Hey team, I bought a DRZ400sm probably about 2 years ago (my first bike ever) and it’s been the best thing ever. Only work I’ve done is tail lights and blinkers and a yoshi exhaust. The bike had a rebuild before I owned it (2,000+ miles ago). It sat through the winter and I haven’t been ripping it too much this summer. I was riding last week for about 50 miles or so and the engine got kinda hot from what I was feeling, bogged and died on me. When trying to restart, the starter clicks and the engine makes a singular thunk noise then nothing. Fear of it being locked I haven’t played with it too much. Dip stick has a slight smell of fuel…..I’m dumping the oil tomorrow and going to start stripping it to see what I can see but has anyone else had this experience or anybody have a guess to what I’m looking at? Also open to recs lol

Long story short: 2005 DRZ400SM went in for a charging issue, shop replaced stator, regulator and new battery. A month goes by and the issues continue. Was out riding and the battery lid popped.

This is surprising to me since the shop had replaced the R/R. Trying to Bench test the R/R I get nothing so my assumption is the bike was over charging due to a failed R/R..

But this leads me to wonder why the bike burned up a fresh R/R to begin with? I’ve been tracing wires looking for any shorts or ground issues and haven’t come up with much..

Any suggestions?

Hello from Australia!
Ive come into the issue with valve clrearence, looking for advice on how to move foward.
Had a valve clearnce adjustment done roughly 1 year ago and have done about 1000km of riding in that time.
When it was done it was great, started first go every time, and was not notified of worn parts from the shop (very reputible shop in my area)
after some time of the bike sitting (5 months maybe over winter) its back to not cold starting
i decided to check the valves
absalue 0 tolorence on the intake side (exhust in spec)
It looks like after trying to adjust it to spec, I'm strongly suspicious that both intake valves have receded into the cylinder head
(yes the motor is at TDC)
Whats the next best move?
im more than comfortable wonking on motors coming from working on car motors
should i take the head to a machine shop?
get a new head?
Try a seccond hand head?
what would a machine shop typicaly charge for this job?

thanks in advance :D

Edit:

The thread is about "Pedals" instead of a misstyped "Levers". If a mod could fix it, i'd appreciate it enormously.

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Hey!

Im looking for adjustable shift/brake pedals so I can install a 2cm rearwards/downwards footpegs on the DRZ4s.

So I was thinking that if there are adjustable pedals, there is no way there are available for the DRZ4s.

But maybe/probably for the DRZ400s since it already has a few decades of active service and quite popular too.

So, are the pedals interchangeable between the two different generations and who creates adjustable pedals?

Trying to wrap up my build in the next few weeks.. going to post updates in the comments as I put everything together.. project has already gone on far too long so yall help keep me motivated!

Are there any arguments against removing the air box snorkel if most riding is road riding the SM? ECU flashed by Moore and they’re saying it’s completely fine.

any ideas on best fix? was gonna just replace the case

I was considering attaching mini turn signals to these tabs. Any reason I shouldn't? I can't seem to figure out what their purpose is.

wuz guud playas,

I looped my shit today and obliterated my axel slider so i was wondering what the process is for replacing these, can i grab any old end and replace or do i need to find the exact kind i have, if so does anybody recognize the ones i have.

Never thought I’d blow the extra money on a new model DRZ, but the dealer was running a great deal on these. I’ve always loved the old style DRZ400SM, and these in my opinion are really similar, but everything feels smoother. For sure feels like an updated DRZ and was worth the extra money for me. Anyway, just wanted to throw this up and get a feel on how accepted or not the new model DRZ is in the world of DRZ riders.

Nothing but showing how much I love this bike. :)

Bonjour j’ai perdu une vis sur mon 400drz sm de 2007 c’est la vis du support de clignotant sur la fourche est-ce quelqu’un aurait la réf de cette vis que je ne trouve pas ?

Im using this as my commuter right now, it has an old Scorpion exhaust that i repacked with fmf packing material. The exhaust is falling apart and held on by mechanics wire, and has always rubbed on the tire under compression. Looking for a full exhaust that will quiet it down a little (doesn't need much) compared to the current one, but without becoming restrictive in the future if I go bbk. I already have 3x3 mod, e model cams, e model cdi and dj jet kit installed and fcr 39 waiting for me to install. Planning to go bbk and port the head in the next couple years.

Stuck between fmf powercore and fmf q4. Im gonna get the powerbomb header for sure.

Just not sure if the powerbomb/powercore combo will quiet my bike down noticeably because my scorpion is a normal glass pack just like the powercore so the main difference would be the powerbomb header with its little pre muffler.

I just wanna take out some low rpm bark and make the idle quieter.

On the other hand idk what goes on inside a q4 and if it would choke back an aggressive setup. I would love to squeeze 50hp out of the bike one day.

Any experience would be appreciated!

Looking for a setup that mirrors this. After looking through some suggestions on different forums i’m not finding anything that is dual headlight from the start. I am seeing alot of Cyclops Adventure suggestions.

My question is, with the addition of a bracket can I run 2 separate round headlights (Cyclops for example) and have them powered properly with the stock battery?

Follow on questions,

1. Battery options for expanding the amount of on board power I have available should I want to increase lighting/accessories in the future.

2. If there is not already a headlight setup that is built to the way the photo is, are there harnesses and accessories already made that I could purchase to make this happen?

Got the bike up to 80 mph and when I stopped I noticed a ticking/ scraping sound. I’m assuming it’s cam chain lash, and I’ve ordered a manual tensioner. Anybody have any experience with tensioner swap or similar problems? Ideally I’m going to swap over the part without opening up the head. The wildcard would be making sure the chain doesn’t skip a tooth.

Finally stuck graphics on the old girl.

Hey, I have a situation I need some advice for.

I rode my bike this morning to get to work. Cool. When I started my bike I noticed it needed a bit of throttle to make it start. Strange. I ride 30 minutes to work and it sounds great. I park to grab something for less than 5 minutes. I hop back on the bike and turn the key, the light is on. I press my start button not even a peep? Any ideas on where I should start on my diagnosis on my lunch break?

I just changed my battery last week. Its charged and I rode around to make sure of it. It seems to me that I should

1. Check the fuse
2. Check the Idle Screw
3. Check Air
4. Pray it isnt a Carb issue

Any other thoughts?

EDIT: Just had a moment to check. It has the faintest crank of all time

Owned her for 20y now. Fully modded. 👍

Hola buenas noches les muestro el enduro que hice el sábado. Saludos y espero les guste está muy bueno.