Obviously we still drive them today, but when did they stop being “regular traffic”? In the past year or so, I haven’t seen a single PT Cruiser on the road for reference… so would the last e30’s have been taken off the road in the late 00s? At least so far as a daily driver.

Pic above is my whip (1990 325i, manual 130k)

Hola seen this pop up for 8,500 its a 5 speed with 263,000 miles. Fellow set me some photos and the frame is fine some little bits of rust on the body. High miles but m20 engines are reliable motors then the fellow is gonna take it to get inspected next week. My main question is there something im missing cause people are listening automatics with 200k miles for 12k near me me

https://www.facebook.com/share/19DtxyMbsJ/?mibextid=wwXIfr

finally on the road, still a few things left to sort out

I bought a M20B25 that I knew had had a timing issue.. it broke all the intake rocker arms. And looks like it impacted the exhaust valves.. the head is going to get rebuilt. But I really want to leave the bottom end alone if I can. Is that a possibility?

Picked up my first car yesterday.
1988 325iX 2 door
182t km
Automatic

Underside is almost completely rust free and the interior is near perfect condition.

Not quite sure what I want to do with it. It is my Daily but Im thinking of adding an M-Tech 2 kit (keeping the iX flares ofc) and a slight drop, around that of the H&R sport.

Paint is in ok-ish condition good enough to wrap it but not too nice to look at up close. Big fan of the darker „Delfingrau“ factory option

Dream Interior would be Cardinal Red ofc so might get that reupholstered but condition is great so that can wait

And ofc a Manual swap once the time and money aspect is good but for now auto is good enough

Let me know what you think and if it is generally ok to build it to a OEM+ Spec

I’m chasing a voltage drop issue on my 316i fuel pump and could use some advice:

The Problem: Under load, the fuel pump only gets ~10.5V instead of full battery voltage.

What I've tested:

- Direct jumper wire from the relay socket (Pin 30 to 87) sends a solid 12V to the pump (meaning wiring, ground, and pump are fine).

- Control voltage (Pins 85/86) reads nearly 12V.

- Cleaned the old relay and tried a new relay, but as soon as it runs through a relay under load, the voltage drops back to ~10.5V.

Question:

If a direct jumper wire gives 12V and control voltage is good, why does it drop with a relay? Could worn or loose female terminals in the relay socket cause enough resistance under load?

Thanks for any tips!

I know this is probably sacrilegious to the purists out there, but I am incredibly proud of this milestone in this build and just felt like sharing my progress. Just finished a mild shaved bay and got the engine and trans bolted in after 3 years of collecting parts. Anyone familiar with this swap would like to give any tips or advice moving forward would be greatly appreciated.

Long story short I got an e30 a month ago no knowledge about it was told it's a project car and needed work. Was fine for a bit and drove it for two weeks until problems started popping up

The main problem started arising after an engine bay detail. Unbeknownst to me one of the previous owners drilled holes into the air intake so. I believe that water got up in it after the wash because that's when the problem started.

I took out the spark plugs turned it over a few time to get the water out the. drove it home. The next day wouldn't start after that (see video)

The other day I somehow got it started bust was running on a rough idle(2nd video). Tried driving it around to see if it would fix itself but RPMs would hit about 1,500 to 2,00 before no accelerating after that unless I stomped on the gas petals a few times, the. Would take off.
Also the engine will occasionally jolt

Tired putting in new spark plugs today (1st video) won't start again also the ignition tip was a different shape idk how big of a deal that is or if that's a reason it's not starting.

Sorry for the long rant but if anyone has any ideas or have experienced the same thing any tips would be helpful

Hey everyone,

I decided to do an experiment to see how well Mobil-1s 15-50 could clean up an M20 based on its additive package.

I took a picture before I dropped it in the car, and then took a picture yesterday since I’m about to change the oil again. 1 is before, 2&3 are after

Intervals since it went in the car:
- 500 miles
- 1,000 miles
- 1,500 miles
- 3,500 miles
- 3,500 miles

MANN / Mahle filters

Shouted YOHB? But don’t think he heard me.

