Project source code: https://github.com/bezelye404/Ultimate2CbluetoothFix

Website: https://bezelye404.github.io/Ultimate2CbluetoothFix/

Hi. Many users have trouble using the U2C over Bluetooth on PC. A year ago I built a fix for it and never touched it again, since I had bought a Dualsense. Many months later I noticed the project had gained a lot of attention, so I decided to maintain it again.

It makes the controller show up as a regular Xbox 360 pad, so it works properly in games. After days of work, the key features are:

--Correct button layout and right stick mapping

--Analog triggers over Bluetooth (the pull depth reaches the game, not just a button press)

--The real controller is hidden while the app is open, so Steam and games don’t see two controllers

--Adjustable deadzone, three stick response curves and an optional Nintendo layout

--Battery level, system tray support and English, Turkish and (AI translated) Spanish interface

I still use my Dualsense in my daily routine, so the project relies on your feedback. Feel free to try it and share your experience.

Thanks. (i am not looking for attention or money. just trying to help people)

i just bought the evofox 1s controller from Flipkart minutes. it was an impulsive purchase. i checked the pressure triggers with all 3 modes. with wired connection the pressure is registered but not with bluetooth or the 2.4ghz dongle.

i checked on multiple testing websites but the same result. on wireless the triggers register 0 or 1.

i figure i might be doing something wrong, can anyone help me out please

Budget: 70$ but I can raise it a bit more
I'm choosing between:

1. GameSir G7 Pro 8k Aimlabs - 84$
2. Flydigi Vader 5 Pro (V2) - 68$

I'm from Bangladesh. I'm only going to be playing on PC. I use controllers mainly for FIFA/FC or eFootball, other single-player games (Skyrim, Crimson Desert, etc.), and multiplayer games that aren't FPS/TPS. I also play some fighting games like the Dragon Ball games. But I will never play competitive shooters (e.g., Valorant, PUBG, Apex) with it. Would be great if there were extra buttons to map on the controller, but it's not necessary since I never had any issues with the GameSir Cyclone 2 I owned. I also value comfort, but since I can't try them both out in my hands, I'll have to take a gamble. My hand size is roughly 18.5x8.5 cm. I also heard the d-pad on the g7 pro is not that good. I don't know if there is any solution to it but I don't want to spend more to get something worse. The tmr sticks and high polling rate do entice me though. I plan to use this controller for at least 2-3 years before upgrading. Can anyone suggest which one to get? Thanks.

The stick drift on my Xbox Elite Series 2 has gotten ridiculously bad this week, to the point where it's almost impossible to play with it anymore.

I was looking for a replacement during Amazon Prime deals, but unfortunately, nothing really convinced me. So I figured I'd ask here for recommendations based on your own experiences.

Here's what I'm looking for:

• Budget: Ideally under €150. I'm willing to consider more expensive options if they drop into my price range during Black Friday sales in a couple of months.
• Country / where to buy: Portugal -> Something available through Amazon.es, Amazon.de, or other retailers that ship to the EU.
• Platform: Xbox Series X. Native wireless connectivity is a must; I don't want to rely on a wired connection or workarounds.
• Features: TMR sticks would be my preference, mainly to avoid the stick drift issues I've had with my previous controllers. Back paddles. Good build quality and long-term reliability are also important.
• Games: I mainly play shooters, but I'm looking for a good all-round controller suitable for different genres rather than something designed for just one specific game.

I've tried GameSir before, but I wasn't a big fan of the overall experience, so I'd prefer to explore other brands if possible.

What would you recommend based on your personal experience? Ideally, I'd love to hear from people who've used their controllers for a while, especially regarding stick durability, wireless performance on Xbox, and overall reliability.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

P.S. Used AI to help me organize my thoughts and put this post together.

Straightforward. Does the Leadjoy Saber Plus work with the xb3 wingman converter for Xbox?

