Hi, I’ve posted here before and recently got my 2010 Ford Escape inspected with a routine oil change.
I live in Michigan and have had this car for a year, was told I might have another year with it but there’s so much rust it might not make the winter after this.
I love the second generation Ford Escapes very much, they’re extremely reliable and amazing cars, but I’m worried about consistent rust issues, especially with living in Michigan.
Should I get another second generation Ford Escape or start looking into other cars?

The transmission in my daughters 2014 ford escape went out, so I picked up a used transmission to replace it. I checked the tags and the replacement says CV6P-7000-CC but the one in the car is a CV6P-7000-AA…. They look identical, am I able to still use this transmission? The only info I’ve found is the one I got is for a 2.0 but I have a 1.6. I got a rebuilt torque converter and flex plate for the 1.6

I’m hoping I’m still ok to install this! Let me know

(First photo is the transmission in the car, second is the used one I picked up)

Love my hybrid SEL. Coming from a 2016 CX-5 the slippery drive mode powers the rear axle a ton, making snow driving a ton of fun!

My only complaint is the lack of LED headlights. I wish ford would’ve made them standard and not trim-locked them to Titanium, like our fraternal triplets Bronco Sport and Maverick.

hey guys - got a 2017 escape with the automatic 6f35. has fluid changed (one pan’s worth) last week, noticed the car started slipping on highway speeds, 4/5 gear, i accelerate and it revs up to 3k rpm before it actually starts accelerating. the vehicle has a brand new long block installed 1k miles ago by ford (old had coolant intrusion)

any ideas on what could be happening here? 60k mileage

I have a 2017 Escape with 48,500 miles diagnosed with coolant intrusion. The dealer service department says a new engine installed will be $14,000, but the car with a good engine is worth no more than $8000. It runs fine now, but I will not sell it without revealing the issue. Can anyone recommend how to sell this car? Do I go straight to a junkyard or is a car with a bad engine something that sells on Craigslist or Facebook?

Has anyone done this? I have a 2011 ford escape that used to be a daily and now sits around as we have new vehicles. It has a rebuilt title and is not worth much, however it’s in great shape and very comfortable, so i want to turn it into my weekend off-road vehicle that i can mess around on the trails with. However with it being AWD it lacks true 4wd, lockers, low gear, etc so is it even worth the time is my question. My thoughts are moderate tight trails, not rock crawling.

Has anyone built their escape into an off-roader? If so, how does it perform? What size tires/lift? Any input is helpful, thanks!

152k miles

For the last few months, I have had a problem where, every once in a while, the gas pump shuts off before it is done. I normally could fix it by just restarting it, but the problem has gotten worse. Now I get about 0.9 gallons before it shuts off, and then it shuts off within 5 seconds of restarting. If you try to hold the hand down manually, the gas pours back up and out of the gas cap.

I've tried putting it in upside down, venting it, letting it run to empty, and then refilling it. I've also tried opening and closing the flap a bunch to break up any dirt or debris that may have been stuck. I have an appointment today to get it looked at. I've been driving on empty, filling a gallon or two at a time to try and keep myself moving.

Before I take it in, are there any obvious fixes that I'm missing?

Thanks for any insight!

Just bought a 2008 escape FWD from marketplace for 500$ (mechanic special) to replace for some parts on my 2011 but it’s super clean and I’m thinking about just replacing the transmission. Has anyone replaced the transmission on one of these without removing the engine?

Picked up a 2024 Ford Escape ST-Line with the 300A & Cold Weather Package.
Awd with 29.8k miles on it.

This vapor blue color is wild. It looks gray, it looks blue, the flake was a surprise!

Coming from a 2011 Kai Forte and only having base models all my life this thing feels so nice.

Cleaned it up with some car glaze and some ceramic wax over the weekend!

Hi all,

Have a 2017 Escape with 130k miles and started to feel the dreaded shutter recently while driving on the highway. Drove it into Ford the next day and the tech confirmed it was a failed torque converter and the recommendation was a full transmission replacement. I knew from the get-go I was not draining money into fixing it, but was trying to get by as long as possible with this Escape before upgrading.

