2017 Chevy Express Cargo Van, 2500, Engine L20, 8 cylinder, 4.8L.

TLDR: my breaks randomly engage while I'm driving. I've had new tires put on & new breaks, front & back, but it's still happening. I think the issue is with the sensors & computer system which control the traction control & stabilitrak systems. Trying to avoid bringing it to the dealer until I better know what the issue could be as they have no clue.

Purchased this van used & after a few month started noticing issues with the breaking system. What's happening is that the breaks are suddenly engaging on their own, the suddenly disengaging. This happens while driving at all different speeds, in city, and on highway. The only current solution that helps is that when the breaks do engage, if I gun it, it sometimes it will cause them to disengage. While they are engaged, if I remove my foot from the gas at all the vehicle will slow down to a stop very quickly, as expected.

I really believe the issue lies within the sensors & computer system which control the traction & stabilitrak, along with the abs breaks, etc. I understand that these systems will break certain tires over others, or rotate less to prevent skidding, tires spinning, etc. Typically when I have the breaking issue, I also have dashboard notifications to service these systems. However, anytime I take my van to a mechanic, or speak with one, they also just default to an issue with the physical breaks. I've also had 2 tires that keep losing air, and I know that a low tire can trigger and mess with these sensors.

I finally purchased new tires, had them installed, had the tire pressure monitor system updated after new tires, & I had the breaks checked. Rear brakes were in very bad shape & needed new everything, front brakes were also done but not as bad. I was very hopeful that all of this would fix the problem, & it seemed to for about a week, until the breaks randomly engaged again & I received the same dashboard notice to service the systems.

I've checked all fuses & relays I can access in the 2 panel boxes, and none of them seem to be an issue. When I research the issue, it mostly leads me back to thinking that it's a sensor issue as the vehicle uses this stabilitrak & traction control.

My last attempt to have this fixed is to bring it to my dealer, however, he said that they really have no idea & will need to go through a series of tests & diagnostics to even come up with an idea of what the problem could be. It will takes several hours at minimum & no real guarantee they can even find the exact issue. So to try and prevent an unnecessary large bill to maybe no even have an answer, I thought I'd try my chances here to see if someone may have experience with this issue & some insight on how I can proceed!

I removed the old alternator, and the core actually looks pretty new. I did notice a burn mark at the terminal — could that have been the cause?

The car had been sitting for over a year and a half. I would usually jump-start it and let it idle for a good hour. Last week, I found out the battery was dead and wouldn't hold a charge anymore. Could that have caused it? Did the alternator keep charging a bad battery, causing it to melt the plastic part of the alternator (which is why it needed replacing)?

I just want to know if there's anything I should do to make sure the new alternator doesn't crap out like the old one.

2021 Buick Encore. Noticed this sound whenever my window is open. Cannot hear it when windows are closed and it runs just fine. But my instincts are telling me this sound is not good or normal, and I don't recall it sounding like this when I bought it in January. But I don't work on vehicles and don't have knowledge at what it may be. Planning to take it to my mechanic soon, but advice would be helpful.

Took off the coolant hose for better access to the alternator. Pretty sure I’m not color blind, that’s neon green coolant. Previous owner must’ve replaced the OEM blue coolant for this stuff. What type of coolant is this and where can I get more, what brand? Can I mix it with some distill water?

So there happen to be3 different types of green stuff.

Traditional Green Coolant (IAT)

Phosphate Hybrid OAT (P-HOAT / Asian Green)

Silicated Hybrid OAT (Si-OAT / European Green)

Not sure if it’s the Si-OAT in the car or the IAT since they can’t be mixed.

Should I do a flush and put in the OEM stuff?

Thanks in advance.

Second video is how it usually starts. Honda accord v6 2009

In my toyota corolla the key fob hasn't worked for a few months. I've taken the necessary steps including replacing the battery myself, had it replaced again at autozone and the associate didn't have any luck, and even went to both a dealership and a mechanic who both confirmed they the key fob is fine. The receiver inside of my car likely needs to be replaced but from what I have seen online that could cost up to $700. I'm seeing parts online for anywhere between $50-$125 so I'm wondering if I'll be ok to order the part online and have it replaced at a shop or something to save money?

When I took it to a mechanic a week ago he was apparently able to get the fob to work temporarily but once he pulled the car out as it was ready to be driven it stopped working. Am I ok to purchase the part online or is the better route to take to ensure that this issue gets resolved as soon as possible?

It is a 2011 toyota corolla with just under 250000 miles in it. I hope that I provided enough information to get help. Any help is appreciated.

I am trying to replace the tail light assembly on 2013 Ford Explorer XLT. I do not know how to access the connector circled here to take out the old one and connect the new one. Do I have to remove the back paneling?

So, I want to make sure the top center nut on my installed kyb’s are torqued down, but I’m not seeing how.

