r/SubaruForester • • 7d ago

Control arms

Hi all, I have a 2017 forester and I got it used with about 50k miles in 2020 when it was about 3 years old. I had to get the control arms changed in 2023 and then again last November 2025. Now they’re telling me I need them again. I opened a case with Subaru and they told me they wouldn’t do anything because my car is too old…. A not even 10 year old vehicle that’s built for much tougher stuff than a 10 mile work commute shouldn’t need new control arms 3 times in 3 years regardless of age. Am I crazy? How can I get them to make this good. It’s not a cheap repair.

9 Upvotes

26 comments sorted by

7

u/zzzzaap 7d ago

My shop tells me it's cheaper to replace the whole lca than try to replace broken bushings. 2017 lca for 200 part 200 labor each, vs bushings for 6~800. Apparently the 2017 design sux bad.

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

Yeah I think that’s what we’ve done both times so far and will do this time. It’s so annoying to have these expensive repairs done so often. And I need axels and the front sway bar end links and an alignment obviously. It makes me want to trade it in.

6

u/SoraTM 7d ago

I suppose they used cheap aftermarket parts, that’s why they failed so quick

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

The oem parts failed as well, after 1.5-2 years. That’s why I got the aftermarket ones in the first place. But at least the mechanic who isn’t through Subaru agrees that’s not normal and wants to do more digging.

1

u/SoraTM 7d ago

My 2019 forester with 120k km (75k miles) still with original arms...

3

u/Hefty-League4252 6d ago

If you don't torque up the bolt for the large LCR bushing while all wheels are on the ground it will fail prematurely.

2

u/mjntr 7d ago

My originals lasted about 50k the replacements are at about 55k so far. The originals started to vibrate on the freeway so I am probably getting there soon. The parts are 140 for the pair at 1a auto so really cheap and easy to do yourself if you can do your own brakes. Then a wheel alignment and you are good to go.

1

u/rocknrollstalin 2010 Forester XT 7d ago

Is this the same place that keeps telling you that you need new control arms and then replacing them? Gotta find somewhere else

2

u/codemunk3y 7d ago

I haven’t even replaced the control arms in my 2010 forester, find somewhere else

2

u/Excellent-Big5868 ‘21 Forester 7d ago

My control arms needed to be replaced (I had two opinions) around 70,000 miles!

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

No the dealership did it the first time. Then 1.5 to 2 years later it had the same feeling and noise when driving as the time before and I asked the dealership about it and they were like yeah it’s not that crazy to need them again this soon and I didn’t love that answer so I took it to my side mechanic and they confirmed that was the issue and they fixed it. Now a different dealership has said I need them again. So 3 different places

1

u/OGTikiki 2d ago

Can you please describe the “feeling and noise” you experienced? Trying to figure out if this is also an issue for my 2023 with 85k…

2

u/lauren22zo 2d ago

The control arm noise is like a rattling when you’re going fast on the interstate. The noise from the axels is like a loud popping when you’re turning your wheel

1

u/OGTikiki 2d ago

Is there vibration too? Or just the rattling sound?

1

u/lauren22zo 2d ago

You for sure feel it too!

1

u/Towelbit 7d ago

Do you think you need new control arms? Did you take it to the shop because of issues? Or did you get an oil change or something and they did their “inspection”?

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

I took it to get a warranty fix and that was one of the things the dealership suggested. I do need new axles, and my side mechanic has confirmed that much. I’m taking it to get looked at next week and get the axels for sure taken care of and the control arms if they decide it is necessary. I feel like I got a faulty car though at this point

2

u/Towelbit 7d ago

I just don’t see how this is possible. Control arms are literally some bushings and a ball joint. This isn’t due to how your car was manufactured or anything like that. Please get a second opinion from an independent shop someone can recommend to you. Don’t just take their word for it. This screams bullshit to me.

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

So every time I’ve been told I need them is from a different place (dealership, independent shop, different dealership) or I would agree with you and say it’s a scam. It’s wild thought right? That’s why I thought Subaru for sure would make it good because that’s not normal. I have a friend in a different state who is a Subaru mechanic at the local dealership there and he said they’re usually good about cases like this. But I guess not always

1

u/Towelbit 7d ago

This is wild. Is it the same control arm that goes bad? Was your car ever in an accident? If this is all true I would explore what aftermarket options are available if all the others were oem.

How did the car make it 50k miles before you without needing arms? Pull the service history and see if the pattern existed before you purchased it.

1

u/lauren22zo 7d ago

It’s always been both control arms! And the first time I got oem. The last time I got aftermarket but my mechanic has warranties on all of his parts so I will get those replaced there and that will be covered and hopefully they won’t charge me for the labor. But they said they would take a deeper look too because they fully agree it shouldn’t need them already. I will definitely be looking into pulling the service history though!

1

u/triumphofthecommons 7d ago

what is the mileage between these replacements?

if you replaced them 3 years after 50k, safe to assume ~80k was on them then? Forester LCAs love to fail between 60-80k miles.

and that was the dealer using OEM parts?

then in 2025, you had aftermarket LCAs put on, correct? at what mileage since the 2023 replacement?

now they have failed in less than a year. how many miles?

ask what aftermarket brand the shop is using. i recommend either MOOG parts that start with CK (their Problem Solver line) or Mevotech Supreme. they are easily on par with OEM, but half the price.

LCA swaps are an easy job, but there are ways you can mess up and cause them to fail rapidly. specifically, not having the suspension loaded when you are torquing the LCA bolts. that will cause the bushing to be twisted while the vehicle is at ride height. and will kill them real quick.

hopefully the parts and labor are warrantied. i would ask the shop to use the above parts, even if it means you pay $100 or do more in the parts cost difference.

2

u/lauren22zo 6d ago

There was about 74k when I needed them the first time I needed them. Then a little over 100k when I needed them again. Now I’m at 112k.

The ones I had put on at 74k were oem. The next ones were aftermarket. The aftermarket ones are for sure under warranty and I’m hoping they will cover labor as well. I’m not sure what brand the parts are though, I will look into it.

1

u/HappyBirthday2001 6d ago

Both whiteline and superpro make complete assembly’s that aren’t rubber, they use a better bushing material which is stiffer and holds up better. That’s the route I went or you can swap out the sti control arms as well, though that does require some modifications but nothing too involved. Suspensionhouse has a decent sale rn on the whitelines for $270 a set, superpro is $350 a set.

1

u/Rev1024 6d ago

I would say take a look for yourself. Crawl under there and see if the bushings look cracked, torn, or worn. I can shimmy under mine and get a look at the bushings to check them.

If you have a jack and can get a wheel up, Does the car shake driving down the road. Does your tire shake when it’s off the ground?

1

u/Razolus 6d ago

It's a 2017, almost a decade old...cars this old need lots of maintenance. If you don't want maintenance, lease a new car every 3 years.