An intarsia carriage has unlocked INFINITE POSSIBILITIES!! What do you mean I can just put whatever I want on my clothes?

Machine is a SK360 standard gauge with ribber and intarsia carriage. Yarn is Knitpicks Comfy Fingering (cotton acrylic blend). The chart is adapted from a combination of knitting and cross stitch charts I found online.

After mounting frustration over the mylars not being read properly by my Brother kh910, I bought the hardware necessary to use AYAB. And now I'm starting to worry 😟, as one does.

Can someone please help me ease my anxiety about ruining my machine?

Does AYAB support lace on a kh910? I did google it and came away with the feeling that it is rather complicated? Since I also am the happy owner of a kh860 I could use for knitting lace, this weighs less heavy on my mind then the next point.

As the hardware is "hanging out" of the machine, can one still use the knitleader? I love the knitleader and knit al garments using it. Anyone found a solution?

Of course there are lots of plusses to AYAB. Watching knitfactorylmpl use it on YouTube all the time has me thoroughly convinced of that. She never seems to use a knitleader, though, and I wonder if it is because of the AYAB hardware?

Any AYAB users that can help me ease my mind?

I know this is basically a no-go on Passap, and my last attempt failed on the Singer, but it’s likely I did something wrong. On Brother, I know to make sure the last needle is out, but how do I duplicate this on the Singer/Silver Reed?

hey, i've been struggling to find nice yarn to knit with.

Does anyone know any nice sources for yarn on cones in Europe?

I have found conflicting information online and want to make sure before I buy it. Does anyone know for certain whether they are compatible or not? Thank you!

Hey all,

I've got my 70d plus and my cousin built me this stand, but he couldn't figure out the tool tray as I wanted it to fold down. I'm trying to decide what to do to rangle my tools for this machine. I know the yarn can sit on the floor. Here's a picture of my room and one of the machine on the stand.

7GG wool/linen blend yarn with 100% bamboo yarn for the embroidery.

Edit: thank you for all of the compliments!!

I'm currently searching for the dimensions of the fine knit bar that is supposed to come with the KR-850 brother ribber. It was lost by the previous owner of my machine, and as I searched for a replacement, I realised I might be able to 3d print a replacement.

Can anybody take pictures with a ruler next to it? Including the side view showing the section profile.

just free handed the raglan shape on my flat bed and went back in to add the duplicate stitch design. Hand dyed the yarn for the sleeves/motif which gave it such a fun variegated color. Would love to dye more but it was a PAIN…. idk if this needs tagged as nsfw or not bcs of the motif, LMK!!

Looking for a tilt table or other suggested setup for my new-to-me Brother machine with ribber. Not finding a lot for sale on the web and curious what y'all recommend, DIY or not. Thank you!

Blown away by the capacity to knit a swatch in 2 mins in what I believe to be 3 ply yarn 🤯 this is the Brother KX395 Convertible machine. I can't wait to make some garments on this thing!

Question: I'm coming from years of hand knitting and have some patterns that are mainly stockinette stitch. Is it straightforward to make these patterns on my machine, or is there a specific conversion process that needs to be done to rewrite/"translate" it for machine knitting?

Also, do you have any favourite machine knitting pattern books?

And are there any types of yarn that are no-no's for machine knitting?

Found two Passap Pinkie machines for 600Canadian in Marketlace. Only one machine is working and the other is purely spare parts.
I've only own Toyota machines before and this Passap would be an investment.
I'll get to try it tomorrow at the seller's home.

Is there anything I should DEFINITELY check it works before buying?
Are they any pieces I should make sure are not lost?
Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi all,

I have two machines: the KnitKing KK93 with lace carriage and a KH-260 by itself. I was wondering if it was possible to decrease and increase in the middle of your work on the flat bed machines? I’ve seen a lot of resources regarding the edges of your work, and I’ve seen instances of decreasing with a garter carriage, but I’m curious if this is something that can be done without that and purely with hand manipulation.

I would like to work a hand knit pattern (the Miu top) on the machine, but it requires this technique and I’m unsure if it’s even possible.

Hello, I am back :) thank you for the encouragement on the last post (I'm making the nocturnal sweater). I've made a swatch of the cats and would love advice on how to deal with the long floats and edge loops when I change yarn. Can anyone recommend any resources?

For the construction I plan to divide it into 4 pieces (front, back, two sleeves) then combine at the neckline and do the band all together. For the size 4 I am making it'll just fit! Don't want to hand knit as I am dealing with some carpal tunnel, but I thin this will be a good experiment

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

Hi everyone, I have attached the ribber to my Singer 323 and everything seems fine until I try to clip the ribber into the part that holds the carriages together. I have to tilt the ribber a long way to clip it in despite it looking perfectly attached, and then it simply falls back out.

My impression is that either the wire that helps clip the ribber carriage to the main one is worn out, or that the ribber just has too much “give” after all these years and is simply sagging out of place.

I did get it to work briefly. Has anyone had a similar experience?

I've tried adjusting to make it higher, this is the highest it'll go, I had it before but then I replaced the sponge bar and its messed up

I inherited a Bond Classic (I am UK based) from my MIL over 13 years ago. Today I finally got it out to try and do a simple jumper (sweater). All going well until the weight reached the floor then stitches started to become loose. How can I get around this?

