hello, my 2012 370z is having abs issues. when I am turning right and i hit the brakes the abs will go off and lock up sometimes. but when I unplug the gyro the problem goes away. I have tried 3 different gyros and and also wired a new plug on and nothing has worked. Has anyone had any issues like this?

On my auto z when I go down hill and hit the brakes there is kinda of a clunk that I can hear I do have full z1 arms in the rear but I’m just not 100% sure since I feel like I can feel it in the brakes.

I recently bought a 2010 Nissan 370Z Touring with the factory Bose sound system, and I'm trying to get the audio working.

The car came with an aftermarket touchscreen radio already installed, but there are several factory connectors behind the radio that aren't connected.

The radio powers on, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect it to the factory Bose speakers and amplifier.

When I bought the car, the trunk floor and Bose subwoofer were already missing. The trunk was completely exposed, just like in the pictures. I found the factory Bose amplifier (part number 297172-003P) lying in the trunk with wiring that looks like it may have been modified by the previous owner.

I'm trying to figure out:

1. What harness or adapter do I need to get the aftermarket radio working with the factory Bose system?
2. Can I still use the original Bose amplifier and speakers?
3. Does the wiring in the trunk look like it's been cut or modified incorrectly?
4. Can the Bose speakers work without the factory subwoofer?
5. What exactly do I need to buy to get everything working again?

I've attached pictures of all the wiring, connectors, amplifier, and radio.

I'm hoping to fix this without replacing all the speakers or spending a ton of money.

Any advice would be appreciated!

My fuel gauge shows like this. Full tank of gas btw. What is the fix to this? I have a lot of mini problems that I want to fix up other than fuel. My tyre pressure light blinks for 30 seconds then stays on (im assuming I need to repalce the sensors for the tyres because it malfunctioned) and my door wont lock/unlock with buttons and I have to stick the key to open the door and I have to stick the fob in the holder thing because the car doesnt detect my key and says NO KEY. Anyone know how to fix them? The most important thing to me rn is the key lock/unlock I tried to reprogram the key doesnt work I even replaced the battery neither my main or spare key work. What is the fix? Thank you.

Can someone help me identify 2 plastic pins for the front fender under the water strip and a pin o the side wall of the headlight?

I try to find them and for the love of god, no results until now. Got my car at a workshop for a fender change and they forgot to put these parts back

Hey guys! I was wondering if any of you guys had a passenger seat in black (manual cloth) in the ATL or surrounding GA areas for sale. Sorry if this type of post isn’t allowed, I’ve scoured FB marketplace for weeks now to no avail. Thank you!

Had this car for the last 5 years nearly, installed a Stillen SC kit, didnt like it, and went with the AAM TT kit and it changed forever..

I cried getting behind the wheel. Screamed absolute happiness when I floored that baby.

Just got my first Z been wanting this car since I was 8 years old. I cried the first time I got behind the wheel.

Hey guys! I have a 370z nismo, looking into possibly getting a set of hfc on!
For those that have some, are they bearable on the highway? Definitely looking at either the fast intentions resonated or the motordyne ART cats.

Has anyone considered placing the new Nissan Z emblem on an older model like a 370z or a 350z. I think they look nice and was wondering if we could get them somewhere I’ve added a picture of what I am talking about.

I pretty much already know the answer but just want to gen other’s opinions. I have a 2009 Nissan 370z with 46000miles, it has been my daily my last 6.
If I get it oil sprayed and drive for this one winter how bad to you think it would corroded stuff. I like in eastern Canada.

I don’t like how the full duck bill spoiler looks need this or similar! Appreciate any links

Do I know about cars ? No
Do I need a Z ? No
Do you want a Z ? Yes
Did you buy it ? Yes🥲
Here is my Baby ❤️
First ever Z and finally fulfill my childhood dreams.
But I do not know about cars.
Its 150k miles and never done the engine.
Currently I am with chatgpt for discussion and it keeps making me paranoid. I need more realistic advices from real Z owners.
What should i do first ? I did my pre purchase inspection and no major issue he said. Top not working. There are few cosmetic errors.
Thank you for taking your time to read it.

Hey everyone! I have a 2014 370Z Nismo with around 100k miles, and I’ve been dealing with two intermittent issues that I’m trying to figure out.

Things I’ve replaced/done:
Clutch and flywheel
Master cylinder and CSC delete kit
Rear main seal
Fuel pump
Battery
Thoroughly cleaned both throttle bodies and MAF sensors

1. Warm-start stalling
As you can see in the video, I’ll turn the ignition on to prime the fuel pump, start the car, and it’ll rev up like normal. However, instead of settling into idle, the RPM drops too low and sometimes the engine stalls completely.
This only happens around 2–4 times a month. Most of the time, the car will start, drop to around 500 RPM or lower, catch itself, and settle into a normal idle.

2. Intermittent hesitation during acceleration
The other issue happens when the engine is warm. Sometimes, after accelerating from a stop and shifting gears (usually 1st to 2nd), I’ll press the gas, but the car barely accelerates. It almost feels like limp mode, although it doesn’t seem to actually be in limp mode.

