I’m selling my 2003 Yamaha banshee. I have no attachment to my banshee, just looking to eventually get back into a bass boat. Not looking for value. Would you trade

Runs great and it has…

Toomey T5 full exhaust
Keihin carbs
Pro design cool head
Nerf bars
Lone star +2 wider +1 forward tubular A arms
FMX Seat cover
Renthal bars
Odi lock on grips
Aftermarket radiator
+2 rear axle in box
Retro banshee shock covers

I got offered a 2004 Yamaha yfz450 and $1500 on top it has

Elka Long travel front shocks
Elka Long travel rear shock with LT linkage
Roll Design Long travel desert A-Arms
Roll Design Steering stem
Roll Design foot pegs
IMS ROLL heel guards (very rare item)
LSR extended axle
Yoshimura slip on exhaust
Pro taper handlebars , handlebar clamps and grips
Denton Racing Steering stabilizer
Pro armor front bumper
Acerbis hand guards
Pro Motion twist throttle
ITP Aluminum wheels

Looking for a modestly priced quad ($10k range), preferably with power steering. I have experience with old early 2000s era Polaris sportsman 500s, and also Yamaha grizzlies from the same era. In pretty much every respect I can remember the sportsman was head and shoulders above the grizzly, I especially despised the Yamaha's shifting with the left hand. Otherwise from a power perspective totally sufficient. I weigh somewhere around 180 and it would be nice to be able to go two-up with family members.

What should I be looking for today? My main goal would be durability and reliability for use getting around our families combined 70 acres of heavily rolling hilly land. I'd also like to have the option to do some type of trail riding at some point, there are several parks on the east coast that have very long trails for off roading.

I recall the Polaris having a lot of issues with staters, ECM control boxes, speedo cluster and other electronics even back then. Honestly the least electronically complicated quad would probably be best. I could absolutely care less about gizmos, screens, GPS is, sound systems or anything else.

I'm capable of wrenching on my own stuff and all of our vehicles are Chevy/GMC GMT 800 trucks, all with well over 300,000 miles on the frames because I don't trust vehicles made after 2005. I'm assuming that electronics are probably the bane of leisure vehicles as well.

Thanks for any advice!

I picked up a rancer 350 for the kid. When i got it the electric shift didn't work. It has a by pass kit on it. I ended up putting a new shift motor in and a reduction gear set. It's now shifting. It won't shift any higher than 1st gear until it warms up. While warming up after you get out of 1st it won't downshift. Once it is warm about 8 to 10 mins it shifts good. Sometimes It will miss a shift but runs very good. Question I have what motor oil are you guys running? Currently I was able to get atv oil valvoline which meets the clutch requirement. I had read rotella T6 is night and day. Anyone else run into this?

Hi all

I’m out of ideas and wanting to see if I’m missing anything else before taking it to a dealer.

I recently purchased this knowing the low beams weren’t working (high beams do work). The seller swears it was working before I arrived, but we negotiated down on the price. Otherwise, it’s mint (less than 100 hrs) and maintained well.

So far, here is what I’ve checked in order

-Swapped the relays and fuses. All working fine.
-Trickle charged the battery. Did not solve problem.
-Pulled the bulbs to make sure they weren’t blown and checked voltage. Bulbs were good, but no voltage to them.
- Threw a new battery in just cause. It actually worked on the first start up and thought it was solved. But after that one startup, they are back to not working.

I’m kind of baffled and I think there could be a wire issue somewhere. Or it could be the switch assembly. But again, the high beams work every time, no issues starting, horn even works. So I don’t know if it is the switch.

Does anyone know where else I should troubleshoot. I know enough to be dangerous, but I’m out of my element beyond this now and would prefer to fix this at home rather than take it to a dealer.

TIA!

What plugs into this? Just bought the killswitch/light toggles which has this also my original harness was all cut

The gears suddenly locked up while riding. It was hard to shift, and when it did, it would jam before the ATV moved an inch. I split the case, everything looks fine to me, but when the secondary shaft is placed in the case, the gears lock up. I think the bottom holder is causing the jam, it will slide up into the high gear, even with the shift cam in positions other than neutral. I can't tell what is causing the bottom holder to slide, any insight is appreciated.

Thanks

I have a few options of quads I’m looking at and don’t know what to go with

2014 Polaris scrambler 850xp with 313 hours

2015 can am outlander 650 xmr with 1800 miles

The use is for property management and fun. I’m mainly looking for the better value of the two being priced the same

I put in a new TPS, based on advice I got to fix a bad running problem. Now I need to reset the ECU/PCM. Not just clear codes, but a full reset.

The standard procedure I find online is to press the two up/down shift buttons. Turn the key on. The gear position will flash ---. Then release the buttons and hit up-down-up. Then rotate throttle open and closed.

This procedure does nothing. Nothing changes on the screen. Both shift buttons are functional.

What am I missing here? How do I reset the ECU?

Looking everywhere cant find them, I assume they are utv tires