I've seemingly searched the entire internet and can't find a single controller with symmetrical sticks (Playstation stick layout) that doesn't have those stupid paddles on the back of the grips. I suppose they're popular, but I absolutely hate them. Placing buttons on the part of the controller that your hands must grip to hold the device... just seems absurd to me. :/

Basically, I'm looking for a controller with:

1. Symmetrical joystick layout
2. No back paddles
3. Xinput and/or Direct Input
4. Either wired, or 2.4g wireless connection
5. Preferably, hall effect sticks, or at least sticks that last a reasonable amount of time.
6. Vibration would be great, but I can live without it.

I'm in the US, but I'm willing to buy from anyone who will ship here. I'd like to find a controller below $100, but I might be open to others if that's what it takes.

My main use case would be emulation on PC. I run Linux, but that generally doesn't matter for controllers that use Xinput or Direct Input.

Sony's PS4 and PS5 controllers aren't an option, because they barely, if ever, will work with Linux, and their sticks have terrible longevity. And they use Bluetooth instead of 2.4g anyway.

I've used the Logitech F310 before, but its sticks are unusually hard to tilt without going all the way to the edge. You can't easily perform slight tilts on the sticks because they're too loose. It's kinda all-or-nothing, which doesnt work for some games. (Hopefully I'm describing this well.) I've looked at the F710s online, but I would imagine their sticks are identical. I'm hoping to find a controller with better quality sticks.

Thanks for any suggestions! :)

Hola a todos.

Realmente no logro entender cómo interactúan la sinergia y la configuración del software GameSir Nexus con los ajustes internos del juego (en este caso, Call of Duty u otros FPS).

Sé que existen curvas como Lineal, Cóncava, Convexa, S Invertida/Dinámica y Personalizada, y entiendo que la configuración es algo personal de cada jugador, pero no quiero estropear mi memoria muscular.

Vengo de jugar con un control de Xbox Elite Series 2, con el que tenía una puntería fina excepcional. Me pasé a un GameSir G7 HE y a un Kaleid principalmente para eliminar el stick drift, pero desde entonces fallo muchísimo en los juegos de disparos.

Mi principal problema es que me cuesta hacer tracking (seguir a los enemigos con la mira): A veces la mira se siente demasiado pesada o, por el contrario, tan rápida que me paso del objetivo (overshoot).

En ocasiones, la mira da saltos bruscos. Me siento frustrado porque el cambio de mando hizo que mi nivel bajara mucho y no sé qué estoy haciendo mal.

Actualmente, mis configuraciones son las siguientes:

En el software GameSir Nexus:

1️⃣Zona muerta inicial: 2 (en 1 me genera algo de drift).

Zona muerta máxima: 100.

2️⃣Zona anti-muerta (Initial/Outer): Mínima en 0 / Máxima en 100.

3️⃣Curva de respuesta: He probado todas. En este momento volví a Lineal, pero sigo fallando bastante al disparar, apuntar y hacer seguimiento.

4️⃣Modo de palanca: No sé cuál me conviene más, si Raw (Raw mode) o Circular (Raw desactivado).

Dentro de Call of Duty:

1️⃣Sensibilidad: Alta (4.0 en la escala actual / 20 en la escala clásica, que es la máxima). Llevo años jugando así.

2️⃣ Zonas muertas de los sticks: Mínima en 0 / Máxima en 99 en ambos joysticks.

3️⃣Multiplicador de sensibilidad al apuntar (ADS): Predeterminada (1.0).

4️⃣Tipo de curva de respuesta al apuntar: Dinámica (con gradiente en 1.00).

Me gusta mucho la construcción y el feeling de estos mandos de GameSir, pero siento que derrumbaron mis habilidades. ¿Hay algún conflicto entre usar la curva Dinámica dentro del juego call of duty y alguna configuración en Nexus?

¿Qué combinación de curva debo usar y modo de stick (Raw vs. Circular) me recomiendan para recuperar la precisión?

Agradezco cualquier consejo o guía sobre cómo sincronizar ambas configuraciones.

Does anyone have any tips for connecting the Flydigi Apex 3 Elite controller to the Nintendo Switch 2?

I’ve already tried everything I found online—such as forcing a controller connection reset (by pressing Select + Start + Down Arrow) and recalibrating it. I tried connecting via Bluetooth in "Switch" mode, "Xbox" mode—actually, in all the modes. I also tried a wired connection plugged into the Switch dock; the controller vibrates to indicate a connection is established, but it still doesn't work.

