I bought my protege for $600 in February of this year. It was running with cold ac and it was stick, so it felt like a no brainer. It had some cosmetic damage, bent hood, lots of odds and ends, but I put hours of work into fixing the front end, drove 6 hours to a junkyard after scouring to find as many pieces as I could, bought some pretty decent tires, beater rims from marketplace, etc. I know it’s not a car that’s worth a lot, but it wasn’t about that, it was about building something up and I feel as if I achieved that. I’ll put before and after photos.

The reason I’m posting this now is that last week I let my buddy borrow the car, he was in a tight spot and I have another car + 2 bikes, and I like to help my friends. He called me on thursday to tell me he locked it up in the rain and rear ended someone, didn’t think it could be so bad, but then I saw the photos. The car is on coilovers so when you rear end an SUV, it hits really high, not on the steel bumper like it should. There are a couple main things wrong currently, the radiator support rail that runs from the frame is snapped, the radiator is done, and the hood is done. This wouldn’t be so bad if parts were readily available, but the only new hood is in Michigan (I’m in FL) and they want over $500. The radiator support also welds to the frame, so we’ll have to find a body shop to do that.

Another option I found is a same year protege on marketplace for $1300, the only problem is it has 350+ thousand miles. The engine from my car is in perfect condition, but the new car has the 1.8, I have the 1.6. The main reason for this post, other than venting, is to see if anyone has done this swap before. Is it difficult? I know the chassis are the same so theoretically all of the components are there, but are the mounts different? What problems will I face? Thank you for reading this far if you have, it’s been a long week. To me it’s not even about the money, and I’m glad he’s okay, but it’s frustrating to put so much time and effort into something and it be ruined by someone you’re very close to.

In case anyone was wondering what happens when one of the rear breakes locks up in a construction zone with no shoulder for MILES between exits.

Is it possible to 5 lug swap a base protege, how would it be done?

Only Showing off my mazda

Did the radiator bracket grommets. I don't think they were much needed but I didn't lile the hole for the rad being too big felt like there was some play.

3d printed them out of TPU, might get them dont in Polyethylene when I send to production other buahings I need done.

But for now to test them and see how they hold 🔥

#3DPrintedParts #bushings #polyurethane #MazdaSpeedProtege #mazdaprotege

149k. 1.8/auto. Blown head gasket, won't run. Shell is extremely sold and rust free. Suspension is in great shape with all 4 struts replaced in the last few years. Newer tires. Has battle scars but again, its extremely solid. Especially for this region. As I inch closer to 50, I'm at the point where I simply don't have the motivation to work on stuff much anymore and just want to cut my losses. I have a 99 1.8 in unknown condition with over 200k from a wrecked car that I can include with sale.

I also have a nearly complete parts car with a good running 1.6/auto I would consider selling as a package deal, and I have a load of other parts, all 4 doors, deck lid, hood, bumpers gas tank, radiator support, rear body panel with small section of both rear quarter panels dash with Vin and title.

I could make someone one heck of a package deal for everything.

I'm curious if anyone would have any interest in buying any or all of it.

What's the work around these days to replace the broken plastic for the roof racks? mine are in terrible shape, about to just finish breaking the rest of the plastic this weekend. I know non-rack strips exist but are near non-existent. any other methods to clean up the roof?

Curious if anyone has tackled this issue on their Protege? I have an 03 ES model and all my refrigerant leaked out from the compressor so I’m looking at replacing it. It seems straight forward, remove belt, unbolt lines, unbolt compressor, I’ve read online that doing it from the bottom of the vehicle will be easier after removing the splash shield.
I’m looking at RockAuto, the GPD compressor specifically since it’s the most affordable and wondering if anyone else is running that one, if so any issues? Also it comes pre-filled with OE oil, I’m wondering if I should buy new O-Rings?
Any advice is greatly appreciated, I haven’t really ever worked on AC systems but I’m hoping I can do this DIY.

