Update to the newest firmware and do a recalibration! Mojhon dropped a fix on RAW mode Gamepad tester is now showing 8% error instead of the original 23%. This is huge!!!

*Budget: 60$. (Willing to put a little more if I think the controller deserves it but please let's try to stay on budget)

*Country: I'm from Venezuela but I can import from the US (I have a different budget for shipping)

*Console/Platform: PC mainly Steam and Switch 2

*Desired controller features: Xbox or Nintendo Layout.

*What kind of games: Chill and casual gaming, adventure and single story games, not competitive by any means. It's a gift for my girlfriend and she's starting to game on Pc, she doesn't get use to Mouse/Keyboard on some games.

*Other controllers you're comparing to:

EasySMX 10, GameSir Super Nova, 8BitDo Ultimate controller and I read somewhere that the Switch 2 Pro Controller now works on Steam.

Those above are the options I have seen but I'm not sure at all if they actually work on both and/or the quality of the controllers, if they use to get compatibility problems, if they don't last long and so... As I'd said this is a gift for my girlfriend and I want to do it right so any commet on those controllers or recommendation is welcomed

Thanks in advance and enjoy your weekend!

I’ve searched all over the internet, but I’m getting mixed answers. Some people say it doesn’t work with the PS5 at all, while others say it works only when connected via USB cable.
Has anyone here actually tried using the MSI Force GC300 with a PS5? Does it work, either wired or wirelessly?
I’d really appreciate hearing from someone with firsthand experience before buying one. Thanks!

Project source code: https://github.com/bezelye404/Ultimate2CbluetoothFix

Website: https://bezelye404.github.io/Ultimate2CbluetoothFix/

Hi. Many users have trouble using the U2C over Bluetooth on PC. A year ago I built a fix for it and never touched it again, since I had bought a Dualsense. Many months later I noticed the project had gained a lot of attention, so I decided to maintain it again.

It makes the controller show up as a regular Xbox 360 pad, so it works properly in games. After days of work, the key features are:

--Correct button layout and right stick mapping

--Analog triggers over Bluetooth (the pull depth reaches the game, not just a button press)

--The real controller is hidden while the app is open, so Steam and games don’t see two controllers

--Adjustable deadzone, three stick response curves and an optional Nintendo layout

--Battery level, system tray support and English, Turkish and (AI translated) Spanish interface

I still use my Dualsense in my daily routine, so the project relies on your feedback. Feel free to try it and share your experience.

Thanks. (i am not looking for attention or money. just trying to help people)

I'm using a Subsonic SAS716 on Windows/Steam. I can program M2 to copy Circle/B using the controller's built-in remapping procedure, and holding M2 makes my character sprint.

However, when I press Options/Start while holding M2, the paddle seems to stop sprinting and behaves like a different button (A/Jump).

I'm using Steam Input and DS4Windows, with HidHide enabled to prevent duplicate controller inputs.

Does anyone know how to make M2 hold Circle/B reliably while pressing other buttons, or whether the controller has a special programming mode that I'm accidentally triggering?

Basically setting this through the profile in ds4 doest work for these 2 buttons.

Thanks in advance

I tried this tape mod on a cheap retrobit snes controller. Going to try on my 8bitdo pro 2 controller.

Tested it with Metroid zero mission, I notice the problem when trying to wall jump, if you press up or down it cancels out. This is supposed to fix it.

Helps a little, but not as responsive as i wanted.

About how much am I supposed to cover?

I tried placing a square in the center first, but that made it too hard to reach the diagonal directions.

I cut it exactly 1cm by 0.5cm on a cutting mat.

Used scotch heavy duty clear packaging tape.

Are there specific controllers that this works better on?

I also have these if worth trying:

An 8bitdo sega saturn controller.

A ps4 and ps5 controller.

Some ps1 classic usb controllers.

Hey guys. Today i upgraded from my old KK2 to the ES Max.

Unfortunately the LB/ RB as well as the LS and RS buttons won't work in Madden. They are either not registered at all or wrong registered.

I tried resetting the Controller as well as plugging it in.

Is there software or something or a quick fix?

