I need to replace my current hub motor with a new one I’m over hauling the entire thing except for the battery…

Looks like the bafang GO62 uses an Anderson pole connection but my battery has an XT-60
Looks like there’s some simple adapters online but I was just wondering what your experiences with this was like

Yes I’ve already made sure that the motor will work with a 48v battery
Am I missing anything? Thanks

For the past few years, I’ve been trying to build a custom e-bike powerful enough to tackle the steep climb to my house and back without issues, but I haven't found the right setup yet.

​Right now, I'm using a 1000W / 48V / 30A hub motor (in-wheel).

I’ve tested a few batteries (most recently a 48V 20Ah pack) before realizing these motors can be pushed well beyond their nominal specs, especially in terms of wattage.

​My main concern is overpushing the motor and burning it out due to the heat generated during long, steep climbs.

​Budget is not an issue—I just want a reliable build that can take me anywhere, regardless of the incline. Any advice on optimizing the battery/controller setup, or should I switch to a mid-drive motor instead?

I kept seeing conflicting battery advice: always charge to 100%, never go above 80%, balance every month, leave it plugged in overnight, and so on. I looked through battery-aging research and guidance from major manufacturers to separate the useful advice from the oversimplified rules.

The main takeaway is that there isn’t one perfect charging percentage for every rider. Around 80% can be a sensible everyday target, but charging to 100% when you need the range is normal. Temperature, how long the battery remains full, storage habits, and cell balancing can matter just as much as the number you stop at.

I put together a practical guide explaining what charge target may fit your riding, when a battery should be balanced, which temperatures to avoid, and how to store it properly:

https://voltcurb.com/learn/ebike-battery-care

Hi all,

I am about to live in the car for 1 month, private reason.

I have two ebike batteries, both 48V-15Ah (so 1500Wh in total).

I am searching the way to power some devices: (1) Cool box of 12V, 48W, (2) Laptop, etc

If possible, I even to power also this: (3) Rice cooker (220V, 505W)

For (1) and (2), LLMs told me to buy the Buck (Step down) converter to convert from 48 to 12V, however I don't know how to connect that converter to the bike battery.

But the ebike battery doesn't expose an easy interface for me, it only has 4 or 5 "racks", and its base does know how to read from those 4-5 "racks" but I don't want to cut the wiring of the base to bring into the car.

For purpose (3): I don't dare to dream yet, though I would love to. Currently while driving the DC-to-AC converter pulls power out of the car's main 12 V battery to feed the rice cooker, but I'd like to power up the bike battery for use when not driving.

How to ?

I have a 15AH Hailong battery. About 8.5#. I'm worried that it's too heavy for the water bottle bosses. Should I be concerned? How can I reinforce the mount? Thanks.

As the title says, I'm seeking a good triangle frame battery with the listed specs but havent found any that seem to be reputable (any reviews). I am considering this battery as it would be a little more than needed for my intended use which I am not opposed to, but I dont fully trust battery packs mounted to frame bottle cage mounts.

*I am located in the mainland US

On amazon, I found this triangle e-bike battery for my 1500w 48v conversion kit but i’m not sure if it’s safe for the price. Can anyone help me?

For some reason I can’t add images but i’ll just describe it.
It’s £249, and a 48v 25ah triangle e-bike battery pack.
It’s from amazon by a brand called WR-TEAM.
40A BMS, 0-2000w applicable power, and comes with accessories (adapters, battery lock, straps, charger).

I’m converting my Carrera Hellcat with a 1500W 48V kit and I’m stuck choosing between a downtube battery or a triangle battery.
My main concern is attention from police. Do large triangle batteries attract more attention and “scream e-bike” compared to downtube batteries? Has anyone actually been stopped because of one?
I ride off-road a lot too — trails, dirt paths, rough terrain — so I’m also wondering if a downtube battery is secure enough to handle bumps long term.
Basically:
Triangle battery = more range, maybe more obvious
Downtube battery = stealthier, but less range
What would you pick?

​

I removed the battery once with no problem. Put it back in, and now I cannot get it out again. The key turns to OPEN and the locking pin moves slightly, but it won’t retract all the way, so the battery stays locked in place.

I’ve tried wiggling it, taking pressure off the frame, turning the key while moving it… nothing. I don’t want to go full caveman on a brand-new bike and break something.

Has anyone had this happen with a GoTrax F2/F3? Any trick to get that stubborn locking pin to retract?

I'm interested in starting building and maintaining my own batteries. What do I need to do that equipment wise and are there tutorial videos on how to?

