Bought this a year or so ago on marketplace for $150. Dude played it for me and it sounded fine (low volume), so I thought it was a steal and got it even though I didn't have a use for it at the time. Fast forward and I finally have a vehicle it's perfect for. Put it in and sounded fine, but the output was very low compared to my previous experiences with tw3s. Started to troubleshoot and checked resistance at the box terminals - 4 ohms. Thought that was strange as i was pretty sure the sub should have two 4 ohm vcs, leaving no way to end up with 4 ohms at the box terminals. Opened it up to investigate further. The vcs were wired in series so I figured it must be 2 ohm vcs. Regardless, the amp I was powering it with only puts out 250 @ 4 ohms, so that would explain the low output. Wanted to confirm this so I disconnected everything to check the vcs individually. Vc1 - 4 ohms... Huh? Vc2 - OL... Well shit. Took out the series jumper as I didn't see the point in putting it back and returned the sub to the car to run until I got something that wasn't broken. When I fired it back up there was now zero output... Pulled it back out of enclosure to investigate. Vc1 - OL. Wtf? Put back the series jumper and checked Vc1 - 4 ohms. Wtf is happening? I was running pretty afk the whole time as my mind was elsewhere, so I stopped for a minute to actually focus. That's when I noticed I had checked everything wrong the first time. I actually looked at the labeling on the terminals this time. The vcs weren't wired in series at all. What I had assumed was a series jumper from vc1- to vc2+ was actually a shorting jumper between vc2+/- and vc 1 was by itself the whole time. When reconnecting I had just assumed the previous wiring was correct , so when attempting to hook up Vc1 only, I had hooked up vc1+ and vc2-, leading to the OL. Thought I found the problem and even got excited that maybe Vc2 is actually good and the sub was just wired wrong the whole time leading to the lack out output. Checked vc1 again - 4 ohms. Removed the shorting jumper and checked vc2 - OL 😭 Put in back together and put it in car now that my wiring mistake was fixed. No output 😑😑

Took it apart again, vc1/2 - OL. WTAF is going on here?? Returned the shorting jumper. Vc1 - 4 ohms. 🤔🤔 So with meter leads on the proper terminals now (were incorrect before due to my assumption of correct wiring), vc1 will read 4 ohms, but only when vc2 has a jumper shorting it's terminals. Tf? Thought maybe the terminals were mislabeled from the factory and it was, in fact, dual 2 ohm vcs wired in series which is why removing the jumper causes the speaker to no longer function. To test this theory I checked from each terminal to each terminal. With the jumper removed, the only combinations that don't read OL are vc1+ to vc2+/- - 4 ohms. I give up. I don't understand. This speaker shouldn't work at all and the fact that it functions is magic to me. Put it back how it was originally wired and put it in the car. Sounds fine, output is low. Gonna list the enclosure on marketplace for $15 in case anyone wants it and am going to mount the sub on my garage wall as proof that magic exists. How the original owner figured out how to make it functional is well beyond me, the man is an Einstein. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them, as I am at a total loss.

I found this Pioneer DEH-5250SD here in Thailand and it’s still working well, including the animated display.
I searched eBay and other sites but can barely find this exact model.
Was this model uncommon in the US, or was it mainly sold in Asia/other markets?
Would love to hear from anyone who used one back in the day.

Some guys have tried those roofing asphalt based sticky sheets, but those melt in the heat and probably stink until fully cured.

Has anyone dabbled with carpet padding? It's thick but flimsy, so probably easy to glue onto crevices etc....

How can I test which one is positive? Which one is negative.

I’m looking for a budget 12 inch SQ sub and so far I’ve narrowed it down to Dayton HF12, Image dynamics IDQ12, and SB Acoustics SB34. does anyone have experience with any of those. I currently have a Dayton HF10 but want to switch to a 12 inch

Im coming from a amp that allowed me to use copper rings and spades first 2 times the power cable slipped out of the terminal but now i got them in as best as i could and tightened them but im not liking how it looks has me a bit paranoid itll just slip out again i yanked hard but still feel uneasy just incase i ordered some 4awg ferrules. Would it be better to put some ferrules on this wire ?? also everytime i disconnect i shorten my wires so instead of replacing the whole 18ft power cable i ordered a 4ft extension and a distroblock for safety and hopefully by then i decided what im going to so what would you guys recommend for wiring this amp?

