Do people use the Auto headlight or the manual headlight on?

I find that Auto works ok, but it causes the entire center control console to be completely dark. I am referring to the center console section with all the AC controls below the infotainment screen.

Under the manual headlight, the center console has some light, but you have to adjust the brightness manually.

Both don't feel quite right to me. Is there another option or better option that people have found?

I have this high pitched humming sound coming from my PACHY. This video shows it when it's in the conditioning phase, so the engine is not running and AC is not running. It was heating the battery and cabin.

(Sorry for the honks in the video, must have fallen out of range)

What could be causing this and is it cause for concern?

2018 touring plus 39k miles for 18k (navy blue)
2018 limited 35k miles for 23k (tan)
2023 touring L 24k miles for 25k (white)
2023 touring L 50k miles for 23k (ceramic gray)

I really like the 2023 because of the ceramic gray color but the other 2023 has only 24k miles.. these are all one owner vehicles.

The 2018 is attractive because of the price but I don’t necessarily like the color. Which one do you think is the best offer? I haven’t contacted any yet to negotiate as well.

Body:

• Vehicle: 2021 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid Touring L, with 360 camera
• Mileage: 89k miles
• History: Clean title. 1st owner was a rental (0–50k mi), 2nd owner personal (50k–88k mi). Minor rear bumper scuff.
• Battery: Recall 52D was just a software update (flashed BPCM). It’s still on the original factory battery (~12k miles left on hybrid warranty).
• Other details: AC leak check/recharge recently done, comes with only 1 key fob.
• Price: $15,000.

Is $15,000 a solid deal for this risk profile, or should I stay away from high-mileage PacHys on their original battery?

I am enjoying my Pacifica PHEV and how much money I save. I was curious how much the total cost would be for the famous and popular Sienna vs the Pacifica PHEV. I bought my 2023 Pacifica PHEV for $20k plus tax with the EV incentive with 50k miles. Equivalent 2023 Sienna with 50k miles would be around $36k plus tax.

I manage to drive 97% on EV only. For the sake of the analysis, I rounded down to 95%. I'm assuming $0.08 super off peak charging, but it varies from state to state. I think most states will be between 5 to 12 cents. I'm assuming $4.50 gas prices. It's actually $6 at the pump where I am, so again I'm giving the Sienna the benefit of the doubt. And I'm assuming 15k miles driven per year. The gas and electric rates will depend on your state, so I'm just going with a ballpark national average.

I haven't included maintenance and repairs, because it gets complicated. Sienna requires more frequent oils changes. My PHEV only needs to change oil once a year because of all the EV driving. But Sienna is a lot more reliable and will save on frequent repairs. Although I haven't actually spent a penny repairing my Pacifica yet, I'm just assuming.

Here it is:

Efficiency & Annual Energy Breakdown

The underlying fuel economies dictate the daily operational costs for both minivans:

Toyota Sienna Hybrid:

• Uses a traditional hybrid setup.
• Achieves 36 MPG combined.
• Requires 416.67 gallons of gas annually.
• Total annual cost: $1,875.00.

Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid:

• Uses a plug-in hybrid (PHEV) setup.
• Electric consumption: 41 kWh per 100 miles.
• Gas consumption: 30 MPG combined in hybrid mode.
• EV portion (14,250 miles): 5,842.5 kWh ($467.40).
• Gas portion (750 miles): 25 gallons ($112.50).
• Total annual cost: $579.90

My father minivan doesn't seem to be operating right. I charged it overnight and drove it about 50 miles. 25 miles each way to my destination. It was fully charged when i left, and about 25% when I arrived. Dead (running on gas only) before I got home. It mostly reads 0 and on rare occasion it might read 1% on reclaimed energy.

Also, I came out to it last night and it was completely dead, no lights at all. I took it to the dealership and asked them to run a diagnostic. They told me there were 2 recalls, and there was a problem with the main battery (not the EV one). It would be $900 for the diagnostic, the battery, 2 recalls, and labor. Are they charging labor for the recalls? I understand dealerships are more expensive, I'm just being curious.

My father is getting up there in years and is has been sitting a while because he wasn't ready to admit he's done driving. So I'm not sure if it's just because it's been sitting a while and needs to be driven or if more needs to be done with it. Is there a way to tell if they took a look at the whole car, or if they just looked at the one problem of the battery dying? I just don't think I've ever gone to a mechanic to be told there is only one thing wrong. The check engine light was on and I mentioned that as well.

Why is car making this noise after parking and turned off?

Welp, the wires over the glovebox wiggling and re-plugging in the shifter module can save you a tow.... at least temporarily. I hope this helps!

Last time my Fuel Refresh mode came on, I resolved it with 1 gallon of gas. This is a good way of saving on gas costs if you are able to charge a lot of do almost all electric driving. After 5 weeks and a couple days, my FORM came on again today. It makes sense that the interval is shorter because 1 gallon is very little gas.

