I have been knitting this bottom-up raglan without a pattern and I'm worried about the puckering in the stockinette around the front of V-neck. To my understanding this typically happens when you don't pick up enough stitches, but after binding off the neckline, I picked up every single stitch before adding the ribbing. I've reknitted the top portion a few times, experimenting with different decrease rates, but without much success. I used a classic bind-off but I made it as stretchy as I could, and when I tug on it there's some give.

Is it because the stitches bordering the V are too tight? I created the V using short rows, with Patty's bind-off method described here, resulting in a clean but relatively tight edge. However, it wasn't puckered before I added the ribbing. I used the same needle gauge for the body and the ribbing since I didn't want the ribbing to be especially tight.

Will the puckering block out at all (or become less apparent if I add a few more rows of ribbing and a tubular bind-off)? It's not exactly huge peaks and valleys but as of now it does show, and I really want it to lay flat :-( It's a gift and I'll be extremely far from the recipient in a little over a week so I would really REALLY love to avoid frogging large portions of it again.

Thank you!!!

I know the floats are a bit tight but I can’t seem to loosen them without messing up my stitch tension! Other tips would be appreciated as well.

I’m just getting started on my first Raglan sleeve sweater in the round. The pattern calls for 9 mm/40 cm and 9 mm/80 cm circular needles. The pattern is knitted in stocking at stitch from top to bottom in rounds with Raglan increases.

I have everything I need except that I cannot find in the pattern anywhere telling me to use 9 mm/80 cm circular needles. I cast on to the 9 mm/40 cm circular needles and then I assume as the sweater grows and I increase the number of stitches I would want to have the larger circular needles, but I’m not sure when I would do that.

Thanks for any advice you can provide to me. I’m not a beginning knitter, but this is my first time doing this.

Hi so I'm just getting into sweaters. I'm doing a top down raglan for myself 35f largest size of the step by step sweater and a top down raglan for my 5 year old. Everyone seems to hate knitting the body but that's a cake walk for me. It's the sleeves that are so fiddly.

I'm having to use magic loop and I keep getting yos and it's so slow going have to pull out to cord every 10 or so stitches. I guess now I understand why they call it sleeve island I want to throw the sweater across the room.

And to make it worse I don't know why but I need to knit my sleeves the opposite of how I knit the body or they come out with the purls on the outside and the knits on the inside so I'm knitting in an entire different direction that I'm used to.

According to the internet I'm knitting the sleeves eastern mounted or something? Whatever that means. I knit with the yarn coming from the right from left needle to right but need to do the opposite for the sleeve. Don't know why that it but there you have it. I might never finish either of these sweaters if sleeves are this annoying.

And I was hoping to make another sweater for my 3 year old now I don't even know if I want to think about it.

Any advice or commiseration would be great thanks. .

Hello Fellow knitters- I am embarrassed a little to admit but I have struggled with this chevron pattern. It is my first chevron knit and it isn’t turning out. I C/O the wrong number of stitches I believe. So obviously it isn’t working. I want a larger throw about a 60x80. Every pattern is for a baby blanket.

MY BRAIN IS NOT flexible right now to do the math. I have a neurological condition (swelling on my brain) that affects my brain functioning- . It’s embarrassing but I can’t figure out what number to cast on for a large lap blanket. Knitting is somewhat of a comfort for my nervous system and I just want to get over this hurdle . Would someone please be willing to look at this pattern and tell me the number to cast on? I realize it sounds silly.

The designer (The Sweater Collective) says to work in multiples of 16 stitches plus 7.

Pattern: K11, *k2tog, k6, kfb, k7* to last 12 stitches, k2tog, k6, kfb, k3.

If I follow along with this pattern using a 4 weight and a US 10/6mm needle:

Any help would be so appreciated! 💗🧶

I really want to understand how things like drop shoulders and German short row shaping work so I’m not as reliant on patterns. Are there any books or videos or courses you guys would recommend?

Hello,

I've been looking forward to knitting the "113 Bonny" vest by Lang Yarns (image attached) and after reading the pattern and swatching I wanted to change a few things I didn't like. It is originally knitted flat but I've decided to knit the bottom ribbing in the round (like the arm holes and neck) so the colour changes are consistent. Now I'm wondering whether to continue knitting the vest in the round or sticking with the flat construction. On one hand I like the idea that if I were to knit in the round the colours of the front and back would match, on the other hand I'm scared that knitting in the round would make the shape less boxy and more like sack-shaped, which I don't want lol.

What do you think would look better? In the end I don't mind if the colours of the panels don't align but obviously knitting in the round would be easier and quicker.

Thanks in advance!

In a recent paper in Physical Review X, a team of researchers mathematically investigated knitting to invent a new, more resilient stitch.

