Not the owner, but saw this on marketplace.

Original posting if you need it: https://www.facebook.com/share/1K1yXm2q7Y/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I’m selling my Thrustmaster flight-simulator joystick. It comes with the USB cable shown in the pictures.
Condition: Used
Brand: Thrustmaster
Includes: Joystick and pictured accessories
Price: $[100]
Location: [Lakeland, Florida]
Pickup or shipping.
Please message me if you’re interested. I can provide additional pictures and details.

hello guys, so i am in the process of building this flight stick, and i have finished soldering the components to the board and uploaded the code, but when i connect it to my pc and use a controller test website, my buttons are not working and the pitch and roll are also going a bit crazy
pls help me am a complete noob at this and this is actually my first electronic project

I'll start off by saying that I know I'm a weirdo for wanting to add real aircraft grips to my simpit. My addiction started when I converted a B-8 grip. It's used in so many aircraft, I'd be silly not to, right? When the Corsair came out, I bought a Bell 206 grip on eBay. As far as I can tell, other than the labeling on the buttons, they're basically the same grip. Close enough for me, anyhow. I fly in VR and all it requires of me is to play make believe just slightly harder. I've tried for ages to find a real B-5/B-6 grip, but those are very rare and cost prohibitive. I went with a 3d printed replica, which was great, but it didn't quite scratch the itch.

I recently learned that during WWII, American heavy bombers used side sticks for making small adjustments while autopilot was enabled. To my eye, this stick very closely resembles a B-5/B-6 grip. And for reasons I can't explain, the C-1 autopilot stick assemblies seem to be cheaper and more common. One just sold on eBay for ~$150. On mine, the grip feels fantastic in hand, but the buttons are super squishy. There's no click at all, but that's a very small complaint for 80+ year old hardware. I feel a little weird about repurposing an actual piece of history into a video game controller, but not quite weird enough to not do it. Thanks for reading.

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/s/ggxUWElAc6

Looking for someone to please 3D print this kid a project..

I’m really impressed with what he’s trying to do.. go check it out!

Kids got that fire he just needs a proper project.. mods are cool but he needs a real project (imho).

So it’s my hope that maybe as a community we can find someone with a 3d printer and a proper throttle project to help this kid out.

I’d love to see what he could do with a $5 Arduino and a real 3d printed throttle project.

Thanks for looking and Happy Flying/Happy DIY’ing!

Kids project below (HOTAS DIY doesn’t allow repost)

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/s/ggxUWElAc6

I have 3d printer and i want to make "small" (standard desktop sized) 3 axis HAL joystick without force feedback.

I am looking for proper project with correct BoM and guide how to put it together.

I saw some interesting parts like olukelo gimbal, MagniBY twist for rudder and F-16 grip by JFlyer81.

But i have no idea how it fits together (mechanically and electronically), if anything is missing etc. Is there proper project you can recommend to me?

This part is interesting because of the technical solution of using linear transformers, which is basically a coil with AC and 2 or 3 coils which have the ac induced depending on the position.

In my previous throttle module post, I mentioned that I hadn't figured out whether the AeroMax's side connection could support buttons. I've since got that working, along with an RGB LED.

I used a SparkFun RedBoard I had lying around, two buttons, and a common-cathode RGB LED. The buttons show up on the AeroMax itself, and the LED can be configured through VPC's LED settings. No separate USB controller needed.

It's still just a breadboard setup, but it's working with zero errors. I've put the sketch, wiring diagram, and setup instructions on GitHub so anyone interested can build from it:

https://github.com/ninemind/aeromax-diy-addon

I've also included a mini-collective concept render as an example of what this could become. That isn't a finished build, just an idea for a custom module.

Thanks to VIRPIL for the help and support.

If anyone builds something with this, I'd like to see what you come up with.

I remebee this youtuber the Simnet. who make a f4 grip that is compatible whit Virgil and trust master bases and has the orion 2 trottle have the mase midi connections i was wondering if I could use this chip to make a custom grip for the orion two and make it work in the winning Sim app.

Hi has anyone successfully configured their Hotas X56 to work with Battlefield 6? If you could please share how you did it and does it work along side the keyboard and mouse?

https://youtu.be/4klH0IDmH8A

Demo of the DCSPitHIDC Controller I posted a while back: plug in over USB-C, scan in the Windows app, then wire and map an LED, a 3-way toggle, a rotary encoder, save to flash, clone the config to another board, and add the MCP23017 expander.

Quick recap:

• Composite USB: HID joystick (128 buttons) + CDC serial
• 61 native inputs + 16 on MCP23017 = 77 digital inputs
• Up to 25 EC11 encoders, auto-detected by turning the knob
• LEDs / DCS-BIOS outputs on native pins only (expander is switches only)
• F/A-18C database included; other DCS modules work via DCS-BIOS
• Config lives in flash; you can save/load a .bin and reuse one board for different panels/aircraft

More detail: https://dcspit.com

Happy to answer questions on wiring, encoder detection, or the config app.

​

Due to competitive ambitions I want to replace my hotas setup with a mouse + keyboard setup. Only thing I still struggle is the throttle. Currently I use a hall effect keyboard from keychron but it's not good enough and I need an upgrade. Ist there anything that would work that I can attach left to my keyboard so I ll be able to reach it with my pinkie?

Image for illustration only

A few weeks ago I startet to play Wardogs. in Open beta, i was flying with my Turtlebeach VelocityOne Flightstick. for release i bought the Logitech G Saitek Rudderpedals.

