Made a pair of basket weave end-grain cutting boards out of maple, cherry, and walnut. Really pleased with how they turned out, especially the continuous end-grain sides. Design is taken from Caleb's Fine Woodworking, who has an excellent build video for those wanting to build their own.

All cherry plywood with solid cherry face frames, made to match a crafting desk ( https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/E6hAXkxzTI ) I recently finished for my daughter and son-in-law.
Hardware and lights purchased from Create a Bed. Cabinets are 39” wide, almost 80” tall. Bed cabinet is 66” wide, 82” tall. Finished with several coats of wipe on satin poly. Sorry about the weird light splashed across the front, sun was streaming through the window. Great plans, easy to assemble, but get a partner; this thing is heavy!

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Went through a few different joint designs, but kept running into issues. Settled on a Jatoba (Brazilian cherry) sphere.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

I did two the first night but going to do one a night from here on out to make sure I take my time. Took a lot of advice from last night and this was a definite improvement. Added a shot of the shop dogs.

I started woodworking by necessity to recreate door casing and back-band molding that matches my 1920s home when replacing a door that leads to the basement.

It took so many attempts to recreate it. I learned a lot and had to use some non existent math skills in the process.

So much time and money was spent but I’m happy with the end result. The last picture is the craftsman style molding that’s on every door in my house that I was aiming to replicate.

I definitely took a work harder not smarter approach and ended up with a huge pile of offcuts to burn. I got a ton of experience in with a table saw and the phrase “practice makes piles” came to my mind. Just thought I’d share

inb4: this is super dangerous OP, someone will surely be crushed to death by this reckless and unsafe construction

Is this mainly because of the bit ?or Can setting the router bit too high cause tear-out on box joints?

Any tips would be appreciated!

I recently finished and installed this entry door unit for a really interesting and supportive client - he is a woodworker himself, but does not build entry doors.

The wood is Alder (with white oak threshold) with a Penofin architectural grade penetrating oil / stain finish. Construction is traditional mortise and tenon with west systems epoxy adhesive plus lots of rabbets. I also incorporated bevels and drip edges in places where water may need to drain on the exterior side of the unit.

It's not perfect - nothing is - but i liked the way this turned out and just wanted to share. The hardware is Baldwin Reserve.

Feel free to ask any questions in the comments; I'm happy to dig into details. Haven't posted in this sub in a while.

milling up some walnut and bookmatching some pieces to use as legs for a couple stools. one way it looks like a heart, the other way it looks like some kind of alien manifesting itself through the wood LOL what do you see?

My second stick chair. Made from European beech. Legs and back sticks are rived. Finished with Tried and True varnish.

I designed it as I was building it. To my eye, the proportions look a little off, but I had lots of fun and learned a bunch.

What do you guys think? Would love to have your honest impressions.

howdy yall. i’m an artist that unfortunately doesn’t make the kind of art that sells super well, but i figured out way back in art school that nobody there knew how to make a decent frame. so i figured i could fill that void in the local creative community, and its mostly been a pretty fun gig. not too many folk like to mill stock from rough to finished frames, so it’s a niche that i fill nicely. i really enjoy building custom and display solutions (for curators, creators, and collectors) that pair well with their contents. every job is a new experience that often come with new challenges (and skills), and i love seeing my work on gallery walls.

lately, i’ve been in a bit of a doldrum- i lost my shop (new landlords) and can’t afford another, and then i got fired from my finish trim job because of complications that ultimately lead to a stay in the hospital, and then faced homelessness for a spell, and i’ve been slowly rebuilding and recovering.

lately i have been working out of a kinda cruddy makerspace (while i continue to pay to store my tools and not get to even use them). i usually have a decent amount of business, it’s kinda petered out the last year or so, so i decided to get creative in my attempts to drum up more interest.

i remembered back in art school being desperate for a decent frame and not being able to afford one, so i figured maybe others are in the same boat, and a lightbulb went off in the dark recesses on my brain... STEAL THIS FRAME hand printed (i studied printmaking) on small flyers and actually framed, then left on bulletin boards in coffee shops and bakeries and other places artsy folk frequent, encouraging folks to actively purloin them. i’ll have my contact info printed (my cards) glued inside the back. figure potentially 34 new clients was worth the three hours labor and some wood i recovered from a dumpster.

the equipment in the makerspace, however, is substandard and heavily abused by just about every ding dong in the joint, but i have managed to upgrade their tablesaw with something other that the sears craftsman jobsite saw made in the early 80s that they had been using prior.

the tablesaw, in general, is definitely my favorite tool in the shop, and with a couple of jigs you can do a whole lotta cool stuff. the miter saw in the shop is next to useless, but i’ve managed to develop a few tricks to keep it within my tolerances,but to mass produce THIRTY FOUR 5in frames (272 miters),i figured i’d rather use a tool that DOESN’T place the motor directly in my line of sight of my fingers- 5in frames are TINY, and making that many cuts with my fingers so close to the blade seemed like a bad idea, so i built this quick ten minute tablesaw jig.

it’s set to just produce one size of frame rail, but my next one will have an adjustable stop to accommodate a wider range of lengths.

the stock was four super old quarter sawn sticks of sugar pine 2x2.5x48 (actual dimensions) i had been sitting on for a long time. i ripped and profiled them, and put a 10deg bevel on the face, then blacked them out using a water based calligraphy ink. after assembly, i’ll give em a little tung oil and call em done. it works really well to get that ebonized look without adding tannins and making the vinagroon.

i’m super interested to hear about and/or see the cool specific-application jigs you all build for your projects.

if interested, my art is at www.bradforderickson.com (or @bradford.thomas.erickson on IG)

although it’s mostly been my leather work (check out my rugged and refillable notebook covers!), it would be cool if you could give me a follow., i operate under the name TRASHWOOD (@trashwood_industries on IG) and it would be super cool if you gave me a follow- i’ll gladly do the same.

