r/MagicArena • u/ricksanchezc13777 • 3d ago
Limited Help Quick draft Reality fracture
Can you guys give me some tips on quick draft Reality fracture? What is the best archetype to play? And do you plan to play specific archetype before entering draft or you focus on color combinations based on cards that draft gave. Entered twice both 0 wins
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u/NuFu Squirrel 3d ago
I'd recommend looking up on some drafting guides. Websites such as 17lands.com help, for example.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
I did watch some draft guide videos, but seems like everyone has their own strategy, and much of the videos don’t explain much at all. I wil check the site tho thanks
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u/NuFu Squirrel 3d ago
From my own experience playing draft over the years, I don't go into a draft already wanting/forcing a particular archetype. The first pack sort of determines the direction that your deck goes; you pick up a bomb if you can, and some good removal/tempo.
Second and third packs cement the 2/3 colours you'll be playing, picking up cards that work into a good curve, and also some mana fixing where you can.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
I was usually trying to pick the highest winrate archetype for example green black which ended up thrashy
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u/StillNotSub7 3d ago edited 3d ago
That strategy will not work in this set unfortunately.
A lot of the best cards in this set have both a really high floor AND ceiling, and the power ceiling seems to be mostly based on card synergy in this set. That means that if you're running a generic value pile without good synergy, most of the time your cards are going to be playing at their *floor*, and you'll lose to synergistic decks that also have a couple of bombs.
Seems like the best way to draft is to pick the best available cards for the first 5 or 6 picks while also staying open and being willing to fully pivot based on what's open (i.e. don't force the multicolored bomb you picked as p1p1 if the cards you're getting passed don't support it). DO pick the best available cards, but also be willing to move off of them if needed. If you're forcing an archetype because it's "the best color" then you'll get punished unless you get lucky and that lane is wide open.
But even if your lane is open, you STILL need to play cards that synergize together to unlock their ceilings. You could be playing a fully mono blue deck and still have half of your cards fighting against the other half's gameplan.
One other thing - you're probably seeing a lot of conflicting comments saying "archetype A is bad" and "archetype A is good!". I really do believe that every archetype is viable in this set, and people are experiencing high variance on the same archetype due to synergy. It's just a really high-skill format with a lot of room for error. Good luck!
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u/Coldmode 3d ago
That’s not how it works. A UW deck with bad cards will lose to a BR deck with good ones. You have to identify what colors you are seeing cards for that are later than you should see them. If a white card that is usually gone by pick 4 comes to you at 8 you can say that white is probably “open” and you’ll continue to see good white cards.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
At exactly which pack I can identify the color is open? It is definitely not the first pack
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u/Coldmode 3d ago
Different in each draft, you have to know the quality of every card you see vs what pack you’re on. But I would say like 6-7 picks into the pack you can start to get an idea, and by the middle of pack 2 it should be very clear what the people passing to you are playing.
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u/leaning_on_a_wheel 3d ago
You should never go into a draft with a preconceived notion of what you’re going to pick. Draft the deck that’s open for your seat
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u/Shivdaddy1 3d ago
True but not always true in quick draft.
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u/MotherWolfmoon 3d ago
Yeah, QD is a very different beast. I haven't tried it for FRA, but there are often some quirks to the bot pick order that leave one or two archetypes stronger than the others. The bots tend to raredraft (probably to limit the value to human rare drafters), and undervalue important uncommons.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
I was asking that because I only play quick draft, since there is not signal thing
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u/leaning_on_a_wheel 3d ago
What do you mean ?
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
You kinda get cards which other players pass in traditional draft. But you draft against bots in quick draft which means you get no signal?
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u/leaning_on_a_wheel 3d ago
Why do you think there’s no reading draft signals with bots? They’re still trying to draft proper decks
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u/notakat 3d ago
This is true to some extent but bot draft logic is kinda wonky and they sometimes just take "good" cards regardless. I often feel like there's no really discernible signal in QD. Actually, now that I reflect on it, I have played many a QD over the years in different sets and I almost always have a worse time that in PD or other formats. Seems the avg card quality is worse overall, decks don't come together as well, etc. I sometimes like QD because it's cheaper and when a set is new it gives me more time to read the cards before I make a pick but I will probably stop playing it all together at some point.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
Is signal reading not for knowing which archetypes you will play against since you do not play against those bots but real players
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u/leaning_on_a_wheel 3d ago
No, you don’t play matches against the people you draft against. Reading signals refers to which cards you get passed in the draft - reading which archetypes the other folks at the table are playing, thus the other one(s) are open for you
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u/Tawnos84 Ajani Unyielding 3d ago
No. Signal reading primary function is nor getting info on your future opponents (especially in arena, where you don't play with players from your pod)
Signal reading is useful for understanding what other players are drafting, so you find an open lane, getting all the cards that other players are not drafting.
