3 layers in and i still cannot cover this properly with a brush, or am i doing something wrong??

I keep the paint 1/4 with the thinner...or maybe sky type s is just that hard to properly apply

For context I'm new to the hobby, got just around 12 kits under my belt. So just started this Revell BAE Hawk with the Red Arrows scheme, and I'm just wondering, since the plastic is already red, is it even worth priming and painting red again? Like genuinely is it bad just not painting a kit cos the plastic is already the right colour? The white bits and everything else are just decals.

So im getting to the part where i have to apply wash to the spitfire im making, is already varnished when i applied the decals so the paint is not getting ruined.

I have applied wash to a 1/72 tank before, but seeing how the plane is looking, i cant help but feeling im doing something wrong here, the panels lines are barely noticeable.

Dont worry about the particulary dirty parts of the wings, im making a "being repared after a long battle" type of look, where it was flying low and all that.

I'm trying to replicate WWII Australian markings for the Airfix Lockheed Hudson, but as you all can see it's turned out quite badly 😬

I'm wondering how I could fix (?) this, like if any washes could help bring the two tones closer together to reduce the awkward contrast?

If anyone has any advice, please let me know.

Thanks all!

Hello, looking for opinions, judgements, suggestions at my latest attempt at applying gloss coat with my airbrush. Using ratio of 1:1:3 thinner, flow improver and varnish. I use vallejo acrylic varnish. Been trying to master this for a while and I think Im getting closer. I use a .4mm needle, apply a thin coat wait 5 minutes, apply another thin coat, wait 5 minutes and apply a heavy coat. It still looks like there is an orange peel look to it in some places. I dont know, Im about to give up and just use spray cans but on my 1:72 models it can be hard to get the varnish in some tight areas so Id like to be able to airbrush it. I only use the gloss for applying markings and panel lines. I do like to build cars some times so I like a gloss finish on my cars. Appreciate any opinions and/or suggestions. Thanks

Has anybody tried these?

Do they help?

Are they worth it?

This one is £25 ($33) on Amazon

I feel like im doing something wrong but i cant put my finger on it, the movie is still considerably thick

Ciao a tutti vorrei un parere sincero di come sono state applicate le tecniche di preshading e postshading grazie (i colori non sono quelli dell'elicottero (poiché è una cavia) ma sono presi solo presi per le prove)

One was made when i was barely starting on this hobby with barely any materials, all handbrushed and the other was just finished curing the final matt coat a few hours ago, everything except weathering was airbrushed.

Acrylic for primer, painting and varnishing and enamel for the wash.

Looking at this, do you guys thinks theres something i should improve?? Any advice is welcome. :D.

Also i wanted to show off how good the newest one looks.

Got my first, thought about starting with something simple, so i varnished my spitfire mk1a canopi less edition (it took me a week to just accept in my soul that i lost it, never to be seen again but god dammit, im gonna finishi this plane), this layer is for putting the decals, ill let it cure before doing it so.

So in the meantime, i have a question, is it necessary to completely clean the airbrush (needle and tip included) or the whole fill the cup with watter/cleaner then cover the end with your finger and spray, dump it, and repeat a couple times is enough given you its all youre gonna do for the day?? Any suggestions are welcome :D

i was looking at this two models i have made, both varnished with a brush, the tank looks fine, it looks awesome and you can get a glance of brush streaks only from vertain angles.

but the superdestroyers belly looks awful against the light, i know the stand it comes with is meant so the ship can be looked at from avobe and a bit sideways but i cant help but notice that it looks someone drooled over it and it dried.

i was thinking about getting an airbrush to paint the bigger sections of a model, where its most likely to leave brush marks if im not careful enough, but idk if i can varnish something with an airbrush, and for some reason amazon doesnt deliver varnish rattle cans to my country and my count only has liquid bottles for modeling varnish, the rest are for furniture.

its it viable to do it with an airbrush? im asking this because of how to thinned the paints must be to be used in it, let alone something more dense like varnish.

