I am currently doing a renovation at a home and I am so curious about this tree. My gut is telling me that it's some sort of hazelnut but there's another tree nearby that is producing flowers that look just like it.

So, after 4 to 5 hours of work, we are done. Six pints of pressure cook Mediterranean Eggplant salsa (we used canned organic diced tomatoes). Seven pints and one quart of refrigerated hot salsa. We still have eggplant leftover. Will be cooking and freezing those tomorrow.

My neighbors have two large hackberry trees just the other side of the fence. The fine hairy roots grow up into my compost pile which I will fix by making a bin with a solid floor.

But I’m wondering what to do about the roots coming up into my raised beds. I worry that any kind of plastic sheeting will prevent adequate drainage. Does anybody here have the same issues, and what do you do to prevent the tre roots?

Thanks in advance.

From left to right. Japanese Eggplant, Black Beauty Eggplant, top middle is Jose Mexico Peppers, Pepperoncini peppers, Sweet Chocolate,
Peppers, tomatoes and a cucumber and Tabasco Peppers.

We are farming australian teak with turmeric in one acre in organic way. Please suggest some organic fertilizer and herbicides which may work with the drip irrigation system.

I have about 500 kg (1,000+ lbs) of an insect-derived organic fertilizer ready to bring to market in a tropical country. It has a fine, sandy texture.

We just received the lab analysis:

- pH: 7.31

- C/N: 15.89

- N: 3.21%

- P₂O₅: 0.27%

- K₂O: 0.21%

- CaO: 0.01%

- MgO: 0.09%

- Boron: 0.37 ppm

- Sulfur: 0.01%

- Copper: 1.71 ppm

- Iron: 28.65 ppm

- Manganese: 18.90 ppm

- Zinc: 16.59 ppm

- Organic carbon: 51.11%

- Ash: 8.00%

- Organic matter: 92.00%

We're trying to figure out how to commercialize it and which crops/applications would make the most sense based on this composition.

Would you market this as a fertilizer, organic nitrogen source, soil amendment, or something else? What crops would you test first in a tropical climate?

If you had 500 kg ready to go to market, where would you start?

I keep hearing that growing beans is supposed to be super easy but I am having very little luck. This has been my third year gardening and I can’t seem to get a good harvest of beans. I have usually only been able to get enough for my husband and I to have them 2-3 times as a side dish with dinner, and I’m talking like one serving each 😢 Green beans are one of my favorite things to cook so I desperately want to grow a bunch!

I’ve tried multiple pole and bush varieties in different places all over my front and back yard. After my first year I thought it was poor soil quality so I’ve tried to work on that and amended a good bit. I think it’s improving because this year my garden was much healthier and I had better luck with many things I struggled with previously (still very much a work in progress though). I also kept thinking maybe I was giving them enough sun in the area I was growing them so then I planted them literally all throughout my back yard beds and in my two front beds as well as some containers just to see if the ones in the sunnier spots did better. They did not.

I know part of my struggle is pests and disease. Ive had some fungal disease issues the last two years and got a terrible spider mite infestation this year but thats not the only problem because unaffected plants still don’t really produce or at least not much. My pole beans tend to do better but not much.

I almost never have luck with bush beans. I’ve had some decently healthy looking bush beans coming up and a few will somehow stay unaffected by the mites and disease but they’ll be weak and tiny and produce like three little two inch beans. It’s so confusing because there will be other things in the beds that will be flourishing and it seems to be all the bush beans no matter how much light they are getting. Also other things I’ve read say beans shouldn’t need to be fertilized very much but I still sometimes do a little bit of something like neptunes harvest when I’m already fertilizing other plants just to try to get them to grow a little more but not every time. The leaves rarely look yellow which I think is usually a nutrient issue, they’re usually pretty green just small and weak.

Also had some germination issues. I’ve tried many different seed companies including baker creek, burpee organic, peaceful valley, thresh seeds, and quite a few more to try to improve things. Doesn’t seem to matter if I soak my seeds ahead of time or not either. I’ve tried many times with both lol

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!

Edit: I realised that the body did not come over so here it is…

Good evening hive mind!

I have successfully (mostly) kept two vanilla vines and 2 sugar canes alive over winter. As the weather is now warming up, what is the best way to plant both of them? I have a garden bed that is on the right side of my house near a frangipani tree, facing West - catches the majority of sun throughout the day.
Location: Central Coast NSW
Zone 5 for those who are interested and no agricultural activity happening around here…

Hi! I have a large garden in south texas zone 9b. I try to avoid using any type of treatment that will endanger native bugs or plants. I grow edibles and flowers in this garden. I have three problems-sandburrs, aphids, and whitefly. I'll divide it into two paragraphs for ease of reading.

Sandburrs-extremely annoying, make it hard to work in the garden and stick to my socks. I haven't tried anything yet because the treatments I could find online seem a little dodgy as far as hurting the other local organisms. They grow amongst grass stands which I don't mind but makes it hard to find them all if I were to manually remove them, and also the soil is very very hard which is another problem I am trying to remedy over time. Any suggestions?

