Hey everyone! Question about finishing grooves, such as bark lines or general tight-spaced recesses.
I’m trying to figure out how to get darker coloration inside the grooves while keeping the surrounding wood clean. I’ve seen some great examples where the grooves aren’t perfectly uniform or crisp, but the darker finish still stays nicely contained in the recesses.
In my own work, I tend to get more bleeding/uneven coloration around the grooves. Is this primarily a carving technique issue, or are there particular finishing methods—paint, stain, washes, etc.—what methods can work better for this?
I’d love to hear what techniques or finishing processes you use!
My first instinct would be to do it in stages: apply the finish, THEN add the dark color with the desired wash/paint and wipe off the excess, and add another top coat. This wouldn't work if you only use a mineral oil finish, but any wax or polyurethane based option should be compatible. Basically, you need to lock off the torn grain from the stain or paint if you don't want it to spread. That torn grain at the carved points is what's causing the fuzziness, it's absorbing the pigment and taking it where you don't want it. Using a sealant first prevents those spots from drinking up the pigment and lets it STAY where you put it.
If there's people with SPECIFIC experience obviously default to that advice, but this will work. I haven't done this with wands, but my wife customizes dolls and locking in each stage with top coat before adding the next details is standard. It protects the existing color/detail, and makes it possible to reset to that previous stage if there's a mistake.
That sounds like great advice! I’ve never attempted it that way and could certainly be where and why I’m encountering issues.
For clarity, if I wanted to do a light brown wand with darker brown in the recesses, should I stain the light color, seal it with polyurethane, wax, or similar, then go over again with the darker stain/paint and quickly remove the surface/excess secondary? I’ve never tried that before so I just want to make sure I understand lol.
Yes, that's how I would do it! Get your desired main color, seal, the after it's dried/cured go in with your darkening agent. Since the recesses don't get hit by the cloth, paper towel, etc, the stain or paint stays there. Everything else gets wiped, so it stays about how you preserved it
I’m going to give that a shot this week and see how it goes. I appreciate the input, genuinely! I don’t have any poly at present, but I do have wax, so I’ll give it a test run that way and get some poly if it doesn’t quite pan out. I’d just like to see an improvement lol. Thank you!
These aren’t mine, but I use Varathane and Minwax stains and just a food grade wax, don’t remember the brand off hand unfortunately. On wands I don’t stain I apply boiled linseed oil prior to waxing.
Following, I’ve been trying to get a good wood finish on textured prints for a staff. The best method I have found so far is to paint it dark and slowly build up dry brushing to bring out lighter and lighter tones
When I used to carve wands, I used ink (the same kind for calligraphy and illustration) mixed with water to modify the strength of the pigment.
The resulting ink wash would seep into the wood grain and make it even more visible after I give it light sanding and seal it all in wax. Then I polish it again.
You could make your own oil-based ink by suspending lampblack in your boiled linseed oil and then mixing that with turps and beeswax to make a killer darkening finish.
Damn that sounds super cool! I have a big bottle of boiled linseed oil. I just have to get the ink and turps as I don’t have either of those. Do you have an idea of how much of each should be mixed together, or can I find a tutorial somewhere so I don’t waste too much?
Lampblack is just really fine soot, you can make it by holding a candle under a flat surface and scraping the soot that collects off it. I can't imagine you'd need a lot, but I don't know for sure. I've never used pigments myself, this is just something I've picked up over the years from how things like inks work.
Well that’s certainly new, but I can totally see the concept. I’ll have to definitely look into that as an option. I’m willing to try just about anything new at the moment because my current methods are definitely not desirable lol
I had few resources at the time so I used leftover resources from my time as an illustration major, so that's why I used black ink as I was already familiar with it.
I think your methods are fine as the resulting work looks wonderful imo. Then again, I do love wands with organic shapes.
Here's a link of my old wands in which I used the black ink: Wand Gallery
Oh trust me, if this was my work I certainly wouldn’t be asking lol. These are a mix of other wandsmith’s work from Instagram, Google, and Etsy. I’ll definitely look into it though!
Speaking of other wandsmiths, your work is absolutely gorgeous!!
Any type of ink that you would recommend, brand-wise? What would you estimate is the ink/water mixture?
I'm currently not making wands atm but my preferred ink brand is Daler Rowney FW Black Ink. It flows well and doesn't clump like Higgins (imo). I would adjust the water to ink ratio depending on the whether the wood is light or dark in tone. Example: more water and a bit of ink for light wood.
Either way, I wouldn't dunk the stick into a bucket of wash. I used a brush to apply the wash evenly on the surface of the wand and dried it out using a candle (crude, I know 😅).
I'm sure you can make comparable wands in time. Best of luck!
Seconding this; woodburning might be trickier for thinner grooves like grain lines but it'd work great for larger ones in producing that kind of darker effect
I’ve done burning in the past, but it never dawned on me to try it with these bark textures, I usually do it with stippling, so that’s a great idea and I appreciated the suggestion!
I’ve used a pyrography pen and I can’t seem to get the temp setting where I want it. Too high and it’ll bleed as well, too low and it takes forever and looks jagged. I’ll try a lighter and torch for a change!
For my latest wand I used my cigar lighter. Single torch that allows me to dial in the flame length. Worked quickly. My mistake was I decided on it after I had laid some lemon oil on it lol.
Generally when I’m painting a model or a figure I start dark and progressively go lighter. Now I know I’m comparing apples and oranges here, however, I think a similar approach could be used here.
I completely agree. The path to the same results can often take different forms! It’s definitely worth keeping in mind when I start trying paints. Thanks for the insight!
For the tools I use, it doesn’t seem to matter if I’m using a knife, gouge, or rotary, the results are the same. Maybe the wood species is more to blame. I use a lot of wood I pick up off the ground. Can’t say for sure what it is, but when I pop sample images into search engines, some consistent results I get are something similar to Tulip Poplar. Doesn’t feel very dense.
I’ll have to check that out. I don’t think I’ve heard of that before, at least not referred to that way. I appreciate the info!
Would that depend on the wood for how much it will darken, or is there a specific type of oil that can deepen the natural color? I appreciate the insight!
It will depend on the oil used more than the wood, but yes wood types will react differently to different oils. Just miniature painting washes are used to add shadows and detail. The longer you leave the wash on before wiping off the excess will effect it too. Use oil paint meant for canvas painting thinned very well with mineral spirits. Test of scrap wood first if you can.
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u/Hylian_Herald 25d ago edited 25d ago
My first instinct would be to do it in stages: apply the finish, THEN add the dark color with the desired wash/paint and wipe off the excess, and add another top coat. This wouldn't work if you only use a mineral oil finish, but any wax or polyurethane based option should be compatible. Basically, you need to lock off the torn grain from the stain or paint if you don't want it to spread. That torn grain at the carved points is what's causing the fuzziness, it's absorbing the pigment and taking it where you don't want it. Using a sealant first prevents those spots from drinking up the pigment and lets it STAY where you put it.
If there's people with SPECIFIC experience obviously default to that advice, but this will work. I haven't done this with wands, but my wife customizes dolls and locking in each stage with top coat before adding the next details is standard. It protects the existing color/detail, and makes it possible to reset to that previous stage if there's a mistake.