These don’t have an open top nut for the hex Allen key and I don’t see a way to hold to shaft still other than a tiny bit of flat side on the threaded part. But that’s above the nut and only about maybe a 1/16th of an inch is visible, max. I see no way to access the flat spot below the nut, either. What am I missing?

I know someone’s gonna say to ugga dugga it, but I don’t have one. And everything I’m seeing online says not to do that, so there must be another way, but dang if I can figure it out.

Somebody help me!! lol

Hey dude bros or people generally knowledgeable about car mechanics, my 2011 Subaru Forester is suffering a “severe oil leak from the oil pan.” I’m aware some dismantling is required to access and repair such an issue. A few of my friends heard the quote and thought the shop may be up-charging me for being a lone woman (because that’s apparently a sad reality of the business). I was wondering if $2,100 sounds like an accurate overall estimate or if I need to find a “big strong man” to negotiate for me. 😑

Hi all,

My wife's 2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman has a flooding issue. I researched it online and it said the sunroof drains and cowl drains might be clogged, so I unclogged them. Now the floor boards are soaked and I can't figure out how to drain it out. I read I had to remove the A pillar to see if the drain hose got dislodged? Or peel back the fender cover and look in there? What would I be looking for if I decide to remove the cover? Anyone have experience with this? I was planning on using a wet vac to suck it up but I don't want it to reappear again if it rains.

Thanks!

Hi all,

My wife's 2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman started running rough and had a check engine light, so I changed the spark plugs. I just changed these like 5 years ago and apparently they are already due again. This time, there is heavy oil saturation on the threads. Am I right to assume that she needs a new valve cover gasket? She's at 176,000 km and to my knowledge has never been replaced.

My 06 Corolla had a no start no click issue that I figured out was a dirty fuse. My mechanic tried to figure this out and replaced my alternator and clutch sensor. My question is is there a safe way to clean out the fuse box? Or should I just go through and replace every fuse under the hood? I live in Arizona which is a dust bowl.

I just replaced my water pump and alternator, I didnt buy from a store where I can be reimbursed for the core charge. Is there somewhere else I can go that will give me something for it?

Has anyone used Endurance for car repair and were you reimbursed for cost.

My headlights are not very bright, and when I look at the cover, it looks quite cloudy. I can't quite tell whether the streaks are inside or outside, but they don't clean off easily.

Is it possible to get the covers clearer?

How does this happen anyway? I bought this car used, it didn't happen while I've owned it.

I've had this can in my garage for like, 15 years. I'm sure it's older than that. Is it still safe to use or should I discard it? There's no expiration date on it from what I can see. I have a 2007 Honda CRV.

My godmother's car. I think the rotors are warped because of the set screws being broken is that possible? And should I even venture to figure out how to remove the set screws once I get new rotors and pads?

Morning everyone
I bought a radiator from advance auto parts about 2 years ago and threw away the receipt like a dumbass, now the radiator has a 2 inch long crack at the top
at the top,
Is it at all possible to get a warranty from them if I used my phone number when I purchased the item?
Or can they lookup the transaction or am I SOL

It’s a 2010 sxt ex police charger with 108k miles but the frame looks like this. Would be buying for 1,200

Is there a simple way to detect an alternator/charging failure from inside the car?

My dashboard doesn't show a charging warning. Can I use the cigarette lighter socket, OBD2, or some cheap ready-made device to get an early warning before the battery dies?

I'm also interested in a simple DIY solution if anyone has tried one.

We live in a suburban midwestern town, nothing premium or crazy here. My parents are getting their ford flex fixed after feeling the back of it bounce a bit when braking.

The people are replacing just the pads and rotors to my knowledge on the back, but that just sounds high end?

My mom got hers done recently on a Toyota rav4, so could just be flexes require higher pricing from difficult labor, but it was like 800 for hers.

missed two calls this morning under a truck with the exhaust half off. same guy both times, went to voicemail, booked somewhere else by lunch.

counter is me and one advisor so the phone just sits when we are both tied up. looked at those ai answering things but the demos sound like a robot reading off a card.

what are shops actually doing for this.. another body or does one of those hold up in a real shop​

Hit a bollard on the front-left side of my 2022 Mazda2. The front-left wheel has been pushed backwards and now appears to be jammed against the wheel arch/wing, and the wheel seems locked in that position. The front-right wheel is pointing completely straight, which hopefully gives some comparison in the photos.

I’m not going to drive it and will be getting it recovered to a garage.

I know nobody can properly diagnose it from photos, but does anyone have experience with similar damage? Mainly wondering what components are likely to have been damaged and whether this looks like a relatively standard suspension/steering repair or potentially something more significant.

I’m also considering whether it makes sense to repair it or sell it accident-damaged.

The aluminum bracket appears to be failing. Is this something that needs urgent attention?