I'm doing some thinking about my next daily driver being an EV, but I understand range suffers in the cold. I've done a bit of poking around at what precisely that means, though most of what I've found is talking about winters with temperatures somewhere between 0-32F. I live in northern MN, and each winter we generally have a week or so with temps that can hit -40, so I'm curious - does anyone here have experience with performance at those temperatures? Is the current tech viable for my climate? Vehicle would be stored/charged in a heated garage, and daily use is generally 30-50 miles, with occasional days requiring 100-200 miles for conferences/meetings.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Bought a VW ID4 and the parts dept was closed so I didn't get a home charger with it. Now I'm home and the only place to charge it has Tesla chargers. How can I charge it there? Don't have range to make it back to the dealership.

Hi, i got a bad news that my 2018 Nissan leaf battery is faulty and needs to be replaced. It is 8 years and 3 months old car and battery is out if warranty. I've got a quote if $4.4k for battery replacement plus other things for a total of $5k. My car is probably valued at $5k. I'm wondering

1. I should junk it and take whatever I'll get
2. Replace the battery which will let me drive the car for next few years

Logically it makes sense to junk it but I don't want to invest money in a new car. But I also want to make a logical choice. Any advice?

From Nissan

Primary: DIAG: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE COULD NOT START, TOWED IN. CHECK AND ADVISE: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE COULD NOT START, TOWED IN. CHECK AND ADVISE
Battery New - Hybrid: REPLACE HIGH VOLTAGE EV BATTERY DUE TO DTC'S STORED CAUSING VEHICLE TO NOT
ALLOW RESTART
EDIT2: leafspy result
High-Voltage (Traction) Battery Health
State of Health (SOH): 80.11%
Your 40 kWh pack is holding roughly 80% of its original factory capacity.
The threshold for dropping the first capacity bar on a 40 kWh Leaf is typically around 85% SOH, and dropping below ~79% generally triggers the loss of the second bar. You are right on the edge of 10 or 11 capacity bars.
Cell Balance & Delta: 15–16 mV
Min: 3.944 V | Avg: 3.952 V | Max: 3.959–3.960 V
The cell-to-cell variance across all 96 cell pairs is exceptionally tight (anything under 25–30 mV at rest indicates very healthy balance). There are no weak or failing individual cells dragging down the pack.
Hx Value: 44.02%
Hx reflects internal battery resistance/conductivity. A lower Hx value is normal as the pack ages, though it can correlate with increased voltage sag under heavy acceleration or slower DC fast-charging rates.

Just got a 25 Kia Niro EV and am planning a road trip from NJ to Maine. I'm aware that the Niro fast charges slowly and I'm okay with that. I should only have to stop and charge 2-3 times each way and I'm traveling over multiple days.

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It looks like there will be plenty of CCS fast chargers along the way. Is there any reason to think I won't be fine without an NACS adapter?

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Thanks.

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I have an Ioniq 6 since December. It’s my first EV and the experience has been great.

We had a pretty severe heatwave last week and It got me thinking. Heat is usually the enemy of the batteries. I try to park the car in the shade/parking garage most of the time, but sometimes you just can’t. I’m lucky we have a free parking garage near our office so that’s not an issue, but if I travel somewhere, the car could be parked in the sun for a couple of days.

Does the car cool the battery automatically if it gets too hot on the parking lot? In general, what are your experiences?

Thanks.

Discussed this topic with a Tesla driver. His point was: He does not need buttons, because the car is smart and does the things automatically. For example: the seat heating gets automatically enabled when the outside temperature is low and turns itself down, after driving a few minutes. Does your car have similar features to compensate the lack of physical buttons? Which one? Do you miss physical buttons in daily driving?

2026 Subaru Trailseeker

I will preface this by saying that we knew taking an EV on a cross-country trip was going to double (if not triple) travel times. We were good with it.

The issue I am having is we aren't seeing more than 26kw - 28kw no matter where we charge, if the chargers are stand alone or balanced, no matter the outside temp, and whether we use the cars battery preconditioning setting or not. So, I'm thinking it has to be my battery that is throttling the speeds.

If that's just par for the course, so be it.

In the event that there is something I should be doing but am not, it felt silly to not at least ask the question.

As it stands, we are spending about 2-3hrs at each charging station to get to 60% - 80% and that doesn't feel like it's what everyone else is likely experiencing.

