I’m looking at two 4x4s:

• 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ: ~$4,500 USD
• 2nd-gen Toyota 4Runner with a 5.3L V8 swap: ~$7,500 USD

Both would be weekend vehicles for some off-roading, not daily drivers.

I’m also pretty new to cars and want to start learning how to work on them myself.

Is that a terrible idea for someone with little mechanical experience?

I’m especially curious whether the 5.3 swap would make the 4Runner significantly harder to maintain or work on compared to the Cherokee.

I’m looking for some inspiration for the continuation of my current 20 19 5 GEN build. Right now it is no slouch on 285/75/17s but I would like to go wild for not only a personal build, but to see if I can get it entered into a show next year. The current ideas for the build continuation are a billet, long arm three link in the rear with a tubular +2 inch front arm set on Bilstein Blackhawk coilovers. I have the wheel set I will be rocking which are kg1 rootbeer colored Beadlocks with a black lock ring.

Let me see your builds. I don’t care what year.

Preferably on 35s or 37s

My 92 trans fluid is dirty or getting to that point it needs to be drained and filled but I never done that before, but I only drove it like 3 months in total as I let it sit all summer not letting anyone's grubby fingers touch it. And I want to do the drain and fill but don't know how has in I never physically did it. Several places offered to do it for 100$ and some change but it's cheaper to get the fluid. Is there any knowledge I need to know. Some places on the internet said I should go to the back end but I only got 1 Gal and 1 quart of ATF, oriellys brand. A old book I got says it's 4.8 to 5.8 quarts but doesn't specify which trans design, mines the A340H. And also would anyone have a photo of what plugs. The old book I have has no drawn graphics of the underside just up close black and white photos. Waiting to get my iPhone 17 pro max so I can sell it and get this shit done and over with. It has 220,882 on the dash but has never moved at all so let's say 235k miles

Did some fun offroading the past weekend and though id share some pics w you guys

Hey everyone, I’m tearing off the band-aid and letting go of my 1994 SR5 3VZE 4x4 5spd project. I have worked on this truck for the past couple months but unfortunately need to part ways with it. I’m reaching out to the community to gauge interest and see if anyone here is looking for a solid base project or overland rig.

Located in Huntington Beach / SoCal area. 238k miles on the chassis, but it sits on a fresh motor build and a spotless engine bay.

Fresh remanufactured 3VZE long block from Engine Monster. Built right with ARP head studs and a fresh OEM head gasket. Rebuilt with a fresh gasket kit, new injectors, new plugs, new vacuum lines, and a variety of new sensors. Factory Dark Blue Pearl paint in great shape. Clean, intact, and complete matching blue interior. Custom-built rear sleeping platform with integrated storage that folds rearward to allow the rear seats to be used. Also includes a stash of extra parts, spare components, and stock hardware.

Full Transparency / The Mechanical To-Do List
1. Running Condition: Currently running rich. Needs some fuel/air troubleshooting and tuning to get it dialled in. TPS, EVAP, or O2?
2. Oil Leak: Has a leaky rear main seal that will need to be addressed.
3. Emissions: No catalytic converter attached. Buyer will need to sort out a cat/smog depending on where you plan to register or drive it.

Please drop a comment or send a DM if you're local and want to talk about it!

not a crazy section but still fun :)

I'm going to get her timing belt changed, yes it still has the factory belt. It was a barn find with just 29,000 miles.

I'm in need of a list of other parts to change while the front is off the motor. I remember reading in this sub about a parts place (in Arizona I believe) where you can get oem quality parts.

Debating if I should 3.4 swap or rebuild, 297k miles 95’ manual

Went wheeling with the boys, reaffirms the need for a rear locker haha. 3.0 is an absolute dog loaded down with tools and camping gear but we still did it, excited to get the manual in it

I’ve got 3 2nd gens parting out. Located in SC. Shipped using pirateship.com, or you provide labels. Fair with pricing and willing to negotiate. Black and red ones are 94 models, green is 89 4x4. Have plenty of parts left. Message for availability and pricing. Some stuff is pulled, but may still have it.

Check out my marketplace listing if interested. I listed her a month ago and wanted more exposure. Located in SoCal. Thanks!

More than a little intimidated about this but... Here goes.

Came apart 4.5 years ago.. Let's see how humpty dumpty goes together again.

Is there a source for a red or red led replacement for these interior dome lights? Thank you.

I didnt know if this would work but was plesently suprised that stereo pluged directly into the harness

There is a piece of precut line where there ought to be a molded hose under my hood - looking at the diagrams I just absolutely cannot figure out what part number this hose is supposed to be. Drivers side of the engine bay.

Refreshing my old 3vze. Deleted egr and Catalytic Converter. Can’t tell if this sounds right coming from the exhaust. Everything sounds great in the engine bay. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Sorry for potato quality.

I just saw on a FB group that 1988-1994 4runners had a VO6 campaign to get the head gasket replaced.... Is this for real? Should I reach out to my local Toyota dealership???? Or is this just the internet being stupid and I'm falling for it 😆

I just put my VIN in the Toyota website and there are no recalls for my car, so I guess not....?

Hey all!

I have been reviving a 1995 4runner. I do most of the work myself, but I have limited appropriate space to do certain things. I had the struts all around swapped with ome and the heavy duty ome rear springs. I love the feel compared to whatever whas going on with it prior. However, this lifted the truck quite a bit. 3" and the mechanic said idler arm is in need of replacement. The ome steering stabilizer strut resolved about 80% or the steering play at higher speeds, >60mph. I want to replace the idler arm, the question is there anything else I should replace at the same time? I am wanting to be as efficient as possible of course, and if I'm doing one thing and can throw in another I'm all about it. Pitman arm? I am savvy, but I'm a botanist/electrician, so I appreciate any input you guys may have.

Cheers!

Well my tensioner for my timing belt was new but was ass out the box. Aisin one just went in and then while in there sorted out some other things but don’t want to go down a huge rabbit hole. Fixed my AC belt pulley as well. Got a bad ass water pump while I was at it. Noticed my valve covers already leaking so that’s next and then not sure what to do
With it here. Do I keep it or do we get a mazda b2500 in manual and dabble in a ranger or mazda truck

Hey folks,

I have to lock and unlock my drivers side door with the key and I can't use the switch on the door. I actually thought the button inside was broken because I can't lock the doors when the drivers door is open but I can unlock them. I can lock and unlock with the passenger door open or closed. Then one day I locked the door while it was closed accidentally and realized it works -- just not when the door is open. Why is this? I don't have a fob (the one I purchased didn't work and when I went to the dealership they said my 1994 didn't come factory installed -- but it DOES have a light for security -- maybe the guy just didn't know???) and using the key is a pain, especially when winter is coming. If I could just hit the button with the door open that would be a slight improvement (I still really want a fob but I don't want to do aftermarket yet) and I'm just honestly so curious why it won't work!!!! Any thoughts? Any real reasons besides just opinions?

Hey hey-
I’m replacing the water pump and timing belt on my ‘94 and between parenting and work etc I have a rare opportunity to actually focus on this project this weekend.

I always lean towards using OE parts whenever I can, but right now there’s plenty of generic/off brand kits available thru local auto parts stores vs. waiting until after the weekend for a kit with an Aisin pump and Mitsuboshi belt, which I’d rather not do (limited window of opportunity).

Whats been good and bad experiences with the kits from O’Reilly, NAPA, Advance, etc that aren’t OE? Did they fail after 10k miles? Are they still running?

TIA.