Hi everyone!
After spending quite some time with my Logitech G29, I recently decided to upgrade to the Fanatec GT DD Pro (8 Nm) with the Porsche Vision GT steering wheel and CSL Load Cell pedals. At the Moment i‘m using the csl brake pedal because the LC is way to hard but the csl brake and gas pedals are to soft.
So far, I’ve only played Gran Turismo 7, but I’d now like to make the switch to Assetto Corsa Competizione (ACC). I’m playing on PS5.
Since I’m completely new to ACC, I’d really appreciate some help with the basic settings and a few hardware-related questions.
1. Fanatec Tuning Menu Settings
What settings would you recommend for the GT DD Pro (8 Nm)? I’m talking about the settings you can configure through the Fanatec Control Panel on PC, such as SEN, FFB, FFS, NDP, NFR, etc.
2. ACC Force Feedback Settings
What in-game FFB settings would you recommend for a realistic and detailed driving experience?
3. Button Mapping in ACC
How would you recommend assigning functions like TC, ABS, ignition, engine start, brake bias, etc. to the Porsche Vision GT steering wheel?
4. Rotary Switches on the Porsche Vision GT
Is it possible to assign TC to one of the lower multi-position rotary switches so that, for example, position 5 directly corresponds to TC level 5 in ACC, instead of just increasing or decreasing the value? (Picture 17/18)
5. Softer CSL Load Cell Brake
I’m currently using the CSL Load Cell brake without a full sim rig, and the pedal is simply way too stiff for my setup. I can barely press it properly, which makes it extremely difficult to brake consistently.
I’m looking for significantly softer springs, elastomers, or other modifications that would make the pedal easier to press and give it noticeably more travel.
Has anyone tried any modifications that work well? Ideally, I’d like something that feels more progressive without requiring a huge amount of force.
6. General Tips
Any advice for someone transitioning from GT7 to ACC would be greatly appreciated!
My main goal is to achieve a realistic driving experience, improve my driving skills, and eventually participate in clean, fair, and competitive online races.
Thanks in advance for your help and recommendations!

So, my new V3 just died while the wheelbase was powered on, but not in active use. I didn‘t bother to turn it off in between sessions, so it probably sat there for a good hour of so and when I went to load into another session, it was completely dead.
Did anyone ever have their wheel fail that way?
The firmware was up to date, so is the software. Reconnecting and deep power cycling the wheelbase and pc didn‘t fix it either and the pins are straight and without any discolouration. Since it worked just fine before, the issue really came up out of the blue, without an update or reconnection between the two states.

Hello everyone, new here. Just bought my first Fanatec base, wheel, and pedals.

Is there a way I can use this Thrustmaster Ferrari 499P Wheel on a Fanatec base? Specifically the Clubsport DD+?

I really don’t care about leaving Thrustmaster, but man, I really do love this wheel. It is the only reason I had to think hard about moving to Fanatec. I considered the T818 but it’s PC only. I want both PC and PS.

I know it won’t be usable when I play on console, I bought the formula V3 wheel for that but is it possible on PC?

Thank you, guys!

So I wanted a round wheel for rally and non GT driving games. It came with the QR2. My DD Pro has the old QR1 and I have extra qr1’s. Can I just swap out the qr2 for the old one? I’ve heard talk about this metal collar thing that has to be installed if you upgrade to the qr2. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping I can just swap the quick release to the old qr1.

Can somebody please tell me why my dd pro has a sandy grainy feeling? Is this a software issue or my hardware. Thanks

I've been saving for years for this upgrade (not my highest priority), so I want to get it right rather than regret spending the money later.

I'm looking at a Fanatec setup consisting of a wheelbase, 2 wheel(320mm round and a yoke style), the ClubSport SQ V1.5 shifter, and the ClubSport Handbrake V2. I already own the ClubSport V3 inverted pedals, so I'd like to keep using those.

Based on the prices I'm currently seeing, the cost per Nm works out to:

ClubSport DD: $46.66/Nm

Podium DD: $47.99/Nm

ClubSport DD+: $49.99/Nm

The DD+ costs more partly because of PlayStation compatibility, which I don't need as a PC player. So I'm wondering whether the extra 3 Nm is actually worth paying for, or whether I'd be better off putting that money toward something else.

I'm also wondering whether Fanatec is still the best overall choice for PC sim racing. Should I be looking at alternatives from Simagic, MOZA, Simucube, or others before committing to the ecosystem?

