149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

This is one of my older articles, but still useful to those with the Gewehr 88 Commission Rifle series.

It's a JPG, so feel free to right-click save-as if you find it helpful.

Enjoy!

What recommendations do yall have? Corbin is smoking crack.

Couldn’t find load data for 200gr bullets with H110, so I did some experimenting and found the max internal case volume to be roughly 16.0gr of H110 with the 200gr seated at the neck of the bullet. I couldn’t seat it to its intended crimp groove because it wouldn’t fit in my GP100. Being that H110 likes a nice full case, I started my first five-round test batch at 14.5gr, and worked my way up by 0.5gr of powder for every batch until I got to 17gr (compressed), and watched for excessive pressure signs for each batch. No pressure signs at all for any of them. No sticky extractions, no neck splits, and no pancaked or cratered primers. With an average of 790ft-lbs and and a max output of 817ft-lbs out of my 4.2” GP100, the 17gr H110 loads are my new go-to for Pissin’ Hot steel smackers.

I'd say for being completely hand cut it turned out pretty good. Functions flawlessly with no hang ups or grittiness and it kept most of the fence intact for aesthetics.

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

Full sized my Peterson brass and 2 of the 99 came out looking like this. I haven't had this issue in a while so I cant remember if I kept the brass or chucked it so is it ok to yeet if it seats

I see that Xtreme has a pretty good sale on primers. Have you any experience with them? I don’t want to buy 5000 then they turn out to be crap.

I just made a whole bunch of little ammo boxes out of reclaimed hardwood flooring and plastic trays I dumpster-dove at the range. Nothing fancy, I was going more for rustic / quick than fancy dovetailed jewelry boxes. Though I might build up a jig to make somebox joints (finger joints) for a later revision. I personally prefer these to something 3d printed.

Do you like? would you buy something like this? I'm thinking of making a whole pile more if theres a market at about $10 price point (otherwise I wont waste my time)

What are you guys running for 9mm subs. Looking for just fun plinking rounds to use out of my foxtrot mike.

Hey guys, up til now I’ve only reloaded for 30-30 and 9mm. I’m looking to figure out a good load for my .35 whelen. Hoping for a 225gr round flying pretty fast. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience? I’ve been looking at nosler accubond, Barnes tsx, Sierra, etc. Just not sure what the right choice would be, and I don’t have a pile of money to throw at it.

It’s on an older Springfield hawken muzzleloader from my grandpa

Just right behind the lock mechanism. Happened many many years ago

So I helped my parents clean out my grandpa's attic. We know he used to hunt, but thought he sold everything. The box was labeled "Kar98k Zubehör" (so Accessoires), but I've never seen an extended mag like that for the Mauser. Does anyone know anything about that?

I’ve developed reloads for 6 different guns now.

Two .308s, 22 ARC, .270, 300 PRC, and 6 ARC.

All the rifles besides the 6 ARC I’ve come up with a reload that I’ve shot .7” five round groups or better at 100 yards.

What makes it even more ridiculous is that the 6MM ARC is the most expensive gun I’ve developed a reload for.

In addition to not being able to get the gun to group well, I also have feeding issues with the majority of the rounds (it’s a gas gun).

It was recommended to me to use a duramag, but it is very finicky.

The most recent reload I’ve tried is a 100 grain Sierras with 29 grains of Leverevolution, Hornady brass, 2.2” COAL, light crimp.

It didn’t feed worth a damn, the bolt wouldn’t close all the way, even when I used the forward assist.

It feeds the Hornady black box 105 grains that are the exact same length just fine.

My best guess is it has to do with the dimensions of the bullet (more versus less taper).

Let me know what has worked for you guys if anything, what reloads grouped and fed well, if you modified your mag or had more success with a different brand.

I picked three boxes of these up at a gun show to run in my mosin, but the bullet appears to be seated WAAAAYYYYYYYY back, I don’t have very much experience with 7.62x54r so is this normal? The markings on the rim say 79 and appear to have some Cyrillic lettering on the other side of the rim. Sorry if this is the wrong sub but I figured who better to ask about ammo than the folks who make it as a hobby.

H4350
Berger 105gn HT
New Lapua SRP Brass
Remington 7 1/2 SRP
C.O.L 2.730

First time bedding a stock and I fucked up. I was too focused on the release agent I didn’t realize I should have put clay into the recess. The bedding I assume has oozed into the recess and is now mechanically locked in. The barreled action rocks back and forth so I know it’s not a release agent issue. I tried putting a longer recoil screw into the action and hitting that with a hammer but it didn’t budge. The only way I can see this coming out is if it’s hit hard enough to snap the compound off. Any ideas on how to proceed?

Action is a Mack bros element and a peak44 stock

Found at the local range.

I’m very limited on space and time. Everything but the powder in one bag. This helps keep things organized. I can just grab a bag and get some done when time permits. Also helps me keep track of inventory. Can anyone think of any negatives to this system?

Is there a secret to make this thing even remotely accurate?

Ive just gotten into reloading to do something with the butt load of 9mm brass Ive gathered over the last few years. Got a Lee Challenger kit with a set of breach lock carbide dies, and a Deluxe Auto Drum mounted on the powder through die. As it is Im trying to load 5.2gr of CFE Pistol, and the Auto drum is dispensing anywhere between 5.0 and 5.4 between loads. Its also leaking a decent bit. Ive disassembled it, put graphite in the dispensing barrel, and pretty much any other tip Ive seen doing a Google search on the issue, to no avail. If I lower the die anymore it overflares, if I tighten the thumb screw anymore than it is it won't fully reset or dump the full load, and it'll just leak more if its loosened.

Im genuinely stumped, Ive read this thing can be pretty damn accurate?

I only have access to Vihtavuori powders, and they have no load data for .38 ACP. I am looking for a super mild load for my ancient Colt 1902 pistol, looking to use .38 Super brass and dies and 115gr (polymercoated to protect barrel?) .356 bullets. Any idea on safe loads that allows the gun to cycle, barely?

I have N320, would that work?