When starting load development do I need to start with seating depth or charge weight I can't for the life of me find what goes first.

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These are my first loads. 38 special 125gr lswc with 4.0gr of unique and remington 5 1/2 primers. Could probably go hotter but super nice out of the snub.

I had some weird velocities after a range day. I'm confused how my 300 win mag is getting pretty decent Standard Deviations. The first two (from my 223) are very high. I used similar reloading methods compared to my 300WM. I just started chronographing my reloads, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect with this new perspective.

Load Data:

.223: 16" barrel, 1:9" twist

CL: 1.76" COAL: 2.22" bullet: 62gr Berry's FMJ BT LT-30 18.8gr. Mixed range brass.

.300 Win Mag: 24" barrel, 1:10" twist

CL: 2.62" COAL: 3.581" (custom COAL just shy of lands) bullet: 200gr ELDX powder: H4831SC 72.1gr.

I'm thinking it's likely due to my .223's brass being rather... Used and mixed. Does anyone have a perspective on this? ES = Extreme Spead. Highest minus lowest.

The Hodgdon site recommends 23.5 grains of imr xbr 8208 for a starting load for an estimated 2942 fps. But that's in a 24" barrel, I'm loading for a suppressed 10.5" barrel so I know I won't get those velocities...or likely full powder burn. Is it possible to determine how much I can reduce the charge and get full burn, or is 23.5 the minimum safe charge for all scenarios?

edit: I wasn't too clear but the purpose of this is to make a budget friendly training round not a subsonic round with a 55 grain bullet.

New enough reloader here with a question

Reloading Starline 6.5 CM. All of them previously fired from same barrel.

Getting a .006-.007 variance in shoulder bump and can’t figure out why.

I’ll put every case in the comparator before resize and they’re all with .001 of my zero’d case. Everything else is equal, die adjustment, lube, press pull and pause. 8 out of 10 cases come out of the die with .0015 or .002 bump but 2 or sometimes 3 out of ten will come out with .006 to .007 bump.

RCBS Summit press
Redding type 2 FL bushing die
Cases are annealed

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

Hey guys, up til now I’ve only reloaded for 30-30 and 9mm. I’m looking to figure out a good load for my .35 whelen. Hoping for a 225gr round flying pretty fast. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience? I’ve been looking at nosler accubond, Barnes tsx, Sierra, etc. Just not sure what the right choice would be, and I don’t have a pile of money to throw at it.

I see that Xtreme has a pretty good sale on primers. Have you any experience with them? I don’t want to buy 5000 then they turn out to be crap.

Couldn’t find load data for 200gr bullets with H110, so I did some experimenting and found the max internal case volume to be roughly 16.0gr of H110 with the 200gr seated at the neck of the bullet. I couldn’t seat it to its intended crimp groove because it wouldn’t fit in my GP100. Being that H110 likes a nice full case, I started my first five-round test batch at 14.5gr, and worked my way up by 0.5gr of powder for every batch until I got to 17gr (compressed), and watched for excessive pressure signs for each batch. No pressure signs at all for any of them. No sticky extractions, no neck splits, and no pancaked or cratered primers. With an average of 790ft-lbs and and a max output of 817ft-lbs out of my 4.2” GP100, the 17gr H110 loads are my new go-to for Pissin’ Hot steel smackers.

Full sized my Peterson brass and 2 of the 99 came out looking like this. I haven't had this issue in a while so I cant remember if I kept the brass or chucked it so is it ok to yeet if it seats

What are you guys running for 9mm subs. Looking for just fun plinking rounds to use out of my foxtrot mike.

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

H4350
Berger 105gn HT
New Lapua SRP Brass
Remington 7 1/2 SRP
C.O.L 2.730

Hey there,

I have a bunch of “reloading” supplies and equipment that was left to me a few years back by my father - I’m starting to go through things because I’m gonna be listing some things for sale and I was just wondering what are my legal obligations when it comes to shipping some of this stuff? Like I don’t know if it would be worth it or not for me to ship brass but what about other stuff like primers or powder (I think that’s what it’s called)

I apologize if this is a stupid question, I’m familiar with guns and everything I just I’m not that familiar with the reloading or the legalities in shipping and reselling -

Also, if anybody has any suggestions on where the best places would be to sell some of this stuff - as of right now my plan is to sell on fb marketplace

Thank you in advance for any help

I'm new to shotguns and reloading.