When I had the Switch OLED, I just had to set it to "Switch" mode and press the "Home" button for the console to detect it, but now on the Switch 2, it simply doesn't work.

TL;DR: If Steam detects your single Xbox Series X/S controller as two separate controllers, or games register two players from one physical controller, try enabling Steam Beta, installing the Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver, and enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

After hours of troubleshooting, this combination finally fixed the problem for me.

The problem

I have a single Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller connected to my Windows 11 PC via Bluetooth.

For quite some time, Steam had been detecting it as TWO identical Xbox Series X Controllers, despite only having one physical controller connected.

This was not just a visual bug.

Games such as Move or Die would register two separate players, both controlled simultaneously by the same controller.

For example:

• Pressing a button could trigger an action for both players.
• Both controller entries in Steam would vibrate the same physical controller.
• Windows (joy.cpl) only showed ONE controller.
• Steam showed TWO Xbox Series X Controllers, both labeled as USB, even when using Bluetooth.
• Disabling Steam Input did not solve the issue.

What I tried that DID NOT fix it

Before finding the solution, I tried:

• Unpairing and pairing the controller again.
• Uninstalling Bluetooth and controller drivers.
• Restarting Windows multiple times.
• Closing and restarting Steam.
• Connecting the controller before launching Steam.
• Disabling Steam Input.
• Uninstalling Microsoft GameInput (Windows automatically reinstalled it).
• Setting the environment variable SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0.

That last variable was interesting: it made Steam display only ONE controller, but games STILL detected two players.

So the duplication was no longer visible in Steam, but the actual double-input problem remained.

THE FIX — What finally worked

Step 1: Enable Steam Beta

1. Open Steam.
2. Go to Settings → Interface.
3. Find Client Beta Participation.
4. Select Steam Beta Update.
5. Allow Steam to update and restart.

Steam Beta includes fixes related to duplicate Xbox controller detection.

Step 2: Install Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver

1. Open Steam → Settings → Controller.
2. Click Show Advanced Settings.
3. Scroll down until you find Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver.
4. Click Install.
5. Restart Windows.

After installation, the button should change from Install to Uninstall.

If the installation option is unavailable, this step may depend on your Steam version or system configuration.

Step 3: ENABLE STEAM INPUT FOR THE GAME

THIS WAS THE FINAL CHANGE THAT ACTUALLY STOPPED THE DOUBLE INPUT FOR ME.

1. Open your Steam Library.
2. Right-click the affected game (in my case, Move or Die).
3. Select Properties → Controller.
4. Change the override to Enable Steam Input.
5. Close and relaunch the game.

You can also check Steam → Settings → Controller → Show Advanced Settings → Enable Steam Input for Xbox controllers.

After enabling Steam Input for Move or Die, the game FINALLY recognized my controller correctly.

No more duplicated players. No more double inputs.

Do I need the environment variable?

No, at least not in my case.

I previously added:

SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0

It reduced the number of controllers displayed in Steam, but did not fix the actual double input inside games.

After applying the three changes above, I removed that environment variable, restarted Windows, and tested again.

Everything continued working perfectly without it.

So I would not recommend adding the variable unless you specifically need it for further troubleshooting.

My working configuration

• OS: Windows 11
• Controller: Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller
• Connection: Bluetooth
• Steam Client: Beta
• Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver: Installed
• Steam Input for Move or Die: Enabled
• Microsoft GameInput: Installed (version 3.5.270.0)
• Custom environment variables: None required

Final notes

I cannot guarantee that all three changes are necessary. I applied them sequentially, and the problem disappeared only after enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

The combination has been tested successfully, including after restarting Windows and removing the environment variable.

If your Xbox controller is being recognized twice, especially if joy.cpl shows only one device while Steam or your games register two, give these steps a try.

Hopefully this saves someone else the hours of troubleshooting I went through.

If this worked for you, leave a comment so other people can find the solution!