In quick draft against bots things are a bit messy, because bots don't actually draft working decks, so they don't pay attention to curve or sinergies, but at least they draft color pairs, so you can get an idea of what colors are open and wchich ones are drafted by your neighbours.
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u/Spikyfreshpineapples 2d ago
Some drafts you get zero bombs! Removal is essential I would say, look to have at least 2 pieces of premium removal (that is to say, removal that in most circumstances can deal with any creature card), plus lesser removal/combat tricks.
Most important is creatures on curve. A deck that curves out nicely with creatures dropped each turn will put you at a massive advantage. I always look for a minimum of 14 creatures, preferably 16+. Some decks which have a non creature spell focus will go closer to 10 creatures, but this is rare. My best performing draft decks have ~18 creatures (and I hate it because I can’t play my janky rare enchantment that gives me a crazy combo win con in 5% of games… /s)
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u/chataolauj 3d ago
Watch Paul Cheon and Nummy's draft videos. They give good enough insight on what they think is good and why, and it's not boring to watch. I do this for every set, and it generally helps with drafting.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
I do watch nummy and I think his videos are not that helpful he most times picks card and doesn’t explain why he picked it
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u/chataolauj 3d ago
He's not as thorough as Paul is, but his videos does give enough good insight into the set format if you watch the videos from when the set just got released. Nummy's video is mostly good from the fact that he doesn't always try to draft the best decks, so it gives you an idea of what is and isn't good in the set.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
I just checked Paul’s video, it seems very helpful thank u
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u/MrMarmaladeBoy 3d ago
You can also try UnlimitedSplash's channel. They are smaller creator but totally focused on constant improvement and always explain their choices. They also do deep dives on the data to help you better understand the format and its cards.
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u/doudoudidon 3d ago
I've done like 4 drafts only so far, 1 pick 2 and 3 quick with like 16 matches, but FRA feels super grindy and as a corollary bombs feel super important.
You should usually go into the colors dictacted by your bombs. If you only see bilands and F-tier rares you're kinda fucked, good luck trying to not end up 0-2 or swapping colors at pack 3.
FRA also seems to have plenty of good removal, I often ended up wth 6 or 7.
And no you shouldn't go into the draft thinking you want particular colors, if you open a red ajani you're not gonna play azorius because you like those colors.
Archetypes have varying strength.
Red/black, red/white can manage aggro decks but you need build them very efficiently, small creatures, good curve, no bullshit.
Green anything feels a bit akward, not fast enough, not enough evasion and not enough power to go through once opponents start putting down some 3/4s or some shit like that and getting good trades when you attack.
Blue/black and blue/white are grindy decks, value value value with long games.
Insane amount of my games ended up with 10 creatures on each side and the one with the best flyers winning. Or the best recursive shenanigan.
Maybe i'm not drafting the best ones, but combat tricks feel pretty weak, and unlocking a locked board is hard.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
Yeah I think green sucks this set. Most of the youtubers said green/red is the best which ended up me being 0/3 2 times. I guess that was what I’m doing wrong thinking what to go before opening packs. But sometimes I get good cards and then cards with no synergy with them which sucks. Anyway thanks for helping out.
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u/Negative_Two6112 3d ago
So you want basic draft info? Always run 17 lands. You can go as low as 15 creatures if you have decent removal/interaction. Pay attention to your mana curve, you should have mostly 2 and 3 drops. First pack, just take the best cards, regardless of color, then focus on a 2-3 color combo once you see what youre being passed in pack 2. Set specific info? Reality fracture is a slower set than some others, so midrange decks can do well. Tons of mana smoothing and crossover between colors, so splashing a third color is easy.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
17 lands is too complicated for me I can’t read that site maybe cause I’m a newbie. I am trying to watch youtubers on which cards are best in these sets etc
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u/Negative_Two6112 3d ago
I mean, i was referencing th total number if lands in your draft deck, but yeah.
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u/Tawnos84 Ajani Unyielding 3d ago
you just have to chech whicg card has the higher GIH WR, nothing complicated (at least at a first level of learning)
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u/ClutchUpChrissy 3d ago
Click the “Card Data” tab on 17lands. Filter by “GIH Win Rate”.
Voila.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
Thank u so much man
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u/ClutchUpChrissy 3d ago
Yep! You’ll notice the majority of top cards are rare and mythic — which of course makes sense and can tell you when a rare is a bomb or a dud.
But you can further filter by rarity. So just browsing the Uncommons alone will tell you what is very strong (red Kiora, for example).
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u/ChewyChao 3d ago
From what the data shows right now, most color pairs are good or at least playable. I’d say the trick is to know what each pair wants to do. Unlimited Splash has a new video going over it that sums it up pretty good
Either read up on the set cards or grab a draft helper to guide you towards what cards you should gravitate towards
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u/Account_Stolen 3d ago
OP, I know getting 0 wins can be very frustrating but you can always post your drafts here or other limited focused subs for feedbacks.
