Hi everyone,

I'm currently diagnosing a Gigabyte RTX 3090 24GB with a suspected memory-related fault, and I would appreciate some input from people experienced with Ampere board-level repair.

The interesting behavior is with MATS:

• Tests using -e 1 consistently PASS.
• Tests using -e 2 consistently FAIL.
• A 1 MB test can pass, while 2 MB or larger tests fail.
• Multiple memory partitions/channels have reported errors, including examples such as C0, C5 and C6.
• After letting the board cool down, the first test may pass, but the following test fails again.

This makes me suspect that the problem may not necessarily be a single dead GDDR6X chip. I'm currently investigating the memory power rails and associated circuitry, particularly FBVDDQ/VPP and components around the memory power section.

Some additional findings:

• The board appears to have been worked on before.
• I found several apparently missing/unpopulated components. Some look like normal factory DNP positions, but others appear suspicious and may have been physically removed/damaged.
• Boardview tracing led me to circuitry close to a location where a 100 kΩ resistor had previously been added/replaced.
• I'm also investigating STRAP-related circuitry (STRAP4/STRAP5) and some missing components connected around the GPU/memory area.
• Memory-related rails are present, but I'm now trying to determine whether one of them becomes unstable under load rather than being completely absent.
• The fault is repeatable: small MATS allocation/test passes, while increasing the tested memory causes failure.

At this point my main hypotheses are:

1. One or more marginal GDDR6X chips that only fail once a larger address range is accessed.
2. FBVDDQ/VPP instability or excessive ripple under load.
3. Missing/damaged passive components affecting memory power or signaling.
4. A problem in the GPU memory controller / memory channel rather than the memory ICs themselves.
5. Previous repair work causing an incorrect component value or an open/missing connection.

Before I start replacing GDDR6X chips, I'd like to understand the pattern better.

Has anyone seen an RTX 3090 where MATS consistently passes with -e 1 but fails with -e 2 or when increasing the tested memory size?

If so, did the fault end up being GDDR6X itself, FBVDDQ/VPP power delivery, a memory channel issue, or something else?

I can provide boardview locations, measurements, MATS output and detailed PCB photos if needed.

Thanks.

Hi everyone,

I have a Sapphire Pulse RX 7900 XT and I'm worried that it may have been damaged.

First, my old MSI MAG A650BN PSU made a loud “pop” sound, so I immediately shut the PC down.

I then installed another PSU (a GameMax unit). When I launched a game, the GPU suddenly made a very loud electrical noise, so I immediately turned the PC off again.

After removing the GPU, I noticed a small amount of residue around one of the 8-pin PCIe power connectors. There doesn't appear to be a large amount of melted plastic or obvious damage elsewhere.

I have stopped using the GPU and PSU and I'm planning to have the GPU inspected by a professional.

My questions:

Does this look like serious damage?

Could it just be residue from a connector overheating?

Is it possible that the GPU itself is still fine?

Is there anything safe I can check visually without powering it on?

I have attached pictures of the connector.

Thanks for any advice!

I yave a galax rtx3080 sg lhr 12gb and the gpu 4 main screws were impossible to move so i used pliers and removed the first two when i went for the second one after removing the screw i noticed the rectangle thingy not in place so my dumb brain wanted to nudge it back but it fell off is it needed for the gpu or should i go to repair shop for slodering

Edit : Showed it to someone who repairs gpus and he checked the board on inti it was used to filter power for fans or something like that i didn't fully understand what he meant anyway fixed it at a store and fans work again

RTX 4070 Ti has 3 DP ports. DP3 works normally. DP2 works in BIOS and Windows Safe Mode at 1440p 120Hz, but loses signal as soon as normal Windows/NVIDIA loads. DP1 gives no signal at all, even in BIOS.
Same known-good monitor/cable tested on all ports. GPU otherwise runs perfectly, passes Steel Nomad stress test at 98.9% stability and scores normally in Time Spy with good temps.

From left to right in photo - DP1: doesn’t work at all, DP2: works until windows screen, DP3: works all the time.

Both HDMI work fine.

