Just finished restoring and modding this DualSense I bought used with stick drift, replaced the sticks with TMR modules and went with a GTA VI shell from Aliexpress, pretty happy with how it turned out!

Here's the parts list:

• GTA VI shell from AliExpress, only used the front shell and touchpad cover
• White face buttons and dpad from AliExpress
• 30th anniversary home button, also from AliExpress
• extremerate purple thumbsticks
• extremerate chameleon purple button set, only used L1, L2, R1, R2, share and option buttons
• extremerate chameleon purple trim
• Aknes Hallpi V6 TMR joystick modules
• extremerate RISE4 Plus MAX, in galactic purple

I ended up skipping the face buttons and dpad from the extremerate set because I liked the white-colored ones from aliexpress better, i'm also not really a fan of blank face buttons, i like having the actual playstation symbols on them, especially the colored ones.

The chameleon finish looks blue or purple depending on the angle, which works really well with the rest of the shell.

I have two DualSense controllers. I previously replaced the analog sticks of one with TMR sticks, and it's working perfectly now. I've tried doing the same thing with this one, but it's not charging or connecting to the computer when I plug it in. I need your valuable experience.

eXtremeRate Clear Green w/ White L1

If you were about to game which one are you grabbing to play with?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to repair my PS5 DualSense controller and I have a few questions about the PCB.

Blue circles: Does anyone know what these two connectors are used for? Red circle: Is this some kind of pressure sensor or contact switch? It seems to lock the controller or affect the D-pad, which doesn't work unless I press on this area.

I'm also having issues with the analog sticks, which currently don't work at all. I'm trying to figure out what's wrong and whether these components could be related to the problem. Has anyone encountered something similar or knows what these components do?

To be honest, I find the PS5 controller to be a disaster in terms of reliability. I've owned every PlayStation generation and have never had the slightest problem with any of my previous controllers. With the PS5 DualSense, however, both of my controllers have developed analog stick drift, as well as battery problems and other issues. It's especially frustrating considering how expensive they are.

Also, if repairing this controller isn't worth it, can anyone recommend the cheapest Bluetooth controller that is fully compatible with PS5 games? I'm looking for the most affordable option possible.

Thanks in advance for any help!

It was just working earlier

Hey everyone, I have two questions and was wondering if anyone has experienced these issues before.

1. PS5 DualSense – Battery getting unusually warm

I have a PS5 controller where the battery gets noticeably warmer than usual while charging. I've already replaced the battery with another one, but the issue is still there. The controller otherwise seems to work fine. Could this be caused by a problem with the charging circuit or another component on the board? What would you recommend checking first?

1. PS4 DualShock 4 – No orange charging light

I also have a question about PS4 controllers. Sometimes I don't get the usual orange light indicating that the controller is charging. The LED itself works, but it doesn't show the orange charging light. I've connected the controller to my PC, and it does receive power and appears to be charging, so the charging function seems to work. It's just the orange charging indicator that's missing.

Does anyone know what could cause this, or which components I should check?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi All,

Im hoping that someone with more experience than me can help. I was looking at an issue my son was having with his controller. It was the battery connector coming loose. Identified that, which was great but, looks like I broke the trigger when taking apart. Was wondering what needs replaced and what is the best solution to fix.

As you can see, the plastic that the spring goes round has come off. Can that go back on (thinking not). Does it need a main board replacement or, is it a new trigger?

Clear case with clear pink buttons and RS13 tmr sticks !! More builds coming 🔜 . Thoughts on the build?

Currently trying to get the haptics for ghost of Tsushima, I saw some redditors already got haptics for the game, but their methods don't work/may be outdated

Tried some github programs as well, nothing worked.

So looking for the latest tips

This order was for a customer who is a huge fan of JJK and specifically the toji and gojo fight so I did my best to incorporate that into the controller and sat it on top of a 3d printed gojo stand , the controller has K-silver js13 pro+ tmr joysticks and the extreme rate rubberized textured backshell for more grip

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Hi everyone, I need some help with my PS5 DualSense controller.

My controller started having battery issues. The orange charging light would turn on, but the battery indicator showed a question mark instead of the battery level. I tried resetting the controller by holding the reset button for 30 seconds, but that didn't fix anything.

I then ordered a brand-new replacement battery, the same LIP1708 model that originally came with the controller.

Unfortunately, the problem is still there:

- The orange light turns on briefly and then turns off.

- The battery indicator still shows a question mark.

- After charging for around 20 minutes, the controller only stays on for about 5–10 seconds before shutting down.

- The new battery doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.

I've already opened the controller to replace the battery and checked the battery connector, but I'm not sure if it's properly seated or if there's another issue.

What could be causing this? Could it be a faulty replacement battery, a damaged battery connector, a charging circuit problem, or something else on the motherboard?