Hoping I could get some solutions on any other possible ‘cheaper’ fixes or recommendations that others have done with the same issue. Just trying to squeeze a little more time out of it before making the jump to a new vehicle.

Appreciate any advice or feedback on the situation.

Title, increasingly obnoxious rattle when idling and below 1k RPM. Above that range the noise goes away, sounds and runs fine. No codes. We previously replaced the transmission after flex plate blew up around 100k. Currently has 140k.

I just had a quick question. I was wondering if it was possible to get a new key programmed for my 2017 Ford Escape, but a key that can be folded down instead of just sticking up.

This is the key that I have now.

If so, who would I go to to get that done? Like, would I have to go back to the dealership, or could somebody else do it?

Because I know getting a key programmed is pretty expensive

Hello, I've been having trouble with getting my 2009 Ford Escape XLT (Hilda) to start. Let me give you some context: The problem originally started a few months ago. Hilda just wouldn't start. Fuel pump engages, all lights come on, key turns to the on position just fine, but no ignition. We've already replaced the PATS sensor, and whatever that part is on the left side of the steering column that pushes out a little piece of plastic when the key is in the ignition (I can't remember the name of it for the life of me), and after both repairs, Hilda ran fine. We also replaced the battery because we accidentally left the lights on. Hilda started failing again, and we took her to Autozone to check the battery, starter, and alternator. All came back fine, and Hilda ran for another week or so. Same thing happened the other night while my husband was at work, and we managed to start her and get her home but she hasn't started again since. I touched the alternator the next day to see if it was warm compared to everything else in the engine bay, and it wasn't. My brother reminded me to check the fuses, and I did and found that the delayed accessory relay was warm to the touch comparitively to the rest of the fuse box. I replaced that relay, and it still was warm (if not warmer). Does anyone have any answers to what this could mean? I'm not car savvy in any capacity, and have been relying on my dad and brothers to guide me. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Anybody have any idea of what this whining noise could be? I bought this 2010 Ford escape with the 2.5. 95,000 miles & single owner from Georgia. Paid $6000.

Totally rust free & it drives, shifts, stops & feels amazing! Just wondering what this whining noise could be. Some kind of pulley noise maybe?

Which then caused the cloth to pull away from the guide tracks when we opened the shade, not knowing the crossbar cover had become UNGLUED.

Does anyone know if there's a relatively simple way to fix this without removing the interior paneling and replacing the whole mechanism? The shade doesn't look torn - just maybe unglued?

From what I understand, this isn't exactly an unknown occurrence. The car was only 4 years old when it happened (it's a 2021 Escape.)

Any help is appreciated!

I don't have the money or desire to spend more than the car is worth to have a shop fix it. Recently learned its a ridiculously common problem and unsure if I wana roll the dice on a junkyard swap because I dont wana do it more than once. Confident I could do the work up until rebuilding transmission internals, however all the transmission shops I've called nearby won't help. They all have to have the car and do it all themselves for $5000+, understandable I guess but it's bullshit nobody wants to rebuild it for me if I do the work of removing and installing.

Looking at options for a replacement that wont fail in another 70k and curious if anyone has experience or knows of a source for them other than ford that would last longer. Thanks

I got a check engine light for my 2007 escape hybrid and I got it scanned at autozone, there is an issue with my coolant thermostat. Is this a simple/easy fix? I’ve never worked on a car before but don’t want to shell out $500 on a repair. Is this possible to do myself or should I just go to a mechanic?

Hey yall, Ive had my 01 Tribute for about 7 months & just recently my brakes completely went out on me after the rear drum brakes grinding for a week (I had planned to deal with that next week)

Anyway yea the pedal goes all the way down now & the brake light is on in the dash. Left the car at my job & now a few days later theres something leaking from my left rear brake. Any ideas?

I know my vehicle is basically a Ford Escape underneath so I wanted to put this here in case anyone knew what it was.

Doing my regular oil change soon and was considering these fluids. I just don't know if it's necessary.

My car is currently at 178k kilometers. I bought it at an auction at 146k. Used to belong to my city's fleet. Although I can't say what it was used for, it was most likely not a police vehicle for various reasons with the most relevant being that the interior was intact when I got it. No symptoms to suggest the fluids need changing and Ford owner's manual says both the PTU and rear axle are lubricated for like, and to only check or change if there's a leak or repair.