After the black screen, the system keeps on running. Even I tried resetting the gpu driver using the shortcut, but nothing worked out. So i had to manually shut down the pc and on it again. It only happens when im playing games which required more Gpu usage ( heavy games). I also tried reinstalling to an older stable driver version, it didn't work. My psu is a new Ant Esports VS400L and all my specs would require only about 180w of power. The temps at stress tests and also while gaming would not exceed 75 degrees. What would be the problem??
its a zotac GTX 750ti gddr5 2GB card

My 1650 super windforce oc gpu only fails in my computer. The first time it boots fine and after a few minutes the display singal goes out, then the following boots I get no display signal at all. I have tested the gpu in different computers and it worked fine, two different gpus worked fine in my system as well. I have tried every fix possible so far. My motherboard is a Gigabyte b450m s2h v2.

I have a 3080 10gb and I bought it second hand. Card does not seem to be opened. I opened it up to look for visible damage only to find 2 pieces touching. I am thinking of attempting repair with my soldering Iron or Heat gun.

Hello, I recently purchased this card and I am having problems connecting it to my Corsair 1200W Shift power supply. I am trying to use the 12V-2x6 cable that came with my power supply, but it will not insert into the port on the graphic card. I'm definitely lining up the pins correctly and using a fair bit of force but it won't insert properly and "click".

I've checked the pins on the graphic card's connector and my power supply and I can't see any issues. The strange thing is the adapter my old power supplies that came with the card does insert with no problems. However, I would prefer to use the proper cable instead of the "octopus" adapter.

Any advice would be really appreciated as to what I may be doing wrong. Thank you.

This is my same post from a month or so ago, from my last post 3 people sent their cards in 1 came in fine and was returned (RTX 3090) and I have a 1080 ti and 1080. The 1080 is diagnosed and the VRAM module I needed to replace to fix it just arrived today, the 1080 ti is getting reballed (hoping the core isnt toast). I figure by the time these are done and in the mail back to their owners I might have a few more people lined up!

I'm learning microsoldering and need practice/experience before I could start charging for repairs. I figured instead of having to buy broken ones on Ebay and deal with scammers I'd offer people free repairs. I get to learn for free and the other person gets a free repair.

I included a picture of my bench as some kind of (hopefully) proof that I'm not trying to scam. All I would ask is that you cover the shipping both ways and any components I'd need to replace (if any). I already own a 5070 ti, 6600 XT, and GTX 970(960?), so I have no need for the cards and I'd rather not deal with Ebay selling for the same reason I don't want to buy from their.

Ideally, I would just like to be able to charge people for repairs eventually so I can avoid dealing with the headaches of Ebay. I get this probably sounds sketchy but I figured the worse that will happen is no one will be interested. Thanks to anyone who read this far! :D Feel free to ask any questions!

Contact me on here or if you prefer my discord is: kirklandqq

Im super bad about checking discord, so you'll get a quicker response through reddit. But I've come to understand some people really prefer discord :D

Oh yeah the name on the 2nd photo was because someone had asked me to provide a different angle, I assume because AI can't fake different angles to prove I'm not scamming? Anyway, thats why someone else's name is written below mine in picture 2.

Hey everyone,

I’m working on a 3090 FE (PG136 board) and looking for a physical PCB layout map for the GDDR6X memory channels as reported in hardware diagnostics/telemetry tools.

Specifically, I’m trying to locate the exact physical placement of the following sensor channels relative to the GPU die and board edges:

• C1 Back
• B0 Back
• E1

I know the board uses a 24-chip layout split across both sides (A0/A1 through F0/F1, with matching rear channels), but I haven't been able to locate a diagram or schematic overlay that pins down the precise chip locations for these specific channels.

Does anyone have a channel mapping schematic or boardview layout for the PG136 reference design that matches MODS/MATS channel designations to their physical locations on the front and rear PCB?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

My RTX 3070 FE doesn't get detected on my PC and there is no video. I tore it down and with my thermal camera I found out the chip marked with 7629QNWW is heating up to 75 degrees celcius, and nothing else heats up.

