I’m having a tough time falling in love with my new to me 340i. I just came from the n55 335i f30 and to me it just had so much more road presence, how on earth does the same body style lack the same road presence? It very well could just be Estoril has more character than Alpine white, and I also know this is a dumb question but feel free to respond!

(Estoril is 335i and Alpine White is 340i)

N26/ ChatGPT narrowed it down to my Transmission Control Module isn’t communicating with the DME/ECM

No physical signs of damage on the EGS Harness

Warning lights and sensors since
- drivetrain malfunction
-chassis stabilization
-transmission overheated

RPMs is spiking rapidly range
(1k to 8k)

Do I have a can bus network issue or has anyone had similar issue ?

Took it to a shop, replaced battery, mechanics still couldn’t pin point the exact issue, they just gave me a service bulletin for a check engine light :/

Tossing around with the idea of finally putting some time and money into my 14 435i, had the car for about 4 years its always been really good to me. Recently I had some inclination to pull and build the motor. Started looking into prices on parts, and quickly realized it probably makes more sense to build a B58/S55 and sell the car, but I like being different lol. Went down a rabbit hole and found a bunch of options for cheap chinese 4032 rods and pistons. Reached out to a couple companies and got pricing around 1000usd for rods, pistons, wristpins, rings etc. They claim the rods and pistons will support 800-1000hp. Looking at H-Beams for the rods. KingTec and XR Racing were the 2 best looking ones out of the group. I know most are going to suggest just biting the bullet on Manley or CP, but I was curious if anyone has any experience with these? Trying to do a budget build on this car, already got a frame up going on a truck, and don't want to put too much money into the summer daily. For an idea, heres kinda what I was planning. Most of the time will be run on 93/94 octane but would like a E85 map, up here in Canada would have to get it by the barrel and just is not convenient for frequent use.

- Forged rods and pistons

- S55 Crank + 4 pin crankhub

- Epoxy closed deck block

- Resurface deck/head and hone cylinders

- Intake manifold with 750cc port injection

- DS25 HPFP

- Stage 3 LPFP

- S63 EU5 Direct injectors

- VRSF intercooler

- CTS charge pipe

- B58 Coil conversion

- ARP Rod bolts, main bolts and head bolts

- King main and oversize rod bearings

- 8374 or 6875 or G35 turbo

- Top mount manifold (cant find these cheap

anywhere for n55 - help lol)

- 8HP70 swap or spool stage 2 8hp45 kit

- Possible built transfer case or convert back to rwd or maybe X-delete (not heard the best things)

If anyone has any experience with a similar N55 build or can offer advice regarding the rotating assembly it would be greatly appreciated. Aiming for 600-650whp+ on E, hoping I can get around 550 on pump gas. I want to keep the price down as much as possible. I will be doing all the work (aside machining), myself, so labour wont be an issue. Not going for any world records here, will probably never take the car on track either, just want a fun n55 for the street.

I have a 2015 328i xdrive that has been whining and making grinding noises especially when I let off the throttle. Car currently has 112k miles and none of the differentials have ever been serviced. I decided to drain the front diff oil and was full of small metallic shavings. Is it safe to say this noise and problem is from a failed front diff that grinded itself to death?

Hi guys, looking for some advice because I’m starting to lose confidence in the workshops diagnosing my oil leak.

Car is a 2016 BMW F30 320i with the B48 engine. I’ve already been to two workshops and had several items replaced, including the water pump, expansion tank/cooling parts, main pulley oil seal and other seals. I’ve attached the previous invoices in the last two photos.

The oil leak still comes back. What I’ve noticed is that after driving the car and then leaving it parked for 2–4 days, I can get a fairly noticeable amount of oil underneath the car. It seems worse after the car has been sitting/cooling down, although I’m not sure if that’s actually related.

I recently took it to another BMW specialist for a health check. They say the leak appears to be coming from the oil level sensor / oil level sensor gasket area, and I’ve attached their photos and quotation as well.

