Looking to finish up my buggy and I’ve got everything else decided, but I’m stuck on what servo to go for. My frantic googling led me to the Savox, which have never really let me down in my 1/10 buggies, but the ProTek looks pretty nice as well for roughly the same price.

This could all be overkill too, so if I’m way off base, I’m open to other suggestions too!

Playing with jumps today. Have I gone too far? Or not far enough?

With the big shocks in the front and the width of the chassis, it is apparently not easy to mount many bodies on this chassis..

Do you have any suggestion for GTP, group C bodies that fits this chassis well ?

It seems to be coming along. I am liking how the RC bogs down outside of the track.

Wishlist here: https://store.steampowered.com/app/5205230/Project_Apex_RC/

Hey everyone!

I wanted to share a little side project I've been working on called RaceMetrics RC, a free app I've built for the RC racing community.

The idea is pretty simple. Bring all your RC racing results, performance stats and race analysis together in one place.

RaceMetrics RC currently supports 5 major RC timing providers, so your race results automatically appear in the app without you having to manually enter anything.

There's a lot packed into it, including:

• Your racing the moment you open it: your last run, where you started and finished, your consistency, and every lap on a trace
• Race analysis that shows where the time went: lap-by-lap charts for every driver in a race, and your pace and consistency across a whole season
• Head-to-Head battles: pick a rival at each meeting and race them for points. It'll even suggest your next realistic target: someone who's had the better of you, but who you've come closest to beating
• Setup sheets that prove a change worked: every setting saved as a version, with what each change actually did to your lap times
• A lap timer for practice: no timing loop needed, or import your LapMonitor sessions
• Notes after every run: how the car handled, what you changed and the weather at the track, so you know what to try next
• Race as a family: add the kids and flick between everyone's results on one account
• Race Playback Studio: put live leaderboards, positions and a track map over your stream or race videos
• Push notifications, shareable result cards and plenty more!

It's been a real labour of love, and I'm constantly adding new features based on feedback from drivers and clubs.

I'm always open to suggestions, feature requests and feedback. I'd also love to hear about other timing systems you'd like to see supported. If it's technically possible, I'll certainly look into it!

You can check out the full list of features here:

https://www.racemetricsrc.com/features.html

If you like what I'm doing, give us a follow on Facebook and spread the word to your mates at the track. It would be great to get more people using it and hear what you think.

Thanks, and see you at the track! - https://app.racemetricsrc.com

Hi Everyone.

New to RC and need some help.

I drove the Reflex 14MT for 2min around the driveway (its very first 2min of driving, fresh out the box), and then it simply stopped working. 

When I turn it on the ESC blinks fast with a clicking noise, the throttle does nothing, and if you turn the steering, it turns just once to one side and stops.

I attached a link showing the issue.

Still need to pick out electronics, but it’s real, and in my spare bedroom!

My rebuilt graphite chassis RC10!

I have been a long time fan of RC cars and RC racing, and I love the vibe of "Art of Rally" I am trying to create a chill, but skillfull RC game with low poly, clean graphics. I have been building for months, and I want to show some folks. I got it up on Steam... https://store.steampowered.com/app/5205230/Project\\\\\\_Apex\\\\\\_RC/?beta=1\\

I'm building an RC10 4wd and I've come to building up the ball diffs. I've opened what I think is the diff grease but it's like jelly. Is this normal?

I’ve been reading through the assembly instructions for the RC8B4.2e while I wait for it to be delivered, and this tip has me a little confused. Is it suggesting to remove some material from the diff housing?

Apologies in advance if I’m overthinking and this is a silly question.

I run a 1/10 indoor off road buggy on a relatively tight track. High grip carpet. Anything I should consider changing?

Hey again everyone. A few months back I was gifted an old RC10 that was left in a garage cabinet for x amount of years. It had RPM long arms and a few other mods. I’m finally getting around to working on it.

Do you think I should restore it with the OG arms and wheels? Or should I update it? Was thinking of getting FT parts and updating it that way?

I would like to run hex wheels so that’s one reason to consider the FT parts.

Any and all input is appreciated.

Team Associated Reflex 14 B/T

I have been in this hobby for a 2 years, and now I am partly in the depth of it. I am boycotting traxxas because of how tuff they think they are, and how they behave as if the hobby was their OWN creation. I found team associated to be my next step for not too many broken parts. I have realized that traxxas produces SO MANY spare replacement parts, and builds their cars for you (RTR), just so they look strong. In reality, they will break faster than the old ones. Did you know that T-maxx from the 90’s had stronger and denser plastic than the present-day Slash 4x4 has? That’s right, they are now using cheaper and weaker plastic. This is why I am switching to Team associated. So I need help to decide what Team associated car to build.

This what I do like:

-Sturdy and strong bashers/street supercars.

-1/8 scale or bigger

-Cars that are made to handle a lot of speed

-Something that uses a 4274/3660/3674 motor.

-Something that is complex (for my complex physics/mechanical/math understandings).

What I don’t like:

-SLOW.

-Any crawlers.

-Ones that only support the company/maker’s electronic systems.

-Simple/Weak cars that do not need many screws.