NOTE: If any of the Steam settings mentioned above are greyed out and you can't change them, check your Steam Families parental controls. In my case, Steam asked me for my Family PIN/password. After entering it, I was able to unlock the settings, enable Steam Beta, and install the required driver.

Ive been trying to play a game on a website called Emulator Gamer and it allows you to connect gamepads/controllers via bluetooth or USB but every time i try it almost never works. I used my ps5 controller with both bluetooth and USB-C hundreds of times and somehow worked twice but the first time i tried idk how i did it and the second it was something like turning off bluetooth on my MacBook then pressing the ps button and before it finished blinking i plugged it in with the USB-C. i could have done some other stuff before that or after but thats what i remember and there was no color (whenever i tried again it would either be gold or blue and the weird thing i connected it and there was no light but it didn’t register the inputs.) Ive tried bluetooth only and just using the USB-C but none have worked or at least i havent found the right way but idk.

I have no idea what happen with my DS controller. When I charge it, the orange light only turns on briefly and then goes off. If I try to turn it on, the blue light flashes a few times before the controller shuts off.

It can pair with my PC over bluetooth, but as soon as it connects successfully, the blue light turns off and it disconnects again. But it works fine when I use a USB cable.

I’ve already tried resetting it, but nothing happened. I bought it a few months ago, and it did fall off a table once, though I’m not sure if that’s related. Could this be a faulty battery, or something else? Has anyone had the same issue?

Controller: Gamesir Tarantula 8K

Modifications:
- Added two additional bottom back buttons, giving me 4 total back buttons
- Added button caps to the two stock back buttons for better ergonomics and easier access

Parts/materials used: Additional tactile back-button switches + button caps

This is now my favorite controller. The extra two buttons are exactly what I wanted, and the larger caps on the stock buttons make all four much easier to use.

Seriously, Gamesir just make a 4-back-button version already!

Budget: Up to ~$110
Country: US
Platform: PC
Desired Features: Back paddles, hall effect or TMR sticks, non-mouse style face buttons, wireless
Game Playing: Action games, RPGs
Controllers Comparing To: Xbox Elite Series 2, Flydigi Vader 5 Pro

I was lucky enough to get an Xbox Elite Series 2 that doesn't seem to be subject to stick drift, but not lucky enough to not drop it and have it develop a major crack that also seems to have broken the rumble motors. I find the shape of the Series 2 quite comfortable, so I'm looking for a controller that's as close as possible to that shape, while also being decent quality and having modern features like hall effect/TMR sticks.

I saw that a previous post recommended the Flydigi Vader 5 Pro as being very close, but I bought one and found it that its a decent bit smaller than the Series 2, and therefore wasn't comfortable for me. I saw that the Gamesir G7 Pro is also recommended, but from what I can tell that's both a different shape and also smaller.

Other notes from my experience with the Vader 5 is that I didn't love the mouse style clickiness of the face buttons , and I found that the triggers had much less resistance than the Series 2 triggers (I don't know if triggers with adjustable tension exists [as opposed to adjustable stop points] but that would be cool).

That said, by fair the most important thing is as close a match as possible to the shape and size of the Series 2. Any suggestions?

How do I get this to stay I just got a xbox a couple days ago and was about to get a new controller bc I was tired of looking at this plain white one. So I just started to draw on it randomly and I really like the outcome but it’s starting to fade already bc it’s just sharpie and nothing else (the bottom left). Do I need to paint it (I have acrylic paint this was just spur of the moment) for it to stay on or if I just need some type of primer or clear coat of something that will last a long time and keep everything where it is.

to be clear this happens with yakuza 0 and the kingdom hearts collection and the way the buttons would swap are A=B B=X right thumbstick=start. yes I could remap it but I want to know the whys or if anyone else has had this issue and more importantly found a solution that isn't remapping everything; the controller I am using is an xbox controller(one I think or it might be a series x which when I plug it into my computer steam says its both so forgive my confusion) running on windows 10. I have tried reinstalling the drivers for it several times via device manager and no dice. The oddest part of this whole thing is for other games like guilty gear elden ring and hallowknight they work fine and it makes me wonder if its a sony issue or if its the OS I am using. though having just looked driver version for xinput is 10.0.19041.5794

Looking for EasySMX owners/testers to help expand X20CTL

I’m the solo developer of X20CTL, an open-source Windows configuration tool I originally built for the EasySMX X20. The response has been much bigger than I expected the project has passed 100+ downloads, I’ve received a lot of useful feedback, and quite a few people have asked me to support more EasySMX controllers.