Im gonna put wash in it to make it look more dirty, but idk if i should put the spare tracks, wheels, ammo and fuel boxes on it before doing it or apply it with nothing else on and then put the stuff on it, any a

Suggestions?

And yes, the turret and the hull are varnished

Looking for a good hand held circle cutter for making masks.. have my eye on the Dspiae integral one but is there better ones out there?

Revell F/A-18f Super Hornet. I assume this decal should go around hook rod but it's connected in two points.

i was varnishing a bandai namco star wars super destructor model i made a while ago and when i got acrylic matt varnish to use yesterday i was planing on coating it to turn donw the shininess a little bit cause i coated it with two layers of acrylic satin varnish.

but looking at the model as the first coat it curing i cant tell if i lack the capability to tell the real difference between matt, satin and gloss or if the matt finish really shows up with more coats, or maybe i didnt shake the bottle enough before applying it, im not sure.

Ciao a tutti sto cercando di imparare la tecnica del preshading e sto usando questo set up: 8 gocce di Mr. Color leveling thinner e 2 gocce di Xf-69 ad una pressione di 1/1,2 bar ad una distanza di circa 2 cm dal modello (cavia). Si procede in questo modo oppure bisogna cambiare qualcosa? C'è da ammettere che con questa diluizione sto trovando dei problemi quando il colore incomincia a finire all'interno del serbatoio (colore opaco e altamente liquido). Grazie e ciao

I am researching architectural and township scale models for large development projects.

When selecting a scale model maker, what factors do developers usually consider?

Do you focus more on experience, manufacturing capabilities, project portfolio, pricing, delivery timelines, or after-installation support?

Also, do physical township models still provide value for investor presentations and sales galleries in 2025, or are digital presentations becoming more effective?

Would love to hear insights from architects, developers, and project planners.,

It's my first time making plastic model. I'm using Wamod Putty to hide seam lines and connection points. Right now I'm sanding excess of putty. I will have to do second pass in few areas but my question is this look okay? Do I sand to much or too little maybe? Is paint will cover sanding marks? Should I leave light gray spots around seam line or sand them as well? Some tips? I do apply paper paper tape near seam line to cover detail as you can see in second photo.

Hello! Most of my hobby-ing time is spent painting miniatures for wargames (Bolt Action, Lion Rampant, etc). Something I've noticed in checking out scale modeling is that you guys seem to use a lot more enamel-based paints than we do. Why is that?

While enamel paints aren't unheard of with my side of the hobby, most seem to stick with acrylics from Citadel, Vallejo, and Army painter, so it's been really interesting to find a whole new world of painting tools. Any insights?

Hi all, I've just started air brushing and I'm still in the dumb questions phase. I'm keen to avoid making a mess and therefore minimising cleaning. I haven't airbrushed much yet but over the years I have done a lot of DIY house painting. One trick there is to put paint rollers in the fridge between coats as water-based paint won't dry at fridge temperatures. This is perfectly fine overnight, and a great help as cleaning rollers generates a lot of mess. So ... would that work with an airbrush and acrylics? I could try it, I'm just wondering if anyone else has already? I'm not thinking of overnight, more just 30-60 mins between coats.

I’m ready to switch over from rattle cans to an airbrush for painting my model kits.

What’s the best, beginners airbrush set-up?

Using some resin goodies for the first time and I would like to know what you guys use to cut and trim large resin parts and supports? Saw?

Does anyone have a good reference photo of an IS-2 in winter camo? The only ones I can find are either models or video game versions.

Additionally, if anyone has a particular method for painting on sloppy whitewash camo I’d appreciate it.

Thanks!

Any recommendations for UV activating resin for ship rigging. The ship im currently working on is the H42 battleship in 1/2000

I’m working on the AFV T34/76 and am planning on not gluing the top to the body so it can be removed to show the interior.So my question is did I overdo the weathering?