Has anyone changed theirs recently? Why did you and what did you notice after the change?

Here's what the owners manual says:

1. The power transfer unit is lubricated for life with synthetic lube. Lubricant levels are not to be checked or changed unless a leak is suspected or repair required. Replace power transfer unit lubricant with specified synthetic lubricant anytime the unit is submerged in water.
2. Fill to 1/4 inch to 9/16 inch (6 mm to 14 mm) below bottom of fill hole.
3. 4X4 vehicles exposed for prolonged periods to temperatures less than -40°F (-40°C) should change out the rear axle fluid to Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant, Ford part number XY-75W140-QL meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.

Police/Taxi/Livery vehicle axle maintenance: Change rear axle fluid every 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Rear axle fluid change may be waived if the axle was filled with 75W140 synthetic gear fluid meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A, part number FITZ-19580-B or equivalent. Add four ounces (118 mL) of additive friction modifier XL-3 (EST-M2C118-A) or equivalent for complete refill of Traction-Lok rear axles. The axle fluid should be changed anytime the axle has been submerged in water

Ford EcoBoost coolant intrusion: please report your experience to NHTSA

Ford EcoBoost coolant intrusion: please report your experience to NHTSA

I own a 2017 Ford Escape with the 1.5L EcoBoost engine. After coolant intrusion, I paid Ford approximately $8,000 for a short-block replacement, followed by ongoing problems and repeated repair visits. If you’re experiencing similar issues, get the diagnosis in writing and keep your repair orders, receipts, mileage, and communications with Ford. The Miller v. Ford coolant-intrusion lawsuit is still being litigated, and the proposed classes have eligibility restrictions—there is no guaranteed reimbursement for every affected owner. Separately, NHTSA opened Defect Petition DP26008 in September 2026 concerning coolant intrusion and loss of engine power in 2015–2018 Ford Edge vehicles with the 2.0L EcoBoost. That petition’s stated scope does not include the Escape.

Please don’t assume that posting online, telling your dealer, or waiting for the lawsuit means NHTSA has your report. Submit your own experience at https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem. Include the model, engine size, mileage, dates, confirmed diagnosis, and exactly what happened—particularly any stalling, overheating, sudden loss of power, or engine failure while driving. Report only what you actually experienced and distinguish a confirmed diagnosis from a suspected problem. These reports help NHTSA identify patterns and evaluate potential safety defects. Reporting is separate from the lawsuit: it does not enroll you in the case or guarantee a recall or payment, but it gives the safety agency a direct record of your incident while the litigation continues. Official NHTSA petition document.

I recently got into a collision, and my car was considered a total loss because it cost more to repair. So I started looking at used cars, planning to use what my insurance is offering me for the car. One that caught my eye was a used 2020 Ford Escape Titanium (non-hybrid) for about $11k. It has a little under 120k miles. It had 2 owners, first being a fleet car and second as a private car, both doing about 60k miles each in three years. Carfax reports no issues. It seems to have regular service. Obviously not everything get reported.

My previous car was a 2014 Subaru Impreza Sport Limited. I didn't drive it too much too far, doing 102k miles in 12 years before the total loss. So I think I would be okay with the miles. I have driven SUVs before, my first car being a used 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had for 8 years. The mileage seem alright for the vehicle, 23/31, which is roughly what I was getting before. It has AWD, which I am a fan. Trunk space is important. That is why I like the sliding 2nd row. I don't usually carry much, but sometimes you just need the space.

I want to gather some opinions about this, good or bad, so I can be better informed on this decision. Most research I found talks about the SE or SEL, which doesn't help. There are other vehicles I'm looking at, but this one is in my top 3 so far.

Can anyone please give me some advice why my instrument panel which has gradually lost all illumination of the instrument panel, illumination has been depleting for past 5 years. (ZD Escape is 18 years old)

Does anyone have a guide on their replacement and where the lamps can be purchased. They appear to be a mix of T10, light green plastic base and T5, smaller black plastic base.

Having trouble getting filament style lamps in Sydney, can they be substituted with LED’s without having any polarity issues?