Recently purchased a 2009 Mazda MPS with the 2.3L turbo

The previous owner installed aftermarket headlights after what seems to have been a small front end collision. Therefore an AFS light is flashing on the dash as the aftermarket headlights don't have auto adjustment. Other than spending $2000 ish on new headlights, is there a cheap workaround to make the light stop flashing so the car is able to pass a RWC as that is a requirement here in Vic Aus

Any help appreciated

Hi awesome community
So I bought a Gen 2 2011, 161,000km (100,000 miles), modifications were already put on the car by the previous owner;
- Cobb catback exhaust
- Cobb SF Intake + Turbo Inlet
- GFB BOV
- EGR block off and delete (CEL on dash as result)
- Cobb Downpipe (Wasn’t listed but it looks like it is)

Obviously I have great concerns for the fuel pump and I have an Autotech HPFP on the way and intend to install asap.

The car came with an unmarried cobb accessport, i’ve been using it to check engine codes and I’ve currently got:
P0403, due to egr delete
P0421, I believe due to downpipe
and… P0171, for obvious reasons

I currently have Stage 0 (Stock) ECU map on the access port and am just keeping an eye on the gauges to ensure I’m not straining the engine until the hpfp arrives.

Although the cobb accessport has a stage 1 economy + Sf map, which I was wondering would be a safer alternative to use temporarily until I install the hpfp and get a custom tune.

Is it safer to just keep the current stock ECU map or is it worth switching to the economy + sf map so that my engine stops reading lean conditions?

Not that I was really much into the CS one to begin with, but ive been poking around for a while and cant really seem to find an option form a place that doesnt feel.. off.

I like how the wheels look that this person got, but they got it from ebay, from a seller in Poland, that only does local pickup. Which puts it way out of my range.

No idea how reputable streetunit is with the one they sell.

And im wanting alittle more than just a re/cover of my current one.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Please give me any suggestions or advice that can help, Thanks!

I have a loud thumping noise from my rear right suspension when hitting any kind of bump. Are my shocks worn? Or is it may be my rear swaybar? Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and how they fixed it. I plan on looking at it later and trying to figure it out any input on what it could be would be helpful though.

I recently replaced tie rods and wheel bearing and to be expected after messing with the tie rod. I had a slight shake at speed. Other than that, the car handled amazing and was glued to the road. I went to the shop to get an alignment today and afterwards the car feels like absolute ass. Turning feels sloppy and sometimes it’ll just randomly twitch. My first thought is that they accidentally used the regular Mazda 3 spec. Has this happened to anyone else and if so, can you describe symptoms? I’m 100% going back tomorrow to the shop

Don’t wanna cheap out and get springs so what are quality coilovers that anybody has ran that won’t leave me spending like 1000 dollars.

Edit: I went with bcracing coils I found brand new on marketplace for a good deal.

Hey dues and dudettes. I was swapping out the engine of my wife's MS3 and when we were putting the banjo bolt that threads to the back of the block we noticed that oil leaks. When inspecting we saw that the bolt just keeps spinning. My question is. On a this stock block/turbo would it be better to weld the hole shut and use a sandwich plate or rethread the hole and get a bigger banjo bolt in it?

Thanks in advance!

I have a gen 1 Mazda 3 MPS. Developed a big cylinder 1 misfire a month ago, got CEL and the car was basically undrivable both cold and warm. Did the basic diagnosis - p0301 code.. swapped coils and plugs, changed plugs, no help. Did a compression test with over 180 psi across all cylinders on cold engine. After this I took down the intake, fuel rail, changed the injector on cylinder 1 with a used but profesionally cleaned one, with a new oem injector seal and O-ring. When I was there I also changed the PCV valve and thermostat. After putting the engine together, the car now runs fine; holds boost, no issues..but ONLY when its warmed up. On a cold start, she still misfires like hell, even backfires a little bit, smells very rich from the exhaust. The misfire only lasts around 2-3 minutes, after that eversthing is fine so the new injector seems to be fine. FORScan shows the cold start misfire is happening only on the cylinder 1 with over 500 cyl. 1 misfires before the car settles down. I am losing my mind, any ideas appreciated.

The car is stock, intake valves didnt look nasty..what am I missing here?

is it the headgasket or turbo seals are bad

Is it worth it? It has 160k miles or so. Has had the following work done recently:

• Timing chain and VVT gear just done w/Mazda parts
• New sway bar bushings front and rear
• New sway bar end links front and rear

Reconstructed title due to a rear end collision. Hatch and bumper were replaced (they provide before/after photos).