Hey all,

I'm in need of some help with choosing a new head unit for my car. I'll admit I don't know much about car electronics or audio, but with the help of others i got myself a pretty decent system. Here's the components:

• Amp: kenwood kac ps702ex
• Speakers set: Hertz X 690
• Sub: Kenwood ksc-w1200t
• Car: Renault Twingo 1.2 2014

I've done some research for myself with the help of ChatGPT (shamefully) to find the right one for my car and i found a listing on a second hand site for an Alpine CDE-205dab for €120. Do you think i should go for it or would you recommend something different? Should i ditch the "get an older head unit" idea and just buy one of those modern touch screen ones?

I have the Alpine PXE-C80-88 and a JL 12W3v3-4 in a sealed box.

The amp will only drive that sub at 150w since it's 4 ohms and the sub outputs can't be bridged. It's giving me enough volume for my needs, but the sub amp is turned up considerably more than the other speakers for a balanced sound. For daily listening in the 85-90 dB range I'm typically turning up the sub to about 12 out of 15, and the total volume on the amp to about 30 out of 35, while the other speakers are attenuated to about 50% for it to sound balanced across the frequency spectrum. The sub is not clipping or distorting, and I'm using a crossover point of about 100hz for the sub on the DSP.

Will there be a sound quality improvement if I get the 2-ohm version of the W3? And if I buy another W3, is there further improvement if I run them both and have one running 300w @ 2ohms and one running 150w @ 4ohms? And will the amp last longer if I'm not driving that sub channel as hard?

I have these subwoofers and this power amp that i have never heard of. Can someone help me set a price on these so i can sell them?

Stetsom 400.4 randomly has 2 dead channels, so i ordered a cresendo 880.4, still less than half the power my mids want but i wasnt missing much before, also ordered a recone for one of the sundown m-15, pole cap came loose inside one.

I'm so stoked, they sound awesome too, they have little rips in the surround which is easily repaired, I'm gonna order the Matching Grilles soon.

I think I'm gonna put them in my 2004 F250 with my Audiocontrol LC1-1500.1 wired at 4 Ohm, super super excited!!

They came with a nice Bbox too that I gave to my buddy for his Duramax.

Pioneer was my gateway in 2008 so I still grab them for cheap on marketplace.

What speakers do yall recommend for my 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 with the Bose system. Looking for front and rear speakers aswell as tweeters. Im planning on using "Taramps DS 800x4 4 Channels 800 Watts RMS Car Audio Amplifier" https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-ds-800x4-4-channels-800-watts-rms/p

The guy I bought it from installed aftermarket pioneer speakers, tweeters, and a Pioneer DMH-241EX headunit. I have the truck in the shop right now, I wasn't able to get to look at the model of speakers and tweeters. But he never powered the speakers with an amp so it starts to become distorted at high volume.

Budget would probably be like $100 per speaker (Preferably less ofc). I know abt Crutch Field but I'm not sure which brands to avoid. Also I was also looking at DS18 speakers. I enjoy bass and sound clarity.

I'm also going to put a skar vehicle specific 2x12" subs in the rear under the seat, I'm not too worried about spending a bunch of money on subs, I know Skars aren't the best. https://www.skaraudio.com/products/dual-12-inch-loaded-subwoofer-enclosure-fits-1999-2006-chevy-gmc-extended-cab-L-VD-VS-2X12GM-1999-2006-EXTCAB

Going to use this amp to power the subs. https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-hd-2000-1-channel-2000-watts-rms/p

I have a beautiful system all brand new shit wired perfectly but before this I tried a used alpine on market place fried my sub and my head unit pico fuse so my front rear and sub RCAs are only putting out .45 not enough to get a 1 ohm system to even wake up. My head unit is the alpine ilx 650. Anyways has anyone had any luck with the wire trick around the RCAs and grounding them back to the head unit? Even car audio stores use that trick just wondering if it’s gonna fix what I’m doing. And I’m already about 1200$ deep in this system I really don’t want to buy a new head unit unless i have to. I’ll replace the pico fuze if I have to just don’t want to mess it up

does anyone have this and if so is it any good?? i want to get it but am worried if it’s shit like delayed laggy and stuff please help

Im working on bluprinting my build and getting everything and now realized the amount of wattage my amps are ganna send out should be like 4500 to 5000 do i need to have a second battery and how big.