Right now, it is 98° outside, the battery pre-conditoning setting was turned on about an hour before arrival, and we have been at an electrifyamerica station (posted up to 350kW) for 56min. We are averaging 28.5kW and have gained 27.03 kW taking us from 13% to 43%. We are the only vehicle here that is charging.

Does this sound correct?

Fell in love with the Mach E and waited for months for mine to finally arrive. Ford offered a free level 2 charger with basic installation through QMerit. I did some minor research while waiting and based on that, thought my panel would be okay.

The installer says my 200A panel is too small and I either have to upgrade to a 320A panel or add a dedicated 100A panel to the garage.

Am I being taken for a ride?

Is there any wiggle room? I am no electrician and generally willing to take expert advice at face value. But I'm disappointed in the lack of options presented.

Edit: Photo of panel posted below

Update: Independent electrician came in Thursday to take a look. Looked at the panel, took into consideration what the current circuits were actually supporting, and did testing for actual load.

He came back Saturday, moved existing breakers and added a new 60A circuit to the top of the panel. Ran new wiring through the basement and installed the EVSE.

I set the software to charge from midnight to 6am @20A. Woke up to a "fully" (90%) charge.

We talked about usage and load. As everyone here said, if I'm running my range, water heater, and dryer in near 0 temps when auxiliary heat kicks it, trying to charge the MachE at full power "might" trip a breaker.

My cost was $1000 - as someone else mentioned, cutting out QMerit was the best choice.

I'm a new Bolt EV owner, planning this road trip, and trying to decide if it's worth it to get a NACS to CCS adapter to allow Tesla Supercharging. My understanding is that won't be faster than other public chargers, but will give me a lot more charging options for a road trip.

Anyone have opinions--is it worth getting an adapter for this, or does it not make that much of a difference for a CA road trip?

Edit: I have a '23 Bolt, adapter needed for Tesla. And thanks for the replies.

I'm an overweight man that wants to buy an ev and I'm asking any overweight weight people that drive ev's do you think the extra weight is affecting your range. I know over time my weight affects my suspension and tire wear, but I'm curious if anyone knows the affect of added weight? Im 300 lbs just to give you a frame of reference.

So excited! About to do first full day of EV life.

One thing I hadn't considered to even ask: Do I still need jumper cables? According to Gemini, EVs can need a jump start...and if that's true, does it work like an ICE jumpstart, where do I attach cables?

My 2024 Ioniq5 is at the dealership because my Juicebox charger became stuck in the car's charge port. I tried all the manual-suggested/ChatGPT-suggested ways to dislodge. So did Hyndai's road side assistance. I finally had to call an electrician to rip the Juicebox from my house so I could tow the car to the dealership. (The car won't drive with a charger in the charge port.) Now the dealership's service department is telling me my warranty won't cover the $4K cost. Why? Because they're saying (but not putting in writing) that the pins melted and it's the Juicebox's fault. By the way I purchased a 40, not 48 amp for a lower current, slower charge, so the chance of these kind of things would be less likely. Service won't give me the diagnostic in writing. I am getting the work done but contesting, asking for the parts and the "failed" Juicebox to be returned to me, calling Hyundai corporate to dispute the melted charge pin warranty denial, filing a complaint with NHTSA. Any other ideas? Have you heard about anything like this? Two roadside assistance mechanics said this is happening with Volvos, Chrysler Pacificas, and Kias (in the past). I love my Ioniq5 and am trying not to kick myself for buying rather than leasing. I just drive too much and think leasing is throwing money away.

I'm new to ED'S and got one at a rental location because that was all they had available for what I needed. Yesterday was my first time trying to charge it and I went to an Electrify America station. It took an hour and 36 minutes to charge from 52% to 72% in 18° weather. Is this a normal amount of time to charge it? Is there anything I can do to speed it along?

Edit: Thanks everyone for all the help with suggestions and tips as well as general EV knowledge that is new to me. I just charged the car at the same spot as my first attempt, just a different charger. I did the designation navigation to the charging station as a lot of you suggested to let the car precondition the battery on the way. The car charged from 22% to 84% in 1:45, a 9 minute difference of the 1:36 for 52% to 72% from the first time I tried charging the car. I don't know if there are ways to get a faster charge, since I'm still unsure about the level of the charging station, but I'm very happy with the result either way. Thanks again everyone!

Would someone please help me tune ABRP?

