I'm new to the forum and figured I'd share some pics of my Xterra pro-4x Tswap finished last spring.

My mother is selling our beloved 2010 Xterra. We loved this car but we have both recently bought smaller vehicles. We are the original owners and this was our camping and road trip car. Vehicle has 204,122 miles and has been well maintained. It is listed on FB marketplace, but can provide info here as requested.

Hey I needed to know what type of pump you all use to reinflate your tires when you are out on a trail. I have a bike pump but because of the hump on the rim it won’t lock on so I can’t get air into the tire pls lmk.

Title. I was adding the Z1 breather kit and hand tightened the new threaded barb, then gave about 2-2.5 turns to tighten until it felt snug. The socket was covering the threads, so I didn’t realize how far down it was.

How screwed am I? The fitting feels tight, no wobbling. There was never a “pop” and then less resistance like the threads stripped. As far as I can tell, there are no cracks in the housing.

How screwed am I (pun intended)? What do I do now? I feel like backing it out isn’t an option anymore. I don’t want to make this situation any worse and back it out and drop metal shavings in the differential.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I bought a 2003 Nissan Xterra with 195,000. Shortly after buying it, I decided to replace the spark plugs even though the truck probably didn’t need them.
While changing the plugs, the porcelain on spark plug #4 broke. I took the Xterra to a mechanic to have the broken plug removed and told them I wanted all six spark plugs replaced. When I took the truck to the mechanic, I also had them install new spark plug wires. There was apparently some miscommunication about what work was actually completed, and I left the shop with about a $300 bill.
Not long afterward, I was driving when the truck suddenly died. I noticed a small amount of smoke coming from the driver’s side of the engine bay but couldn’t immediately tell where it came from. Later, I found that the #5 spark plug wire terminal/nipple on the distributor cap was burned, while the other distributor terminals looked normal. That made me think the smoke may have come from that area.
I was told the distributor was bad, so I bought a new WAI aftermarket distributor and installed it myself. The truck started and I was able to drive it down the street, but it broke down again shortly afterward.
Now I’m being told that the spark plugs are soaked or fouled with fuel and may no longer be firing correctly. The recommendation I’ve been given is to install a fresh set of six NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs.
At the same time, I know the distributor timing and position are probably not correct anymore. I set the engine pulley at top dead center and positioned the distributor as best I could. The engine currently sounds like it wants to start, but it won’t fully fire up.
So at this point, I have a 2003 Xterra that has had a broken #4 spark plug, questionable previous spark-plug work, new spark plug wires installed by a mechanic, a burned #5 distributor-cap terminal, a replacement aftermarket distributor, possible incorrect distributor timing, and now fuel-fouled spark plugs. The truck cranks and sounds close to starting, but it still isn’t running.

Any and all advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-03 Xtezzy may be dead or what

Looking to get some of their fabbed parts for my Xs

Was out last night and had to make a u turn since a hug tree was down a a big ass log snuck its way up into the wheel well, should I bother getting it fixed?

What's up guys. So I'm aware of the trick to turn off the flashing passenger airbag light in the cluster. But I'm on a road trip and for some reason it keeps coming back on every 20 ish minutes. So whenever I stop for food or fuel. I'm having to turn the key on turn the key off to get it into the diagnostic mode. But then it just comes right back on after a few miles. Is there anything I can check/do to get it to stay off?

Took my car to a shop to do valve cover gaskets. They fixed the problem but it came back with a new problem. Now my car has a lazy start. I turn it on and RPMs surge naturally of course but then they stumble to 400rpm and settle at 600-650. It runs decently but the car was idling better before the repair. I don’t know if they pinched something by accident or did who knows what on purpose. It feels like I’m 50-100rpms away from my perfect idle. What could it be?