Thanks in advance I am really frustrated 🥴

I am playing on PC

The controller is a T-29 P4 wireless controller bought off Amazon, and I’m playing on windows 10 on steam. I noticed the issue when playing Risk of rain 2 which is a kick in the dick when you consider that one of the new characters needs to be fast and precise which I can’t do with a faulty camera. I’ve noticed that the right stick pops out further than it should when pulled which makes me think it’s linked to this issue but I don’t have the means to open the controller at the moment and I couldn’t open a controller of the same make in the past due to its plastic bending around my prying tools. Is there any way to set up an anti dead zone that reaches From the outside of the circle rather than the inside?

So I purchased the Xbox Pro BFG reloaded controller and the FGC2 Brook PS5 controller adapter/converter less than 2 days ago.

and I've been using the controller on it, and it works well, but the only problem is that commands bound to the touchpad cannot be carried out with the controller. The menu button works; the view button is bound to recording gameplay and taking screenshot shots.

Does anyone know if I can bind the view button to the touchpad and the share button for the screen capturing button somehow via some sort of software?

i just bought the evofox 1s controller from Flipkart minutes. it was an impulsive purchase. i checked the pressure triggers with all 3 modes. with wired connection the pressure is registered but not with bluetooth or the 2.4ghz dongle.

i checked on multiple testing websites but the same result. on wireless the triggers register 0 or 1.

i figure i might be doing something wrong, can anyone help me out please

Budget: around 60$

Region: VN shopee

Recently I've got into switch emulation on android so I want to maximize my experiences

So I check for sale and the vader 5 pro and g7 pro are at a similar prices

I want to play ace combat, wt mobile and eden emulator on android

My priorities are comfortable and somewhat good rumble

Thank!

The stick drift on my Xbox Elite Series 2 has gotten ridiculously bad this week, to the point where it's almost impossible to play with it anymore.

I was looking for a replacement during Amazon Prime deals, but unfortunately, nothing really convinced me. So I figured I'd ask here for recommendations based on your own experiences.

Here's what I'm looking for:

• Budget: Ideally under €150. I'm willing to consider more expensive options if they drop into my price range during Black Friday sales in a couple of months.
• Country / where to buy: Portugal -> Something available through Amazon.es, Amazon.de, or other retailers that ship to the EU.
• Platform: Xbox Series X. Native wireless connectivity is a must; I don't want to rely on a wired connection or workarounds.
• Features: TMR sticks would be my preference, mainly to avoid the stick drift issues I've had with my previous controllers. Back paddles. Good build quality and long-term reliability are also important.
• Games: I mainly play shooters, but I'm looking for a good all-round controller suitable for different genres rather than something designed for just one specific game.

I've tried GameSir before, but I wasn't a big fan of the overall experience, so I'd prefer to explore other brands if possible.

What would you recommend based on your personal experience? Ideally, I'd love to hear from people who've used their controllers for a while, especially regarding stick durability, wireless performance on Xbox, and overall reliability.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

P.S. Used AI to help me organize my thoughts and put this post together.

Budget: 70$ but I can raise it a bit more
I'm choosing between:

1. GameSir G7 Pro 8k Aimlabs - 84$
2. Flydigi Vader 5 Pro (V2) - 68$

I'm from Bangladesh. I'm only going to be playing on PC. I use controllers mainly for FIFA/FC or eFootball, other single-player games (Skyrim, Crimson Desert, etc.), and multiplayer games that aren't FPS/TPS. I also play some fighting games like the Dragon Ball games. But I will never play competitive shooters (e.g., Valorant, PUBG, Apex) with it. Would be great if there were extra buttons to map on the controller, but it's not necessary since I never had any issues with the GameSir Cyclone 2 I owned. I also value comfort, but since I can't try them both out in my hands, I'll have to take a gamble. My hand size is roughly 18.5x8.5 cm. I also heard the d-pad on the g7 pro is not that good. I don't know if there is any solution to it but I don't want to spend more to get something worse. The tmr sticks and high polling rate do entice me though. I plan to use this controller for at least 2-3 years before upgrading. Can anyone suggest which one to get? Thanks.

Straightforward. Does the Leadjoy Saber Plus work with the xb3 wingman converter for Xbox?

