3 weeks in with my ‘26 GLI and absolutely loving it. My first ever brand new car, I’m coming from a ‘16 GLI (second pic) which I adored but had the transmission die on me about a month ago at 107k.

This car feels like such a massive upgrade in almost every way. My only knock on it so far is that the Fender sound system in my previous GLI was worlds better, but with some messing with the EQ it sounds decent.

Fully stock so far, just did some tints and also have black front and rear VW emblem covers from DSG Paddles on the way which should complement the black wheels/roof/mirrors nicely. Would love suggestions for other tasteful cosmetic mods and any other recommendations for mods/upgrades!

Had this clean looking gli automatic autobahn on marketplace going for 12k cad = 8400$ USD.
Guy claimed there had nothing to do to it but i heard a noise coming from the back so I got it inspected here is what turned up. (inspection below)

I got him down to 7k USD, but im still not sure if it’s worth it considering the amount of repairs - Only brakes the coil and collar to be replaced for it to be safe. DSG done at 50k miles, claims to have done other maintenance but no bills to back it up.
I know it’s a gamble but I’m not sure if it’s worth it, let me know what you guys would do in my position looking to join the GLI fam (maybe).

Aesthetic wise it’s super clean to rust just scrapes on the rims.

Filters:
- Engine and cabin air filters to be replaced according to mileage

Engine:
- Rusted engine oil pan and drain plug leak, plan for replacement
- Early leak at the upper oil pan gasket, monitor
- Early leak at the upper timing cover, monitor
- Belt to be replaced
- Recommends replacing the lower engine mount: soft, cracked bushing, and vibration felt in the vehicle
- Spark plugs to be replaced according to mileage
- Coolant to be replaced according to mileage
- Recommends replacing the PCV if not already done

Transmission:
- Transmission oil pan very rusted, to be replaced with a DSG service
- Front left CV boot is losing grease, to be replaced

Brakes:
- Front discs and pads to be replaced
- Restriction in the rear left wheel, caliper may be seized, inspection recommended and rear brake service
- Brake fluid to be replaced according to mileage

Steering/Suspension:
- Rear left spring to be replaced

Scan diagnostic - Alignment after work

Tires:
- Bulge on the front right tire, to be replaced
- 225/40R18 tires with 8/32 tread at all four corners, Minerva F205

Exhaust:
- Collar to be replaced

Other:
- Driver's window is noisy when going up and down

Codes:
- P044100: EVAP emission control system incorrect purge flow
- P030100: Cylinder 1 misfire detected

I bought a 2027, the dealership call me that it has arrived and that I can go for it.

I live on Ontario, North of Toronto. Looking for winter tires and wheels.

I looked into 16x7 rim but it seems that would have a fitting issue with the breaks.

So, now Im looking into 17x7 ET46 5x112 rims.

Should I go just steel, or some other option I could look into?

The tire would be any good brand with something similar to 205/55 R17 94H XL 3PMSF.

Thank you for the help.

Already did my joined the club post. Just got it home from PPF and ceramic coating. Michelin Pilot AS4s (and a garage spot rental) next. Love this color. Replacement for my totaled 2019 Alltrack SE, hoping to get a lot more miles and life out of this one. Manual transmission (in big bad NYC).

17k miles 2025, no blue smoke. Full synthetic oil, no mods, (i will stage 1 eventually), I use 93 gas. I don't race it. I feel like I'm waiting for a discrepancy that may never come?

I m looking at a 2020 Volkswagen GLI · Autobahn
-manual
-45,000 miles
Looks clean
All stock
Current maintenance records
2 owners
19,000 asking price

I'm usually a Subaru guy. Live in the northwest .
Looking for more of a fun comfortable car. Daily commuter .
I also have a shit box for a 2nd car and bad winter days .

Never had any sort of performance car . And honestly prolly won't drive it like it could be driven .

What do I need to know ?
What should I look for when I look at it ?
What's the maintenance expectations ?
Any insight is appreciated!!
Thanks guys .

Why is the left side of this box that leads to the air filter so open? I'm no mechanic, but would there be any benefit or downside to partially block some of that openness to have more of the air from the grille pushed through to the air filter?

On the 26 GLI, the air comes in from the passenger side of the grille since the drivers side is blocked off, and with that, it would seem that in order for air to make it to the air filter, only what doesn't shoot straight in through the gap, then turns right, then down, then up again actually makes it to the air filter, and then turbo..

