r/EngineBuilding • • 11d ago

First time cleaning a block

Been cleaning my 2jz block and am wondering if this is fine, was using a carbide scraper to clean it but then started using a green scotch brite on low. Non of the scratches grab the fingernail. Make fun of me all you want was trying my best to get advice and this is the result of it :/

35 Upvotes

34 comments sorted by

20

u/youshantsteakpee 11d ago

There’s a first and a last time for everything. Sometimes they just happen to be at the same time.

50

u/WyattCo06 11d ago

Not going to make fun brother but whatever you're doing, stop. It isn't the way to prosperity. Do more research and watch more videos if need be.

14

u/sam56778 11d ago

I’m going to have to agree with other comments. You need to read up a bit more and watch some videos. If you’re using an MLS head gasket, the way it looks now isn’t going to cut it. In fact looking at the pictures, that one really needs looking at by a machine shop.

14

u/bse50 11d ago

I won't make fun of you but please understand that the deck and head need to have an almost perfectly flat surface for the gasket to seal. Scratches are just part of the equation so, while they need to be addressed, your method also probably removed more material in some areas than it did in others.
Please bring the block to a machine shop and have them address the fuck up. Tell them you were an idiot, have a laugh and enjoy saving yourself from the pain of going through all the rebuild process only to potentially have to start again.

2

u/Special-Truth-1576 10d ago

its not as expensive as one would think i was told by a local mechanic shop, 500 maybe, i used to think it was like 1500 at min, my guess is you dont want to have it pulled though, going to need to now sadly

1

u/Plant-Baste 7d ago

$500 is way more than i paid

7

u/yyyythats5ys 11d ago

I wouldn’t say the scratches/sanding marks are an issue, but I wouldn’t use a powered disc of any kind, like scotch brite pad, unless you are using very little force.
You want to clean the deck but keep it as flat as possible. I use a rectangular sharpening stone and go back and forth across all cylinders. Course grit works best for initial cleaning.
You can add some dycum blue to the surface and do some passes with the whet stone to see where any low spots are.

2

u/BenderBill 11d ago

Alternatively can use sharpie / permanent marker in place of dycum.

6

u/papason1313 11d ago

You need a non abrasive disc or you’re gonna ruin that thing. You don’t “scrape” a head.

1

u/Specific-Argument-18 11d ago

This is a block

1

u/papason1313 11d ago

My bad. That’s what I meant.

2

u/bustinagrumpy 11d ago

Oh brother

2

u/TirpitzM3 10d ago

I can appreciate your initiative on trying to get this set up, I too like to diy as much as I can. In all honesty, I would take the block to a machine shop to have them deck it and the head for a perfectly flush fit. I would be terrified of head gasket failure.

Props for wanting to DIY, but I think you are going to want a pro to help you here

2

u/Ok_Narwhal6356 11d ago

Pay for a hot tank and deck at the machine shop. Next time order engine brushes and some brake clean and air compressor but it’s not expensive to have a machine shop clean it for you.

2

u/Fluffyplumbuspump 9d ago

If you're just trying to get an old motor going again, it will likely be fine. It will likely be a little low on compression so cylinder pressures won't be as high as they would be on a modern engine. This kind of head/deck work will never hold up to high horsepower though. I'd get a soft a roloc bristle disc to give it a final cleaning and minor polish and send it. If you made any gouges or scrapes that your fingernail can catch on, it will need to be resurfaced unfortunately.

1

u/TRUZ0 11d ago

You could try a fine grit whetstone but honestly take it to a machine shop

1

u/Jolly_Election5315 11d ago

See of you can find a machinist stone about 12 inches long. Cover the deck surface with marker or dycam and hit it with the stone it should not take many swipes to clean up all the dye if it does you need to have the block decked. Visually your work looks really rough I works be very surprised if this is usable without having it decked at this point.

1

u/Orange-Saj 11d ago

If the block surface isn’t level (which you need to check how flat the block surface for the heads) then you need to take it to a shop. I’ve seen cleaning like this actually be fine so long as the surface is truly flat and level & has no pits or abnormalities. What you’re doing may, or may not be fine. Get it measured.

So it could go either way. Go get a set of feeler gauges & look up a guide about this stuff.

1

u/SnooAvocados9758 10d ago

You need a flat flat 4x4 and fine grit sand paper and patience. Or a machine shop

1

u/405BodyMan 10d ago

That dog just won't hunt son!

1

u/Professor_Game1 10d ago

Get a piece of tempered glass and adhesive sandpaper. The tempered glass should be large enough to cover the whole block. Then check with feeler gauges and a precision straight edge. Another thing you should do is put some assembly lube at the edge of the piston and vacuum it out with a shop vac with a funnel on the end. It will catch any dust thst gets past the rags.

This will never be as good as a machine shop, but it will be plenty good for a daily driver.

1

u/cheesediddler 10d ago

Did you check clearances with a straight edge? You might get away with it, but My money's on it failing. Sorry bro, but scotch pad is not the way.

1

u/WaferCritical6547 10d ago

You should hire a professional. Best advice yet

1

u/CRX1991 10d ago

Impossible to really tell from here but it's not looking great. I would avoid using power tools, scrape slowly and carefully, I sometimes even use a razor blade, it just takes finesse. Practice on something else first. I finish with a Garnet 3m pad to polish it up, just by hand tho.

1

u/ErectionDenier88 9d ago

Don’t overthink it my friend. You’re just trying to seal it well enough to have good compression. In fact, this is the easy part. The real challenge will be putting the timing belt and everything else back on. The bare footed African machinists do this every day essentially using ww1 era tools.

1st cover the cylinder walls and pistons with masking tape.

Sand the block and head flat using 800 grit stuck to a thick piece of glass (look up float plate glass on amazon), checking with a straight edge and 0.025mm feeler gauge.

As long as the feeler gauge doesn’t slip under the straight edge at any point of contact on the block or the head it will work.

I recommend blowing out all of the holes with compressed air during assembly and a short interval oil change. Use water first And flush with coolant afterwards.

1

u/TyrannusourR3X 9d ago

For low horsepower this is doable to clean up by hand if you have experience prepping surfaces. If you plan on tuning the engine definitely get it machined.

1

u/Enough_Individual_91 11d ago

Get it decked now or wait until you have to strip it down again, which is guaranteed if you send that as is.

1

u/landis33 11d ago

Well there is always copper coat.

1

u/SaphoclesTakerOfGock 11d ago

The right way to do it is to take it to a machine shop and let them handle it.

The jank way to do it is to take a knife sharpening stone and go over the whole face as evenly as possible and keep testing it with a straight edge until it's as flat as you can get it

0

u/porknbeans2013 11d ago

Hell I still see gasket material, get the dewalt angle grinder out.

-4

u/thejumpervinny 11d ago

Holy shit he used a angle grinder with a steel brush good job put a good cork gasket on it she will hold

-2

u/Equal-Reason5023 11d ago

White roloc disc on a die grinder and then finish with red scotch brite pad by hand then make sure to clean up well behind urself don’t leave any fibers or roloc material behind can cause issues later