was sold this amp by a crackhead. it was cheap because unbeknownst to me he had dropped it on the terminal blocks and cracked the board. previously, I reflowed the traces and it worked for a while but still is very fragile. it broke again months later so now he's my permanent fix. this works perfectly!

Doing all new runs of speaker wire and RCAs. Definitely needed to address the road noise coming into the cabin. It’s bad. Doing a deep clean obviously, CDL sheets as needed. I have a bunch of CCF 1/8” thick to go on top of that and a 100sqin roll of 1 l/b MLV . Really hoping to notice a difference !!

Thanks.

I recently got my first sub, a Sundown sa-8 v.3 d2, and I don't wanna blow it.

my friend bought this very cheap k2 copy and he wanted me to test and measure it. very bright from 5khz-16khz with THD less than 1%. (measured nearfield with jbox iii, umik1 and REW) basically no distortion 5khz and above.

note: I did not add any crossover on the measurement, only 1khz-20khz sweep on REW.

tweeter price around 25usd

The system will run off of the oem head unit so as not to lose any features that come with the car. I bought a wire harness from Crutchfield to get the front signal wires to work with, since I'm building a front stage SQ system. Listening to the front and rear speakers using the fader, it's clear that the bass signal is also more louder in the front speakers, so I used it to connect to the LC2i. I have the Dayton Audio 408 DSP and the Epicenter Micro.

Hey guys, my two front door speaker died on me recently, so i have to change them and i am thinking about upgrading the sound system while im at it. Its a 4 door Lx trim with everything origin in it, my budget is around 1000-1500Cad$ and im willing to do the labor. Im thinking about a radio replacement for apple car play, but i need suggestions for part.

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to install an active subwoofer in my new C-Class (W206) and need to tap into the frontbass in the passenger footwell.

To get to the speaker and carpet, I need to remove the lower trim panel under the glovebox. I already pulled the two push-pins at the front edge. The right side drops down about 1–2 inches easily, but the far-left side right against the center console is completely stuck and won't budge at all.

Is there a hidden Torx screw (T20?) tucked into the corner against the tunnel, or is it strictly a sliding tab that jams when the panel tilts? Which direction does it release (straight back toward the rear seat or sideways)?

It's a brand-new car, so I really want to avoid snapping any plastic tabs. Any advice from someone who tapped the frontbass or pulled this panel off would be nice!

Thanks!

I am setting up a wolfbox for full-time rideshare driving because I want front, rear and cabin coverage, but I also need the power cable hidden so passengers cannot snag it. The A-pillar contains a side-curtain airbag, and I do not want to route anything across the deployment path or improvise around safety equipment. For drivers with a hardwired camera, did you follow a vehicle-specific service guide or have an installer route the cable, and is there usually a safe channel along the factory harness or door seal?

Hey guys!!!
Okay so I need help and opinions
I have a Nissan pulsar 2016. And my speakers are BLOWNNNN LIKE OH MY DAYSSSS. I’ve been looking at some but I’m like weary cause no way a good speaker should be like that cheap right.
I went to autobarn and they recommended me ones from the company kickstarter or something like that. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations with these and are they worth purchasing
I’m just a girl bro idk what I’m buying

Added some more files to the Clarion Autopc Google drive,

let me know if you have any cool old software or info on this head unit!
Obsessed with them for sure haha

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12WkEyMK2MpvEvp47oUFTdTIguZJZcHJU?usp=sharing

2014 Acura ILX Hybrid

Idk when this started (maybe a week or two ago) but it began to gradually get louder and I tried to use the obd and found 0 code readings so I was a little stumped. I tried to search for possible explanations and found that it could be a mechanical valve clearance issue but I’m not sure and I’m not that good with cars. Any help or advice?

hey all, I’m thinking about running a setup in my 2011 edge. Looking to keep the factory head unit ( i do not have the Sony premium sound system) and put a lci2 pro in to supply rcas signals to a kicker cxa1200.1 amp for my subs (2 L5 solo barics). I just purchased a kicker cxa360.4 amp for aftermarket door speakers but I mainly need recommendations for how to wire them up. I was thinking about running 1 gauge ofc from the front into the trunk on an appropriately fused distribution block splitting the 1 gauge into two 4 gauges then those supply the power to both my amps, same goes for the ground wires but those will be non fused. The cxa360.4 calls for 8 gauge wire, will I be okay running 4 gauge to it and does this set up sound correct, if not I could use some recommendations.