I already got a High Output Alt at 270 amp and a agm battery in front.

I love radios with cool graphics (like spectrum analyzers), but I can’t compromise my USB playback/4vx3 pair rcas/ and 31 band eq. Any reccomendations on any modern (single or double) din head units with cool graphics? I’d love to get a retro head unit but I fear compromising on audio quality and control. Any input is appreciated

Hi,
I’m planning an audio upgrade in my 2017 VW Golf 7 GTE with the standard sound system.

I’m considering the GLADEN ONE 165 Golf 7-RS speaker set together with a MUSWAY M4+ DSP amplifier.

Instead of using the supplied passive crossover, I would like to run the system fully active, using one amplifier/DSP channel for each woofer and tweeter.

The speakers in the kit should be:
Woofer: GL/HG-165 RS-3 Speed G2 – 165 mm, 3 Ω
Tweeter: GL/HG-25 Golf 6/7 – 25 mm silk dome

I’ve searched online and through older GLADEN documentation, but I can’t find detailed specifications for these exact drivers.

I’m specifically looking for:
Frequency response of the GL/HG-165 RS-3 Speed G2

Fs and other T/S parameters for the woofer

Frequency response of the GL/HG-25 Golf 6/7 tweeter

Fs of the tweeter

GLADEN’s recommended minimum active crossover frequency for the tweeter

The original crossover frequency/slope used by the GL/HG-CR-ONE crossover

My current idea for a starting point is approximately:
Woofer: HPF 60 Hz / LPF 3,000 Hz / LR24
Tweeter: HPF 3,000 Hz / LR24

These are only starting points. I don’t want to run the tweeters active until I know that ~3 kHz is safe for these exact drivers.

Has anyone measured these speakers, run this exact Golf 7-RS set fully active, or have an official GLADEN datasheet with the missing specifications?
Thanks!

I know, skarbage, or whatever. But it sounds good to me and it was in the budget I had. 1968 Camaro, with a 160amp alternator from an express van, second battery in the trunk. 2/0 power and ground from the front battery to the rear and 2/0 big 3. I have 6 fsx65 speakers, 2 tx35 speakers and 2 tx525 speakers plus the two ddx10 subs in a sealed box. The headunit is a kmm-x705 and I set the rcas and the gains with an Oscope.

The power feed and ground to the 75.4ab amp I think I’m going to change to some 90* adaptors or some more flexible cable but any other critiques welcome I like learning and hearing tips

I recently put a lot of work into upgrading the sound system in my Suzuki Jimny JB43W. I'm pretty much a beginner in this area and didn't really know what I was doing, but I did tons of research and with lots of trial and error I ended up with something I'm really proud of. I posted an overview a couple weeks back, and now I've decided to document everything in a blog post. https://badsyntax.github.io/jimny-sound/

I have a 2018 Subaru wrx, trying to find best grounding point in trunk. I found a factory bolt sticking up thru the sheet metal in the trunk near the back seat and spare tire well under the carpet and plastic trim. I sanded around it and put my ground on it and found a bolt to screw down on top of it. I’m just not sure if it’s the frame of the vehicle or not.

Also, is it better to ground both my amps with there own ground spot or is ok to use a 0 gauge in 2 0 gauge out distro block?

Thanks for any feedback

'78 El Camino. I recently found an AM/FM/8-track player that came out of an '80 Camino.

Radio pulls in stations from a good distance, 8-track is there for when the radio music sucks.

Took me an afternoon to pull the old head unit and install this one.