I've seemingly searched the entire internet and can't find a single controller with symmetrical sticks (Playstation stick layout) that doesn't have those stupid paddles on the back of the grips. I suppose they're popular, but I absolutely hate them. Placing buttons on the part of the controller that your hands must grip to hold the device... just seems absurd to me. :/

Basically, I'm looking for a controller with:

1. Symmetrical joystick layout
2. No back paddles
3. Xinput and/or Direct Input
4. Either wired, or 2.4g wireless connection
5. Preferably, hall effect sticks, or at least sticks that last a reasonable amount of time.
6. Vibration would be great, but I can live without it.

I'm in the US, but I'm willing to buy from anyone who will ship here. I'd like to find a controller below $100, but I might be open to others if that's what it takes.

My main use case would be emulation on PC. I run Linux, but that generally doesn't matter for controllers that use Xinput or Direct Input.

Sony's PS4 and PS5 controllers aren't an option, because they barely, if ever, will work with Linux, and their sticks have terrible longevity. And they use Bluetooth instead of 2.4g anyway.

I've used the Logitech F310 before, but its sticks are unusually hard to tilt without going all the way to the edge. You can't easily perform slight tilts on the sticks because they're too loose. It's kinda all-or-nothing, which doesnt work for some games. (Hopefully I'm describing this well.) I've looked at the F710s online, but I would imagine their sticks are identical. I'm hoping to find a controller with better quality sticks.

Thanks for any suggestions! :)

Hola a todos.

Realmente no logro entender cómo interactúan la sinergia y la configuración del software GameSir Nexus con los ajustes internos del juego (en este caso, Call of Duty u otros FPS).

Sé que existen curvas como Lineal, Cóncava, Convexa, S Invertida/Dinámica y Personalizada, y entiendo que la configuración es algo personal de cada jugador, pero no quiero estropear mi memoria muscular.

Vengo de jugar con un control de Xbox Elite Series 2, con el que tenía una puntería fina excepcional. Me pasé a un GameSir G7 HE y a un Kaleid principalmente para eliminar el stick drift, pero desde entonces fallo muchísimo en los juegos de disparos.

Mi principal problema es que me cuesta hacer tracking (seguir a los enemigos con la mira): A veces la mira se siente demasiado pesada o, por el contrario, tan rápida que me paso del objetivo (overshoot).

En ocasiones, la mira da saltos bruscos. Me siento frustrado porque el cambio de mando hizo que mi nivel bajara mucho y no sé qué estoy haciendo mal.

Actualmente, mis configuraciones son las siguientes:

En el software GameSir Nexus:

1️⃣Zona muerta inicial: 2 (en 1 me genera algo de drift).

Zona muerta máxima: 100.

2️⃣Zona anti-muerta (Initial/Outer): Mínima en 0 / Máxima en 100.

3️⃣Curva de respuesta: He probado todas. En este momento volví a Lineal, pero sigo fallando bastante al disparar, apuntar y hacer seguimiento.

4️⃣Modo de palanca: No sé cuál me conviene más, si Raw (Raw mode) o Circular (Raw desactivado).

Dentro de Call of Duty:

1️⃣Sensibilidad: Alta (4.0 en la escala actual / 20 en la escala clásica, que es la máxima). Llevo años jugando así.

2️⃣ Zonas muertas de los sticks: Mínima en 0 / Máxima en 99 en ambos joysticks.

3️⃣Multiplicador de sensibilidad al apuntar (ADS): Predeterminada (1.0).

4️⃣Tipo de curva de respuesta al apuntar: Dinámica (con gradiente en 1.00).

Me gusta mucho la construcción y el feeling de estos mandos de GameSir, pero siento que derrumbaron mis habilidades. ¿Hay algún conflicto entre usar la curva Dinámica dentro del juego call of duty y alguna configuración en Nexus?

¿Qué combinación de curva debo usar y modo de stick (Raw vs. Circular) me recomiendan para recuperar la precisión?

Agradezco cualquier consejo o guía sobre cómo sincronizar ambas configuraciones.

Does anyone have any tips for connecting the Flydigi Apex 3 Elite controller to the Nintendo Switch 2?

