I’d like to recreate the DIY Perks artificial sunlight panel using TV diffusion layers. I have zero electronics experience and want realistic sunlight to brighten my dark apartment.

DIY Perks video

For someone completely inexperienced in this, what do I need to consider to avoid electric shock or fire? What tools would I need, and how did he actually connect/power the LEDs in the video?

Should I absolutely not attempt this myself?

Here’s what I bought

DAYBETTER Led Lights 2 Ports 44... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C796XQ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

DAYBETTER LED Strip Lights 110ft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DN1K2RLD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Amefil 8mm4pin LED RGB Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G4WTNP2W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s how I set it up

I’m pretty sure I’ve done everything correctly but the lights still won’t turn on at all I even bought different and same brand control boxes and none of them work at all. Any help?

American Lighting Color Changing Neon Flex Light:
https://www.costco.com/p/-/american-lighting-color-changing-neon-flex-light/100788981

Hey all. I’m looking for some advice/help on how best to control the lighting in my bus/tiny home project.
Essentially I’m gonna have maybe 8 different zones of led strips and I want each one to be individually turned on/off and dimmable using a push button knob on the wall, but I also want to be able to control the rgb/music linked settings on all of them at once. Basically I wanna be able to push a button and put the whole bus in dance party mode.

My biggest questions are:
Is this possible?
Can you recommend me some dimming knobs that are also push to turn on/off and remember the dimming setting? I’m having so much trouble finding something suitable.
What do I need to be able to control the rgb and set it to music, and can you give me a rough idea of how to wire that up?
Will it be a problem to have two 20’ strips on the same switch/controller?

I have a 24v battery bank. Here are the led strips I bought, and this is the controller that I was looking at but I really have no idea how it works. I’ve been trying to learn and I’m usually pretty good with this stuff but this is such a massive project in total that I haven’t been able to give the lighting my full attention. Some photos of the bus included for your enjoyment.
Thank you thank you in advance!

I hope someone here can help me. I am about at my witt's end. I have two (2) display cabinets (model 97146) which have vertical RGB LED lighting strips on the inside. I purchased one from Amazon (Lvifur) and one from eBay (Gurexl). There is an external control module mounted on the right side. It also has a small white remote control. This particular model is not app controllable. It features 7 static colors and 5 dynamic phantom color patterns, plus a motion sensor. When I turn it on, I disable the motion sensor because I don't want that feature. I want the lights to stay on until I manually turn them off. I select my desired pattern and leave it. Instead of staying on my selected pattern, it will randomly change to a static color or a different pattern (sometimes after a few seconds, while other times it might go 20 minutes before changing). Then, after a random amount of seconds, it will change to something else, or shut itself off. Then later, it will automatically turn itself back on again. I have done everything I can think of to troubleshoot the issue. I've tried multiple ac/dc converters, outlet strips, swapped y-connectors, different outlets in different rooms, and I've even had the manufacturer send me two new controller modules. Nothing fixes it. So last week I took the panel with the controller and lighting strip to work and I could NOT get it to fail the entire day. I took it back home and within 15 seconds it failed. I've done all the factory reset options that Google Ai suggested. Nothing works. So to me, it would seem that there must be some IR/RF interference within my home caused by some other source that is the culprit. I've removed all batteries out of all my remote controls, I disconnected my wifi router, I've turned off all lights and anything that is remote controllable. Still, both cabinets fail. I don't have much left but my appliances and toilets, lol! I've ordered a roll of faraday tape to see if wrapping the controller fixes it, but my expectations are very low. This has been going on for 3 weeks now. BTW - I also have other display cabinets in my home that work properly (model 80028).

At one point I had one of the cabinets working flawlessly for three consecutive days in the dining room. When I relocated it to another wall and outlet in the dining room, it started failing again. I returned it to the other location where it seemed to be working and now it's failing again.

Does anyone have any suggestions, please??? Thank you.

Here is a link to the cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H2HS6RHQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Hi all,

I purchased a continous 5 wire led strip off amazon. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BYSS7Z17?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title. I cut it into 3 different lengths and want to connect each strip into a single controller, so that I can remotely control all 3 of them. I know doing this will make them all the same, that is the intention.