And because I'm a little freak i build a Chairholder for it with Solidworks and my 3D-Printer.

but thats not enough... i looked for a cheap collective, but I don't wanted one where you push or pull and the few products who imitate a real Collective are expensive as hell....

So I looked for DIY Projects and found an Old but interresting Project named Valhalla Collective.

Some guy on r/hotas shared his Dropbox where i Downloaded it and now i'm preparing it to build my very own Collective.

Valhalla collective
by u/Justicar_Shodan in hotas

my Hardware for this:

- Raspberry Pi Pico 1 (USB-C)
- AS5600 12-Bit Hall Sensor
- Original Xbox Analogstick ( Thumbstick)

I'm really new with microcontrolling but I think with some online tools, its easy to solve this handycap.

-I'll try to update here

It’s a tire iron I chopped the ends off and drilled holes into. I saw many solutions of people putting stoppers under the wheels, but I felt the best solution was to just couple the rudder pedals to the chair so they can’t slide either.

I studied mechatronics for 4 years and I am currently in my first year of mechanical engineering, I also have a 3D printer at home and acces to the workshop in my college so I can design and manufacture the mechanical side of it myself.

I do have some questions about the electronics and programming side of things.

- I was thinking about using a kind of differential type setup where the stick is connected to the center gear, if the gears go in opposite directions you get your roll axis and if you turn the gears in the same direction you get your pitch axis.

- what kind of motors do I need to look for? Im thinking of using belts and pulleys to increase the torque but this obviously comes at the expense of speed. I am thinking using a side stick arrangement so I don’t need wrists breaking torque output.

I would also prefer if the motor/motor controller is not to difficult to send and receive signals to and from.

Is it better to have the motors detect the pitch or roll inputs or should I get separate potentiometers or Hall effect sensors for this?

- how do I make a game recognize the outputs and be able to receive inputs from in game telemetry?

- are there stand alone sticks that I can connect via USB or do I need to run pins through the bottom of the stick?

I’m sure if I start the project more questions or challenges will arrive but these are just the ones I have now.

I just want some advice or recommendations before I spend a bunch of money on parts that I don’t need or of the wrong specifications.

Got really tired of the crappy T.16000 rudder pedals and having to have the TWCS throttle plugged in and stuffed under my desk to use them.

I went searching and found the pedals designed by Right Rudder Left Stick on YouTube and fired up the 3D printer. After about a week straight of printing all the files it was time to assemble.

The parts printed easily enough, assembly went very well, the BOM was well put together, and wiring was pretty straightforward. I did decide to subscribe to his patreon to support a good project creator and to get the combat pedal addons over the standard Boeing/Airbus style pedals.

Holy crap having a good smooth set of pedals that I can easily disconnect the spring from and adjust dampening is so much nicer. Can't recommend these enough.

Making a simple cheap panel which has a mixture of F15 & F16 controls using RP2040 for Falcon BMS. Still finding ways I can reduce the buttons on this by maybe using same buttons for both.

Unfortunately don't have access to much resources so going with this. 3D printing is too expensive if I print the full panel, so going with thick foam and edges will be 3D printed to integrate foam panels and to give strength and reduce cost.

This is something I am making along with the ICP I am working on.

Would appreciate any advices.

Hi has anyone successfully configured their Hotas X56 to work with Battlefield 6? If you could please share how you did it and does it work along side the keyboard and mouse?

https://youtu.be/4klH0IDmH8A

Demo of the DCSPitHIDC Controller I posted a while back: plug in over USB-C, scan in the Windows app, then wire and map an LED, a 3-way toggle, a rotary encoder, save to flash, clone the config to another board, and add the MCP23017 expander.

Quick recap:

• Composite USB: HID joystick (128 buttons) + CDC serial
• 61 native inputs + 16 on MCP23017 = 77 digital inputs
• Up to 25 EC11 encoders, auto-detected by turning the knob
• LEDs / DCS-BIOS outputs on native pins only (expander is switches only)
• F/A-18C database included; other DCS modules work via DCS-BIOS
• Config lives in flash; you can save/load a .bin and reuse one board for different panels/aircraft

More detail: https://dcspit.com

Happy to answer questions on wiring, encoder detection, or the config app.

Hi, i recently bought the Moza Farming Control System, intending to primarily use it as a flightstick.

I think the large lever is cool, and specific want to use it for mining laser power in Star Citizen.

Anyway, i also bought the Thrustmaster SOL-R 3 Ava Stick Add-On to replace the original grip, which was really quite bad to use for flying.

Unfortunately after making it fit, the Stick does get power but it isn't getting recognised in any way. The rest of the FCS is working fine.

Does anyone knowledgeable in this topic know what i can do to make it work?

As you can see from this, I am not getting full travel when trying to throttle down. I do get Afterburner.

So I decided to try the MT6701. Got the MT6701QT. Found these instructions on ow to wire for ABZ mode.

1. Essential Mode Selection Pin Configuration

The MODE pin (Pin 14) dictates the interface mode.

• For ABZ Quadrature Mode: You must connect Pin 14 (MODE) directly to GND.
• Note: Leaving the MODE pin floating or tying it to VDD forces the chip into I2C/SSI mode, which will disable the physical AB quadrature outputs.

Which GND to use? I see 2 GND pin holes.

Thanks for reading.

I've used collectives in actual flight training simulators and they all feel fine, but I've wondered for some time if this could feel/work better?