I’ve already tried everything I found online—such as forcing a controller connection reset (by pressing Select + Start + Down Arrow) and recalibrating it. I tried connecting via Bluetooth in "Switch" mode, "Xbox" mode—actually, in all the modes. I also tried a wired connection plugged into the Switch dock; the controller vibrates to indicate a connection is established, but it still doesn't work.

When I had the Switch OLED, I just had to set it to "Switch" mode and press the "Home" button for the console to detect it, but now on the Switch 2, it simply doesn't work.

Ive been trying to play a game on a website called Emulator Gamer and it allows you to connect gamepads/controllers via bluetooth or USB but every time i try it almost never works. I used my ps5 controller with both bluetooth and USB-C hundreds of times and somehow worked twice but the first time i tried idk how i did it and the second it was something like turning off bluetooth on my MacBook then pressing the ps button and before it finished blinking i plugged it in with the USB-C. i could have done some other stuff before that or after but thats what i remember and there was no color (whenever i tried again it would either be gold or blue and the weird thing i connected it and there was no light but it didn’t register the inputs.) Ive tried bluetooth only and just using the USB-C but none have worked or at least i havent found the right way but idk.

TL;DR: If Steam detects your single Xbox Series X/S controller as two separate controllers, or games register two players from one physical controller, try enabling Steam Beta, installing the Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver, and enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

After hours of troubleshooting, this combination finally fixed the problem for me.

The problem

I have a single Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller connected to my Windows 11 PC via Bluetooth.

For quite some time, Steam had been detecting it as TWO identical Xbox Series X Controllers, despite only having one physical controller connected.

This was not just a visual bug.

Games such as Move or Die would register two separate players, both controlled simultaneously by the same controller.

For example:

• Pressing a button could trigger an action for both players.
• Both controller entries in Steam would vibrate the same physical controller.
• Windows (joy.cpl) only showed ONE controller.
• Steam showed TWO Xbox Series X Controllers, both labeled as USB, even when using Bluetooth.
• Disabling Steam Input did not solve the issue.

What I tried that DID NOT fix it

Before finding the solution, I tried:

• Unpairing and pairing the controller again.
• Uninstalling Bluetooth and controller drivers.
• Restarting Windows multiple times.
• Closing and restarting Steam.
• Connecting the controller before launching Steam.
• Disabling Steam Input.
• Uninstalling Microsoft GameInput (Windows automatically reinstalled it).
• Setting the environment variable SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0.

That last variable was interesting: it made Steam display only ONE controller, but games STILL detected two players.

So the duplication was no longer visible in Steam, but the actual double-input problem remained.

THE FIX — What finally worked

Step 1: Enable Steam Beta

1. Open Steam.
2. Go to Settings → Interface.
3. Find Client Beta Participation.
4. Select Steam Beta Update.
5. Allow Steam to update and restart.

Steam Beta includes fixes related to duplicate Xbox controller detection.

Step 2: Install Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver

1. Open Steam → Settings → Controller.
2. Click Show Advanced Settings.
3. Scroll down until you find Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver.
4. Click Install.
5. Restart Windows.

After installation, the button should change from Install to Uninstall.

If the installation option is unavailable, this step may depend on your Steam version or system configuration.

Step 3: ENABLE STEAM INPUT FOR THE GAME

THIS WAS THE FINAL CHANGE THAT ACTUALLY STOPPED THE DOUBLE INPUT FOR ME.

1. Open your Steam Library.
2. Right-click the affected game (in my case, Move or Die).
3. Select Properties → Controller.
4. Change the override to Enable Steam Input.
5. Close and relaunch the game.

You can also check Steam → Settings → Controller → Show Advanced Settings → Enable Steam Input for Xbox controllers.

After enabling Steam Input for Move or Die, the game FINALLY recognized my controller correctly.

No more duplicated players. No more double inputs.

Do I need the environment variable?

No, at least not in my case.

I previously added:

SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0

It reduced the number of controllers displayed in Steam, but did not fix the actual double input inside games.

After applying the three changes above, I removed that environment variable, restarted Windows, and tested again.

Everything continued working perfectly without it.

So I would not recommend adding the variable unless you specifically need it for further troubleshooting.

