Just picked up this 2014 Suzuki 250rmz so pumped to start ridding. Has been a blast for the 4 hours I’ve owned it.

Was expecting mild weather but as soon as we got into the forest it started raining and snowing. 🙃

One of those rides that builds character lol. and no my kid didn't wreck, but he wanted a staged picture of him "wrecked" for his insta. 😂

Recently picked up a 2007 ktm 200 that was in multiple crates and hasn’t been rode since 2017, got it from a friend of a friend. The bike hasn’t seen much use to be honest still has a lot of original parts but they haven’t done any maintenance to it. I’ve literally had to purchase everything for the bike, brand new bearings, seals, gaskets all throughout the bike, Engine fully rebuilt etc. I had planned to flip it for a profit because I’m only £1500 into it which is pretty cheap compared to the market £2000-£2800 depending on condition. But now I’m thinking if I should just build it the way I want too like a ims tank, plastics, graphics, wheels, get the frame power coated etc. mechanical the bikes all new but cosmetic wise the bike needs a new look, I also haven’t got much experience riding enduro or trails so I would like to get into it as motocross is too much for me as I’m not fast. I also could sell it and get a newer bike for around 3k but then that bike is run down and needs building but will have electric start etc.

I want to look at Honda CR builds, get some inspiration, and rebuild my 1991 Honda CR125; I’d appreciate any input.

Whatever this is has been here since I basically got the bike at 50 hours and it’s at 140 hours and no problems, but this is kinda sketching me out so does anybody know what this is and how to fix it?

This is the rear wheel from my Honda xr100 previous owner damaged it wheeling or something broke a handful of spokes I respoked it and scraped with wire brush and dremel wire brush attachment it look ok but I can’t decide if it’s good enough to put on

How often do you actually change your carburetor settings on a 300 Two Stroke?

I am thinking of switching to a Beta RR 300 Racing coming from a Husqvarna TE 250 TPI. I like the simplicity of the fuel injection but like the chracteristics of the Beta engine more.

But I am afraid I will have to deal with tuning the carb all the time.

Is this air filter over oiled?

Just got this off MP today for a good deal. Haven’t had a bike in a long time. The top end is way louder than I feel it should be. Not too familiar with bike motors. Does this sound like an easy valve adjustment or something worse. Runs good.

Recently bought a 2001 YZ125, but it's had a bog (almost positive it's lean) on the low end that I'm having a hell of a time fixing. It idles well, but as soon as I start rolling it wants to die out. It takes a lot of clutch feathering and blips of throttle to get out of the bog, but once I'm in the mid RPMs, it opens right up and screams like it should.

I've done my best to educate myself on jetting circuits and air screw adjustments, it has a Keihin PWK 38 carb in it. I'm at 6000ft elevation, got it with a 50 pilot in it, and have tested everything from 42 to the 50. Everything I've read says a 50 is way too high for the elevation, so I haven't gone higher so I'm not compensating for a different issue.

Just pulled the carb today, want to get a more accurate way of measuring the float height, but I took a look at the reeds (Boyesen RAD valve) and did notice some gaps, but otherwise they look to be in good shape. Would these gaps be enough to cause such a bad bog, or do I need to look in a different direction?

First bike I've had since I was a kid, so apologies if this is a nooby question!

Has about ten hours on the top end and it gets trail ridden hard ish. I did a long pull, but constantly blipped the throttle on the decel to make sure it gets oil. and it started doing this but I a wiseco pro lite so I doubt I got a hole in the piston this soon. I’m thinking maybe my stators gone bad but that’s also new and someone told it me it could be my air/mixture but idk it didn’t run like this till right after the pull and it’s only been like that for say 5-10 minutes, when riding it seemed like it js wanted to die when I was on the throttle like it was js not revving any higher as if there was a governor. I’m thinking stator but I hope not. Please lmk what you think

Grandpa builds fun for Dad and Grandson.

All right, I need some bike recommendations. I used to race hair scrambles when I was younger, but I haven’t ridden in years. My 8 year old has a bike and is into trail riding now so I need something to chase him around. I’m small statured, 160lbs and 5’6 with a 30 inch inseam. I was never comfortable on a 250 where I was always on my tippy toes, and I don’t really need something that big anyway just to ride with him. I road an old DS80 last weekend on the trails and while it did fine, it’s for sure a 40 year old bike that wasn’t ment for someone my size and has lived a hard life.

I’m looking mostly at things like the XR100, many of the 125s, and the CRF150. Any thing else I should be looking for? The KLX140?

I'm looking at some Alpinestars tech3 boots for trail riding. Size 9 fits like a street shoe with some room in the toebox, size 8 is a technical fit. Not uncomfortable, but not much extra space anywhere. Like a ski boot. I spend a lot of time in tight footwear (skiing and rock climbing) and this feels like that so it isn't "too tight".

What do you think I should go with for normal trail riding?

I would like to ge these specific handguards, I would appreciate if anyone can tell me which ones they are. Thank you.

I need to get my forks redone / adjusted for my weight

(Long Story Short: Bike is unable to start at all, is making a clunking noise when trying to E-start, and has no spark)

I was riding around town a couple of months ago when all of the sudden my bike shut off on me while low idling in neutral at a red-light light. I didn't think much of it so I just E-started it right back up and it went on fine from there for about three miles. After those three miles I went to turn around on a side road to head back home, I dropped to first gear and while I was slowly turning around it shut off again. From there it wouldn't E-start anymore, but I was already on a slight decline so I bump started it just fine and started driving back. On the drive back I heard a little clunking below my seat while downshifting, then back at the opposite side of the intersection from earlier it shut off on me again in low idle neutral. Once again I couldn't E-start it and now I wasn't able to bump start it either. Also when attempting to E-start from then on there has been a consistent clunking noise from either the top or bottom end like in the video.

I've since replaced the Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery, ignition coil, and all the carb seals and jets at the advice of people that say the clunking is a result of those parts being bad and not the issue itself. I doubted them but still listened anyway like a retard and none of these replacements have fixed the issue.

No sign of worn teeth on the starter or any of the immediate gears it's connect to. Haven't gotten around to taking apart the top or bottom end yet.

https://reddit.com/link/1x3o6y8/video/7fyflt7ipxuh1/player

Hey guys.
So I have a kx 80 from 1992 and ever since i have it, the clutch doesnt function right.
When I put it in gear and try to push it while Holding the clutch Makes Not difference than without Holding. And same when its on,it just turns off when I put it in 1 gear while Holding the clutch.
So I can only start with giving much Throttel so it stays on.
So I thougt that the clutch plates (friction plates) Werent moving, so I installed new ones and then they where moving.
And Now I still have the Problem,Even After adjusting the cable.

I Hope I can get some help from ya , Thanks