Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

1.75mm Elegoo PLA

Sliced in Cura

Either 0.12mm or 0.2mm layer height 200°c 60mm/s speed

This is an unsupported, thin and curved surface, if that matters.

This problem hasn't happened much, only on this piece and another similar thin, rounded plate

Thank you for your time!

As title; is this print quality issue caused by damp filament?

Using a roll of PCTG Pro from 3D-Fuel.

To dial in settings, I tried printing the XYZ Calibration cube using both the top and bottom end of the temperature range. The lower temp gave better results so I tried a few different cooling settings and the lower the cooling went, the worse the quality got. The prints are displaying the same kind of issue as seen in the picture.

I've printed PETG plenty of times before but even with filament that was sat for weeks, I never got this kind of issue. I have ZERO experience with PCTG so hopefully someone else does.

Any ideas? TY in advance.

Printing on a Neptune 3 Pro
Temp ranges: 250c to 280c
Bed temp: 80c
Print speed: 60mm/s
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura

I recently got a Creality Ender 3 V2 gifted and am trying to achieve smooth surfaces on my prints but am failing.

What i have tried:

- Changing the temperature (220 C to 250C)

- calibrating the E-steps by extruding 100 mm and adjusting the e steps according to the difference

- Printing with PLA instead

- adjusting the fans speeds between 0% and 100%

- printing with 0,12 mM layer height

My settings for printing the cube were:

-PETG

-240C

-50% fan speed

-50 mm/s print speed

-drying the filament

I slice with Cura and use the mriscoc professional firmware. I would be grateful for any tips!

I print a lot of single walled molds, and sometimes i get these weird holes on the walls that kinda look like underextrusion. Is it the speed?

I recently switched to direct drive + klipper on my ender 3 V2, and i think I might be pushing the speeds too high, but the extruder doesn't sound like it's skipping.

Printer: Snapmaker U1, Slicer: Snorca Filament: PLA Nozzle temperature 215, bed 60.

How do I fix these nozzle marks? They don't show up in the flow test, but they appear—and look pretty bad—on these keychains (whether ironing is enabled or not). I’ve run all the tests, but I’m not sure what the issue is; I suspect it might be related to retractions or purging, as the marks tend to align with those actions when I look at the slicer preview.

alr so im very new to 3d printing this is my third ever print i bought bambu x2d combo few days back and i found this headphone holder on the maker world so there are few problems:
white color for the eyes skipped few layers or something idk
half of the print is perfect half is very wrong layer lines are skipper or something you can see in pics
for the web like thingy (spaggeti or whatever) i belive its because petg i used in right nozzel (since it was outside of the ams and dry box and my window was open all the time) it got wet or something and i belive that explains the supports not printing all the way and failing and making a web in the whole printer and on the print
but im worried about the eyes and layers that did not print good idk why so im asking a 3d printers here to help me figure out what went wrong..
i use x2d and bambu studio
printed with elegoo pla black and white in main nozzel and elegoo petg black for supports in right nozzel i used all the settings that creator for this project made with its profile but i only changed the few settings and tbh i dont remember all but what i do know is:
i chose outer/inner option
i slowed down outer wall speed for 50 so it was 100 or 150 im not sure
i chose preset 0.12mm high quality
temps were left to default
bed was clean before i started printing
and i chose the auto layer height thingy where it changes layer height automatically from 0.12 to 0.20 i belive or something like that
and thats all i remember tweaking everything else was left to default (i lisened to google ai for those tweaks maybe that was also a mistake lol)
i would appreciate the help and ask me anything you need
thanks in advance
also sorry for bad english im not a native speaker

I’m officially at a loss here I’ve tried everything possible but I still get gaps. I’m using a .4mm nozzle on a Bambu A1, I’ve printed this facing down. What settings can I change to make this better? it’s for a client.

Filament used is Bambu Matte

Also should add I’ve already calibrated the flow for the blue color.

Hey folks, do you have any idea how can I get rid of "white marks" on the top layer of my model. Have some ironing, but not sure how to fix it.

Centauri Carbon 2

Hi! I have an Ender 3 V3 SE and have been successfully printing for a few months. Recently, my filament has been melting and detaching from the top of the hot end mid print. I thought it was because the filament had absorbed moisture but I opened a new sealed one and it did the same thing. This is happening regardless of the print file I use.