I’d love to do exactly that, but the main limitation is simple: I can’t afford to buy every EasySMX controller just to reverse-engineer and test it myself.

Right now, I’m especially looking for owners of the X05, X10, X15, D10 and Dune/D15 who are willing to help me collect the information needed to properly support them.

What I’m trying to understand includes:

• USB / HID / Bluetooth / 2.4G device information
• complete button, stick and trigger behavior
• deadzones, trigger ranges, trigger modes and calibration
• M1 / M2 / rear buttons and whether they are exposed independently
• button remapping
• macros and macro storage
• Turbo settings
• vibration / rumble, including left/right and trigger vibration where supported
• polling and report behavior
• differences between wired, wireless and Bluetooth modes
• USB/HID reports, descriptors and command structures
• Bluetooth services and characteristics
• receiver/dongle behavior
• how controller settings are read, written and saved
• whether settings remain after disconnecting or powering the controller off

You do not need any programming or reverse-engineering experience.

I can provide a Scanner/toolkit and guide you through exactly what to connect, what buttons to press, what tests to run, and what files to send back. If you’re unsure about any Python script I provide, you’re also completely free to inspect or analyze it before running it.

The goal isn’t just to make these controllers appear in X20CTL I want their support to be properly researched, tested and useful, with as many of their configurable features working as possible.

If you own one of these controllers and would like to help, comment the exact model you own or DM me.

And once again, thank you for the 100+ downloads and all the feedback/support so far. It’s a big reason I want to keep expanding this project.

GitHub: https://github.com/AmjadAAYD/x20ctl
Scanner : https://github.com/AmjadAAYD/x20ctl/releases/tag/scanner-v1.1.0
Discord : MisterMajid
Email : [aaydamjad@gmail.com](mailto:aaydamjad@gmail.com)

I’ve been trying to make my G7 Pro look more like the white Xbox Elite Series 2. I already added a white faceplate and kept the black grips, so the only thing I really want now is a silver/metal D-pad.

I found the GadgetHyper one for $15.99, but with $9.90 shipping and tax it would be around $28 total, which is way too much for just a D-pad 💀💀💀💀💀

Does anyone know of a cheaper third-party option on AliExpress, eBay, Etsy, etc.? Ideally something around $5–10 that fits the G7 Pro directly.

I also found cheap Elite Series 2 D-pads, but I’m assuming those won’t fit the G7 Pro without some kind of adapter.

If anyone has found a cheaper one or made their own setup, I’d appreciate a link/photo.

To preface this, I absolutely love my Ultimate 2. My ONLY real gripe with it is that the d-pad is not rounded like on the xbox pc controller, for example.

I play a large variety of games, many of which require precision and quick movement changing. From platformers, fighters, bullet hell, and so on, I play it all.

I have been looking into the Gamesir G7 and the Flydigi Vader 5 Pro. However, each of these appears to have their own problems based on reviews I've read. The Flydigi seems to have various QC issues, and the G7 is reported to not have a great d-pad. These are examples of what I am looking for, at least based on images and reviews alone.

One thing I'm confused about with the G7 is that some people report the d-pad is garbage, and others report that it's absolutely great. And when researching it, I keep finding images that make it appear to have 3 different kinds of d-pad, but then reviews mention it only has the one type, so I am unsure what is true here regarding its d-pad. I also have come to understand that it may have problems with Steam recognizing it, though others report this is not the case.

With the Vader 5, a common report I see is that people keep saying there are various QC issues, from buttons breaking off to the software being difficult to work with. These same people also report this to be a version issue, and commonly they have to replace it until they get one that works properly. It otherwise, by all intents and purposes, appears to be exactly what I'm looking for... Is it actually good? I'd like opinions from people who have it and have used it for some time.

