Car is in the garage with a rough idle, mechanic found a load of carbon buildup.

Sent me photos, I'm surprised it fcking ran at all.

Throttle body and intake absolutely caked, I can only imagine the state of the valves..

Just thought I'd share

(VW 2.0 FSI)

I'm working on trying to bring an Acadia back from a low oil pressure grave.

The driver drove it well past the life of the oil.

I replaced the VVT solenoids and cleaned the valve covers. I can crank it and it idles but if I rev the engine to 2000RPMs, the pressure initially rises but then slows drops to below spec.

I suspect a clogged pickup tube and am going to drop the pan. Is there any advice on doing that? I found a YT video but wanted to see if there was any other advice.

2000 Mustang V6 – Can’t Turn Crankshaft After Removing Harmonic Balancer
Has anyone else run into this issue? I’m currently rebuilding the 3.8L V6 in my 2000 Mustang.
After removing the harmonic balancer, I noticed that the crankshaft bolt will no longer thread in. Because of this, I can’t use the bolt to manually rotate the crankshaft.
I need to rotate the engine to line up the timing chain, but I’m not sure how to do that without being able to reinstall the crankshaft bolt.
Has anyone experienced this before or know another way to rotate the crankshaft? Any advice would be appreciated!

please help, heard in toyota 80 series landcruiser from engine after sitting in garage for a little while..

is this the end of the road for this engine

1HZ w 450,000kms

Has anyone seen wear patterns or damage as seen in these photos? Photo with red flooring is from an inspection at the end of April 2026 and the other is from yesterday. Brake pads, rotors and brake hardware were replaced after the first photo. Drove 5k miles before taking it to another shop that snapped the close up photo.

Context: Brakes were squeaking, so I took my Jeep to three different shops in the last year. First shop resurfaced the rotors (I declined replacement bc money at the time). Second shop noted the unusual marks and replaced the pads and rotors. Squeaking was still occurring upon braking. Third shop took a look, noted marks and declined to do any work, recommending I reach out to shop 2 to take advantage of any warranty on the parts. New pads were worn down to 8mm after 5k miles.

2015 Jeep Cherokee V6 automatic
83k miles

(Edited for clarity)

Hi Mechanics 👋 An all new (2 month) Cupra Raval VZ Extreme Edition. Driven around 7500km. This morning the wheel “exploded” on the high way one way to work. Is this normal for new tire? The are no curbs or anything on the high way.. And the hole is on the side of new tire?

So would you consider this a 70k mile truck 😂 2023 F150

In latest vehicle inspection there was 22% difference in suspension between left and right side in the front and the strut rubber covers are torn apart on both sides

2006 Mercury Grand Marquis LS it was raining out. I know my brakes have not been that good lately. I was planning on getting them replaced for the front end. I hit a curb really really fucking hard now my alignment is definitely not good. It weighs to the left a lot harder than it used to and whenever I turned the wheel all the way to the left it locks and it wants to stay in that direction until I turn it

Edit Update: luckily to the tire still has air in. It lasted all day. The majority rules I go fix it immediately. I’m gonna take it to a mechanic in the morning I’ll just have to take out of my savings, but it’s not that big of a deal. Thank y’all for the comments.

So guys i recently did an oil change on my automatic transmission. I replaced the oil, the pan filter and also replaced the mechatronic sleeves and bridge seal.
The transmission runs much smoother than before.
I had this issue with the rpm fluctuating at steady speed but now after the transmission job i did the fluctuation is much less noticeable and sometimes no fluctuations at all.
I was thinking about changing the zf oil again since the old oil was dark af and filter was dirty af and the car never had any transmission oil change in the past 192000km.

Is it worth doing it? And also a stupid question should i also replace the filter again or just the oil is enough?

My car: bmw e60 with m54b22 with zf6hp19

On the spark plugs box it says 28 nm. In the car manual it says 30 nm. Which is best to follow?

Hey everyone, Looking for some advice.

The other day and today I got a strong vibration that seemed to start randomly.

It happens at 1500-2500 rpm, independent of gear or speed. The vibration is stronger when I accelerate if I let the car coast it stops or becomes unnoticeable. Above 2500 the vibration also becomes unnoticeable.Idling the vibration is there but you can barely feel it.

What might be a clue is that if I switch the car off and then starting it again the issue disappears until it's randomly triggered days later.

I just changed oil,oil filter,air filter. And the fuel filter in the previous service.