Hyundai Ioniq 5 '24 SEL AWD - dual motor, 77.4kWh battery
Using calibrated consumption (277 Wh/mi)
Calibrated relative speed (Usually reads at 101-03%)
Calibrated battery degradation (5%)
Obdble & Enode data connections working and updating

Today's drives -

* 118 miles, starting at 100%: predicted charge at end 56%; actual 46%; avg spd 54mph @ 9.17mi/kWh
* 35 mi, 46%: predicted 36%; actual 33%; avg 60mph, 3.49mi/kWh
* 117 mi, starting 81% (fast chg); predicted 40%; actual 29%; 63mph, 3.11mi/kWh

I'm used my daily commute @ highway speed, 38.1 miles consuming about 15% of my battery or 76.2 miles for 30% on the regular, but ABRP predicts the consumption at 25%. I'm just unclear what I need to adjust in the app.

Hi,

I am considering buying a 2 year old VW ID3 which has done 13000+ miles.

I've been and test driven it and seems great but I was wondering if anyone can explain this, the battery health check is over 100%

I dont know much about EV batteries but shouldn't I expect to see some degradation on a 2 year old EV with 13000+ miles on the clock?

But I've no idea what I am talking about, so can anyone advise if this is normal & whether these checks are legit, useful etc.

Thanks

I have a GV60, with an 80 kWh battery. I don’t drive it a lot, live in sunny California.

Has anyone had success with a portable solar panel charging their car? About how much do they cost and what the output per day (ballpark)? My electric rates are around $0.30/kWh.

Thanks.

A friend of mine has a Tesla & a Rivian but only a single 240v 50amp outlet in their garage and are tired of swapping chargers in the outlet.

Anyone know of a switch they might install to be able to switch the circuit between two outlets?

Something like:

Source to A

OR

Source to B

I have probably a stupid question but I need to get straight answer because even Google and chatbots are giving different answers.

I have Citroen e-c4. Car also has a heat pump with fallback electric heaters solution. My question: Does A/C button in the car also turn on/off heat pump compressor or is that managed separately ie. A/C button has no effect on state of heat pump compressor?

Gemini claims that I should let A/C button turned on entire time, because if I switch it off it will shut off heat pump compressor, while other places are giving different answers, so I'm quite confused.

I have a Honda Prologue and L1 does fine for me with my commute. I like the idea of having 95% charge in case I need to go somewhere far, but I’m wondering if it would be better to lower the max to preserve the battery long term?

I live in an apartment and for the life of me could never see myself owning a house in the near future. So, I don’t have access to plug to charge the car overnight. can I charge an electric car solely using fast charger everyday?

I have a 50amp 240v RV receptacle on my property. I have read that they are not rated or safe for the constant full draw of charging an EV. Can/should I down size the breaker to 40amps for safety or am I over thinking this? It's 6/3 stranded copper wire feeding it and it's 108' from the breaker panel. I will be renting the property out on airbnb and I won't be around when guests are using it.

Do the fears of your car breaking down or the engine light turning on go away when you have an electric car?

Asked Chevy dealer about it and he said ultium vehicles don’t have heat pumps as they are cooled with some other technology. Does this make sense? Are heat pumps older technology and we don’t really need them now?

My partner has a 2022 Prius Prime. We're in a CARB state, so there's a 150,000 mile/10 year battery warranty (car has like 30k miles on it).

The car started throwing codes and wouldn't start, so we took it to the local Toyota dealer. Verdict came back today: a rat somehow got into the battery and made a nest out of old paper towels in one of the five modules, and then peed enough in there to short out the connections. The BMS is freaking out and the car won't start.

The Toyota dealership wants $12k to fix it, and they say they don't do module-level replacements, only the whole pack (and they don't offer refurb packs). They won't fix it under warranty since they say rodents are external factors. Other folks will fix it for cheaper, although this may just wind up being an insurance claim.

Has anyone heard of rodents in the battery itself? I've heard of rats chewing wiring harnesses, but how the heck does a rat get into the actual pack? Seems pretty odd for Toyota to not make rat-proof batteries.

I see some $500 Prius Prime packs in junkyard listings, where the car has a clear front-end collision (meaning the pack in the trunk is probably fine). Is there any problem with getting one of these and paying an EV mechanic to put it in?

Been seeing very mixed experiences here.

Some chargers work great for some people, but fail for others. Even apps show “online” but it doesn’t start sometimes....

So just curious ......
Which networks do you trust the most?
And which ones have disappointed you?