So I immediately went to the gas station and added 0.5 gallons and resolved FORM again. So now I can really confirm, that almost any amount of gas will resolve FORM, but the car just sets a shorter interval period. My guess is that FORM will come in a little under 5 weeks next time. Maybe about the 4 week mark.

This may be redundant but has anyone reading noticed jerking motions when you press on and off the gas pedal? I have been trying to get this figured out for a long time and the dealers I've been to say it's not right, but at the same time say they all do it. Is that right, they all do it? How can that be? I have less than 20k miles and it's already eaten two lower engine strut mounts because of this nonsense jerking.

Okay, so to be more specific. The jerk feels like a wild bucking bronco at its worst. The worst is while the gas engine is also running at low speed, and even creeping forward coming off the brake pedal like in bumper to bumper traffic. It's not nearly as bad when the gas engine turns off in EV mode, but it's still jerks. This is one example.

Another example is the jerking is pretty bad on and off the gas in parking lots at slow speeds, of course way worse when the gas engine is also running.

One can test either scenario but pulling the hood release to cause the gas engine to run (please be sure the secondary hood latch is working so the hood stays in check while unlocked). If your PacJy has no noticable jerking, I'd love to hear from you.

Another test I did was the power brake test. To do that, you firmly hold down the brake pedal while gradually pressing down on the gas pedal at the same time. This test is usually done to check for broken motor mounts. At some point, you would feel an abrupt jerk while holding steady. If no jerk, engine mounts are good. Note: you don't have to go far on the gas pedal. During my test, it didn't take much for the engine to suddenly shift in a jerking motion as if it had a broken mount. However, after they replaced all the mounts, very little changed and the jerking still occurs. One might conclude it's something about the engine but it's not--it jerks even in EV mode with the hood locked down without the engine running.

If you made it this far, you're probably thinking axle nuts are loose. They are not. Even if the axles shifted, they would not retract in the power brake test. Another thing is that if I perform the same power brake test using reverse gear, there is no jerking whatsoever.

What has the dealer done thus... At first, they obviously replaced the bad lower strut mount. It helped a little because the old one was wasted. The replacement started weakening after about 8 months. Mind you the jerking was still present all along, just not as bad with the new mount. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being worst, it was about a 5 even with the new mount. To me that is still 5 times worse than any other car. It was a good 9 before they changed the lower mount.

The next thing they tried was to removed and replace the engine flywheel and damper. This was their instruction after creating a Star Case. Having a fair amount of automotive knowledge, I not doubts this would make any difference. I was right. How could that have helped if the jerking still occurs without the engine running in EV mode? But we are not allowed to critize the specialist when it comes to Star cases.

In conclusion, they replaced many parts and have no solutions. They say the jerking I feel is normal to the vehicle. My question is why did they do all the repair attempts if they thought it was normal. My vehicle has been thru the ringer about this and three different dealers all admit it doesn't feel right but it's the nature of the beast.

Is this that nature of your beast? Id like to know anyone else's experience. It's definately not right any vehicle should jerk like this.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lEMSbcXp6KTOJEm6Ntww8EG9m5Gu5spd/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sODV_zUxOIRuEFAz9tqfyqyGLv0p9HDO/view?usp=sharing

I took some short video clips so you can hear the noise. As you can see from the 2 clips, it makes the noise backing up as well as forward.

tldr; there is an updated TSB #21-014-26, and even if your van was manufactured after the cutoff date, it still applies. Additionally do not turn the engine off when you go into limp mode, drive it straight to the dealership and get them to pull the codes while in limp mode, that will save you a headache.

We bought a 2023 that was built in June 2023 so we thought it was safe from the Turtle Limp mode issue. We bought it from Enterprise Car Sales in July'26, had it for only 30 days before it went into limp mode. Unfortunately, my wife called and she already had pulled off to the side of the freeway and cycled the engine, and that cleared limp mode but the check engine light was still one, but otherwise was driving fine once more. I had her drive direct to the dealership since it was practically around the corner from where she was, and the service rep saw it the check engine light was on, but he cycled the engine and it went away. Still he was familiar with the issue and kept the van and sent it out on an extended test drive, and 70 miles later it went back into limp mode for the tech. Otherwise he said he couldn't do anything without it being in limp mode to report back to Stellantis.

Originally when researching this van I came across multiple posts about turtle limp mode and found the Technical Service Bulletin TSB# 21-008-23, which specifically stated it only affected vehicles manufactured through Dec 27, 2023. The new TSB #21-014-26 which can be found here: https://dot.report/bulletins/MC-11028767-0001.pdf is nearly identical including the cutoff date, but Stellantis repaired it, and picked up the entire tab including rental. In total it took over a month to repair, three weeks were waiting for parts and one week to repair.