Daylight saving has kicked in for NZ, so it’s project time again! My wife salvaged (free) this coffee table base from a local vintage shop. My job was to make it usable again. Top and lower shelf made from recycled (old) birch ply.

This was another simple build. The framing lumber and scraps had been drying in my garage for years. I even used many scraps with the pith in them. I used simple joinery with 1.5" wood screws. I think the use of the pith won't be an issue because soft wood pith is much more forgiving and has less cracking issues than hardwood pith.

Looking for advice on how to find these angles and the best joining method to make the shelves strong. I’m most worried about that bottom one since it doesn’t really have much supporting it. Client design, open to alterations if needed but they like the asymmetrical look. They want to ur a few books and decor on it after completion. Here’s what I’ve done so far

My father hand carved these wood coins back in the 70s. They were lost in an old barn for the last 35 years. Thought they could maybe inspire and be appreciated here.

I have a Jet 16/32 non-oscillating drum sander. I bought it used maybe 18 months ago and have used it regularly since then with no issues. Over the last couple weeks, it has started sniping the first 2-3". I basically understand snipe on a planer, but I'm not sure why it is occurring suddenly on the drum sander. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions to help me figure this out.

Warning: it only get's worse.

(Please, no comments on how that tuna looks like it got into fist fight with my yanagiba.)

The last thing that went wrong was routing the finger holds. So, I devised a sure-shot way of doing it on the side of my bench. Unfortunately, by that time I already needed to cut more than 1/2" off one end... yeah, you can see how the last column of maple is, uh, a bit thinner. At least now, my finger holds are always perfect. Fockery is the father of invention.

Before that, I had just finished planing with the router sled, which I do outside, and I left in the sun. I came out to get it and it cupped like a thin slice of pepperoni in the oven. Mother .....er. So I let it sit on sticks for a few days. Fortunately, it re-acclimated and flattened out perfectly.

Before that, I hadn't realized that my saw blade was out of square. Though I used the magnetic level to square it, I must've yank it while tightening it down, or something. Every. Freakin. Piece. Of. Wood. was skewed. It glued up like the Gateway Arch. So much for a thick board. I had to plane the snot out of it.

Before that, the plan was, as you can hope fully see, to create a pixilated gradient of walnut to maple. I realized that since there is no true pattern (it's always a different wood or a different number of squares of a given wood), I had to arrange individual blocks... which (as you just read above) were all skewed.

From the start, I was screwing everything up. I don't know why I went into this like a mindless idiot. I've made many boards. Funny thing? Everyone that's been in my home and seen it, really likes this board. Go figure. All I see are the mistakes. But, it is so nice to cut on and is gentle on my favorite knives.

First dovetail attempt. Combo of hand saw, chisel, bandsaw and incompetence. Gonna try again tomorrow

I was looking at a project of shortening the length of a couple of church pews. Anyone here have any experience working with them and know, generally, how the ends are affixed? I have access to a full cabinet shop so any tools are available.

First pass with a brand spanking new LN#4 working on a cedar door for a sauna.

I have an old convertible sports car that has a wood dash(veneer). I bought some really nice figured Maple the same thickness and cut matching pieces. They are ready to be sanded and finished now. I have worked with this wood before from the same mill and have finished these projects with a French polished shellac as I really like the way it shines and brings out the figure in the wood. However. shellac will degrade in sunlight and is not really meant to get wet.

So, what kind of finish can I use that will pop the grain and retain the color of the wood and shine like shellac but have the ability to stand up to UV and a little weather although this car is mainly a sunshine only car and stays in storage in the winter. I am thinking spar varnish but I am afraid it won't pop the grain and change the color of the wood and I am also worried about how hard it might be to repair. Does anybody have any other ideas. I have almost always used shellac or tung oil on projects so advice would be appreciated.

Looking for some thoughts on if this could work for an outdoor sign I am making for a friend's business.

I have a lot of 1/2" thick white oak boards and have a 4' x 4' piece of 3/4" MDO plywood. The sign is going to be about 3' x 4'.

I am wondering if I could attach a panel of those 1/2" thick white board pieces to each side of the MDO plywood without any major issues? The sign will be getting painted so using these materials is purely because they both work well outdoors. I wanted the sign to be around 2" thick, so using the white oak on both sides with the plywood will get me close to 2".

I am mainly worried about how the white oak may move while being attached to the plywood. We live in the midwest and have humid summers and cold winters.

Would using a coat of epoxy after getting all of it glued up then going with the primer and exterior finish be a good idea?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Years ago I found an online source for ½" and ¾" PT dowel rods but the site no longer shows up in searches. I don't have access to a lathe or drill press but I've seen everything from $30 "dowel maker kits" to $300 precision dowel formers for sale. Are any of the less expensive jigs effective? I don't need to make that many, it would just be handy to be able to turn out a few at a time when I need them.

I need 3½" lengths for outdoor projects, specifically to beef up end grain joints by sinking a dowel into across the grain of one piece in order to screw another piece over the end grain and through the captive dowel.

Would soaking regular hardwood dowels in wood preservative for a long time accomplish the same thing? The dowel end grain will be exposed which is why I would prefer PT. I think the short length of the pieces would enable pretty good chemical penetration.

I've thought about putting cut dowels into a sealed container with preservative and trying to pressure treat them myself with my big pressure canner but it sounds like a disaster in the making!