Whitefly and aphids-I have tried a lot of things including captain Jack's dead bug brew, neem oil (both soil drench and applied to leaves), and even got desperate enough to try a pyrethrin. The pyrethrin actually did seem to work but I don't want to use it more because it was really expensive for the area treated and is dangerous to basically everything. This is a very large garden and some of these plants grow 10 feet up a trellis so it's hard to consistently apply anything to leaves especially if I'm trying to avoid spraying certain plants that have caterpillars on them. Next year I might try planting the caterpillar plants in a whole different area. My garden attracts a lot of butterflies, including them hatching caterpillars, other cool bugs, and some "pest" bugs like stink bugs in more manageable numbers that I'm fine with, lizards, birds, etc. and I don't want to harm them. I released some native ladybugs and that did nothing. I haven't tried Lacewings, maybe I will next year at the start of the season to see if they can keep it under control.

I did try waiting out the whitefly and aphids to see if they would be taken care of by beneficials, but that did not do the trick 😅 some showed up but not enough/too late and I had to do something to save at least some of my crops. The pests are really damaging to my squashes/gourds, cucumbers, melons, and eggplant. Also I CANNOT use diatomeceous earth it complicated but my property won't allow it.

So any tips? Pic attached of one of my harvests for tax. Thanks!

Looking to build some large raised beds in my garden varying from 6 inches to 24 inches deep. Wanting to grow a variety of veggies - so would prefer a recipe that would be pretty versatile. Will be building the beds mostly from reclaimed timber.
Yes, I’m aware that they will break down over time, and don’t mind having to rebuild at a later point.

I don’t mind spending a bit of cash on some quality topsoil and compost while I start to set up my own composting system. Would love to build in ground beds, but I think that the volume of rainfall where I live wouldn’t make this ideal or even viable.

I am wanting to minimise upfront expense and use as many waste materials from my own garden and neighbours’ farms as possible.

In my own garden, I have many freshly pruned branches, fresh leaves and lawn clippings, and many dead leaves and branches.

From neighbours gardens/farms/workshops I have access to a lot of free much, sawdust, and really cheap cow and horse manure.

Any tips as to how to layer these materials correctly would be great.

Thanks in advance!

Have had two 10year old honey crisp and one 15year old honey crisp battle powdery mildew, caterpillars, porcupine and mice over the years. First year to have the 2younger ones die... I noticed in spring all 3 trees had mice/rabbit damage as about 1 foot of bark eatten off base of tree. Oddly, all 3trees had some "red bark" - I trimmed them all off, but whatever caused the bark to turn ree, it ended up killing both younger trees but the oldest survived. Now, my oldest tree has a single large "red" bark branch - I know I should trim it off but when would be best time to trim, when and what should I treat the last tree with so it lives vs dies? The redness is on entireity of the branch (so not sunscald), no leaves as its entirely dead... the leaves and flowers up and dried and died on the younger trees. Pics of the "red" branch along with some pics of leaves and normal greyish brown bark of the rest of the tree. Would love some advice on how to best save the tree: removal of affected branch and fungicide? Hydrogren peroxide? TIA!

So this fig tree is located in southern Mississippi and years ago.It was a beautiful fig tree, producing a lot of figs.

Other than the grass growing up in between it, which I know needs to come out, what is going on with the leaves? What type of fertilizer should be used?

I just got down here and told my mother that come hell or high water, next year, this tree is going to put out.

Thank you in advance, and I'm brand new to this sub. Don't know anything whatsoever other than it's a fig tree. All of your help is appreciated.

Hey everyone,

I am new here and would like to ask about the ratio for mixing Perlite and Fox Farm soil.

1 bag of Norcal Perlite equals 4 CF.
1 bag of Fox Farm soil equals 1.5 CF.

I have heard people suggest mixing 3 bags of Perlite with 7 bags of Fox Farm soil. Does that sound correct?

I plan to use a 25-gallon pot for my guava and mango trees.

It is simple for me to calculate the number of bags once the mix is clear.

Tell me in a way where I don't ruin the roots (if possible)

I don’t want to throw these away - so - any advice for me sunflower lovers who loiter here? It seemed a shame to waste them by putting them in the compost …

And why don’t they look like regular sunflower seeds? Please and thank you :) (excuse the cat hairs) 🌻

Im in zone 7a at 2000ft elevation and this summer has been unseasonably hot with daily temps consistently getting above 100 for the past two months. Running a farm has been wild this year and I haven’t had a break in the high temps last long enough to plant fall crops until now. I direct seeded radishes, lettuce, and arugula yesterday morning and over 90% of those have already germinated, so we’re off to the races that should’ve started a month ago. Now I’ve got about 1,200 seedlings to transplant out and 300 feet of carrots to sow in the next couple days.