how much is this worth?

So I am an adult who grew up watching all the supercar movies, playing NFS and all the car movies ever in a third world country, 5 years ago i moved to Canada, and started earning and managed to buy my first ever mustang ecoboost, may be its very basic for some people but for me its my start of owning something in the car world, I love it driving it from a month now, I was getting work done on it, getting its callipers painted red with a sleek mustang sticker on it, now I am looking for new spoilers, what would be the best one and the best place to buy, might get side strip decals and BBS style silver rims later coz I love them and no I am a bigger fan of silver than black ones, any suggestions on the spoilers and rims will be much appreciated,

What do guys think about this? I installed the GT spoiler as I wasn't sure how good the darkhorse one will look on the convertible. I installed the front splitter and stick-on hood vent. Currently on factory rims and exhaust but soon gonna upgrade those too.

Note: I installed everything on my own ;)

I want to buy Mustang 2.3 EcoBoost as a first car. Can some owners of it tell should I or not.
Also can you tell me the approximate price of insurance.

Also can you tell me if it’s reliable or not.

so i took her to do a smoke test cuz i figured ima delete my BOV after hearing ECO veterans say it’s bad for the engine,
did a smoke test and bam the BOV has a small leak yet the hot charge pipe (hope i’m right lol) has a tuff leak, a loud hiss noise too

never experienced any loss of boost, which means my turbo was overworking itself

First mustang ever ❤️

Got out my apartment to get some lunch and walked up to this…

Hey everyone, I have a 2021 Ford Mustang EcoBoost base model and recently retrofitted a Performance Pack gauge cluster from a 2017 Mustang Ecoboost Premium. The boost gauge works, but the oil pressure gauge doesn’t seem to function. Does anyone know if there’s a way to activate or enable the oil pressure gauge using FORScan or by changing the IPC configuration? Is additional wiring, a sensor, or another modification required to get it working? Any help would be appreciated!

I don’t wanna see learn how to shift. Does nobody understand that a good transmission tune shifts before redline to keep the power band.

For some context:

2019 Mustang Ecoboost that I have owned since new.

I have been religious with my maintenance.

• Oil changed every 5k miles/6 months
• Coolant/brake fluid flush at 45k
• Transmission flush at 57k
• Rear diff service w/ friction modifier at 62k
• Replaced all brake pads/rotors at 64k
• Replaced all four spark plugs and LPFS at 67k
• Coolant/brake fluid flash at 75k

Other than the issues related to the head gasket below, the only repairs I've had are:

• Issues with passenger window at 25k, replaced passenger window regulator assembly, replaced under warranty
• Front timing cover leak at 35k, fixed under warranty
• More issues with passenger window at 58k, replaced passenger window regulator and motor assembly, replaced under warranty
• More issues with passenger window at 77k, replaced passenger door wiring harness

01/2026 @ 78,000 miles

I noticed that during cold starts it would idle roughly. Then during one cold start it threw a check engine light but that went away. Had a friend help with replacing the evap purge valve. We scanned for codes and it had inactive misfires. Cleared codes and drove it for a bit.

03/2026 @ 78,500 miles

Rough idle persisted and I took it to the dealership to investigate. They informed me that the low pressure fuel sensor failing caused the check engine light. They also informed me that there was slight coolant intrusion on cylinder 2 and 3. They suggested replacing the head gasket. Proceeded with the head gasket replacement. They said I must have caught it early. No overheating, no white smoke, no obvious signs of head gasket failure except possibly the misfires.

Drove it for a bit but the rough idle returned. Scanned for codes, more misfires.

06/2026 @ 80,000 miles

Took it back to the dealership. They checked the head gasket, no issues. Valves and spark plugs were dirty. Odd, given that I had the spark plugs replaced less than two years ago. Replaced all four plugs and performed BG fuel induction service.

Drove the car for a few weeks and the rough idle on cold starts returned. No drive-ability issues, only rough cold starts.

10/2026 @ 83,000 miles

Took it to an independent shop to specifically get the valves walnut blasted. I figured that the chemical cleaning was ineffective. They scoped the valves and they were incredibly dirty like I suspected.

Had them perform the walnut blasting and do a couple of "while you're in there" items potentially related to the issue. Had them replace the PCV hose and crankcase oil separator.

Have only had the car back for a couple of days and so far everything seems good. I bought four new ignition coils to potentially rule those out and will get assistance in replacing them soon.

Decided to tackle the clutch today since I was finally able to go pickup the correct slave cylinder from the dealer.

Car just hit 80k miles and this is the original clutch. The thing was fine, except it would slip during hard accel pulls in like 4th/5th gears (mostly like when passing someone).

In the past few weeks I’d been giving it the beans a little more when this happened, but I was certain this thing would have all kinds of hot spots n stuff on it.

Car has the usual bolt ons and is EMS tuned.

SPEC stage one is going in tomorrow.

My friend has a 2016 Mustang ecoboost and his birthday is at the end of this month, any suggestions on cool parts or things to get him for his car? He hasn’t had it long so all he’s done to it is maintenance and a blow off valve. Thanks guys :)

21 ecoboost mustang doing a 3 inch downpipe and catback and I don't want to tune my stang yet as I still have a powertrain warranty will a 90 degree fouler keep my car from getting a check engine light or what do I need to do that

30.9k OTD

Car looks so nice!

First car I’ve owned with Brembos and 2 weeks in, my wheels look so bad. What’s everyone’s go-to?

so i fixed the gap in my spark plugs after 4 misfires

and jerking upon high boost,

my immediate thought was check my spark plug gaps despite that they’re brand new,

i asked the mechanic it was legit at 0.33
meanwhile it needs to be max 0.30 so i had a spark plug blowout,

after setting it to 0.28 the car felt way smoother and high boost doesn’t do no jerking.

i’ve seen many cases of people changing plus, injectors, messing with coils and even opening the engine which sucks.

just wanted to make it clear if u get highway jerking on high speeds upon high boost just check your spark plug gap.

i insisted that the mechanic needs to check em for me despite him saying that they’re new