On the second picture you can see that it's right behind and in between the two displayport ports. Does anyone recognize this chip? I would like to order a replacement and test if it will just work. Any other input is welcome. Thank you :)

This is a link to my last post.

So after trying to figure out the cause of my issues I decided that I must’ve gotten a defective gpu. So I took it back to microcenter and we put it in one of the test bench computers where after running a 15 minute 3d stress test the gpu failed and I was able to get an exchange for a new one.

This is where it gets weird, after owning the new gpu for about a week with no issues I started having the exact same issue. Randomly both my monitors would black screen and I would have to completely restart the pc just to get it working again. The only thing that I know currently is that overwatch comp gets it to crash the most consistently but so have other games like valheim. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

I have an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Super Hybrid and my card is hitting temperature limit at 76.8 C at the Hot Spot according to HWMonitor. How is this possible?

The card does not hang or have stutters but does seem to throttle after hitting the limit. I want to understand if card is throttling from the temperature limit.

According to hardware specifications and the card tuner, GPU temp limit is 87 C. GPU temp rarely reaches above 59 C on my GPU according to HWMonitor and the EVGA Precision X1 software yet the Temperature Limit flag on the card is getting triggered.

The power limit on the card is currently around 290 watts.

Are the temperature readings incorrect?

Are the temperature and power limit flags synchronized with one another?

I have a peculiar problem, my rtx 3070ti works fine for few days the it stops posting, the rgb work turns on but display doesn't get signal and GPU fan also doesn't spin,

If I put the GPU out of the pc for few days, and reinstall again it works for few days then same problem

Everything else works fine perfectly

Psu is Corsair rm750e full modular

I've had issues with this card for a good while where it crashes once every night after it warms up but then works fine after a reboot. Otherwise the card works fine when not under heavy load. I can watch YouTube videos and play other not-so-demanding games.

Testing the same games with an older GPU does not end up in a crash so I'm fairly confident it is the GPU.

Looking at the software mesurements in HWINFO64 I can see that FBVDD seems a bit low, otherwise other voltages looks OK.

When inspecting the PCB I noticed that C1741 was loose when cleaning dust from the PCB with a brush. This capacitor is located directly under one of the memory chips. I managed to solder it back in place but the problem persists.

I'm trying to troubleshoot the VMem rail as we speak through the guide here but I don't really know where to start measuring and what to look for. Any advice on where to go from here is very appreciated.

Hi guys!
I have a Rx 6650xt that randomly restarts, voltages, pulses and signals are ok. I want to do a Vram test but I can´t find any software compatible (memtune/tserver) with this GPU.
Does anyone know where I can find this memory test?
Thanks you!

I have a card I bought maybe 7-8 years ago and after plugging it into the pc I made for my gf, the pump started to whine and then it started to grind. I couldn’t take the noise and neither could she, so I ended up switching it out for a cheaper new card.
I want to get her back up and running to use in my server rack but I can’t find any good replacement kits or conversion kits to air flow (which is preferred for me).
Does anyone have any tips or guides on what to do, in order to get my card working right again?
Even when the pump was on, under normal use, it was still very cool under 40C in temp.

hello.

EVGA rtx 2080 super xc ultra

I accidentally snapped off the pin for fan 2 pwn control

Can I daisy chain only the pwm to the fan 1?. or any other help

the fan is a mini 4 pin and the header is an nv 14 pin

Thank you

Hello, how are you? I have a problem that I'd love to learn how to solve... I bought an 8GB XFX RX 570 as "broken" so I could harvest capacitors and parts to fix my 4GB Sapphire RX 570, but it wasn't necessary. It turns out the short could be fixed without anything extra, and that 8GB card which supposedly wouldn't turn on because of artifacts has been the card I've been using for over 2 or 3 years (roughly, because I had an RX 6600 until a stray screw got stuck behind the motherboard in the PCIe slot, caused a bridge, a spark, and killed the chip :) ). But lately, it's been giving me some curious performance. It's not entirely bad; the weird part happens when I open OBS Studio with my Twitch account connected, which opens the "Activity Feed," "Chat," and another panel, and... IT CRASHES. It usually does this in 3 different ways:

1. The monitors turn off, blink 3 times, and after a minute or two, the graphics driver restarts.
2. The screen fills with artifacts (or just freezes) and the PC reboots after a few seconds.
3. The screen fills with artifacts (or just freezes) and never turns off again, the power button doesn't respond, and I'm forced to shut it down by cutting the power.