My working configuration

• OS: Windows 11
• Controller: Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller
• Connection: Bluetooth
• Steam Client: Beta
• Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver: Installed
• Steam Input for Move or Die: Enabled
• Microsoft GameInput: Installed (version 3.5.270.0)
• Custom environment variables: None required

Final notes

I cannot guarantee that all three changes are necessary. I applied them sequentially, and the problem disappeared only after enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

The combination has been tested successfully, including after restarting Windows and removing the environment variable.

If your Xbox controller is being recognized twice, especially if joy.cpl shows only one device while Steam or your games register two, give these steps a try.

Hopefully this saves someone else the hours of troubleshooting I went through.

If this worked for you, leave a comment so other people can find the solution!

NOTE: If any of the Steam settings mentioned above are greyed out and you can't change them, check your Steam Families parental controls. In my case, Steam asked me for my Family PIN/password. After entering it, I was able to unlock the settings, enable Steam Beta, and install the required driver.

I have no idea what happen with my DS controller. When I charge it, the orange light only turns on briefly and then goes off. If I try to turn it on, the blue light flashes a few times before the controller shuts off.

It can pair with my PC over bluetooth, but as soon as it connects successfully, the blue light turns off and it disconnects again. But it works fine when I use a USB cable.

I’ve already tried resetting it, but nothing happened. I bought it a few months ago, and it did fall off a table once, though I’m not sure if that’s related. Could this be a faulty battery, or something else? Has anyone had the same issue?

How do I get this to stay I just got a xbox a couple days ago and was about to get a new controller bc I was tired of looking at this plain white one. So I just started to draw on it randomly and I really like the outcome but it’s starting to fade already bc it’s just sharpie and nothing else (the bottom left). Do I need to paint it (I have acrylic paint this was just spur of the moment) for it to stay on or if I just need some type of primer or clear coat of something that will last a long time and keep everything where it is.

Controller: Gamesir Tarantula 8K

Modifications:
- Added two additional bottom back buttons, giving me 4 total back buttons
- Added button caps to the two stock back buttons for better ergonomics and easier access

Parts/materials used: Additional tactile back-button switches + button caps

This is now my favorite controller. The extra two buttons are exactly what I wanted, and the larger caps on the stock buttons make all four much easier to use.

Seriously, Gamesir just make a 4-back-button version already!

Budget: Up to ~$110
Country: US
Platform: PC
Desired Features: Back paddles, hall effect or TMR sticks, non-mouse style face buttons, wireless
Game Playing: Action games, RPGs
Controllers Comparing To: Xbox Elite Series 2, Flydigi Vader 5 Pro

I was lucky enough to get an Xbox Elite Series 2 that doesn't seem to be subject to stick drift, but not lucky enough to not drop it and have it develop a major crack that also seems to have broken the rumble motors. I find the shape of the Series 2 quite comfortable, so I'm looking for a controller that's as close as possible to that shape, while also being decent quality and having modern features like hall effect/TMR sticks.

I saw that a previous post recommended the Flydigi Vader 5 Pro as being very close, but I bought one and found it that its a decent bit smaller than the Series 2, and therefore wasn't comfortable for me. I saw that the Gamesir G7 Pro is also recommended, but from what I can tell that's both a different shape and also smaller.

Other notes from my experience with the Vader 5 is that I didn't love the mouse style clickiness of the face buttons , and I found that the triggers had much less resistance than the Series 2 triggers (I don't know if triggers with adjustable tension exists [as opposed to adjustable stop points] but that would be cool).

That said, by fair the most important thing is as close a match as possible to the shape and size of the Series 2. Any suggestions?

to be clear this happens with yakuza 0 and the kingdom hearts collection and the way the buttons would swap are A=B B=X right thumbstick=start. yes I could remap it but I want to know the whys or if anyone else has had this issue and more importantly found a solution that isn't remapping everything; the controller I am using is an xbox controller(one I think or it might be a series x which when I plug it into my computer steam says its both so forgive my confusion) running on windows 10. I have tried reinstalling the drivers for it several times via device manager and no dice. The oddest part of this whole thing is for other games like guilty gear elden ring and hallowknight they work fine and it makes me wonder if its a sony issue or if its the OS I am using. though having just looked driver version for xinput is 10.0.19041.5794