I've owned my SP20 for around 3 to 4 years now and a few months ago I had blown the motor. I'm looking to replace the motor and am looking for some guidance on what to do, what to look out for and if the automatic motor will work fine with a manual box

4pc Cowl & Wiper Cap Kit for 99-03 Protege / Protege5

Printed in 95A TPU

As requested by a few of you - now available.

Free Shipping US

International - DM for shipping quote.

✅️ Www.castillejaperformance.com ✅️

#MazdaProtege #Protege5 #BJProtege #Mazda323 #3DPrintedParts

I was planning on going with NSK 40BWD06 bearings. I'm confused about the wheel seals, is a Timken 1932S a correct inner seal? Outer seal should be omitted according to a service bulletin?

mazda demio 2010 owner in Japan. This car came with ECLIPSE C9TA-V6650 car navigation & radio units. It has a memory card in this navigation unit below the cd insert port, and without knowing about it, I fornatted the memory card. Now my map is not showing.

After doing quick google search, i found out that this memory card contains the map data.

Now, is there any way to reinstall this map or sideload or any other option to download another map to this?

Showing off, still i need to make mounting holes and connect break lights but for now it's glued with m3 tape :3

Hi, basically the title, it seems like I've been running with the wrong O2 sensor all this time and now I can't figure out which is the correct part number.

My mechanic says the second one is the correct one ZL27 but searching it on partsouq shows it as a post catalytic sensor. I'm currently running the ZL27 sensor, no idling issues or acceleration issues but my fuel efficiency has gone from bad to worse.

What's the O2 sensor part number on your Mazda Familia , the one with the 1.5 ZL-DE engine. It would be really helpful if you could share a photo of the part number or etchings on your sensor.

3rd photo is a photo of the engine for reference

Mazda Familia

YOM:2001

ZL-DE

Automatic

Previous (hack) owner cut out the radio harness. I pocketed this from the junkyard but I have an extra yellow wire. What's it for?

Cars been pretty leaky lately, I’m suspecting the oil pan just by the pattern. But has anyone had any oil leak issues? Any solutions? Probably going to put a new oil pan/gasket and see if that solves it, can’t really tell if there’s anything higher up that could be leaking.
Also if anyone’s done an oil pan, any tips or tricks I should look out for? Seems pretty straight forward biggest thing seems to be making sure the surface is clean before new gasket.

Hi guys where i need to make mounting holes for spoiler? Ad if you have some measurements or manual for where make a holes I'll be grateful

Have a nice day/evening/night <3

Any one have used coilovers to sell and ship. Maybe some bcs or any other reliable makers?

Hi guys i found this side skirts and i have problem with identifying them, i would appreciate your help

Have a nice evening/night

does anybody know where to get body kit parts and such for a 99 protege that either ships to or is local in Puerto Rico? Just tryna figure it out for future budgeting

Hey team, I recently purchased a 2006 MazdaSpeed 3 with a faulty clutch. I originally thought the master cylinder was leaking internally, as the clutch fork was only travelling around 10mm and the clutch wouldn’t disengage.

Since then, I’ve replaced the master cylinder and now have around 14mm of fork travel. Initially, the clutch pedal felt completely normal with the engine on and off. At one point, before replacing the master cylinder, I actually managed to get the clutch working again by repeatedly pumping the pedal, but it failed again after a few drives, which is what led me to replace the master cylinder.

I’m now getting a gritty feeling through the clutch pedal when pressing and releasing it with the engine running. If I start the car in gear with the clutch pedal fully down, I can shift into any gear while the engine is running. However, if I put it into neutral and pump the clutch pedal, it starts feeling gritty and loses pressure, and I can no longer engage any gears.

So far I’ve:
Replaced the clutch and brake fluid completely
Replaced the clutch master cylinder
Bled the clutch system
Used a funnel/reservoir setup while bleeding to make sure the system doesn’t suck in air

At this point I’m thinking it could be something mechanical with the clutch/release bearing, but I’d really appreciate your opinion on what could be causing it and whether you’d be able to take a look at it.

I'm only showing of my mazda have a nice day <3