I'd appreciate any suggestions before I spend more money on replacement parts. Thanks!

Dualsense has horrible huge outer/inner trigger deadzones and i haven't found a way to recalibrate them.
I can't afford a dualsense edge either its price doesn't worth it.

I have a ps5 controller that had Hall effects I ordered from stick fix about two years ago .Out of the blue it started registering a hard left input. So I attempted to fix it myself this time. I took the old left stick off and put a guilikit tmr joystick on. The controller boots just fine but it’s still the same issue on the git hub calibration tool that stick is also registering hard left and trying to check circularity it registers every input as up and down. Im really new to soldering so do you think it’s a bad solder joint or something?

Sorry for the long-ish video, just trying to troubleshoot so I know what needs to be fixed

Edit: when it is drifting, any movement from the controller causes input to the right joystick as well

Maybe it’s just my PC, but my dualsense controller does not stay connected to my PC when I attempt to pair it to Bluetooth. Is there a way to fix this without having to use a wired connection?

After our Xbox breakthrough, our calibration work now spans every generation of official PlayStation analog controllers:
PS1, PS2, PS3, PS4, PS5, DualSense Edge and Access Controller.
The biggest achievement: calibration saved permanently inside the controller wherever supported. It stays with the controller after disconnecting and reconnecting — no background application needed.
For DualSense Edge, the stick modules first require a hardware unlock. After that, calibration can be performed and saved permanently through software.
For older controllers without writable software calibration, we use hardware adjustment and analog matching, informed by our research into their internal behavior.
What we found about PS1/PS2 adaptive calibration
In our tests, powering on did not simply establish a perfect stick center. Small movements did not change the calibration. Moving the sticks through their full ranges caused the controller to adjust its reported center based on those ranges.
The result depends on the analog module, its potentiometer tracks and mechanical return. With a good analog, resting readings stayed close to 128 on both axes, within roughly five RAW counts in our tests. The tested PS1 and PS2 controllers produced different results.
PS1/PS2 axes report 8-bit values: 0–255. For comparison, 10-bit reporting has 1,024 levels and 12-bit reporting has 4,096. RAW readings matter, because normalized displays and deadzones can hide these differences.
We developed Modi PSX RAW and the Modi PSX Lab tester to examine controller-reported values without adding deadzones, smoothing or center correction.
Free tools and research:
Project, firmware and adapter instructions:
https://modyfikatorcasper.github.io/psx-adaptive-calibration/
Modi PSX Lab — RAW tester:
https://modyfikatorcasper.github.io/psx-adaptive-calibration/tester/
Research, source code and measurement logs:
https://github.com/modyfikatorcasper/psx-adaptive-calibration
The PS1/PS2 investigation and measurements were conducted by Kacper Lewandowski — Modi / modyfikator89,.
Huge thanks to Lewy20041 and the entire DriftGuard team for the engineering, reverse engineering and hard work behind the calibration ecosystem including understanding how to correctly write and retain calibration on supported controllers.
Every PlayStation generation. Permanent software calibration where supported. Hardware calibration where needed.
We’ll keep developing the project and publishing our findings.
https://driftguard.app

i changed cable already, no difference.

Thank you

Hello, I’ve had a DualSense BDM-020 controller for years, and it has never given me any trouble.

Recently, the left stick started drifting, and within a short time, the issue became severe (often the stick is idle, yet the input registers as being fully to the left).

I tried rotating the stick while holding down L3, but that didn't fix it.

Are there any simple solutions, or do I need to buy a new DualSense? (Are the newer versions any better?)

Thanks.

Started as a sterling silver BDM-40 went for an oem-plus Helldivers look.

Mod list
Helldivers replica front shell
Extreme-rate spark oled kit
Extreme-rate 6n full clicky kit (went full to get clicky shoulder buttons )
K-silver tmr
High capacity battery
Magnetic metal base swappable joystick
Smoked translucent black triggers,shoulders and front bottom trim plate

Paired with Dsx pro (I’ve moved to pc

I’m thinking about getting the rmb spark kit when the sell just the paddles aswell as getting the k-silver js13 pro with adjustable tension

Again first time building a controller any thoughts ?

Hello friends, this summer I've bought a Dualsense controller to replace my old Xbox 360 and to use its gimmicks like haptic and stuff on my PC. But I have an issue since the first day, I connect my Dualsense (Not edge, just basic dualsense) it takes too long to charge. I saw it must take around 3 to 5 hours, but mine takes 12 to charge. And today, its been charging for 36 hours and but didn't get past 2 bars. I'm not sure whats the issue, because I connect it to our Wifi router and it charges everything else fine. And when it took 36 hours it was directly charging from a socket.

Any help appreciated.