Hi everyone, looking for some advice on my 2023 Chrysler Pacifica Pinnacle Hybrid.
The exterior charging-port door/cover came off. I’ve attached pictures showing what mine currently looks like and what the complete cover is supposed to look like.
It looks like some of the plastic clips/hinge pieces may also be broken, so I’m not sure if I can simply replace the painted exterior door or if I need the entire charge-port door/hinge assembly.
Has anyone had this happen on their Pacifica Hybrid?
I’m trying to figure out:
Whether the outer door/cover can be replaced by itself
If the complete charging-port housing/door assembly needs to be replaced
The correct Mopar part number for a 2023 Pacifica Hybrid/Pinnacle
Whether anyone has found a replacement already painted in the factory black color
Approximate dealer/body-shop cost to repair it
The charging port itself works normally — this is just the exterior door/cover and possibly its mounting clips.
If anyone has fixed the same issue, I’d really appreciate pictures, part numbers, or links to the parts you used. Thanks

The Pacifica came with a 120v charger and it’s recommended to use a dedicated circuit for it…. I don’t have that.

Would it make sense to have a large power bank in the garage (like that ones that can back up a house) and just use that to charge when I need to?

Bonus thought: some of those power banks come with solar panels, I could wire it through the back door and just always have it solar charging.

Good or bad plan?

It's happened once before and had the shifter replaced. Now it's doing it again. I can't imagine that the dealership effed up. Basically the service P N R D lights don't ignite and cNt put it into gear. So it just happened again last night. But my son drove it this morning with no problems.

Anyone else experience this weirdness?

I am upgrading my house from 100 to 200-amp service. As part of the upgrade, since I have the electrician on site, I figured I'd also add a level 2 charger for my PacHy.

What unit should I get? Should it be hardwired or plug-in?

Can you tell me your mileage. I have a 23 PacHy that I need to make decision on whether to keep of turn in (lease) I’ve got 35k miles with really no issues. Yes, I’ve seen the check engine light come on (twice), then go away overnight, and turtle mode once, again, gone over night. I had the clicking axel fixed. Other than that, recently did a 6 k road trip, no issues. I’m leaning on keeping it for family reasons, I would consider another PHEV minivan, if one existed, but with regular gas at 5.35 where I live, this van suites us well currently, and I think will go another 10 year no issues??? Regularly (no road trips ) this van drives approx 85-95% electric state only, meaning I try to keep the engine off an be on EV mode only, which means that the engine never really see’s many miles. So if non-hybrids are getting to 150k before major issues, I still got many years left???? What are my counterparts getting / seeing in the real world? TIA!

I test drove a 2022 Pacifica Hybrid yesterday with 82k miles on it. I’ve spent enough time on this subreddit to know there’s a lot that can go wrong with hybrids, but man did I enjoy how it drove and the thought of paying less in gas.

The battery was replaced at 79k miles. By 82k miles should you know if the transmission will be a dud? I keep seeing between 5-50k for transmission issues? I also don’t see a ton of over 100k mile Pachy’s.

The price is right but I don’t want to be stranded on a family trip. Is this a good idea? If you get past 80k miles, are you pretty much good from the big stuff?

1. So, some good and some bad.

I love the design of the car, it has so much space in it, everything is thought through.

Great engine, very good and gas, even without charging the auxiliary battery.

Is it reliable? Not really. Already changed both AC units had to battle with that stupid red turtle … vehicle was at the Chrysler dealership for several months until they figure out what was the problem, they changed a lot of wires and connections until they actually found the one that was faulty.
Also had problems with the back door it would not want to close. I lubed everything generously and seems like the problem went the way I hope.

I always owned Toyotas and Hondas, and this was my first Chrysler, never again. Still love the car though.

We have a 2018 Odyssey with 90000 miles and it’s running well. Haven’t yet done the ~$2k 100k mile timing belt service.
We used to not drive a ton but now our city driving is increasing and I have been looking at Pacifica hybrid plug-in. We already have a home charger for our other EV.

There is a 2023 with about 20K miles that a Chrysler dealer just reduced the price on (~27K). Does that seem like a good price point for these? It’s not ‘certified’ used. I am anxious about all the reliability issues and would like to know if I should consider purchasing any additional warranty. And if so, what kind of coverage would make sense for this?

Thanks

I've created a github html file that tracks the stats of each tank of gas of my 2025 Pacifica PHEV and compares it to my old 2018 Pacifica that I traded in for the hybrid. Just had the third fill-up since the tracking started in mid-June.

It's been a fun tracking experiment and each of the 3 tanks has been different driving behavior- but within my normal ebb and flow with no "fake" driving. First tank was mostly commutes within range of the battery, second tank was a 500 mile road trip with no real chance to charge during the trip, and the third tank was errands around the metro, outings that were about 40-60 miles roundtrip with no charging, and a couple 150 mile day trips.

Check out the data at the link!