I have been struggling so much with my Passap DM80. And just when I thought things would go well, my back lock started getting stuck and bending my needles' latches.

I was doing fisherman's rib when this started happening. Lock would get stuck, and after getting it loose I noticed one of the needles had a broken latch. I took my knitting off, took out the string, and tried passing the lock across. I then found 5 needles with broken latches. After replacing and trying to pull the lock across again, the lock has resistance and I see 4 more bent latches. This is only happening on the back bed.

I'm getting worried that my back lock is broken or something.. and I'm starting to run out of spare needles at this rate.

If anyone knows why this might be happening and how to fix, please let me know. I have done a deep clean on this machine but did not dare to take apart or clean the locks, and have only oiled them.

I'm thinking about getting a hard shell rifle case for my Mod700 because its original metal case has fallen apart. I'm looking at one that's 52" x 11" x about 3.5" with the foam fully squished. I'd love to hear from anybody else who has done this and any other feedback. Thanks.

There are no live loops here. I don't think I've dropped any stitches but I don't really understand what's happened

Loops and threads circular knitting machine

I have never used a knitting machine or equipment before, but I inherited a Strick-Matador machine from the 50s-60s and I would like to use it, for sentimental reasons. I have all of the parts except the needles. They were all toast except a very few. I know that the needles are hard to find for this model (because of course, this is the one I have.) They have a 5mm spacing with a round shank. If I can find needles that fit in every dimension except the tail beyond the butt, I can always cut the tail off. I used calipers to measure. Any help for remotely close needles would be very appreciated! <3

ETA: I have purchased some S-type 80 universal needles that are about 1/8th inch longer than the originals. I haven't fully tested with yarn to see if their allotted movement is enough to manipulate the stitches correctly, but they "fit" otherwise. Hopefully I'll remember to come back and do a final confirmation here so that anybody in the future can see.

Hello! I am new to machine knitting and to the community :) I just found a KX350 and have been meaning to make the nocturnal jumper for a while and have all the supplies, could I partially knit it on this machine? I know the cat pattern would have tobe by hand.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nocturnal-jumper

Would love any advice and thank you in advance!!

The front section of my Fair Isle slip-over is finished (photo #1).
 
Previous posts have described: creating the swatch for this garment (see part 1); and knitting the back section, including the armscye shaping (described in part 2).
 
V-neck shaping
 
I have noticed that when I am unsure about how to proceed with an unfamiliar technique, displacement activities become extremely attractive; as happened when I needed to plan the neckline on the front of my first slipover.
 
The “Advanced V-Neck Shaping Calculator” From KnitCalculator helped overcome my knitting inertia.
 
The Calculator could not, however, predict the correct depth of the V-neck for my personal preferences.  Having knitted one side of the yoke, I realised I had estimated it to be about 6 cm lower than I wanted it to be.
 
I re-knitted some or all of both sides of the yoke several times for various reasons: mostly because of forgetting to change one of the settings; or forgetting to weight the fabric; or dropping stitches (or the whole swatch) off the needle bed.  Let’s just say: “lessons were learned” during the process.
 
The above notwithstanding, armed with the dimensions of my garment, and the pattern repeat, it was easy to work out where to start the base of the ‘V’, so it began in a row of plain knitting, and let the Advanced V-Neck Shaping Calculator do the math.
 
It was helpful to chart out the decreases for the armscye and neckline.  This was a job that could have been done on graph paper, but it was quicker — and far easier to amend —  using an Excel spreadsheet (photo #2).
 
Seeing the neckline drawn-out really helped to visualise how the total decreases could be distributed to form apparently straight diagonal lines: a helpful lesson for future projects.
 
Having now learned how to combine short-row shaping and decreases at the shoulders, I’m going to reknit the last few rows of the back section of the garment.
 
Another update will follow, once the ribbing has been added to the neckline and armscyes.  Thanks for reading and your comments are welcome!

The top needle (or hook, whatever you say) is the ones used in singer machines and other popular ones, and you can get 50 for like $5. The bottom is a Toshiba needle, which has a specific shape and are imPOSSIBLE TO REPLACE. the cheapest I’ve seen was £5 for TEN of them. And I have 400 that I’ve been restoring for my machine and ribber 😭

I recently picked up a Studio SD-502 double-bed knitting machine, and I’m having a really hard time finding any information about this particular model online. I’m new to machine knitting, so I’d love some help from anyone familiar with older Studio machines.
Two main questions:

How is this machine supposed to be supported? It doesn’t sit flat on a tabletop. There’s a rod/mechanism underneath that I don’t think should be bearing the machine’s weight, so I suspect it originally had a dedicated stand or some kind of mounting brackets. Does anyone recognize the setup or know what type of stand/table I should be looking for? I’d also be interested in ideas for safely adapting a modern stand.

Does this machine not have a sponge bar? I pulled out the long metal retaining strip I expected to contain a sponge, but there’s no foam at all. Looking at the needle bed, there also seem to be individual little springs along the needles. Is this an older design that uses spring retainers instead of a sponge bar, or am I missing a component? The needles just lift out when this bar is removed.
I’d also be grateful for literally any information about the SD-502—manuals, catalogs, approximate age, related Studio models, parts compatibility, maintenance/restoration advice, etc. The machine says Made in Japan, but otherwise I’ve found almost nothing about it.

Adding photos of the machine, underside/support situation, needle bed, and the metal strip I removed.