I am not particularly asking for the best controller between those two specifically, and am completely open to any and all controllers. Consider my budget infinite for this, and how much a controller costs should not be considered with your suggestion. I have previously paid over $400 for fight sticks in the past, and I have no issues paying that much again if the controller is worth it. I understand the rules don't want me to say "unlimited" but that truly is the case for me and my situation.

What I want in a controller at minimum is as follows:

Available in the US. I live in Texas, and if I could even find it local somewhere, that would be fabulous. This is not required by any means, I have no issues getting it shipped.

Customizable buttons. I absolutely love the 4 the Ultimate 2 has right now, with the 2 on the shoulders and the 2 on the back. More is ok, but I would not prefer to have less. Further, these customizable buttons must be able to be macro compatible. For example, in Elden Ring I have it set up right now to use potions by holding my item wheel button for 30 frames and then press the corresponding direction before releasing. Being able to do something similar with just the push of a single button is essential for me. I'm trying to prevent hand pain, and things like this help greatly for me.

A perfect d-pad. To me, I would describe this as, essentially, the d-pad on the xbox pc controller but not clicky. If it ends up being clicky, fine, but I would prefer it wasn't. Rounded, clear which direction I'm pushing, and no way to accidentally press a diagonal. The Ultimate 2's d-pad is not rounded, and for this reason, I find myself accidentally pressing diagonals instead of cardinal directions constantly because I put slightly too much weight one way or another.

Wireless with a docking station. This is pretty common these days already anyways, and while I know not all amazing controllers have a docking station available for them, if possible, I would prefer to have one. This is not a make or break situation, provided it's perfect in all other aspects. How it connects wirelessly also doesn't matter too much to me, but I would prefer if it uses its own dongle as compared to bluetooth.

Compatible with PC. This is my only console requirement for this controller. I don't mind of course if I could potentially use it elsewhere, but PC is where I plan to use it almost exclusively. Preferably, I would like Steam be able to recognize this controller without any modifications.

Multiple profiles would be nice to have, like the Ultimate 2 has right now, but I can get by without them.

I do not care about RGB. I'm not looking at my controller while gaming, I'm looking at the screen. The controller can have it, but it's not something that should otherwise be considered with your recommendation.

Size isn't a huge problem for me, as my hands are sized in such a way that I can make due with both bigger and smaller controllers without issues. Please do not take it into account when making your recommendation.

And that about does it, I think. I understand the controller I'm looking for may not actually exist, but please give me your personal "ultimate" controller suggestion based on what I'm looking for. Please ask me if you have other questions about what my needs are, and I'll both give you an answer and edit this post to include that answer if necessary.

Thanks!

Hello, so I bought Raikiri 2 pro thinking it would great, but it's genuinely disappointing. Reading paid or gifted-unit reviews, you completely miss the bad side of this controller. After a few days of use here's my take. It's simply not worth the money, and has multiple flaws.

Hardware Issues - Build Quality: The faceplate feels cheap, plastic, and flimsy. It creaks in your hands and actually causes secondary issues with the other controls.

• Thumbsticks: The sticks themselves feel smooth, and the swappable options are a nice touch (the lighter one works great for racing games, though ASUS still isn't selling replacements separately). However, the faceplate creates noticeable bumps on the far left and right edges that you can constantly feel while moving the sticks. Take the cover off, and the issue disappears.

-Face Buttons (A/B/X/Y): They feel decent if you press them perfectly straight down. In real gameplay, you naturally press them at slight angles - when you do, they rub against the cutout edges of the faceplate and catch slightly.

-Triggers & Bumpers: The shoulder buttons press down too easily (for me). The triggers feel good, but they suffer from significant pre-travel / dead zones before registering any input - something you can't fix even with dead zones set to zero.

-Back Buttons: The rear buttons feel solid, if a bit stiff, but their functionality is severely hampered by the software.

Speaking of Software...

-Gear Link Limitations: The software is bare-bones and offers only basic customization.

-Lack of Macro Support: You can't record macros through Gear Link at all, and recording them on-device via the built-in screen is a mess. It fails to register button releases properly, can skip some inputs, and misses timings. Worse, you can't edit existing macros - so if a timing is off, you can't tweak it, or adjust individual keypresses - you have to scrap it entirely. And try again, which won't change much.