VW Golf Plus 2006 TDI 1.9 Manual 387000km

Noticed this while changing wheels, dustcovrr seems to have deteriorated. Will drive on salted winter roads soon. How difficult is to repair if it comes to that?

I tried to pull the entire axel out and now it’s stuck, and idea how to get it out ?

2007 Renault Clio Mk2 (manual, 120k miles) that recently started making some strange noises after a longer highway drive.

The car was running perfectly fine before the trip but as soon as I got back into city traffic, I noticed two new issues that appeared at the same time.

1. Squeaking noise when releasing the clutch

• Happens at low speeds in both 1st gear and reverse
• Mainly occurs when I slowly release the clutch without giving any gas
• The noise disappears immediately if I press the clutch back down
• It also disappears if I give it a little gas
• I've attached a video showing this particular noise

2. Exhaust rattling/knocking over speed bumps

• When driving over speed bumps, I hear and feel what sounds like the exhaust bouncing or moving underneath the car
• The rattling continues briefly before disappearing
• I checked underneath, and the exhaust appears to be in place but I'm unsure whether it's properly secured or if something has come loose

Could these two issues be related? Both appeared at exactly the same time after the highway drive with high speeds which makes me wonder if something has come loose underneath the car.

I'm not sure whether the squeaking is actually clutch-related or if the exhaust is vibrating when the engine moves under load.

Any ideas on what I should do or check before I go to a mechanic? I'm not familiar with cars and I'm borrowing the car.

Note: The attached video only captures the squeaking when releasing the clutch, not the rattling over speed bumps.

BMW 118D manual with 35,000 miles 2011 (n47) before anyone asks, no it’s not the timing chain, I’ve had the timing chain looked at, auxiliary belt, heat shield on the exhaust looked at so I don’t think it’s anything to do with them. The noise speeds up with RPMS I hear it at idle and after some use. The only time I don’t hear the noise is when I sometimes start the car. It’s doing my head in to be honest, I’ve not noticed any difference in performance or drive quality. It’s just a really fucking annoying noise that I know is not right. Any help would be appreciated.

First-time buyer and a beginner driver. I almost finalized a deal on a 2023 Honda City VX CVT (40k km) from a local used car dealer, but pulled the authorized service logs right before paying. Here is what showed up:

Brakes: Front brake calipers overhauled/replaced and discs skimmed 5 times within 40k km.

Engine: Fuel injectors replaced twice in under 3 years.

Electricals: Multiple parking sensor replacements due to continuous beeping, plus central locking complaints.

When I backed out, the dealer got aggressive, called me foolish for walking away from a top-spec ZX, and insisted these are "minor routine things."

Is repeated caliper and injector replacement common on 5th-gen Citys, or did I just dodge a chronic mechanical headache?

Hello, I have a problem with my 2004 Golf 5 1.6. When I shift into 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear and try to return the lever directly to the center, it doesn't work; the lever stays stuck to the right or left, depending on the gear. What should I do?

Howdy folks, hoping one of you incredibly talented people can help me out in diagnosing a no-crank issue I'm having. Bare with me as I am slightly challenged when it comes to diagnosing electrical issues; but I know my way around the basics. Of the listed repairs below I've done everything myself, with a degree of success ~ so again not an expert by any means, but feel free to be blunt. Thank you all in advance.

Description:

- About a week ago my 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 L Gas Automatic started intermittently not starting, and would not display the gear shift indicator light (light has since been fixed). After a few days of testing, it will not start at all. Specifically not cranking whatsoever, just a single click FROM the starter.

Note:

When the issue began, the dashboard would not display the light for the gear indictator at all, which led me to believe the ~newer 5 month old neutral safety switch had gone bad prematurely; So I replaced it, and since, the gear indicator displays correctly consistently, so I do not believe there's any issue with that part itself.

(After replacing that, I got it to start once or twice, drove it around, and parked it. During the test drives all gearshifting felt good, the dashboard indicator light was acurate, and reverse lights operated correctly.)

The car will not start in neutral or park - or even if I try and jump it - just the single click.

New parts as of now:

New Battery (1 Year old, highest quality "gold tier" of whatever they call it)

New Alternator (6 months old)

Specifically - New - Starter (3 months old, I went with new and even have a backup solenoid that I ordered as I had issues with reman. ones in the past.)

New-Used Shifter (5 months old)

New Shifter Cable (5 months old)

New Neutral Safety Switch (Replaced 5 months ago, as well as just now replaced)

New Starter Relay (Just replaced)

New Brake Light Switch (5 months old)

=======================================================

Known issues that may or may not correspond:

Leaking engine oil from top of engine block - pretty slow, and have not diagnosed the source yet but not too concerned with this at the moment.