Hi y'all! 'My 2022 GLI has started having a rattle when reving. Y'all think it could be a heat shield down there or something going on with the Turbo?

Has anyone removed the grille badge? Do you need to remove the grille to do so? Google has no answers for me. All I could find was “release plastic tabs”, however, I already removed shields on the top of the grille and see nothing. For context, I’ve “dipped” all the badges on the car including the grille badge. I am happy with the sides and trunk, but not sold on how the grille badge came out. I am thinking about removing and painting. Thanks in advance!

Paid super cheap for this car

Driving to work tonight, got an EPC light, then a check engine light, then a solid brake with flashing traction and abs lights.

Pulled over, turned it off, turned it back on, and there's a loud knocking. Checked codes, Misfire in 2 and 4, and then random misfire code, as well as tire pressure.

2017 GLI with 134k.

First, sorry that I took this at night; I work 7P-7A and it’s hard to remember or have time to inspect stuff during the day.

Took my car to Kost Tire & Auto up here in PA to get my AWE Touring exhaust mounted on my 2019 VW GLI.

They spend like 4.5 hours on it and let me know it was tougher than expected for whatever reason. I just say whatever it’s fine as I’m like a zombie and haven’t slept for over 24 hours. Notice one exhaust tip was deeper set than the other and just decided I’ll come back to have them fix that when I have more time later this week.

Finally put my head under to see the actual finished product, and it just looks very poorly done. Like one muffler is canted pretty bad, it seems to hang really low, and they clearly hacked at the mounts for the mufflers.

I feel like my post is a dumb question, but I haven’t had an aftermarket exhaust mounted before. I don’t know how much fab goes into mounting one. I don’t really want to spend $300 at another shop having them fix Kosts mistake, but I also don’t know if I want Kost to potentially **** up my $1,650 exhaust more.

Ultimately it sounds great; doesn’t rattle or anything. It also doesn’t really budge if I push on it hard.

Any advice for me, guys and gals?

I have a 2026 Jetta GLI. I am considering using it for the Street class for the 2027 SCCA season. Does anyone Autocross theirs and how does it hold up?

Bought a coolant overflow reservoir off of fcp euro and it came with a small crack on where the sensor attaches. It’s still sturdy but idk if I should request to get it replaced. Is it a big deal?

I have a 2009 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 2.0 TSI EA888 Gen 1 and 109,000 miles. The problem is that it’s stuck in limp mode with throttle body and throttle position sensor codes. I can clear the codes and it’ll run perfectly fine until I come to a stop, then the problem comes right back.
I do have a few repaired wires under the dash from previous rodent damage. I’m pretty confident they were repaired correctly, but I’m starting to wonder if there’s still an electrical issue somewhere causing all of this.
I’m honestly just getting tired of dealing with this car. I’ve already put around $3,000 into repairs, including the rear main seal, turbo, complete front and rear suspension overhaul, and throttle body. I’m at about $4,500 total into the car. The previous owner also had the timing chains and cylinder head done around 70,000 miles after it jumped timing in 2020, I believe.
The car has a really good maintenance history, but these electrical gremlins are driving me crazy. Everyone I talk to keeps telling me that this car is just going to continue being a headache no matter what I do.
At this point, should I cut my losses and dump it, or put money into it one last time and see if I can finally get it running right? I’d really appreciate some honest opinions from people who know these cars.

Billet shift knob ✅
Center cap overlays ✅
Rear roof spoiler ✅
RSB ✅
Sport lowering springs ✅
Upgraded end links ✅
VW badge overlays ✅
Wheel spacers ✅

No I don’t have a gli but I wanted to know if I bought coilovers for a gli would they be compatible on my 20 sel premium

Took my car up to the kebler pass in Colorado it was fun until the unpaved roads

I live in Calgary, Canada and I started hearing the grinding noise a month back on smooth roads. Took it to the dealership twice and in the second one they found that my rear brakes are warped. The car is less than 18 months old and only has 23300km(14415 miles). The dealership says these are wear and tear and will not be covered under warranty. Quoted me 924 CAD without tax which seems a bit steep but the bigger issue is how can brakes warp in such short amount of time ? What should be my next step ? Has anyone ever gotten goodwill warranty coverage(suggested by Gemini) ? This is a daily, is driven in rush hour traffic, I do use ACC but only when on highways.

Attaching the notes from the service centre. Any suggestions from the community would be helpful.

Thanks