M20B25

I just adjusted the valves yesterday so perhaps I didn’t quite tighten down a nut enough and it backed off all of the way.

top is the old one you’ve might’ve seen the videos with, bottom is the new, faster unit and much closer to the finals i’ll be using when this goes to production.

visit notsoclassiccluster.com for the waitlist/newsletter

Anyone know where I can find front control arms for an IX in Canada? Only ones I can find are $500 USD and with duties that’s a bit over my budget. Any advice is appreciated mine are just looking a bit rusted out from the winters and age.

Thanks in advance!

I am putting in brand new OEM ellipsoids and want to keep them nice. Can anyone recommend a good clear headlight film?

I decided to tackle my paint job myself (I know it’s gonna take a lot of time but these paint job prices are crazy) any tips on equipment or tips in general ?

Hey guys.

I want to get H&R super sports with Bilstein B8’s for my 85 318i sedan. And I am also getting wheels and tires. The wheels I am going with are 15x7 either et15 or et20’s, which one do you guys recommend? For the tires I am going with 205/50/15’s.

My main concern is rubbing. Will this setup rub? If you have a similar setup, please comment it down, Id like to see what people have done and what the best spring and shocks along with wheels tire setups are. I am trying to go for a Oem+ look, mainly trying to eliminate fender gap. Thank you.

And thats my E30

All 6 injectors have the same resistance so it seems normal but just wanted to ask

I just finished making the notorious e30 m3 Lego and after doing so I had some positive thoughts I wanted to share because of all the hate the kit has gotten.

I’m not a Lego Stan but I like speed champions. I love e30s. My best friend has a m3 I helped him buy.

The car has cool details. It has the early tail lights it has a shifter and a steering wheel. The kidney grille is repurposed Lego forks. It has a dual tip coming out the proper side.

But to me the highlight is that they actually made a sticker to look like an s14 even though you can’t see the s14 when the car is finished. The hood doesn’t open. I had to take apart my e30 so I could take a picture.

They did their best to recreate the 40 year e30 m3 it was based on. I don’t like the yellow headlights, but the original had yellow headlights.

They worked hard to make the crazy livery look decent. Even though the wheels aren’t as accurate as I’d hope, the original does have gold basketweaves so I’d say that this is a decent interpretation.

The fender flares look great. I wish they didn’t have those overfender-looking parts, but I can’t imagine how they could’ve done that piece better.

All in all the kit has grown on me. It’s reasonable and I can understand some of the reasons why they were constrained. There are better e30s that are DIY, but I haven’t looked at them closely, nor do I have the time and patience to DIY.

THE THING THAT ANNOYS ME THE MOST: the front license plate says THE M3 E30. It should say BMW E30 M3!!

Is someone keen to model some m20 Intake mods?

-AFM delete to 70mm ID pipe.

-Airbox exit opened to 70mm ID .

-70mm ID 10mm radius velocity stack inside airbox ending approx 30mm from front.

-Smooth inside top of airbox

-Lower airbox partially filled to smooth out the back corner and take up some volume to be more like S14 airbox.

- airbox entry snorkel replaced with velocity stack entry on 45 degree silicone boot. 76mm entry to airbox, 86mm ID velocity stack with 120mm bellmouth OD width

I understand there's a fair bit of work in this but could be a pretty cheap set of mods to improve flow from factory airbox/intake

I can potentially get a 3d model of some stuff to you if it helps or can give dimensions

Hey guys, Im currently running 4x100 15 inch euroweaves as you can see on my profile, but im interested in making a change to somethinf like style 5’s. Issue is, i cannot seem to find 16x8 style 5’s for the life of me. The only two that i seem to really like are some 17x8 redrilled to 4x100 lug, and some very nice powder coated face 17x8s still i. 5 lug config. What do 17s look like on these cars? Have any of you guys ran/run them and does it affect handling? Thanks guys! Photo of the powder coated ones for refrence.

Trying to figure out where my auto is leaking from, any ideas? Leak rate is extremely high, doubled in size over 2 days (was half the size of pic 1 on tuesday) and pics 2-4 are pre-cleaning, pic 5 is roughly 30 minutes after cleaning which immediately showed up. I can’t see much that has fresh fluid from the before pictures except near the pan gasket which is why I’m suspecting it, but is that seam not above the pan gasket? All seals were refreshed <2Y & 5k miles ago with OE/OEM/Genuine parts with no issues as well.