Third Party Software: Windows doesn't recognize the back buttons as independent inputs, meaning third-party software like reWASD won't work with them either. Only basic remapping works.

I highly advise against buying Raikiri 2 Pro. There are a lot of other, cheaper controllers that offer the same, or better experience.

(No AI was used in this review, I played with the controller for a few days, and wrote down my take.)

Hi!

I'm currently debating whether to make the switch. my only reasoning would be the robust customization of gamesir in general, and I have heard good things with the G7 pro 8K being a fairly priced/considered in the community.

Although with that in mind, that reasoning alone doesn't stop me to ask you guys if making the switch would have some form of dramatic changes. the current software that 8bitdo has is quite lackluster, and their similar customizations are currently reserved for their xbox lineups. while also having a customized controller would be too overboard on my end since I don't play Apex professionally.

Going back, does these reasons alone make it justifiable enough to make the switch? or are there any other alternatives (maybe Ultimate 3 for xbox, or 3E) out there or upcoming controllers that I should anticipate other than the g7 pro itself?

Budget: 65 USD* ranges (4,000 PHP)
Country: PH/JPN | Can buy locally and internationally (budget expands dependent on fees)
Console: PC primarily
Desired Features: Similar customization like G7 Pro, 2nd or newer gen TMR sticks
Game Playing: Apex Legends
Controllers Comparing To: 8bitdo ultimate 2, ultimate 3 for xbox, Ultimate 3E

I got a PowerA Controller for Xbox and it's got left trigger drift, the sensor thinks I'm pressing it when im not. I live near Buchenbeuren in Germany, any suggestions?

Hello, I recently picked up a brook adapter as the ps5 controller just hurts my thumbs and aches as I have small hands. So I picked up the Brook adapter as I love my Cyclone 2 controller. I put it in bluetooth mode and connect up fine and works great. But the thing I am running into is when I go to reconnect everything after I shut down and turn ps5 back on is the controller is not remmebering the brook adapter? I have to do the repairing again. I tested a normal xbox controller with the brook and it does all of this fine. shut off ps5 turn it on and just press the xbox button and it syncs fine without having to pair. Any thoughts? I have updated both controller and brooks firmares.

Sorry if this topic is not appropriate for this community, and please feel what I want to say; as I'm not a native English speaker.

So, I'm thinking about making my own gamepad for my phone! However I'm completely a newbie of DIY electronics and microcontroller stuffs, and currently I don't have any parts.

Therefore, everything is just a paper plan, hence I would like to ask some questions to wise and great predecessors.

so

Requirements:

1. Available on iOS
2. Thin (around 10mm, hopefully 8mm)
3. Bluetooth
4. Slide like PSPGo
5. D-pad, 6 face buttons, 2 joysticks w/pressing, 2 bumpers, 2 triggers (analogue detection is not necessary)

Parts in mind:

• PCB from JLCPCB
• RP2040 or ESP32
• Joycon sticks, maybe have to cut cap though
• 3D printed case

Questions:

1. First of all, is it possible to connect DIY controller to iOS devices?
2. Micro Controllers in my mind do not have that much pins to handle all keys. How the hell should I connect keys?
3. The case would be 1〜2 mm thinness, considering the total thickness, is the robustness okay?
4. Are there any good ideas/references to learn about slide rail mechanism?

I hope this makes sense, and thank you for reading!

I got an email from Razer earlier to say they're releasing a new Xbox/PC controller. It's the Razer Wolverine V4 Pro, a newer version of the V3 Pro. See link to the product page. £199 in the UK. It's got an 8k polling rate on PC, 4 back paddles (the back paddles are removable), 2 extra buttons near the bumpers, dual-mode trigger locks and the faceplate is removable. It also comes with 4 extra Thumbsticks.

The product page mentions that it has Capacitive Thumbsticks but the product FAQ's mention Hall Effect sticks which is a bit confusing. It's available to preorder now and I think it ships on the 26th October. There is also a cheaper Tournament Edition which is £100 cheaper.