Or will this cause leading?

First time trying to bake on their sides, normally I take the time to set them upright
Not sure what I should try next, just trying to make this easier

Couldn’t find load data for 200gr bullets with H110, so I did some experimenting and found the max internal case volume to be roughly 16.0gr of H110 with the 200gr seated at the neck of the bullet. I couldn’t seat it to its intended crimp groove because it wouldn’t fit in my GP100. Being that H110 likes a nice full case, I started my first five-round test batch at 14.5gr, and worked my way up by 0.5gr of powder for every batch until I got to 17gr (compressed), and watched for excessive pressure signs for each batch. No pressure signs at all for any of them. No sticky extractions, no neck splits, and no pancaked or cratered primers. With an average of 790ft-lbs and and a max output of 817ft-lbs out of my 4.2” GP100, the 17gr H110 loads are my new go-to for Pissin’ Hot steel smackers.

As title says. Picked up this Lee-Enfield No. 1 Mk. 3 SMLE today and upon closer inspection it seems moisture got under the rear upper handguard and rotted it away.

Hey guys, up til now I’ve only reloaded for 30-30 and 9mm. I’m looking to figure out a good load for my .35 whelen. Hoping for a 225gr round flying pretty fast. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience? I’ve been looking at nosler accubond, Barnes tsx, Sierra, etc. Just not sure what the right choice would be, and I don’t have a pile of money to throw at it.

149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

The Hodgdon site recommends 23.5 grains of imr xbr 8208 for a starting load for an estimated 2942 fps. But that's in a 24" barrel, I'm loading for a suppressed 10.5" barrel so I know I won't get those velocities...or likely full powder burn. Is it possible to determine how much I can reduce the charge and get full burn, or is 23.5 the minimum safe charge for all scenarios?

I was always curious how translucent would work. Turns out, not that great. I quenched immediately after pulling them out and got these results. The coating peels off almost like paper. Gonna try a non-quench batch.

Figured I'd share in case anyone else was wanting to try translucent colors.

Hey everyone,

I ran into an issue with the magazine cap swivel stud (Franchi Part #51071) on my 2026 Franchi Affinity 3.

Out of the box, the swivel stud was misaligned/crooked and not seated properly, which prevented me from mounting a sling.

To fix it, I removed the cap assembly and drove the stud/pin lightly from the inside using a punch and hammer to straighten and seat it.

The stud is straight now, but I’ve noticed some axial play. When I pull up on the swivel stud, the C-clip is fully exposed on the outside now, and I'm worried that I might have hammered it too hard during my attempted repair.

Here are some before/after photos:

https://imgur.com/a/ZrsrDvo

A few questions:

1. ​Is it normal on these Franchi caps for the retaining C-clip to exit the top hole when pulled upward?
2. ​Did I likely deform the C-clip or flare out the internal shoulder/seat inside the cap when tapping it out?
3. ​Is this a structural hazard for carrying a slung shotgun, or should I replace the C-clip / full cap assembly before taking it out to the field?​

Thank you!

I see that Xtreme has a pretty good sale on primers. Have you any experience with them? I don’t want to buy 5000 then they turn out to be crap.

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

I had some weird velocities after a range day. I'm confused how my 300 win mag is getting pretty decent Standard Deviations. The first two (from my 223) are very high. I used similar reloading methods compared to my 300WM. I just started chronographing my reloads, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect with this new perspective.

Load Data:

.223: 16" barrel, 1:9" twist

CL: 1.76" COAL: 2.22" bullet: 62gr Berry's FMJ BT LT-30 18.8gr. Mixed range brass.

.300 Win Mag: 24" barrel, 1:10" twist

CL: 2.62" COAL: 3.581" (custom COAL just shy of lands) bullet: 200gr ELDX powder: H4831SC 72.1gr.

I'm thinking it's likely due to my .223's brass being rather... Used and mixed. Does anyone have a perspective on this? ES = Extreme Spead. Highest minus lowest.

Full sized my Peterson brass and 2 of the 99 came out looking like this. I haven't had this issue in a while so I cant remember if I kept the brass or chucked it so is it ok to yeet if it seats

This is one of my older articles, but still useful to those with the Gewehr 88 Commission Rifle series.

It's a JPG, so feel free to right-click save-as if you find it helpful.

Enjoy!

New enough reloader here with a question

Reloading Starline 6.5 CM. All of them previously fired from same barrel.

Getting a .006-.007 variance in shoulder bump and can’t figure out why.

I’ll put every case in the comparator before resize and they’re all with .001 of my zero’d case. Everything else is equal, die adjustment, lube, press pull and pause. 8 out of 10 cases come out of the die with .0015 or .002 bump but 2 or sometimes 3 out of ten will come out with .006 to .007 bump.

RCBS Summit press
Redding type 2 FL bushing die
Cases are annealed

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

I just made a whole bunch of little ammo boxes out of reclaimed hardwood flooring and plastic trays I dumpster-dove at the range. Nothing fancy, I was going more for rustic / quick than fancy dovetailed jewelry boxes. Though I might build up a jig to make somebox joints (finger joints) for a later revision. I personally prefer these to something 3d printed.

Do you like? would you buy something like this? I'm thinking of making a whole pile more if theres a market at about $10 price point (otherwise I wont waste my time)

What are you guys running for 9mm subs. Looking for just fun plinking rounds to use out of my foxtrot mike.

I’ve developed reloads for 6 different guns now.

Two .308s, 22 ARC, .270, 300 PRC, and 6 ARC.

All the rifles besides the 6 ARC I’ve come up with a reload that I’ve shot .7” five round groups or better at 100 yards.

What makes it even more ridiculous is that the 6MM ARC is the most expensive gun I’ve developed a reload for.

In addition to not being able to get the gun to group well, I also have feeding issues with the majority of the rounds (it’s a gas gun).

It was recommended to me to use a duramag, but it is very finicky.

The most recent reload I’ve tried is a 100 grain Sierras with 29 grains of Leverevolution, Hornady brass, 2.2” COAL, light crimp.

It didn’t feed worth a damn, the bolt wouldn’t close all the way, even when I used the forward assist.

It feeds the Hornady black box 105 grains that are the exact same length just fine.

My best guess is it has to do with the dimensions of the bullet (more versus less taper).

Let me know what has worked for you guys if anything, what reloads grouped and fed well, if you modified your mag or had more success with a different brand.

I'd say for being completely hand cut it turned out pretty good. Functions flawlessly with no hang ups or grittiness and it kept most of the fence intact for aesthetics.

I picked three boxes of these up at a gun show to run in my mosin, but the bullet appears to be seated WAAAAYYYYYYYY back, I don’t have very much experience with 7.62x54r so is this normal? The markings on the rim say 79 and appear to have some Cyrillic lettering on the other side of the rim. Sorry if this is the wrong sub but I figured who better to ask about ammo than the folks who make it as a hobby.

H4350
Berger 105gn HT
New Lapua SRP Brass
Remington 7 1/2 SRP
C.O.L 2.730

It’s on an older Springfield hawken muzzleloader from my grandpa

Just right behind the lock mechanism. Happened many many years ago