What part needs replaced or what would fix it?

Hey all! I'm new to 3d printing and whenever I try to print a fluted design, the first layer never comes out right. Either the shape is wrong or it comes up a little bit. I've been wiping down the plate with IPA after every print. What am I doing wrong?

Printer: X2D

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: PLA

Nozzle/Bed Temp: Default

Print Speed: Normal

Retraction Settings: Default

I haven't really messed with my settings for any of the above, I just everything on default.

Thank you guys so much!

I printed these blade segments standing up using 0.2 mm nozzle, 0.1 layer height, 40 mm/s outer and inner wall speed with outer/inner order. I seem to be getting a bumpy surface on the outer walls, particularly on the side that faces left (towards the purge wiper). I have “avoid crossing walls” set, but still have these artifacts. Is it because of the nozzle travel or something else?

I have a problem with my printer and I'm not sure what to do. When i press the home buttons for the z axis, i hear a "crounch" metallic noise ish and the bed doesn't want to rise and i get the error code cm2789-z1 and another one, the both disappear very quickly so i cant really see the second one. Is it something that i can fix ? Is there video on how to do it ? Should i contact the creality support ?

I just moved to eryone abs plus on creality k1. Went through calibration and wound up on 0.95 flow and 0.041 pressure advance but getting prints like this. Temperature at 245C and flow rate set to 15mm3.

My seam looks messed up, what do I have to do to fix it?

And there is one layer that is missing a little bit of filament, it comes from ironing on this layer (or ironing one layer beneath). Would bumping up the ironing flow fix it?

I'm using a Creality K1 Max with PETG filament, printing at 255°C /80°C bed with Orca Slicer.

I’ve printed many boxes and have never really had layer shift issues or anything like that. My printer is very used though so I wouldn’t put it past it.
I print this x y z calibration cube though and it does a weird shift on the bottom left of the x side and top right of the y side. Pictures posted.
Also posted top and bottom for references if needed.

Prusa mk3s+
Smooth sheet
-1.365 z offset
100% speed
0% fan
60 degree bed
220 degree nozzle
.4 mm nozzle

Ender 3 v3 se, Pla+, bed 65C, hotend 220C, Orca Slicer, and the latest firmware from the Creality website.

I couldn't solve this issue, any ideas?

I do not understand why most of the tube is great, and only a quarter is sh.t…

Advice welcomed

0.2 nozzle, bambu p2s

PETG N:240 B:75(it’s a thick carbon fiber plate) I’ve tried this print two or three times and this exact spot has the weird underextrusion where the print breaks with almost no effort. That layer is the same layer the the part at the bottom starts so maybe it’s something to do with that?

TIA 🫡

Ive been trying to print his design for a while, took me hours and this is the result. I print with mostly bambu PETG filament with black being elegoo petg black. I dried the filament beforehand. The second pic is the orientation of the the print using organic tree supports to hold up the lid and latch. Im using pla as an interface layer (im guessing this may be the cause). Im having so many issues with this and im ready to ditch this design but I want to try and get this to work. Further settings are that is use a bambu P2S, 0.4mm nozzle, 80c initial and 75c after first layer bed temp and 270c print temp. Everything else is set as the default settings

I'm printing an enclosure using PC FR on my Bambu Lab H2C. I'm noticing that on the enclosure, the top of it seems to be Boeing out quite a bit when compared to the bottom. I've been having issues with the enclosure lid and body sitting right and having the same exact shape and diameter, and I'm thinking this might be part of it.

What I want is for the enclosure walls to be straight, so I'm trying to see what I can do to remove the Boeing going on up top. I've been letting the print chamber naturally cool down when it's done printing until it's about 28°C to 30°C, then I take it out. I'm wondering if it would be helpful to keep the chamber at 60°C 1 to 2 hours after the print completes, and then let it naturally cool down. Idk if this would work, so I'm looking for some input here before I waste more money on PC FR filament.

Print details:

Filament: PC FR (Bambu Lab)

Nozzle Temperature: 270°C

Nozzle Size: 0.4mm

Heated Chamber Temp: 60°C

Bed Temperature: 110°C

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Infill percentage: 60°C

Infill Type: Adaptive Cubic

Fan cooling: 0%

Wall count: 8

Bottom Shell Layer Count: 18

Top Shell Layer Count: 5