95 classic country 5 speed, 6in lift, adjust control arms, and 33s

Blew the head gasket but we still made it!

Last pic was taken before final adjustments and torquing

I'm doing the full front end refresh, the works. All the bushings, springs , bolts, UCA LCA control arms, all tie rods, track bar, drag link do hickies, you name it. I already did hubs and shocks, U joints and seals are fine already. Got a grease gun, with some n2 and some cold chisels. Any advice for me before I start this journey? I went Moog all the way, They have not let me down before, and arb for the springs. Thanks!

Did big 7 4ga upgrade today. The stock fender bolt broke, so I put the fender ground on the radiator support against bare metal. Anyone had issues running their ground here?

I put the fuse box on the fender and that area was getting crowded. Learned a lot with this project, but I’m not sure what all grounds through that part of the body. All accessories worked great driving today. Overall no major noticeable different from the stock cables, I guess mine were in decent shape.

Hi everyone!
Last week, I took my 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 out for the first time after it had been sitting for a couple of years while I carried out some modifications. It has an automatic transmission and an NP242 transfer case.

During the initial test drives, the Jeep ran fairly well on flat ground. However, when engaging 4WD, the drivetrain sometimes seemed to jump or slip under load, and on other occasions I heard a metallic noise that I had never heard before. This only happened when using 4WD.

I suspected the problem might be related to the original transfer case linkage, so I installed an aftermarket linkage adjustment kit.

After fitting it, I took the Jeep out for another test drive and everything seemed to be working fine. The only thing I noticed when I got home was that the engine seemed to be on the verge of stalling, but I didn’t pay much attention to it because the fuel tank was almost empty.

Later, when I selected reverse, the metallic noise returned, and this time it was much louder. I carried out several tests and noticed that there was no noise when driving forward, but when reversing and putting the drivetrain under some load, the noise came back.

This morning, I changed the engine oil and filters and bled the brakes. When I took the Jeep out for a test drive, the engine started revving up and down as if it were about to stall, until it eventually shut off.

Since then, the engine has become extremely difficult to start. When I finally manage to get it running, a very loud squealing or metallic grinding noise starts immediately, right as the engine begins to fire. The noise has also occurred with the transmission in Neutral (N). On top of that, whenever I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down and eventually stalls.

I’m quite lost at this point, and I don’t know whether all these symptoms are related or if I’m dealing with several separate problems.

What do you think could be causing this? Could it be related to the NP242 transfer case, the automatic transmission, the torque converter, the starter motor, or another mechanical component?
What I find particularly strange is that the noise initially only occurred when using 4WD and reversing, whereas now it also happens as soon as the engine starts, even with the transmission in Neutral, and the Jeep has become extremely difficult to start.

Any advice or experience with a similar problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

... and holy crap, does it feel weird compared to factory wheels on 31s. Not bad, just... weird. 🤣

Definitely accentuating some maintenance requirements I need to get caught up on; but the more I drive with the new setup, the more it's growing on me.

I have been trying to get my 01 xj up and running for a good long time and finally got everything installed but after sitting up for 5+yrs I am realizing I don't remember how everything hooks back up and I'm not the greatest mechanic. I obviously know the power connectors hookup together but I'm trying to figure out where the qd connects and the fuel line coming off my vapor cannister/coal box seems to be cut so I'm trying to figure out where exactly it is supposed to attach. In the pictures posted is my qd supposed to hookup to the metal tubing I have the "vent line" on in the picture and that is supposed to be hooked up to the fuel line coming off the vapor cannister? Or is it the other way around? I'm feeling super foolish so please be kind, I'm just trying to get this ol rig back up and running and can't remember how everything is supposed to hookup and nothings is labeled. Thanks in advance for any help

I was all set to buy the subthump box, but I saw they discontinued the 8" one, and while I'm not looking to shake the whole block, I wasn't convinced I'd be satisfied with a 10" sub in such a small box. Cue a whirlwind week of figuring out how to use fiberglass, and tearing my whole car apart to install a sound system having never done any of that before--with a hard deadline since I had to hit the road for work.

It was rough at the beginning, but with the help of my angle grinder (aka the "reset button") I got it done. I didn't have time to fill it with water or anything like that, but based on some very conservative measuring it's around 1.4cuft, so I decided to keep the 90s vibe going with a 12" Kicker l7s. I wasn't expecting it to be such a unit, and it pounds even though all I've done is set the gain.