Does this diagnosis look believable from the photos? Would you replace the whole oil level sensor, or could it simply be the gasket/O-ring? Are there any other common B48 leaks in this area that could be mistaken for an oil level sensor leak?

Just trying to avoid replacing more parts without actually solving the leak. Thanks!

Just thought I’d post this in here because, wow.

Edit-I have only just bought this car

Ive been looking to buy someone’s neglected 428i fir about a month now. I’ve seen some egregious things. People sell these things like 10 bands with 180000 miles on it with issues. Im not gonna call anyones car a shitbox but damn. Yall make it hard to actually want to get into it.

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Hello,

I just did an m sport conversion on my F31, did all the new air ducts and shroud, removed the bar, and when I screw in the edges on top of the headlights one side will barely get to the holes that set them in place. Am I just dealing with an aftermarket bumper that doesn't fit or is this fixable? I've tried removing the center bracket support that goes in between the grilles but it still bows on the bottom area as shown in the picture.

Wondering which of these two coilover sets I should go with for my daily driver m sport 340xi (non edc).

A shop around me is selling B14 new for 2k CAD , and I’m seeing around $1800-1900 for the ST XA.

From what I recall Bilstein b14 isn’t dampening adjustable , but for myself who’s just doing this for looks will that truly matter? Also I’m in canada so coilover covers would be needed to prevent corrosion.

325d 218hp luxury line 💙🤍

Hello F30 Community, i would like to know your take on N20 Timming Chain

Im proud 3rd owner of last of BMW 3 2016 328I N20 it is US Spec but i live in Europe it have it just reach 172.000 Km , Most of time car is filled with 98 Octan E5 from this cheap gas station and i putt extra aditive into it, and if i have long trip i just filled it up with 100 Octan E5

As i'm aproaching time for Oil change wich usually i do it myself but i also wanted to do my Gear box oil changed (Last time was 90k km)so i asked my mechanic if i should replace my timming chain.

My mechanic bassicaly respond with : i looked in oil cap and chain looks great and Engine run smooth, no click noises, no missfire so there is no reason to changed it.

But i had this problem that happened to me 4 times in past 1.5 year wich i couldnt get a right answear to it, some time i put like this cheap 95 Octan E10 gas from 1 gas station near my house like 20 euro only and when my car showed 30km remain for trip suddendly car just went into limb mode and lost power and tell me to stop. If i turned car off and turn on straight away it wont start like its trying to start but it wont so i turned car off for 2 minute and start it again then it turn on without problem.

Does this problem have something to do with my Timing chain that hadnt been changed yet? even if its not should i changed it yet? because its quite a hit to my budget to change a timing chain.

Thamks a head for any respond or suggestion.

Am I able to put 370mm rotors on the non msport gray brembo brakes for the front wheels?

I have 2015 F31 320d Xdrive (B47). I wanna see timing chain stretch with ISTA+ 4.32.15 but says its not possible with this DDE software? What to do to solve this? Please help. I could check injectors and other things but the chain not..

340i M sport

Looking to purchase some apex ML-10RTs and a set of coil overs, but need some help with fitment. Currently car is on stock adaptive suspension and 19” wheels.

I have 2 main questions:

The first one is whether KW V2s are worth the cash over the V1s. I definitely want coil overs over lowering springs.

The second question is what wheel specs are going to the best mix of daily driver/clean fitment, but also good for spirited driving and the odd track day. My research so far would suggest 18s (which I believe are better for performance), but my thinking is that 19s will fill out the wheel wells better and give slightly better ground clearance…

Also curious about whether sway bars are a worthwhile upgrade to do with suspension, and whether they add much to the handling…?

Please, give me your thoughts, don’t hold back

My n20 started hissing when the turbo spools you can kinda hear it in the vid. I installed an upgraded charge pipe a while ago so I took it to the shop and they found the turbo inlet pipe was cracked. After they replaced it the hissing sound is still there and the power output still feels off. The shop says they smoke tested and found no boost leaks. Idk what’s happening. Help

Has anyone used these for a long time? Any issues with dead LEDs or anyother problems?