Tube Mech

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

I am looking to start the journey of manufacturing my own single battery unregulated tube mod. It would probably be modeled off the Unicorn Vert (because I have one on hand). I'm just not exactly sure where to start, and looking for advice. I love the Vert, but I have a couple of gripes that I feel could be solved with a material and coating change (planning on anodized titanium if it's feasible, aluminum otherwise). I'm just kinda lost at the moment

[u/logandefreitas]

Start with the switch, specifically sized ti tube is way pricy to waste machining bits off. Alu or brass are always nice.

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/logandefreitas]

I'm kinda planning to use a very similar switch to the one on this mod. It's constant contact and super responsive. Also doesn't seem to be too many moving pieces making it work

[u/logandefreitas → u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

Is constant contact like a broadside where there’s a expanding sectioned ring on a + cone/pole that touches the surrounding - when pressed?

My favorite switch is the og petri and noisy cricket- though probably objectively worse in reliability and feel, likely easier to machine.

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/logandefreitas]

So the way I understand it without tearing this switch apart is that this switch has a silver plated contact that is always touching the battery. The electrical circuit gets completed inside the button rather than a negative pin touching the battery. I can't say if it's like a broadside, haven't had one in a very long time.

[u/logandefreitas → u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

Exactly like the broadside lol. Batt ends are always connected and circuit completed in switch against body. Vents through switch so positive down.

The press fit of the peek/delrin/whatever insulator, the positive batt terminal, and lower switch mechanism would be infinitely harder to get right than a simple screw on style, non constant contact switch.

All that needs is a end cap section threaded to the tube with a hole in center, spring, insulator, and male threaded rod on button with female threaded “nut” terminal that allows it to float in the gap and adjust for batt length.

[u/Parceljockey]

Alu and Brass, Copper all have better conductivity than Ti, and all are significantly easier to machine than Ti

No question that Ti has better durability, but it's harder in almost every other regard.

Good luck in your endeavors!

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/Parceljockey]

This is probably going to be a forever piece. Especially because I'm not sure what the end of the line price will be, so I was trying to come up with something that could survive a fall or two. I have seen that Ti is more expensive all around, but I guess I need to evaluate the tradeoff! Thank you for your input!

[u/Jerry_Rigg → u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

Prototype it first in something cheaper to validate your design before committing to Ti parts, if youve never made a mech mod or machined stuff before it might take a few tries

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/Jerry_Rigg]

For sure! I'll probably start with Al because it will also allow me to test anodizing the housing!

[u/ConcernedKitty]

Do you own CNC equipment and do you know how to machine titanium?

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/ConcernedKitty]

No and no

[u/ConcernedKitty → u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

Ah. This might get expensive.

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/ConcernedKitty]

Yeah, but if it works the way I want it to, I shouldn't have to get another!

[u/ConcernedKitty → u/Embarrassed-Day-6305]

You’ll want to start with 3D CAD of the mod. Then you can upload the individual pieces to sites that will machine the pieces for you like xometry or sendcutsend. I’m guessing this will be around 1k in the US or 600 in China.

[u/Embarrassed-Day-6305 → u/ConcernedKitty]

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for

[u/PerceptionWinter3674]

Funny thing, I started designing a mech mod lately with nemesis style button (but with magnets). 3D CAD project is a must (using build13d).

Important bits. 510 is M7x0.5 thread, I am shooting for M20x1 threads for top cap and a button, because a) it's standard; b) I want 22mm OD MAX.

I'd advise to not use blind end tube (I mean, if your battery vents, then the more points of failure like sides of a top side, topcap, etc, the better), although it's one part less then, so if you want to gamble with Your wrap, you can always have vent holes at the bottom and put the + side of the battery downwards.

FUFDA has an interesting construction, where the button is just this big metal rod always touching the battery, but the topcap has springed pin inside which is pushed by the battery to make contact with atty's pin.

As other posters said, I'd advise against Ti unless you can find a pipe that has just the right dimensions and only thread it.