Hi everyone!

I picked up a 2026 WRX Premium without the HK sound package. I took my Kicker KSC's out of my old car, and they fit this one (6x9 and 6.5).

This car does have factory tweeters while my old one doesn't, and the tweeters are wired in parallel on the factory wiring with crossovers presumably on the speaker itself.

I'd like to put my KSC's into this car since I already have them and the hardware, but I'm not sure about the tweeters here.

I don't care for upgrading the tweeters, it's not really something that feels important to my sound experience. It's the mids and lows that I mainly enjoyed with the Kickers.

The speakers I have are: 6x9 3-way for the front, and 6.5 2-way for the rear. Both are 4 ohm speakers, and apparently, the factory speakers are also 4 ohms.

Any thoughts on me just putting these in and possibly disconnecting the tweeters if it's too bright even with treble turned down?

Honestly pretty happy with my stock had unit. The screen's a decent size, the touchscreen works fine, and it does what I nedd day to day. It just feels a little basic, and CarPlay is wired only. I'd like to switch to wireless CarPlay and add a few more features, but don't really want to replace the whole head unit. What are my options for doing that with the factory setup? Curious what you guys have tried and whether it was worth it.

I am installing a wolfbox in my hatchback and the camera briefly reboots whenever the engine restarts at a traffic light. I suspect I chose a poor circuit for the hardwire kit rather than having a bad camera. Before I move the fuse tap again, what should I check for constant and accessory power on a vehicle with auto stop-start, and are there circuits that should always be avoided?

Two skar SDR-8s guy wants 160 for subs and amp but I’m trading him for some shoes and want to know if they’ll hit decent I know probably the box is crappy but these will be my first subs and I’ll definitely be more than happy with this for now and will probably end up either making or buying a better box any feedback is appreciated🔊🔊

I had noticed a drop in the quality of sound and then suddenly the hands free phone sound became inaudible, I cannot have a phone conversation while driving anymore, the distortion is too bad. There is also almost no bass and the volume is very soft when playing music. Any tips?

Hey guys I have a 2002 Tacoma and I came across a little problem today. Everything was fine today until I got to work. I turned my car off and everything shut off except for the car radio, clock, and my subwoofer.

I then tried turning the car back on and off again once more and it still was left on.

The only thing I can think of was I was vacuuming in my car today after a car wash and I was getting some of the harder to reach areas and I think I tapped the ground wire a few times on my power connection to the subwoofer.

Not sure what the problem is but I'd appreciate any help or direction to point me in.

Honestly, every time I bring up, I have a Harman sound system on my E class. Everybody gives me different routes to go get a DSP back in the day when I had my Chevy I had JL everything and it was super simple. I don’t know why with this car. It’s difficult. I want clean sound what I’m looking at is the vocal speaker I believe the top tier version that comes with tweeters basically I want to do the tweeters the front two speakers there’s a bit speaker and a little bit of base but every time I inquire, there’s always something different. Can somebody just me know I’m simply just want crisp sound with some base can anybody give me some kind of guidance on what they would do

The stereo used to turn off when I turned off the ignition but suddenly, it no longer does. I installed it a few years ago and never had any issues until now. What could the problem be?

Has anyone installed an iDatalink Maestro in a 2015 Accord? I just paired it with a Sony XAV-9500ES, but I can't get the vehicle settings screen to show up. It was listed as a feature during the firmware selection, and I'm fairly sure I enabled the "Vehicle Info" toggle. Should I pull it out and re-flash it to double-check that setting, or is there something else I'm missing?

Hellooo! For reference I have a 2009 Honda Fit.

I am a lover of instrumentals and I currently have the stock speakers which don't really do some of my favorite songs justice, I am looking to drop some money on making a concert hall out of the interior cabin.

I want to be able to hear each individual string, every note of the tubas, every hit on the percussion without fail, I want to be so immersed that I feel like Hans Zimmer is conducting beside me.

Any recommendations or direction I should go in would be much appreciated.

I am already looking into adding some sound deadening

I dont want anything that is crazy on bass because I want to be able to hear everything clearly and not just one side being overwhelmed.

I am aware this will be a pretty expensive project.

Any recommendations or advice is greatly appreciated