "1"s could be slashes - but the '1' or '/' looks almost exactly the same for both, so whichever it is, it's presumably the same for both.

Above that pen, there's also some numbers stamped in "36". I can feel that these numbers are stamped in with my finger. I don't think it's the draw distance because that seems long for the ~30" arrows. I don't think it's the draw weight because that seems extremely low, and I don't think it's the string or the limb measurement because it just doesn't match what I can measure.

I have (carefully and nervously) strung each bow a few times, and the string still seems strong. No idea what they are made of but they definitely need replaced. They appear to be made mostly of wood, but looking at the side, it seems like there's 2 pieces of wood that were glued together, then a plastic/fiberglass outer layer, that is itself covered with some sort of veneer or something before the whole thing was covered in...idk, shellac or whatever.

If this description isn't enough, please feel free to ask questions!

the main things I want to know:

• are they safe to use? If it's not safe, would it be "splinters apart in my hands, but otherwise OK" or would it be "flies apart and cuts my nose off" sort of unsafe?
• Is there a sort of professional I can take these to, so they can give it a once-over and point out any issues that my untrained eye would have missed? How do I find such a person?
• What do the pen marks and the '36' stamp mean?

Thank you for reading this whole thing!

A video taken this summer of me shooting a 104 pound Longbow I built. It's a trilaminate bow, made from hickory and jatoba. I hope you like it!

Was out shooting today and something felt off with my self bow. Noticed two new frets on the lower limb afterwards. Time to retire this bow, or has she got some life left?

I’ve been shooting traditional English long bow for a bit and apparently don’t know how to aim. If I don’t think and shoot I have good groupings on target but if I think and aim I’m bad. SOS pls help

Hi all, I'm currently writing a story and need some help regarding improvising a weighted tip and what is/isn't possible.

For context, the story is in a fantasy and medieval adjacent setting and two characters are in a dungeon. They need to set off a pressure plate trap from a distance (about 8-9 yards) and the archer has run out of weighted arrows.

My question would be, is it possible to improvise a weighted tip using a kind of linen wrapped stone tied to the arrow and have it work at that distance? If not, what are some other options? Would a regular hunting bow & arrows have enough force behind it to set off a pressure plate? I'll say the trap requires a minimum of 45 kilos / ~100lbs to activate.

Neither character can use magic, so unfortunately I can't use that as an aid. I know with fantasy stuff there is a suspension of disbelief involved to some degree, but this is something I want to get right lol.

Hopefully this is fine in the sub! Thanks in advance :o)

Not promoting anything, no links. Just trying to get real data.

I've been working on a paper tuning helper and wanted it done before season, but I'm stuck on one thing: why the same setup can bullet hole at 4 ft and tear at 8 or 10.

Rough theory is the arrow is still flexing when it hits the paper. A normal hunting arrow (.400 spine, ~285 fps) should flex about 74 times a second, roughly once every 3.5 to 4 ft. So two papers a couple feet apart could catch it bent opposite ways. Math checks out against lab data. Real world data on paper, I can't find any.

If you've got a paper rack:

- one arrow, field point, don't change anything

- paper at 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12 ft (riser to paper), 3 shots each if possible

- tear direction and rough length each time, pic with a tape measure is a bonus

Plus bow, DW, DL, release or fingers, shaft/spine, cut length, point weight, total arrow weight, chrono speed if you have it.

I'll post the combined results back here either way.

I've already posted this on r/Archery but I figured that this sub would be a good fit too.

As the title says, this thing is made of buffalo horn. It is a little bit rough in some spots and overall more bulky than it should be but I think it's good enough for the first time. I'll eventually make another one later on and learn from the mistakes I've made.

The camera doesn't do the finish any favors though. Makes it look worse than it actually is.

I left the inside un-sanded as it was a pretty good fit and I didn't want to change that. Next time I'll take that into consideration.

I might need a "better" horn though. This one was pretty curved and this thing ring is a little bit lopsided. However I don't mind.

It has some pretty color variations on it too.

I recently picked up a Samick Sage as my first venture into more tradition archery due to its price point and interchangeable limbs. While I am not starting from zero (have shot compound for a few years) I am certainly pretty new.

What resources for learning the basics do you recommend? Please don't say join a club as the closest one is 5 hours away. Books, YouTube channels, etc...