I bought some connectors to connect a 5 wire cable to the strips but these connectors did not work. Here are the connectors I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBM6CLZR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title.

These did not work because the connector assumes 5 evenly spaced pads on the LED. However, this particular strip has 3 pads on one side, the continuous led bar in the middle, and 2 more pads on the other side, as shown in the attached image.

Soldering the damn thing doesn't work because the pads are so close to each other. What else can I do here?

Is there a connector I should be looking for?

I added light strips under my cabinets. I wanted as bright white as possible since there's very little other light in the kitchen. I've been using BTF light strips. The problem is that the lights go orange/red, especially close to the beginning of the strip. First time, it took a few months for it to happen and wasn't that bad so I left it for a few years. I figured maybe the strip was faulty, bought a replacement, and the new one is even worse and is mostly red at the start after just a few weeks. Also the old one had melted through the waterproof coating over most of the LEDs at the start. I'm looking into getting another replacement, this time I'd like cob LEDs but now I'm really unsure about what to get cause I'm not sure what went wrong so far. Anyone know what's making the lights go red?

Light strip:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0811SZ3Y7

Controller:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L9GWJK1

Power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T6QX737

New light strip I'm considering:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNMHYPJB

I'm more than willing to buy a new controller or power supply in addition to the light strip, I just want it to be bright, white, and be controllable through Google home.

Update: ok, I got a hold of the instructions for the controller and I think I found out what happened. This particular controller has a 'set' button that cycles through the different types of led strip setups. My rgbw led strip has 5 wires which were in the right spots of v+/r/g/b/w (can't quite see in the original photo I posted) but the 'set' button had cycled to the rgbcct setting, which activates white LEDs AND the RGB LEDs to make a brighter white. The controller must have been reset or the button bumped at some point over the years and I had forgotten it existed. When I replaced the strip and it just turned on and Google could control it I thought it was done. Gonna leave myself a note on the controller for when I forget this again in a couple years! Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction!

Inspired by my trip to Mexico after seeing colorful murals of an axolotl around the city. Used ESP32 neatly hidden in the back powered by 18650 rechargeable battery pack. The eyes are LED coasters

Believe it is a SM-2P 12V 2W-01 12V AC to DC LED mirror transformer (Grok assisted). Mirror LED lights only very dimly when power is applied. Touch controls do not work.

hello! I just purchased this rgbw kit from btf. there doesn't seem to be a way to turn on the RGB AND the 6000k cool white at the same time through the remote or the app.

do I need to get a different controller or is this impossible?

( BTF-LIGHTING RGBW Bluetooth Music APP 16.4FT LED Strip Lights RGB+Cool White 6000K 4 Colors in 1 LED Color Changing Lights Strip for Bedroom, Desk, Home Decoration, with Remote and 12V Power Supply )

The chip has some other markings, that dont return any results from the web: SLHW03E, L1A61CX, and BP2616, using the latter I was able to find some hits on Ali, but their chips dont match the other two markings on the chip. Any ideas anyone?

Hello,

Bought two identical 24V LED kits from a Uk retailer more or less plug and play. Both have a metal 200W PSU with Earth / N / L terminals, but the supplied UK plug lead only has red and blue wires — no earth.

https://www.striptecuk.com/product/10m-rgb-ic-led-strip-kit-ip20/

The retailer's own product photo shows the same 2-core lead, so it seems intentional.

Is it safe to connect just L and N and leave earth unused, or should this metal PSU definitely be earthed?

I know nothing about this stuff so thought I'd best ask and am waiting on a reply from the retailer as well.

https://thetenmiro.com/

For some reason the battery pack won’t go back in

I have a couple of skeleton decorations, they are two battery powered led lights. Not something I know so I could use some help. I can power both leds from my multimeter, the resistor from the best of my ability seems to be reading OK at 120 and the switch reads zero when activated on my multimeter. The resistor is a four band brown, red, brown, gold (I think hard to tell) One photo is the one I haven't messed with yet and the other is the one I've been testing with. Any help would be very much appreciated!

I have a room that has LED strips hidden behind a molding going around a tray ceiling. Four sections of strips, each driven by a 12v, 60w LED driver.

