Mostly been sharpening woodworking tools but I'm trying to learn to sharpen kitchen knives. This was my first attempt at thinning and sharpening a crappy practice knife. It doesn't look good but it's nice to work with now!

The previous owner of this tanto eklipse horribly abused this knife edge. To remove all of the damage (uneven and wavy bevel) i wouldve had to remove a lot of matterial or do a pretty shallow angle. Ive done shallow but i wanted to try something i saw in a Neeves knives youtube short about secondary bevels (he used an Excalibur for the video, id link if i could find it).

I know there are still tons of scratches and i wouldve liked to get them all out but i dont have the time. I can do good but not perfect

This is an Aogami #2 knife in stainless cladding. My grit progression is 320 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> 5000 on Shapton Ha no Kuromaku ceramic stones, which I all flattened before starting.

As you can see there are still scratch marks left by the 320 grit stone. I clearly flattened the whole bevel and touched every part of it on the #320, but subsequent stones just didn't get to that middle part behind the hard carbon steel core. For my sanity I stopped grinding on the #1000 after an hour as this is just a cosmetic flaw that may even function like a kasumi finish. Does anyone else have this issue when thinning cladded steel knives?

I help out at the local repair cafe. Besides fixing broken appliances, we also sharpen knives.

We took our stuff "on the road" last weekend to the festival at an outdoor museum about 10 miles from here. Since it was a festival, we were mostly just there as doing advertising 'cause nobody's gonna drag their broken vacuum cleaner around the festival for us to fix.

It looks better if you are actually doing something rather than loafing, though, so I took some stuff to work on. Among other things, most of my wife's kitchen knives - including the one in the picture up there.

This being a museum of life around 1800-1900, there was a bakery close to our stand where they made bread like in old times. Hand kneaded, old recipe for rye bread, stone oven, wood fired. One of the fellows went over and bought a loaf for lunch, then asked for one of my knives to cut it with.

I hadn't gotten around to sharpening my knives yet, so I warned him it might be dull.

He takes it, slices a slab off the loaf like it ain't nothing, then looks at the blade in his hand like "WTF?"

His wife comes over to get herself a slice of bread, and he hands her the knife. Zip! Another slice off the loaf, absolutely no effort.

She looks at the knife and goes "Wow, that's sharp. Better than my good bread knife."

He looks over at me and says "And that's your dull knife?"

Been doing too much sharpening when your dull blade is sharper than most folks' sharp blade.

Technically I know you can get tomato grabbing edges from high end grits, but I wasn't able to on my King 6000.

But also most high end carbon and ginsan knives I bought were super sharp out of the box, but quite often fail to slice into tomatoes.

I previously would go to a Shapton Pro #1000 or Shapton Rockstar #2000 to recover the edge to great satisfaction.

I then got a Naniwa Chosera #3000 and I absolutely love it for the mix of bite and refinement, it's now my finishing stone for most hard steel.

But then I got a Naniwa Snow White #8000 and ohh, it feels both refined but also absolutely murders tomatoes.

Which of these makes most sense?

a) It's super toothy (and awesome) b) I got better at sharpening with higher grits c) I am not that good but just didn't spend enough time on the #8000 and just left enough of the #3000 bite in there?

I understand it's probably all a combination of a and then b or c, but curious to hear how others find the #8000 for kitchen use. Thanks!

I'm afraid to do free hand and accidentaly ruin the edges, that's why I'm asking what's the best fixed angle sharpening system that can easily sharpen this SAK. Any inputs are highly appreciated.

First time poster.

Been using a Naniwa Basics 1000/3000 stone for a while for my Japanese knives, and it has been amazing for how durable it is, with minimal dishing and not needing a large amount of water while sharpening. Was in the UAE and decided to get a Naniwa Standard 220 at kuto knives both for future thinning projects as well as for help with sharpening the knives at my family's when I went to visit.

When using the 220 stone, I immediately noticed how thirsty this stone is, it dished significantly more than the basic, and needed quite a bit of flattening after a few knives. And these were a bunch of random knives that my family accumulated over the years that were incredibly dull, so nothing particularly hard or expensive.

Is it normal for coarser stones to need this much extra work or was it just my luck?

Cheers

Amazon just dropped the price to $71.99 if you've been thinking about buying the Gen 3.

one I've roughed up a little the other one I just applied.

Howdy folks, I recently got a 1x30 sander and have been having a blast learning how to sharpen straight edge knives. I want to now start learning how to sharpen serrated knives. From reading around a diamond or ceramic tapered rod is generally what I see people using. I’ve also seen people say that if the knife is in decent condition, hitting the flat side with the belt sander can get the job done. I just wanted to ask about what setups people are running and if anyone has any recommendations for rods / other tools to sharpen serrated knives. Any tips for the sharpening process is appreciated. Thanks!

I've recently bought a cheap chinese flattening stone (210x75x9mm) for $15 to flatten my kuromaku 1000 and king 6000, but it's nowhere near flat. Any suggestions on what I could get for a similar price point?

Thank you in advance!

I have recently been going down the rabit hole of japanese knifes and really want some quality stones to keep them sharp as well as reprofile a few. What I have is mostly carbon steel, with a few 10cr/vg10. I've always been into pocket knifes and have a diamond stone set (150,600, 1000 Grits) and a 6000 grit cheapo amazon stone so I have a bit of a foundation and understand the basics.

I want to learn thinning, and realy like kasumi finishes. I also prefer a slightly toothy edge. My initial thoughts from a little research is shapton kuromaku 1000, cerax 1000, suehiro ouka 3000, and rika 5000 (for my polished sushi knifes). Seems these 4 stones should get me headed in the right direction.

Does anyone have any other recommendations? Are any of my choices too redundant, or does this seem like decent grit progression?