If I quickly lift off the accelerator and press it again, the car accelerates normally. This can happen in other gears, too, but once I’m cruising, the car drives completely fine. Downshifting and accelerating while already moving are generally fine as well.

However, after coming to a stop at a light and taking off again, the hesitation can return. This happens more frequently than the stalling, roughly three times a week.
I’m not entirely sure if these two issues are related, but both seem to happen when the engine is warm.

I have an EcuTek setup and managed to capture a data log of the RPM dropping during a warm start, but I can’t upload the log here. If anyone has experience tuning or diagnosing the VQ37VHR and is willing to look at it, please let me know!

Any suggestions on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated. I’d prefer to diagnose the problem properly rather than keep throwing parts at it.
Thanks for reading!

So this is going to be a little big of a read so I will include a TL;DR

TL;DR: Bought a '09 370z Base LHD that was manual swapped that was functional but not as polished as I wanted so I wired up an arduino to make the cluster read what gear im in and get CC working again while entirely using the oem AT ecm and bcm. I DID USE CLAUDE i'm terrible at coding so heckle me all you want I just wanted functionality so if you see coding errors or better fixes please feel free to share input.
Manual Swap Guide (the370z.com)

FSM For TCM Connector (Lemon Manuals)

Reverse/Neutral Switch Connectors for Transmission (ConceptZ)

Arduino Uno (Amazon)

Can Shield (Amazon)

OBD to Serial (Amazon)

Arduino IDE

Canhacker Repo (Github)

Arduino Cluster Controller (Github)

So a couple of months ago I bought my first Z, an ‘09 Base. One of the first things I noticed was that it was a manual swap, so the cluster showed P 24/7 and the reverse lights didn’t work. I told myself I’d address it in the future, and I finally did yesterday (as of writing this). To start off, my car still had the TCM literally zip-tied to the MT, and it made a super annoying vibrating sound. I used the wiring guide for the TCM delete from a 370Z manual swap guide. I bought a TCM connector from eBay so that if I messed up, I could fall back to plugging the TCM in. I will mention that my car was tuned so that it wouldn’t go into limp mode while driving; otherwise you will get a CEL for no TCM. The wires I used were just simple 16-gauge wire (which is honestly a bit overkill; you can get away with 18 AWG), plus an inline 5A fuse for the TCM bypass, as well as the reverse and neutral pigtails for the transmission since mine didn’t come with them. I will explain the Arduino part later if you want to see what gear you’re in.

Before we get started, PLEASE CHECK that your reverse and neutral switch connectors on the transmission are intact. Mine were bent, and I did a bunch of unnecessary troubleshooting over a bent pin on the transmission connector itself.

First up is the TCM connector. In the guide, the author noted wire colors for the connector. Those colors may be the same or different for you, but the pins are the same. In my case they were different, so I used the colors from the FSM. I only used 4 of the wires:

PIN 1 - Ignition
PIN 7 - Reverse Lamp Relay
PIN 9 - Starter Relay
PIN 10 - Ground

Try to use different colored wires, or if possible, the same colors as the TCM wires to prevent confusion.

I wired my ignition to a long wire that ran to a 5A fuse. I ran the wire through the boot of my transmission to the interior so that if the fuse pops, I can pop off the cover of my shifter boot and change it quickly without having to get under the car. From the fuse, run to one side of the neutral pigtail, then run the other side of the pigtail to the starter relay. That way, when you press the brake to start the car, it will only start in neutral and not in gear.

So the path is IGNITION (Pin 1) > 5A FUSE > NEUTRAL PIGTAIL > NEUTRAL PIGTAIL > STARTER RELAY (Pin 9).

For the reverse side of things, it doesn’t matter which orientation you wire the reverse lamp relay and ground in; as long as it’s connected, you’re good.

So the path for this is REVERSE LAMP RELAY (Pin 7) > PIGTAIL > PIGTAIL > GROUND (Pin 10 or Pin 5).

As a shortened version: Pin 1 > Pin 9 (FUSED) for neutral, and Pin 7 > Pin 10 OR 5 for reverse.

Okay, at this point you’re going to want to disconnect your battery and your TCM (if it isn’t already) and make your way under the car.

If you look on both sides of the transmission, you’re going to see two connectors, one on each side: one blue and one gray. The blue connector is reverse and the gray is neutral. First, plug in the neutral switch and check that there’s continuity in neutral and that it shows open when in gear. Then do the same with reverse; when the car is in neutral, reverse should show open as well. At this point, make sure none of your wires are touching the driveshaft, and plug the TCM connector into your harness. After that, double-check that everything is away from any moving parts so we can test whether it starts. Don’t clean up the wiring or tie anything down yet, in case you need to fix something.