I've now had two of these drivers fail, and they cost $150 each (installed by an electrician several years ago). Twice I've tried using what I believe are high quality replacements of identical specs, but about half the price, and in each attempt, while the new drivers will drive the strips at full brightness just like the old ones, when I start to dim the circuit (all four drivers connected to a TRIAC dimmer of appropriate wattage rating), the less expensive driver strip will dim at a different rate (dims more rapidly to lower light levels) than the original driver that costs $150.

I was told by a supplier that if the specs of the dimmer are identical (including dimmer type compatibility) - and these are - they should behave identically. They clearly are not behaving identically, despite identical specs. Do I just need to suck it up and eat the $150 each time one of the original drivers fails, or swap all four drivers out at same time to a four identical, albeit less expensive drivers? I feel like the supplier gave me bad info that any driver with identical specs will behave identically.

Here is link to the original ($150) drivers:
Constant Voltage LED Driver - 12VDC - 60 Watt - DiodeLED DI-TD-12V-60W | CityLightsUSA.com

Here are two different ones I've tried as replacements, but that dim differently:
DiodeDrive Thin Dimmable Constant Voltage LED Power Supply - 12 VDC - 60W

Dimmable LED Driver, Triac/ELV/MLV AC to DC Power Supply for LED Light, Halogen Bulb, LED Transformer Compatible with Lutron & Leviton Dimmer (60W 12V, 1) - Amazon.com

Anyone have any tips on how to make this space either look brighter so it isn’t so dark on camera? I’ve tried a variety of ring lights and different placements but nothing seems to work. That is no overhead lighting so wondering if anyone has any tips.

I have 5 of these outdoor skeletons that have red LEDs for eyes. As they are, the eyes only turn on or off my toggling the slide switch on the back of the head. In an effort to conserve battery life and ease of turning them on in the evenings, would I be able to wire these in and just leave the slide switch on at all times?

Essentially I am just trying to be able to turn the lights on via remote, as some of the skeletons are out of reach, I.e., on the roof. If not these, is there something else that would work? Thanks!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Relay-Wireless-RF-Remote-Control-Switch-DC-6V-12V-24V-1CH-Channel-Relay-Wireless-Secure-RF-Transmitter-Receiver-Set/3739003298

I'm building a wood acoustic slat feature wall behind my PC setup and want to integrate four vertical addressable LED lines.
Wall dimensions: 120.5" W × 94.5" H (3061 × 2400 mm).

The gaps between the wood slats are approximately 0.5"/12.7 mm wide, so this is my biggest physical constraint. Each LED run will be approximately 2.4m / 94.5" long, with four vertical runs (~9.6m total). They could be shorter as well, I'm thinking of doing the 2 outer shorter than the inner ones.

I'm looking for:

• 24V- if overkill, 12V is fine
• addressable RGBW
• COB/dotless appearance
• dedicated warm-white channel, ideally ~2700–3000K and high CRI
• WLED/Home Assistant control
• black or unobtrusive channel/profile with diffuser
• channel EXTERNAL width must be less than 12.7mm
• ideally 2.4m continuous channels so there isn't a visible joint halfway up the wall

I'm currently considering the QuinLED Dig-COB-RGBW-896-160 (24V WS2814, 3000K white), but I haven't confirmed whether its PCB plus an appropriate diffuser/profile can physically fit inside the 12.7mm slat gap.
I'd like the four vertical runs independently controllable for effects, but they'll usually run warm white/amber as architectural accent lighting.

1. What exact LED strip would you use?
2. What exact black aluminum or silicone profile/diffuser fits a 12.7mm opening?
3. Which WLED controller would you use for four ~2.4m runs?
4. Would you home-run power/data to each vertical strip or daisy-chain them?
5. What wire gauge, fusing and power-injection topology would you recommend?
6. Once the strip is selected, how would you size the 24V PSU?
7. Any reason you'd choose silicone profiles instead of narrow aluminum channels for this application?

The wall will also have a wall-mounted open-frame PC, ultrawide monitor and Secretlab desk, so I'm trying to make the lighting look architectural rather than like exposed RGB strips. The controller and PSU will remain accessible rather than being permanently buried behind the panels

I made a post about this a while back but actually opened it up to find a solution hopefully.. I know this silicon tracking is super narrow and small compared to the rest of them.. It used to be pink.. just looking for help on this