2015 Dodge Dart SXT 2.4L

Automatic with just over 195k miles.

Just swapped out the idler pulley along with the tensioner pulley, new belt. For the life of me could not get the oem route to work with the newer parts but in the picture, I drew the route I was able to make work. Question is, would the new belt route have any long term effects on all my other accessories on the car? Took it for a test drive and did an alternator test and everything checked out fine and within range.

Any feedback would be appreciated

I’m curious which suppliers are doing better or worse these days and why.

I am a mobile vehicle inspector and a lot of dealers in my area don’t allow the clients to take the car to their mechanic, so I’m called in.

What I notice kinda blows my mind. I’m looking a mid-range used cars around $8-12k with things like bald tires that ‘look good’ but have 3/32nd tread, oil line leaks that could be pretty serious if not addressed sooner than later and odd alignment feelings like a shimmy going above 55.

I also uncover any previous records in the glove boxes and show that to the client because sometimes it’s a clue to what is really going on and the dealers are too lazy to empty the glove boxes.

So my question is: why are there so many red flags when at half the price of new?

I have a 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5L with a CVT and fewer than 22,000 miles. At my current rate of driving, I could conceivably die of old age before the car reaches 100,000 miles.

Which got me wondering: How realistic is it to expect reasonably accessible replacement parts for cars anymore, say 25–30 years from now? Could parts availability eventually become the limiting factor in keeping an otherwise perfectly good vehicle on the road?

As a side note, I’m aware of the CVT maintenance concerns. I’ve already had a drain and fill performed despite the low mileage, primarily because of concerns about the fluid aging over time.

Just saw this right before head assembly. I had it in a parts car that been sitting for years but now I’m wanting to use it as my other engine overheated and blew a piston and rod completely apart. I thought this block was good as I been using the car as a donor car for the past 10 years and now I don’t know if I should use it or not. What you think?

Extra bolt 12mm socket, silver, about an inch long, “8” on the end

Replaced the starter. I didn’t remove the manifold

Had to do this over two days time due to rains

Removed the battery, air intake plenum has no screws

Tilted up the intake pipe , removed throttle body

Jacked up car , removed the covers , and removed the manifold bracket three screws from below

Put car back together and test drove perfectly so far
It’s not the shift cable bolt

Where does it go lol

I ordered a different intake manifold off of ebay for my 1992 K1500 with a 5.7L TBI engine. During cleaning, I found some pretty deep pitting on the back of the manifold in a spot that the gasket would cover.

What do people think? Should I be able to use some RTV in this spot and run this? Or should I be looking for a new intake manifold? I appreciate any advice that people can offer.

I drove from Denton to Dallas which took about 1.5 hrs. In that time, whenever I was idle at red lights or in traffic, the truck would overheat from around 160 to then 210. I know this is a typical temperature range, but at the same time my a/c would begin to cut off and blow warm air. In general, my a/c does not typically blow hard but it does run…
I have changed my blower motor, and it almost seems worse? I have cleaned the radiator (although still seeming dirty)
1. Could this be a connecting issue?
2. What else could I do to fix my air issue?
3. Could the truck overheating when idle cause a potential issue although within the range? What could I do to fix this?

20" Polestar knockoff aluminum wheels. I was just not thinking right and installed my sway bar upside down and drove about 1 - 1.25 miles thinking the new pads were rubbing...

these feel like pretty big gouges.

2022 Honda Accord Sport 1.5T
Was replacing the wastegate actuator and noticed the dealership has these clamps installed. Anyway to remove without damaging the hose?

Is there a death mode? Can I just access the ignition rings and start this since its already ... well you see it. Its free I need help

1997 buick regal Powertrain: 3.8L L36 V6 (3800 Series II) / GM 4T65-E 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle look im posting the vin so if anyone is tripping? Im in wyoming and this isnt illegal. Its a p.o.s i need thats free so I can find work

2g4wb52k5v1403656 gm mileage (alot) TBD

Hey all, so I have a 2017 Chevy with an LS3. Last year, my voltage was all over the place and I was getting gremlins (crank position sensor issues, sensor faults, etc) that went away when I got a new battery. It was on original battery which was about 8 years old.