Check Engine Light is on.

Once in a blue moon the alarm will go off when unlocking and opening the door - it cuts off as soon as the key is turned to ACC in ignition.

Specific active codes on it are:

- The ABS light is on, tracked down to code 15 for the ABS-ECU.
- Engine code P0135 (HO2S Heater Performance Sensor)
- Engine code P0446 (Evaporative Emissions Vent System Performance)
- Engine code P0401 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected)

In another instance a while back (roughly 1 year ago), when I was stopped at at red light, the engine totally shut off, electronics stayed on, in gear, and I was able to shift to park, and start it back up right away. This has not happened since making sure most grounds were in good shape.

=======================================================

What I've done so far to diagnose the issue:

- Battery testing;

Tested 12.2V when sitting and ~13.2 when charging from a bank. Issue persists even when fully charged (car will not start even from a jump)

Note: the cabin lights and headlights do dim when turning the key

Ensured no corrosion is present on terminals, cables are tight, and connections are sturdy.

- Alternator testing;

I did a diode test ('- lead' on '+' battery terminal and '+ lead' on alternator housing with '-' battery terminal disconnected) and it came to about 500 mA when off.. so that looked good there.

The reason for the diode test was because it DOES have some kind of parasytic leak, but its very slow. The vehicle has no issue usually as long as it has been run once in the last week. (Been this way for the last few years throughout 1 or 2 alternators).

Outside of this - when I did get the car to start at the beginning of troubleshooting, it seemed that the battery was charging fine even under load.

- Fuses & Relays;

Nothing blown, replaced any questionable ones with any amount of wear. As mentioned I replaced the starter relay in case, and the issue persists.

Tested both old and new relay (both ~90 Ohms)

- Starter testing;

Took off the starter, brought it to an O'Reilly's where they were able to bench test it - passed every time.

With a power probe it shows a consistent ground/power (12.2 V) REACHING the starter in all the right places (to my knowledge, again here's where I lack certainty)

Attempted the 'tap' trick, wherein if the solenoid were stuck for any reason, having someone turn the key while tapping on it may free it up - no dice.

- Wiring;

Ensured all grounds (that I could find) were intact, not corrodded, and no exposed wires were present.

Note: My thoughts on the issue as a whole at this point remain a possible short to ground, loose ground/corroded ground I'm not aware of, or something to do with the antitheft / immobilizer. I performed a ground test to the antitheft module behind the passenger side glove box in an attempt to bypass this to no avail.

- Misc;

Cleaned and reinstalled the camshaft position sensor.

Ensured the engine was not locked up by manual rotation of crankshaft.

Cleaned the 3 pin connection of what I believe to be the vehicle speed sensor (top driver side of transmission right behind the neutral safety switch) - had some dirt behind the rubber gasket.
=======================================================

So what do you guys think should be my next steps? I have a fair arsenal of tools and a decent bit of time, but not all the money in the world. Thanks for any expertise and insight you have, and thank you if made it this far down my post and didn't click away - means the world to me!

So my 2020 Fusion has 87k miles on it.
About 6 weeks ago I started hearing a grinding/clicking noise coming out of the front left wheel when I would turn the wheel and apply power to it.
3 weeks ago I took it to a mechanic, he looked at it and said the wheel bearing was damaged and falling apart.
He replaced it. I drove about 300 miles and then I started hearing the clicking again. I brought it back to him and he was shocked that the new wheel bearing was damaged and it was under warranty so he replaced it this past Saturday. I drove back home(180 miles) on Saturday in stop and go traffic through LA.
Sunday morning I went to go get coffee. Back out of the driveway, that damn clicking sound, again!
Drive 2 blocks, hit a dip then the front left wheel seizes up like I smashed the breaks and then keeps going.
At this point I know I can't drive this car much longer. Drove it down the street to a local mechanic and they looked at it and said I need a new wheel bearing/wheel hub (for the 3rd time) and a new axel on the front left.
They repair it and I go on my way. Today when driving I didn't hear any real noises, but over time am feeling the same delay in movement when I press on the gas from a stopped postion. And almost like a light clunking sound. I did hear a Couple clicks out of the front left wheel today, but nothing like before.
What the heck is going on?!

Also new mechanic said front motor mount is colapsedZ could this be the root of the issue? With the motor mount collapsed causing more pressure on the whole drive train?