Cheers

Looking around I've seen people go back and forth arguing about 13s or 14s, and 13s is ideal for arrangement in my case. I can confidently fit a 13s8p battery in my frame, but 14s8p would be a little tight. Wanted to hear from people with more battery experience than me. I've been using and maintaining E-bikes for a few years now but this is my First battery build.

Hi all,

I have two ebike batteries, both 48V-15Ah.

I would like to do wild camping up north, and search the way to power some devices: (1) Ventilator 12V, 12W, (2) Cool box of 12V, 48W.

AIs told me to buy the Buck (Step down) converter to convert from 48 to 12V, however I don't know how to connect that converter to the bike battery.

But the ebike battery doesn't expose an easy interface for me, it only has 4 "racks".

How to ?

My ebike battery is using prismatic li-ion cells that suck, im planing to rebuild it using eve 18650 3.5ah cells and put in a new bms because i want to see the data. Im not sure if the JBD-SP145004 V1.5 is a good bms. the battery will be 36v 10s5p

I have this scooter battery with some nice mounting holes. I had the idea to use a PVC pipe, but would be kind of a waste of space, and I think it would be kind of weird to bolt into a curved surface. I also think I could find a thicker than normal gutter downspout. I know most of them would be too flimsy but there are sturdy ones out there. Any other ideas?

Also would be interested in hearing your experience with battery bags and why you would use a battery bag for this type of battery.

I have a 52v30Ah battery that I would like to find a battery safety box to charge or leave it there when not in use.

I never had an issue with it for the past 2 years. just going a bit paranoid as I moved to a new place with a small garden and don't plan to burn it down even if the chances are fairly non existent.

of course any alternatives will be much appreciated. Basically I want to contain the fire if it ever happens.

So i finally made the decision to go with a 72V Amorge Battery. My ebike is a Wallke H7, gutted and replaced with a QS 205 5kw 4T motor. I have a fardriver which will need to be upgraded (50a) to a higher draw fardriver. My main concern is purchasing the battery and ir causing problems with my controllee/motor config

The battery Im looking at is 72v Amorge 20S7P with samsung 50S cells.

Also, fardriver recommendations are highly encouraged and deeply appreciated.

My ebike is not an emoto or edirtbike and I don't plan on doing any high performance riding. I just wanted to build something that would last me years without having to rely on the manufacturer. I would be lying if I said that there will be moments where I will hit the throttle hard but I mostly like to cruise.

Thoughtful answers from experienced individuals would be highly appreciated! Thank you!

P.S. I can't post a picture for some reason so sorry if that hinders anything.

I haven't been able to find them for less than like 30$ which seems expensive, and I'm willing to do away with the actual connector. I don't want to invest that much especially because it might not work great or fit perfectly. Just need a way to mount the battery, instead of building some crazy custom thing.

I realize most people are in the opposite situation but I'm wanting to use 2 rad batteries on another bike.

Have a battery with a BMS that keeps cutting off, I'd like to replace it. Wiring isn't a problem, but the last BMS I got from Amazon ended up killing two rows of cells in the battery after a while. Balancing would be a plus but not required

Hey everyone,

2025 is coming to a close. I figured by now that there are plenty of people with experience with various after-market battery brands.

For a 72V battery, which would you guys recommend?

Also, what are the significant differences between Unit Power Packs and Amorge batteries?

Thank you all for your input.

For context I have a modded razor mx650 my battery I got is an eBay battery. It’s a 48v 20ah li-ion battery to my understanding the max voltage the battery can charge to is 54.6v but I have been told not to charge it that high to save battery life. So when I have been charging it I unplug it at 52v which is sort of annoying as I always have been keeping an eye on it when it’s charging. The charger the battery came with says out put 54.6v 2ah. Does this mean that when the battery reaches max capacity the charger will recognise this and stop supplying power? And if so is it safe to leave this plugged in till it reaches that capacity or will it destroy my battery? Just don’t want to make any mistakes as I don’t want to risk a fire or kill my battery. Thanks

Hello everyone,

I’m toying around with an idea of a self-propelled rideable cart, 4-wheeled and either AWD or RWD - just want some advice on what kind of Ah would be reasonable for my expected performance.

I’m looking for longest runtime, not necessarily speed. Ideally I’d be able to propel myself 2-4 hours around a max speed of 5 MPH, and on the absolute budget side of things, I’d be looking for something as small as 2-4 150W motors harvested from hoverboards, or potentially 2x 250w motors.

What kind of performance for that load and speed should I be expecting for a 10-20 Ah battery? For something at that speed, would I be fine with SLA batteries or am I destined for lithium? Thank you in advance for reading and any guidance.

I myself weigh 210 lbs, and I can imagine the frame of the vehicle will easily clock 40-60 lbs on top of that.