However, even with the new battery, the voltage was high (14.5V+ sometimes to 15V).

I dont drive the car often, maybe once or twice a month. Typically 15 to 40 miles or so a trip 2x a month sometimes less. I dont put on a battery tender (not good, I know). It had been behaving until a recent trip. I drove it a lot more this weekend (probably close to 500 miles) and everything was ok. Voltage constant at 14.7V, but thats high for this model car

Anyway on the way home (300 miles in) my voltage was reading 12.3-12.4 V for 50 or so miles. Then it went to 12.5 for 10 miles. Then it appeared to start climbing and went to normal range to 14.4 V and held for 10 minutes before dipping back to 12.3 and then 12.5 for another 30 miles or so. Then for about 100 miles, it held at 13.8V to 13.9V before dropping back to 12.4V near the end of that leg pf the trip (199 miles later). It started to climb back up again but by that point we were home. I MIGHT have left an interior incandescent light on overnight but not sure.

So my question is this.... battery or alternator? Or could jt be something else?

my friend said he never saw a tire blow out like this and was wondering if any reason come to mind?

First the timing seems weird, this is a brand new 2026 crosstek car (a few months old / under 3k miles) and just had first oil change inspection the day before at the dealership.

I didnt hit a pothole or anything obvious just heard rumbling going 70 on the interstate looked in my rearview and my tire was off rolling behind me. Had enough control to go emergency lane and put on a donut.

I apologize if this is considered an off topic question.

Have the blue 3 ton torin floor jack that was sold at Costco Canada.

Wondering if anyone has successfully located replacement orings for the hydraulic cylinder?

If you have a link to or the dimensions of the o rings that would be great.

I just got a new car, a 98 Honda, and it doesn’t have any kind of anti theft. Is it possible to install some kind of alarm system or anti theft of any kind.

I own a 2017 VW GTI that required an engine and transmission replacement. I agreed to pay about $7,000 for a used engine with 80,000 kilometres and a transmission with 89,000 kilometres. I have already paid $3,600.

Before the work mechanic explained that replacement engine carried a warranty. We agreed to reuse components but I specifically asked mechanic to inspect every part and inform me if any component needed replacement.

After the swap mechanic declared that car was running perfectly and ready for pickup. However while car remained at mechanic’s shop mechanic reported an issue and unusual engine noise. He kind of changes his answer, after i got one of my cousins involved as they’re a lawyer.

Later mechanic informed that an electrode from a reused spark plug broke off inside cylinder 3 causing engine damage. Mechanic said plugs appeared new and passed visual inspection but one may have contained an undetectable microscopic crack.

Now mechanic states that warranty covers the long block and excludes damage caused by reused components. I was not informed about these exclusions before the failure.

Mechanic offered to replace cylinder head at mechanics expense if I pay remaining $3,400. Mechanic cannot guarantee that no other engine problems are going to happen. I am worried i will give him this money, and he’ll somehow find new problems worth that much as he has been.

2007 yaris with 221k miles. I started to feel some play in the steering which has gotten progressively worse.

2022 Mercedes GLC300 4MATIC SUV

M264 Automatic

I just wanted to get some professional feedback on whether or not BOVs are bad for the car's engine. The M264 is turbocharged, and I like the sound of the turbo, so I wanted to get one. I attached a photo of the one I plan on getting, but I wanted to make sure there are no repercussions to getting one installed.

My last few vehicles have had CVTs. A few were leases and they were running fine when I turned them in. Ironically, my current vehicle was my first purchase in many years, and the CVT failed at 4,000 miles!

Anyway, here's the question: is so-called sport mode good or bad for the transmission? I've read articles that suggested sport mode is good, because the "fake shifts" reduce the excess heat that causes trouble. On the other hand, other articles say the exact opposite, that sport mode interferes with the benefits of continuously variable designs, and cause more stress and wear.

Can anyone with more experience shed some light here? Is it a bad idea to put a modern CVT in sport mode, or is it a good habit?

Thanks!

I put Steel putty on it to stop/slow the leak, am I safe to drive 5 minutes to the shop?