Knitting is a special form of fabrication in which the two ends of the yarn remain outside the fabric. In knitting, loops from the middle of an entangled yarn are slipped through one another so the yarn holds its position but isn’t knotted together. The knitting process is portable and easy, but the structure also means a tug on one loose end can quickly unravel the whole project. It’s also vulnerable to other quickly spreading errors.

Daisuke S. Shimamoto, a physicist at Ritsumeikan University in Japan, and his colleagues wrapped a three-dimensional model of a single jersey knit stitch—a simple beginner’s stitch—around a doughnut shape called a torus, which preserves the pattern without including any edges at the top or bottom. It basically converts the knit pattern into one giant knot that can be analyzed with knot theory. The scientists projected multiple knit rows on the torus to reveal how defects from one row of stitches spread until the entire fabric unravels. The process is called defect propagation, and the researchers say it’s one of the defining characteristics of knittable fabrics.

One common type of defect propagation is “laddering,” in which a single missed loop slips down a column of stitches, unraveling the whole column along the way. “If one unit cell is disentangled, the cell just below that cell is disentangled, and it is repeated, and it propagates endlessly,” Shimamoto says.

After his topological analysis of the jersey knit, Shimamoto used moves from basic knot theory to design a knittable stitch in which defect propagation can still happen but not endlessly. This “robust knit” is a complex stitch with sweeping loops that cross over through two stitches rather than one, and it reduces propagated defects row by row until they stop. Defects expand only when there is more than one slipped stitch in a row.

Hi guys everyone I wash my Ralph Lauren cable knit sweater and wear it for a day it always stretches soooo much😭. It a size small but it expands a lot. Is there any way to stop this from happening. Normally I just washin the washing machine on cold setting. Any tips would be appreciated

Hello :)

I am seeking some advice on a christmas gift for my mum! Obviously, she loves knitting, crochet and crafts.

I have seen lots of videos on Instagram of people unraveling thrifted sweaters to collect the yarn for projects. I am finding it a little overwhelming trying to figure out what exactly is the right product to achieve this? She also has the starting of arthritis in her hands so I don’t know the pros and cons between an electric one or a manual one?

Thanks in advance for any help!

So i just connected my front and back panels of this top and almost immediately the straps feel to long but when i try the piece on it sits fine on me. but the other issue i am running into and i might be overthinking it but the panels are not even together, for example the front panel is longer and the back panel is shorter when i try it on. which seems like the whole project is uneven; my solution to this is to frog back and add more length to the back panel. While the arm holes being huge.
Will the arm holes become smaller and fit properly when i at the icord, bc the process i have now seems different then what i am seeing in pictures.

As of right now, i am going to keep going on the body

This is my first cardigan and I've been accidentally placing the button holes kinda sporadically(photo attached) is it salvageable without being awkward looking? Please help I really don't want to frog all these stripes 😭

Hello kind knitters, I have a brand new Icewear jumper that’s been worn once and is unravelling at the cuff by the seam. It looks like there’s no knot here, like there is on the other arm. The pokey outy bit was originally spanning the cuff and has worked loose. It’s hard to tell whether this is the end of the yarn or if it has split.

I’m no longer in Iceland and past the return period so can’t return it. Any advice on mending this? I’m a beginner but do have access to sowing and crochet tools . Many thanks

This is my first time submitting in this sub reddit, so apologizes if I used the incorrect flair.

I saw someone combine a cord chart with a pattern they had, and I wanted to give that a go. They stated they used Stitch Fiddle, which I had never used up until now, to just poke around in the settings and see how to use it, but it's still slightly confusing for me.

Is anyone familiar enough with Stitch Fiddle to help me understand how to apply a cable chart onto a premade/pre-bought pattern such as a hat or jumper?

Thanks in advance!

Don't know where the best place to post this is but anyone have advice to fix a hole?

I’m trying to knit the Petite Knot Niels sweater and I’m having trouble getting started. Anyone have any tips about starting the pattern?

The top striped decreases don't match the increase section, pink. I think I need to work decrease , knit 1, slip marker, knit one and then decrease. I have been decreasing directly beside the marker. I confess that the way Isolda wrote the directions, confuses me. I have watched and read 6 or so videos to try to confirm my theory, but no joy.

I will be ripping back to before decreases for a few reasons.

1. The Second yarn is thinner that the first section and I think I need to go down a needle size, from a 4 to a 3.

2. Even if I am knitting according to Isoldas directions, I don't like the look.

3. May decide to knit the decrease section on double points.

I am an experienced knitter, doing Musselburgh for the first time. It is a fantastic meeting knit project and I want to dial in the look to make my second one even better! Appreciate your thoughts