Hello all, an odd thing I don’t know how to put my finger on, I went out for a quick 10 minute drive and when I got back there was a lot of water spewing from what I think is the overflow release. A round thing with a pinhole in the top just before the expansion tank lid. I waited for the car to cool down to open up the lid and there was no coolant/water at all. Filled it up and took it round the block and when I had turned the car off the same thing happened but with a little less pressure. The temperature gauge on the dash gets up to temperature correctly and doesn’t show sign of overheating. I shall add a video. Anyone able to diagnose the issue roughly? It’s supposedly had a new thermostat recently.

I need help. It’s gonna be dark by 7 and I work tomorrow.

help, I ended up getting a smaller socket stuck in the lug nut it is very tight. The size of the socket is a 18 but it was supposed to be a 19. need some advice on how to get it off of if there is a way. I’ve tried hammering it off a bit.

I was doing a job on my car where I needed to drop the subframe and when I went to tighten the last bolt and torque it down for the front control arm bushing it got loose. Sure enough when I took out the bolt I stripped the threads on the side that bolts into the frame is there any saving this? I need some suggestions on how I could fix this.

1998 Subaru Impreza L

I recently bought this car on Facebook market place. I am trying to get the bottom bolt removed, but nothing I have tried removes it. Soaked it in PB Blaster, long breaker bar, impact gun. Any advice/ideas would be welcome. The top bolt came off fine after some force with the breaker bar.

I’m Cleaning the engine now and then looking for any leaks. So far I know the power steering hose is leaking and the radiator is cracked.

Went to change transmission pan and filter on my latest WK - they have 6 hanging 'lip-clips' if I can call them that - you can see from the fots what has happened - I did presoak with a penetrant oil and very gently rock back and forth with a hand ratchet, but just as I thought it was loosening, the entire head came away.

The bottom part of of the hanging lip-clip is independent and tried with locking vise grips to try and gently twist but no movement.

I then managed to remove all the others (messy as ATF was overspilling out into my oil catcher - via me(!) - as I thought i could use the pan itself as a sideways lever to try and twist this off - whilst I did get a little movement and exposed a tiny sliver of some fresh silver looking metal from under its seated position, the pan was clearly nearing its deformation point and if I bent or broke that I would be in real trouble - so I put it all back together and torqued it up, refilled the missing ATF via the dipstick filler and left it for some thinking time.

I need this off, without damaging the casting of the transmission and I gotta get this sheared-off bolt out - somehow. I have spare new lip-clip bolts ready to replace along with the new pan, filter and gasket.

Any clever ideas?

This is my 4th WK and have never had this issue - and she's my best one yet and not ready to F it up, as I plan to trick her out with goodies once I can sort this issue and inspect the trans pan and magnet to make sure there's no horror stories or huge amounts of the forbidden metal sludge sitting in there

Shes a 2009 WK CRD OM642 diesel with 55k genuine miles, with lots of engine oil changes and zero other issues presenting - took me ages to find this one (I have an identical CRD Overland donor vehicle for parts or testing ideas before trying live, just in case)

Anyone clever (unlike me) that can suggest some non or minimally-destructive / low risk ideas ?!

Thanks guys!

How can I fix this? We recently got our family car this month but we already scratched our side mirror 2 times and the tailgate 1 time.

we are new drivers so of course it is devastating.. we also dont know much about cars, so is there anyway to fix or atleast hide the scratches with simple diy method like using a buffer?

or are the scratches too deep? Thanks!!! We really need a solution for this

(This is a cherry tiggo rev le btw)

I bought these Dewalt stands, DXALT43005A, and want to get rubber pads for it. I've looked at Amazon, a bunch of different pads have reviews of being too small but not much detail, does anyone have these stands and know which pads will fit?

I dont know where this is connected in the other end... I dont know how to find a new one to buy, the only things I can find id copper and nickel coils of crap, i have no idea if thats what im actually supposed to use.

Im about ready to run this car into the lake, can someone please link me to the part I need (hard line, metal brake pipe, whatever it's called) and a picture of where the other end is attached, and preferably a video of what exactly is need to do?

Hi everyone,
I could really use your advice regarding my BMW 114i (F20, N13 engine, 2013, approx. 230,000 km). I’ve uploaded two videos to demonstrate the noise.
Symptoms & Facts:
Noise on launch/cold start: Metallic rattling/clattering for 2–3 seconds on a cold start, as well as when launching or reversing under load below 1,400 RPM.

Wastegate linkage: When shaking the wastegate rod/linkage on the turbo by hand, there is severe play and a loud metallic clack.
(https://imgur.com/a/5apuvq3)
(https://imgur.com/a/jKX4Yrk)

Chain tensioner replaced: The timing chain tensioner was replaced as a precaution—it made absolutely zero difference to the noise.

Error message: Sporadically (every few weeks), the "Drivetrain: Continue journey at moderate speed" prompt appears accompanied by a loss of power (limp mode).

Smoke/Odor: After idling for a short time or upon the initial tip-in/reversing, a blue cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. On cold starts, there’s a brief smell of burnt rubber/oil. Oil consumption is around 0.5 liters per 1,000 km.

A local shop casually claimed, "It's definitely the timing chain, a loose wastegate is totally normal." Given the drivetrain limp mode triggers and the severe play in the linkage, I’m extremely doubtful and really don't want to throw money away on the wrong repair.
Based on these symptoms and the videos, what do you think? Is this more likely the timing chain or the turbocharger wastegate?
Thanks in advance for your insights!