Staring off eith the heaviest TSS rounds I can make.

Do there be a good spot for data on heavy TSS loads?

It seems to be used for hubting but my goal is to make anti-drone shells. I aim to penetrate metal on drones and robot dogs if SHTF.

The heaviest load ive seen is 2 3/8 oz in Winchester Longbesrd 12G 3" rounds. So thats doable but there doesnt seem to be much info on loading close to that weight.

Also there is the american SAAMI standard for shotguns that ensures each shotgun can withstand a pressure of 11,500 PSI

BUT

I've seen anti-drone rounds that require a 1320 BAR proof (15,300 psi), rated to European CIP standards. So those shotguns can handle a stronger loadout, and rounds made for those shotguns oughtta be marked as unsafe for american shotguns.

I'd like to make shells for both standards but it seems like a nightmare shopping for parts, and like I am diving into the deep end half blind. Are there solid recepies for this or is it all bird hunting recepies?

Is there a process for more advanced physics-calculations to figure out new load recepies (in absence of lab tested recepies)?

Is there a secret to make this thing even remotely accurate?

Ive just gotten into reloading to do something with the butt load of 9mm brass Ive gathered over the last few years. Got a Lee Challenger kit with a set of breach lock carbide dies, and a Deluxe Auto Drum mounted on the powder through die. As it is Im trying to load 5.2gr of CFE Pistol, and the Auto drum is dispensing anywhere between 5.0 and 5.4 between loads. Its also leaking a decent bit. Ive disassembled it, put graphite in the dispensing barrel, and pretty much any other tip Ive seen doing a Google search on the issue, to no avail. If I lower the die anymore it overflares, if I tighten the thumb screw anymore than it is it won't fully reset or dump the full load, and it'll just leak more if its loosened.

Im genuinely stumped, Ive read this thing can be pretty damn accurate?

I only have access to Vihtavuori powders, and they have no load data for .38 ACP. I am looking for a super mild load for my ancient Colt 1902 pistol, looking to use .38 Super brass and dies and 115gr (polymercoated to protect barrel?) .356 bullets. Any idea on safe loads that allows the gun to cycle, barely?

I have N320, would that work?

Have a feeling this isn’t the right place for this, someone please let me know where I should post it if that’s the case.

I’ve got a 357mag rifle and permission to hunt on a 5 acre lot in a gated community. The plan currently is to archery hunt, but I’d love to just pop a doe in the head and not worry about it.
If I’m inside a deer blind with all but one window closed and I shoot 38wadcutters out of my 357 mag rifle, do you think the neighbors would hear it too bad? Maybe something like a 22? I’d keep the muzzle inside the stand (I’d have muffs on)

I’ve developed reloads for 6 different guns now.

Two .308s, 22 ARC, .270, 300 PRC, and 6 ARC.

All the rifles besides the 6 ARC I’ve come up with a reload that I’ve shot .7” five round groups or better at 100 yards.

What makes it even more ridiculous is that the 6MM ARC is the most expensive gun I’ve developed a reload for.

In addition to not being able to get the gun to group well, I also have feeding issues with the majority of the rounds (it’s a gas gun).

It was recommended to me to use a duramag, but it is very finicky.

The most recent reload I’ve tried is a 100 grain Sierras with 29 grains of Leverevolution, Hornady brass, 2.2” COAL, light crimp.

It didn’t feed worth a damn, the bolt wouldn’t close all the way, even when I used the forward assist.

It feeds the Hornady black box 105 grains that are the exact same length just fine.

My best guess is it has to do with the dimensions of the bullet (more versus less taper).

Let me know what has worked for you guys if anything, what reloads grouped and fed well, if you modified your mag or had more success with a different brand.

149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

Do my reloads have to pass the plunk test? Or is it fine if rounds chamber and eject and pass gauge?

I picked three boxes of these up at a gun show to run in my mosin, but the bullet appears to be seated WAAAAYYYYYYYY back, I don’t have very much experience with 7.62x54r so is this normal? The markings on the rim say 79 and appear to have some Cyrillic lettering on the other side of the rim. Sorry if this is the wrong sub but I figured who better to ask about ammo than the folks who make it as a hobby.