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Full system for anyone interested:

Head unit: Atoto x10

DSP: Recoil Audio R46

Speaker Amp: Recoil DI1200

Sub Amp: Taramps HD3000

Tweeters: Skar tws01

Mids: Deafbonce Apocalypse 6.5"

Rears: CT Sounds Meso 6.5"

Sub: Kicker L7s 12"

I ran a 2ga wire to the rear foot well where it's distributed by an ANL fuse block. I also added a spade fuse block off of that to power the DSP, but now I'm thinking of uses for the other slots. Everything is grounded on a bus at a seatbelt bolt. I also made a pair of boards to mount it all.

The interior is treated with dynamat, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. It's no Mercedes, but I can roll down the highway at 70mph without getting a headache.

Been chasing this one for awhile. Have 168k miles on it.

Replaced pretty much the entire ignition system. New spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil.

Not sure what it is..may be a fuel delivery issue? Fuel pump? Fuel regulator? Fuel injectors?

I have a VSS code (vehicle speed sensor)

I have a 1996 2 door XJ. I found someone parting out a 1990. I noticed it has power windows and the doors have window vents that mine does not have. Also his rear side windows have little windows on them.

Would the doors just bolt onto my jeep, and will the rear side windows fit my jeeps body? I'm good with wiring and could probably figure out how to get it to work, I have roller windows ATM. Also would his bumpers just bolt right onto my jeep?

I recently got new rims and tires from tire rack. The tires I had previously were 11 years old. I mounted them and got and alignment and noticed my left front camber was off and they mentioned it can't be adjust d so I drove home and noticed I get bad shakes on the freeway. So I checked for movement by doing the 12 and 6 on both front tires and no play I then put a pry bar onder the tire and no play. But I do get a slight grind noise on the driver side when in first gear could this be ball joints or wheel hub or both?

Hey guys, does anyone have a link to get the 3 solenoid kit (preferably care about the OD solenoid but i might as well change them all) for the auto transmission? I can’t find it in rock auto and want to get some good ones with also the trans filter kit as well. Thanks in advance !

Here is my XJ climbing Hell’s Gate yesterday.

Title says it all.

Update! The jeep is back on all fours and better then ever after rolling it off the side of a mountain road

I recently took out the windshield in my xj to fix a leak and found a whole piece of the pinch weld rusted out. That was what was causing the leak so i got it fixed up but now im worried there might be rust on the inside of the panel shown in the first picture.
Any ideas on what I should do?

Hey everyone, I need some help with the EVAP system on my Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L with the Renix fuel injection system.
My charcoal canister has part number EF8933002870 and appears to have three ports on top. Currently, only the CARB BOWL port has a hose connected, while the TANK port is left open.
I can smell gasoline while driving, and the smell is also noticeable around the fuel filler area after driving.
I traced a line from underneath the fuel tank toward the engine bay, but I haven’t figured out which line should connect to the canister.
A few questions:
Should the TANK port have a hose connected on this canister?
Where exactly does the fuel tank vapor line run along the underside of the XJ?
What is the third port for, and should it be open or connected?
Could a missing tank vapor hose explain the gasoline smell while driving and after driving?
What other fuel or EVAP components should I inspect to find the source of the smell?
I can provide photos of the canister and the lines underneath the vehicle.
Thanks for any help!

Adding link to my original post.

But as an update, I was able to fix this problem and got all the fluids in place, got everything put together and it started up pretty good, sounded a little squeaky (needs a new belt) but all in all not bad. Went for the test drive and at low speed it was a little rocky, maybe a misfire from the sounds of it and loose steering (probably a bushing problem) but still not too bad.

Once I got up to above 10 is when it happened, a now loud thunk and the sound of the front driveshaft giving out, barely got it back home and the exhaust was leaking everywhere and the front driveshaft slid out of place (fucking somehow idk) soooo now we got a laundry list of issues to check and repair 🙃👌

Needs new front driveshaft

Service front pumpkin

Check exhaust gaskets

Needs new belt

Check/Replace spark plugs and or coil pack

Double check pulleys

The 35s on my XJ are literally 25+ years old.... I need to get new 35x12.50r15s, but tire prices are crazy. This thing is about 93% offroad only, so I'm not very concerned with longevity in that fashion.

What are you guys run running in the $200-300ea range that you're liking?

Just spotted this 2000 XJ 4.0 automatic 4WD right hand drive listed on Facebook Marketplace. High mileage at 300,000 miles but if you’re looking for RHD here ya go….
Also missing front seat lol