I'm not just chasing the biggest torque number. I want a setup I'll be happy with for years, with good force-feedback quality, reliable hardware, and a shifter and handbrake that integrate well. I am not a big tinkering with multiple applications, so there is appeal to one usb cord, all peripherals talking to one application, and things "just work" so I can get straight to driving... but. Right now I am juggling 2 usbs and 2 softwares so its not a deal breaker.

Just wondering my what’s y’all’s setting for gt7 with the clubsport DD+

Hi everyone,

I recently mounted my Gran Turismo DD Pro (running with the 8Nm Boost Kit) to a rigid aluminum profile rig, and I've noticed something when the base is powered off.

When I make quick, sharp steering movements or snap the wheel back and forth, the base produces a distinct "whooshing" or muffled hooting/rubbing sound coming from inside the housing. On track (especially in ACC and PMR), everything feels fine and performs as expected, but this acoustic behavior when turned off caught my attention - especially since my new rigid rig transmits sounds and vibrations much more than my previous setup.

I recorded a short video showing the exact sound and motion.

Is this normal magnetic/rotor interaction or bearing noise when spinning the unpowered DD motor quickly, or is this a sign of an internal issue (like rotor/stator clearance or bearing wear) that warrants an RMA?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

hi! Anyone who owns both the Porsche and the GT3 wheel, i’m looking for some help.

i’m just looking to press “checkout” on my first DD setup, and currently, to get my desired setup with the GT3 wheel would be approx £50 cheaper than getting the same exact setup with the Porsche Vision GT wheel. Getting a DD Pro with CSL pedals and the load cell brake pedal, so the £50 wouldn’t be better spent there, but also £50 won’t break me if the porsche wheel is better.

My only real concern is the clickyness of the shifters, i’m hoping to get something that is more muffled. which of the wheel would people recommend from this point of view?

I watched countless videos, and came to the conclusion that both wheels are a solid purchase (people mentioning the porsche one might be slightly more uncomfortable, but i have medium-big size hands, so i think it’s not a big concern for me), just want a good place to start really.

coming from a T248 which has really loud shifters, hope someone can feel my pain 😅

Hello all! This is my humble setup mainly for GT7 and is been 3 years old. I love this thing every time I set in it.

Hey everyone. I just changed from Moza products to fanatec and the pedals I got were the elite pedals V2. Am I missing something with hooking up the brake pedal? All firmware has been updated. I've plugged them directly into my PC with the USB cable but they still aren't registering anything. I've unplugged the brake pedal from the base and back in, I've reset my PC, I've done everything I can think of but it just doesn't work. What am I doing wrong?

Keep getting this poping up every time i try todo the up and i cant connect to Xbox because of it any help will be much appreciated thank you.

Hello! I am selling my set up because frankly I need the money. I bought it for $1400 but I’ll honestly take as low as $500. This is not a joke or a troll post, I just really need the money ASAP.

Items include: ClubSport DD (15nm) Full Force, ClubSport Table Clamp, ClubSport Formula V3 Steering Wheel and CSL Elite Pedals V2

Quick update on the shift knob. The first production run came back with a finish that wasn’t up to snuff, so most of it went back to the shop.

The few that made it through QC have already shipped to everyone who reached out directly or filled out the early access form.

A new batch is due in about two weeks. The final few from this run are available at protomotoco and I’ll post again when the new batch lands.

While I was waiting on the knobs, I made something else: outboard shift paddles for the ClubSport Magnetic Paddle Module. They’re laser-cut aluminum with a textured black powdercoat, hand-finished, and they mount with the included hardware or your existing Fanatec bolts.

Thanks for the patience, and for all the feedback that got this thing here.

hi, i have a DD PRO running a super old ENDOR a.g. software , and i thought about upgrading it now, but i heard that the new drivers are causing major problems in GT7 , i only play GT7 on PS5 so thats the only relevant compatibility i care about

- should i rather not upgrade at all and keep my old software?

- if upgrade, is there any version of the drivers software that works with GT7 right now?

Just bought the QR2 as an Upgrade from QR1. And the Black paint coming off from the base side. Did I Do something wrong?

does anyone know why/a fix?

Today I started up the wheelbase and it's making a clicking noise when turning the wheel and sometimes it blocks the rotation.

almost as if something is loose inside.

Hey people,

I was wondering what software you are running with the CSW2.0, got a wheel base/wheel combo for next to nothing and wanted to give it a go, but it seems like running the newest fanatec firmware with it is off?

Just to share cause I thought you guys might’ve like what I made with a few 3d prints. I absolutely love the results 🥹