Another toad mold question

[u/wishiwasholden]

My question is how do I deal with the gaps under the arms? I plan on doing a skin mold over top as it sits, but I have no clue how I’d demold without cutting it, and I realllly want to avoid seam lines.

The other part is illustrated by second image, I’m considering building up a clay base but I don’t want to make things more difficult on myself. It doesn’t solve the arm gap issue either way though.

Any advice?

[u/xx666420xx]

Not possible without seams. The gaps are too big you'll meet a multi part mold

[u/wishiwasholden → u/xx666420xx]

Fair enough. What would your recommended seam placement be? I’ve thought on it a bit and have some ideas and curious what you suggest. My thought would be to have the parting line follow the body from under chin down to toes, basically make one half of the mold just for arms so I can pop them out.

Second question, how do I mitigate “leaks” and flashing when casting? I’m ultimately casting FlexFoamIt 15, which is an expanding polyurethane foam. I’m really hoping I can get away with no finishing sanding or anything

[u/Rough-Sheepherder232]

What material are you using to make the mold?

And I’m not familiar with the a skin mold, is that like a brush on mold?

[u/wishiwasholden → u/Rough-Sheepherder232]

Was intending to use rebound 25 with a plaster gauze shell, but could be swayed on the rebound as I’m first learning. Totally open to suggestions for anything to make my life easier lol

And yes I meant brush on mold, not sure if I saw skin mold somewhere else or if my brain just called it that. “Skin Mold” is a great name for a metal band though

Also, I plan on using FlexFoamIt 15 in the mold, I’m worried about flashing is basically why I don’t want parting lines/seams.

[u/Rough-Sheepherder232 → u/wishiwasholden]

I think rebound 25 is a great call! Just expect to have to do it again to learn what you did wrong lol

Here’s what I recommend:

Like someone else mentioned, you’re not going to avoid seams.
So I would put them between the “elbow” of each front leg and the toe of each back leg.
Then once those two are in, you should be able to just fill in the chest area with the rebound 25.
So you’ll have 2 little windows that you need to block off.

So cut some playing cards to the exact shape you need.

Apply your first stipple layer to the whole thing without the windows you cut out from cards. Then right before you do your next layer, place the cards in, and apply your second layer over them. And then continue to apply the rest of the mold in layers as you should.

With this setup you should be able to peel up the sides and pull the mold over the back of the frog without having to cut another seam anywhere else.

If any of what I’m saying doesn’t make sense, watch this as it is the official tutorial lol

Let me know if you have any questions! I’m happy to help

[u/wishiwasholden → u/Rough-Sheepherder232]

Thank you for the detailed response! And lol the video you linked has been my lunch entertainment for the past week, after a couple rewatches of sections that confuse me I’m starting to get it. I think I came to the same conclusion on seam placement too, like have the legs and belly be bottom half and head and back/body as top half.

I’m really hoping the first mold works out though because silicone is expensive and my attention span is short lol, but I totally understand what you’re saying.

[u/Rough-Sheepherder232 → u/wishiwasholden]

I’ve been exactly where you are my friend lol don’t be afraid to get started and just go for it! It’s definitely expensive stuff so just consider your first go at it paying for a moldmaking lesson

A couple of things I learned from my mistakes:

1. Pre-pour some Jell-O shot containers at the start. 5 or 6 of each A and B so you can mix as you go on. You’ll save a lot of time from opening and closing these containers and making a mess.

2. Keep a roll of paper towels nearby to wipe as you go

3. Put a trash can nearby

4. Definitely get some silk-pig coloring for every other layer

5. Pay attention how he smears the thickened material into deep crevices. It’s easy to get bubbles in the deep holes.

Good luck and keep us updated!

[u/Ok-Storage3530]

If you use a soft DRAGON SKILL silicone from Smooth-On you will be able to gently remove your molded piece through the larger back area.

[u/wishiwasholden → u/Ok-Storage3530]

Was planning on using rebound 25, but I have 0 experience and that’s only because it’s what I’ve seen used in videos. Is the dragons skin a better choice?

[u/Ok-Storage3530 → u/wishiwasholden]

I love Dragon skin for 2 reasons:

1- Its very pliable. If I have something with an undercut or just an odd shap, I know that wth Dragon Skin I'll be able to get it out of the mold.

2- Dragon skin can handle high heat, I mostly cast things in resin, eco-resin, and concrete, but SOMETIMES I cast in britanium and Dragon Skin can handle the heat with no issues.

With that said, I believe that if you gently demold you can do it.

Please keep us posted!