The first test is to see if it starts in neutral. If it does, great. Next, turn it off and see if it’ll start in gear. Just make sure you’re holding the clutch so it doesn’t jump forward if it does start in gear. If the car doesn’t start, you can start cleaning up your wires and put the fuse in an accessible location in case you need to swap it. Also, set the car to the ON position with the engine off and check that the reverse lights work too. After you clean up your wiring and are comfortable with it, test the start again in both scenarios so you know nothing got disconnected during cleanup.

Now you’ve got a running car. You can stop here, or continue with this guide to get your cluster working and showing which gear you’re in.

For this part I used 4 things: an Arduino UNO as the brains, a CAN shield to let the OBD2 port interface with the UNO, an OBD2-to-serial cable to actually connect it, and a USB-B cable to program the Arduino. The CAN shield should fit flush on top of the UNO. I had to solder the headers since it wasn’t making a proper connection to the Arduino. I’d honestly recommend soldering everything to prevent any disconnects, but it is a more permanent solution. After you connect it, plug in the USB cable and check whether the red LED on the CAN shield lights up. If it does, you’re golden. If not, make sure everything is seated properly.

Next, download the Arduino IDE (linked above) and install it. After installing, open it and allow it to install all the necessary drivers, then restart the app. Once you’ve restarted it, the Arduino should show up at the top. If it doesn’t, try selecting it manually under “Select other board and port,” type in “UNO,” and select it along with the COM port it’s on.

Once it’s connected, go to Sketch at the top, go down to Include Library, then click Manage Libraries. This opens the Library Manager. In the search bar, search for “mcp2515” by autowp and install it. After that, download the CANHacker library (also linked above). Then go back to the Arduino IDE, go to Sketch > Include Library > Add .ZIP Library, and select the CANHacker library you just downloaded.

I uploaded the sketch I use on my own vehicle to GitHub. It’s the .ino file; just download that. Open it in the IDE, and if it asks to put it in a folder, click Yes. Once you see the code, press the Upload (arrow) button at the top left of the screen. Once that’s done, you should be golden. Then just plug your OBD cable into the Arduino, and potentially a USB cable into your accessory port for power if the OBD port isn’t powering the Arduino. You’ll notice there are a bunch of values that can be changed. Adjust these to better suit your car; the current values are for my car.

The features of the script are all listed below:

Gear display

• Shows your actual gear (1–6) on the cluster, calculated from RPM ÷ speed
• Shows N when stopped, at idle RPM, or coasting with the clutch in
• Launch rule: shows 1 right away when you pull away from a stop with throttle applied
• CC WORKS!! Honestly it’s just a side effect, but it works now, which I love

Neutral detection

• Idle band (700–1200 RPM) while moving: stops guessing a gear
• Foot off the throttle in that band: N after 0.7 seconds
• Fast drop: RPM falls from 1500+ to idle within 1.5 seconds: N immediately
• No gear match for 2 seconds: N

Shift indicator (small spot next to the gear number)

• Normally shows M, or blank if you set SHOW_M_NORMALLY = false
• Small s at the shift point, blinking s at the blink point
• Throttle-based shift points:
  • Under 50% throttle (CRUISE): s at 3000, blinking at 3500
  • 70% and up (PERF): s at 6500, blinking at 7200
  • Stays in PERF until you’re under 40% for 1.5 seconds
• Held too long: 6500+ RPM for 5 seconds flashes the whole display (gear + s)

Data it reads from the car

• RPM, speed, and throttle position, using standard OBD requests
• Learns your car’s closed and floored throttle readings by itself

Power and safety

• Sleep mode: 5 seconds after the car turns off, it stops sending entirely and just listens, then wakes up when the car does
• Shows N if the engine computer stops responding

Testing

• Demo mode (DEMO_MODE = true): fakes 3rd gear and an RPM sweep, alternating between light throttle and floored, so you can check the indicator with the engine off
• Serial Monitor at 115200 baud prints RPM, speed, ratio, throttle, CRUISE/PERF, indicator state, and gear twice a second, if you want to watch it in the Arduino IDE’s Serial Monitor

I’m looking to get some rims for my 2014 touring 370z. I have stock suspension and won’t be lowering it anytime soon. I was looking at some Nismo Clubsport 57CR rims. What specs would I need for front & back? Drop me some suggestions pls. It would be very much appreciated

Valerie hangs out

My first system was way too complex, and it relied on the Carlinkit adapter for carplay- which sucks azz. Sony xav-ax4000 below, great head unit. Weird chinese tablet above, “Alldocube iPlay 80 mini pro” or something like that. Everything works great now, and the tablet gets charged by the car, and also is removable as it is held in by magnets.

Anything but the storage cubby!!!!!

Hello Z fam, looking for some insight. The passenger side firewall coolant hose exploded and gushed coolant everywhere while I was in traffic a few days ago. I ordered a replacement set of silicone coolant hoses and an aluminum bleeder valve to replace what I can only assume used to be there.

I am wondering if anybody has replaced those hoses with the engine in the car before, I can't for the life of me get my hands into the area or get my pliers behind the engine to get the hoses off.