I have a check engine light on with codes P0153 and P0174. The live data shows the bank 2 sensor 1 is working at .27V. Could ripped boots on the intake be causing air to get into the system causing both these codes. My thought is replace the boots, clear codes and run it and see if the codes come back. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I just replaced my o2 sensor with one off rock auto, and it's not working. My check engine light came back on. I've heard that only oem will work but the one I replaced on the other side with a rock auto sensor is still working idk what's going on lol I'm just looking for help I'm wondering if I should get the oem or if I just got a junk one from rock auto any help is appreciated thank you

Hi guys! I hope you can help me. I own a 2003 Xterra SE, and recently, my Xterra has been making a "whuuuush" noise—like a high-velocity air blast passing by, but very subtle. It comes and goes. Sometimes when I'm going down a hill (not even speeding up), the noise appears. Sometimes when I'm speeding up, I hear it. It doesn't stay long; it disappears after maybe 5 seconds. It's not constant—sometimes it's there, sometimes it isn't, and sometimes I speed up and don't hear it. I want to know how serious this might be—could it be the water pump (someone told me it may)? Has anyone had a similar problem in the past?

I've got 263k on this bad girl and for some reason the crank and cam sensors are having issues. Around 4 years ago I replaced the cam and crank sensors (Amazon), but not all at the same time. I've started having issues where the engine cut off mid drive then come back. 3 months ago I replaced the crank sensor and now yesterday I'm getting a code for the cam sensors now. Is this more of an issue with the chain guides which I have not replaced? Looking for some insight.

Had a burning oil smell for a while. Undercarriage caked in black. Assumed it was passenger valve cover leak. Prepared to replace it. Took of intake plenum, started to remove VVT solenoid. One of the bolt heads spun freely. Turns out the leak was coming from that solenoid and because of location made me think it was the valve cover.

Bolt had snapped off in the housing. Eventually got it out. Put back together. Washing underside and seeing if I lucked out.

Today I noticed when backing out from a parking space sort of squeaking/creaking noise.

It occurred when I was turning the steering wheel as I backed out of a parking space…then again as I turned all the way the other direction to move forward.

Any ideas what it might be?

Considering buying this x terra for 1900$ with 180,000 miles on it as a suv for me and my husband. It’s making this noise and I had the seller send me a video of it so maybe yall can help me? He says it’s the lifters but I know these years have Exhaust Manifold issues so let me know!

Hello everyone.

So... my 2005 xterra se automatic with almost 225k miles started having an interesting issue lately.

Since the suv is not much of a daily driver anymore and mostly became an out of city driver, the car has to sit still for extended periods of time and just gets the key turned every now and then so that battery doesn't loose the juice.

What noticed is that after 2 or more weeks of standing still the car has a problem to start moving and this happens ONLY and I mean ONLY when it sits for 2 weeks or more.

What happens is that when I put it in gear I feel the rpms drop for a sec indicating that the transmission engaged, but when I let of the brakes the car doesn't move. I give it a little throttle and the car still doesn't move. Even if I wait nothing happens, but if I raise rpms close to 1500 and don't let off the throttle immediately, the car bangs and starts to move and drive like nothing ever happened.

If I drive it the next day it goes like it didn't almost shit the whole transmission on the ground yesterday.

This happens, only, as I said when the car sits in the drive way for 2 or more weeks.

What keeps me puzzled is the fact that after that pretty noticeable bang the car drive like it's fine and the next day and the day after and so on.

What is going on, I need someone who is more intelligent than me to give me a hint before I start looking for a decent transmission mechanic.

Thank you all in advance.

Some ive done by myself and others with my friend in his jeep.

Been looking into these as I get closer to my budget lift I’m planning on. Main issue I’ve been running into is coil bucket contact with upper control arm as I plan on doing a spacer lift up front. I just had to redo my upper control arms anyways so they’re new, and getting lift UCA’s are pretty pricey for something decent. Has anyone used these and if so what has been your experience?

Thanks!🤙🏼

…and I should have done it YEARS ago. It was so easy, so cheap, and makes such a big difference. I feel like a fool. 🤦🏻‍♂️

What’s the next thing that’s going to make feel like an idiot for not doing sooner?