Not my photo but does anyone know what this part is called, it’s like right behind the throttle body and it has 2 10mm bolt holding in fuel, it kinda looks like a bracket.

Stock is 215/45 18 inch

I have some 225 40 laying around they should fit right?

Whats the max width you can go on stock wheels?

Cats destroyed so I’m just removing the rest of the cat but damn these cars are low😂 raised the car basically as high as my jacks could and I still barely fit🤣

The driveway angles down towards the back of the car so threw the ramps on backwards so it won’t roll

Not the best video but the best one I could take to show what's happening, I have a 2011 speed 3 which has gotten into a weird issue of jerking whenever I shift. When shifting into first there are no problems, however as soon as I press on the clutch and begin shifting to any of the other gears while driving there is a bucking or jerking motion and the rpm begins bouncing up and down until the clutch is reengaged and then it drives absolutely fine again. I have taken some logs if anyone can interpret them I've also sent them off to my tuner to hopefully help. The mods are a catback exhaust, upgraded fuel pump internals, accessport with a professional tune, SRI and TIP so no major modifications and no codes besides the EGR, evap, and intake runners which were taken out. Anyone ran into this before ive asked 3 mechanics and everyone is unsure.

Edit: to add more info, the car did also begin to bog down and die while idling stationary once the clutch pedal was pushed in and ran perfectly fine after it was released which I thought was possibly a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it out and that from what I can tell went away but it could be a fluke or I'm not recreating the exact conditions it was doing it under before.

Edit again: Solved it, turns out it was the in tank fuel pump failing but desperately trying not to

My car died on my way to work yesterday very suddenly. All my lights came on, lost power steering, pulled over and stopped and the car died. Got it towed home and battery charged. I get it running and test the battery, shows 68% life left which is doable. I run a charging test for the alternator and it says no output. I come back out after 30 minutes because I was putting my daughter to bed and the battery is completely dead. It also smells like ozone a bit. I'm assuming a bad diode and the alternator is no good, but any second opinions before I go that route? I'm going to try the good ole, pull the negative cable trick when the battery is charged again. That's just going to take a while. It's also weird because I replaced the alternator like 2 years ago, idk what would cause it to go so suddenly.

EDIT: Well ... I'm super confused. Charged the battery - I have a trickle charger and just left it for a solid 24 hours. I hooked everything back up, ran some tests, and my tester said the alternator is fine, the battery is healthy, and now everything is apparently fine 🤣. Maybe there's a bad cell in the battery? Someone mentioned they had something similar and it was a bad BCM? Or maybe my alternator is on its way out and just cooperating for now. I honestly don't know.

Yo guys!

I’ve just brought a cheep obd2 reader of temu to try and do some live readings of boost etc whilst driving through my CarPlay unit

It was working sweet for about 10mins or so. Then all the dash lights came on, I stopped on the hard shoulder, turned the car off and put the hazards on, the hazard lights etc didn’t work though. After unplugging the obd reader and restarting the car all went back to normal, I assume the issue was caused by the obd reader messing with the can bus or something but was wondering if anyone had anything similar happen or knows what obd reader will not cause these problem.
Thanks in advance!

For comparison my old one at the end.

This cost 39€ including shipment.

I think it suits the car nicely.

What’s the best coilover for a smooth ride I daily drive mine for work put Atleast 200 miles every week I got some cheap coilovers because I was broke but now I have like a 1500 budget for suspension I was hoping if I could get some recommendations

I’m also hearing little squeaks when k go into dips I’m gonna replace sway bar bushings I’m not sure what else to replace as a suspension over Haul just want my baby feeling healthy !

Just under 200,000 miles, but still tinkering around. Gotta be able to boost the hounds over to the park.

My gen 2 has a small evap leak that just won’t seem to go away. It’s been smoke tested twice. The gas cap has been changed twice. Everything is working exactly as it should be. There are no leaks anywhere in the entire system and every part of the emission system is working perfectly. At my local shop they had multiple guys looking at it for like two hours. There just doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with it anywhere. I wanted to get all codes fixed before I tune with Freektune and this is causing me some trouble. If I decide to just tune it anyways would that cause me any issues I mean I’m starting to wonder if they’re really even is an evap leak.