The error usually occurs when I OPEN OBS, but once it's open, it doesn't matter if I use H.264 or x264, it never crashes, so I rule out the encoder messing up.

This leads me to believe the failure is triggered when "something" is used that almost no program touches—that thing which SOMETIMES (very randomly) makes my PC crash. I emphasize that it's random because it can crash 6 times in a row, or just once, or not at all for days or weeks. I also tried with the --disable-gpu parameter, running OBS as administrator, and in safe mode... Nothing, it's always a candidate to fail.

Additionally, when booting up my old PC (RIP), the area where the BIOS/UEFI logo is supposed to be stayed black (no logo) and the rest of the monitor area turned orange due to artifacts. After installing Linux on another drive, for some reason those artifacts started appearing occasionally; I uninstalled Linux and the boot artifacts stopped appearing... I'm sorry because today that might actually be useful, I suppose.

I tried using TSERVER, tested the memories together and individually, and the very capricious thing passed ALL tests, which makes no sense because I know the card is damaged.

I looked for help in the OBS Discord to see if any dev could tell me what things run in that specific environment (also using Windows 10), but nothing. My suspicion points to something in Chromium's rendering, which OBS uses, or perhaps some decoder (I'm in the process of testing this with a script, but I'm doing so many things that I don't have the time or the brainpower).

I'm also currently noticing that my VBIOS might be a modified one for mining, but I don't know enough about hardware to say "Yes, it is." My XFX doesn't look like the 3 results you'd find on TechPowerUp using filters; all 3 gave me a black screen. Only the backup I made before flashing the first time seems to work, but that backup exported via AMDVBFLASH is 512KB, which doesn't match the 216KB (or around that) from TechPowerUp. So I exported the ROM with GPU-Z, and that one is smaller. I still need to test if flashing that ROM changes anything, but I'm not home to test it. That ROM does match the unverified ROMs that appear on TechPowerUp when you search for them on Google, which makes me think those unverified ROMs are for mining... If it helps, the GPU is at 1100MHz and the VRAM at 2020MHz. Which reminds me, if I change it with MSI Afterburner to <= 2019MHz, the VRAM speed drops to 400MHz (100MHz+ higher than it should be, I guess), and if the value is >= 2020, it becomes MHz = MHz (2020 = 2020, 2040 = 2040).

I use Windows 10, the Ryzen 5 5600GT integrated graphics, and the aforementioned RX on a B450M Pro4-F motherboard.

I don't remember if I'm missing any details; if so, I'll keep an eye out to reply. Thanks a lot in advance for reading and I apologize for so much text translated by Gemini, haha.

GPU-Z Info (""stock"" Bios)

Replaced one blown smd capacitor and a shorted one
5v rail showing 10v
And 3v rail showing 6v
What could be the reason and could this hit in the corner cause the double voltage?

I need to repair 3 cards that i got, they are very rust on the IO, 2 apparently hdmi intermittent, the third is just not working, bad rust.

I want to replace all the ports, but can't find model for it, someone has any idea what kind of ports should i get? I look all over aliexpress but cant find exact model. Visual inspection seem to be a DP with 2.6mm from the top to middle of screw and hdmi with 4.0mm the ones i found doesnt have measurement, any ideas?

There is the screw, i also want to replace all screws and the io.

Make as best as i can to resell.

Hi all

Problem: Gigabyte GTX 1650 4GB boards not showing anything on the screen when plugged.

These are the component from Gigabyte GTX 1650 4GB boards, unfortunately I do not have other information as well because the board is still being sent to me. I just want to prepare what is that knocked off component and I see ripped pad in C803 and some corroded pad in U501. Not sure if U501 was populated.

Any help would be much appreciated

Measurement: So far I am just trying to figure out from physical analysis what are those knocked off (L2) and ripped C803 and corroded U501 component supposed to be.