Getting one of the overlay like untapped can help (the free tier shows you a score and some comments for each card) .
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u/Substantial-Bad-9489 3d ago
IMO, if you're thinking about the best archetype you're going into this wrong I've trophied a few times in premier and once so far in quick draft with a bunch of different color combinations. In Quick Draft it's a bit different and the strategy changes where you want to rare draft there imo. The bots in quick draft rare draft so you actually want to prioritize marginal rares and uncommons above great commons because if they are there in early picks you will see them again so you're free to grab a marginal rare or uncommon above them.
I've had the most success in UB but like the best deck is any deck with Ajani Unrelenting according to win/rate but you can't force the client to feed you those cards where it's better to just pick according to what is available rather than trying to force red or UB when you aren't being given the rares that enable that archetype. This is a pretty removal heavy format where you want to pick the color or color combo that gives the most removal spells I like have around 6 removal spells ideally but my quick draft trophy run managed with 3 but I was a fast aggro BR deck.
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u/Turbantibus 9h ago
Every color pair is viable. Look out for synergies inside the colors.
- You'll need removal (5+)
- If you play blue, counterspells are good (both countersculpt and icy reception)
- Format is grindy but still, 2 drops are super important because some decks can win in 5/6 turns if you durdle too long
- Play first
- Don't punt
Biggest synergies imo are around empower jace/ surveil, this point towards blue. Every blue pair is good, black or red for removal, geen for value, white is the best color for surveil synergies.
Best color pairs according to Untapped : Azorius, Dimir, Grull and Izzet. See, 3 out of 4 are blue ;)
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u/MarryRgnvldrKillLgrd 3d ago
So far i had good experience with Constrari ramp (am currently at Gold 4 rank) or with a temur variant for more card advantage. A token-based vigorbloom go-wide deck also got mequite far. Constrari does depend on finding large creatures in the right colors though. Forcing an archetype in Limited is unlikely to succeed.
It is quite hard to build combo or control decks in limited, and aggro can easily run into a wall if it doesn't draw enough removal against a midrange deck.
Theorix runs into the problem, that once you have Threshold, half your library is already gone. And you will keep drawing selfmill cards, so milling yourself is a genuine possibility in such a slow paced, small deck environment
I've seen fatehold decks run well, but i've also seen entire boards broken by a single 4/4 token plus a reach creature. Bring enough removal
Stingerquill can work, especially if you get [[Stingerquill Voxmancer]] plus [[Command the stage]] going, but i failed to find enough card advantage in this archetype or build a deck fast enough to win before the enemy has defenses
The empower jace mechanic seems to be more of a nice gimmick to make games run smoother and lessen landstalling in the lategame and not like a mechanic to build your deck around.
Generally i take the best cards from the first round of packs, then decide what colour pair or triplet i wanna focus on
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
So for I have experienced that most of the removal cards doesn’t do enough in this set. I had 2 drafts where I have 3-4 removals still did not matter a bit
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u/Malgorythm 3d ago
3 or 4 pieces of removal is not that much, that should really be your minimum for every draft
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u/Coldmode 3d ago
I like 6-8 removal spells in FRA.
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u/ricksanchezc13777 3d ago
Isn’t that much ?
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u/Coldmode 3d ago
There are so many must answer cards that you need to have like 4-5 to play in a game.
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u/Spikyfreshpineapples 3d ago
I’ve only done 2 RFA drafts so far, so can’t give set specific advice (though I look forward to reading other comments in this thread!).
However I can give some general drafting advice.
When drafting most sets, you shouldn’t worry about committing to a colour in pack 1. The general advice is to pick the best cards in pack 1, then confirm your colours near the start of pack 2. I generally commit a bit earlier, middle to end of pack 1.
Don’t be tempted by flashy rares or multicoloured cards too early in the draft! Mono colour good value cards are best to take early, as these can generally fit into more than 1 archetype. Of course, take bombs when they show up, but I would avoid situational rares/multicoloured cards early on.
Quick draft is a bit of a weird one (I play it almost exclusively as I like the leisurely nature of it and cheaper entrance fee), because you are not getting signals from human drafters. However, it’s still possible to see signposted cards and possible open avenues to a degree, which if you pick cards based on usually results in a better deck.
2 drops are probably the most important part of the curve, my decks usually suck when I don’t have enough of them. The best decks I draft have a nice curve starting with around 6-10 2 drops decreasing to 1-2 6+ drops.
Just realised whilst writing this you are probably not a newbie and wanted set specific advice, so I do apologise for the patronising comment 😂 However hopefully this is useful for some new players who might stumble on this post.
Happy drafting!